carnagex_carnagex

<p>The RZ takes, 6x7, 6x6 and 6x4.5 backs. The 6x6 with masks though are hard to find and go for more then double what the 6x7 go for on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mamiya-RZ67-6x6-back-with-viewfinder-mask-/191147732574?pt=US_Film_Backs_Holders&hash=item2c814aee5e&nma=true&si=6yoBg%252BgAYNixZ46iGDhXKRXbPpM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557</p>

<p>I have the (AF confirmation) RZ to Canon, works fine, but shipped broken, after they sent me the wrong adapter (rb), and then my AF chip was busted, and the tripod mount was loose. Nothing a bit of epoxy and a little dremel can't fix. Great design, and If it wasn't for the poor build/quality control, Id recommend it. (if anything pick it up in person to make sure yours isn't screwed up). </p>

<p>The only thing that would help more is if you buy a Bettie Brightscreen or HiLux. (you can find them on ebay, or if you have the cash for a new one you can get on here: http://www.camerascreens.com/mamiya-intenscreens.php )<br>

Here is a review of the HiLux: http://aryanaqajani.com/2012/05/bill-maxwell-hi-lux-brilliant-matte-screen-review/</p>

<p>I use Einsteins, and had the PLM, but no offense, the PLM is a play toy in a studio compared to Broncolors Para (or Briese). Ive used a Para twice, and so wish I had the money to purchase one, its a ton of lighting options in one item. (if you've never used one, check out this video to understand how the Para is different compared to a plain jane umbrella like the PLM). (skip to 5:50 if you have ADHD. And what he doesn't show also is you can collapse the umbrella with a crank giving you a more directed angle of light also.)</p>

<p>If you can get away with a 6x6, the Rollei Hy6 is probably the best medium format camera for Aperture-Priority, and it has AF lenses to boot. (and they still sell them brand new, http://rolleiflex.us/collections/rolleiflex-hy6-and-hy6-mod2-cameras )</p>

<p>You can also fire the shutter if your playing around by switching the collar selector switch (where the shutter button is) to orange, which is the emergency setting allowing you to fire the camera at without any power, you can even shoot with the dark slide in, but you can only shoot at 1/400th of a second. (not sure if this is with all RZ67's, but have it on my Pro IID).</p>

<p>If you scroll down past the Jpeg samples, you can grab the RAW file samples and try them out yourselves. <br>

http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/canon_eos_100d_review/sample_images/</p>

<p>One is they are not eligible for rebates and two the biggie, the body will not qualify for canon warranty work in the US. (so any shorts or malfunctions of the body would be coming out of your pocket).</p>

<p>If you dont have your eye up to the eyepiece when taking pics, then you need to block external light from entering the eye piece and affecting the metering. (which is why Canon includes the eyepiece cover thats attached to your camera strap.<br>

http://www.beyondmegapixels.com/2008/08/discovering-the-eyepiece-cover-html/</p>

<p>The Cheetah is just a USA rebrand of the Godax Wistro light from china. (http://www.lightingrumours.com/godox-witstro-flash-to-be-sold-in-the-usa-by-cheetahstand-3298) They are only selling the 180J, while Godax also made a 360J version. Just do a search for Wistro AD180 or Wistro AD360 for more info. (you can find the Godax brand for $200-300 less on eBay).<br>

Here's a quick review of the light: http://www.lightingrumours.com/godox-witstro-barebulb-flashguns-hands-on-preview-3185</p>

 

<p>They dont have a Mobilite adapter. As its not a standard Bron mount you will have to do a work around to get it to work on the octa. What you can do is mod a hot shoe mount kit and adapt it to work on the octa. (instead of a hot shoe foot use a standard light stand pin and mount your mobilite to it).</p>

<p>(from: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=725198 )<br>

<img src="http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8210/37311357263d60ecfca7o.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="640" /></p>

 

<p>Personally my L lenses are a pain to use without a follow focus. (problem with the L lenses is the focus ring spins all the way around, while say your 35mm f/2 would be easier to use as the focus ring stops from closest to infinity. Much easier to use in my opinion). </p>

<p>One thing if you are using a wider sensitivity, youll want to use the included DPP as Adobe Camera Raw is limited when it comes to extreme UV or IR for white balancing.<br>

Scroll down for info on white balance issues: http://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-photoshop-videos</p>

<p>Varavon makes an add on called the Varavon Pro Finder allowing you shoot video style, but also has a lid that lets you pop up the top to use it as a waist finder with standard DSLRs. <br>

B&H link (just click on the more images to get a quick idea of how it works: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/742483-REG/Varavon_VA17_35000_Pro_Finder_Set_Low_Angle.html<br>

Varavon Product Website: http://www.varavon.com/product/prof_detali01.html</p>

<p>This should help explain 4x5 using a DSLR and what you can get from it. http://www.akelstudio.com/blog/exploring-tilt-and-swing-of-a-view-camera-with-35mm-dslr/</p>

<p>Probably the best review of Soft Focus effects: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jmxphoto/sets/72157604703366099/with/2438004726/<br>

He covers everything from Softars to the 135mm SF.</p>

<p>You can pick up a service manual fro $25 here: http://www.camerabooks.com/Products/Canon-EOS-Elan-IIEEOS-50-Service-Manual---Series-2--Issue-5__URLLEOSELANIIE.aspx <br /> (you may also want to search on ebay, there are always pdf ones for sale. dont forget to search for EOS 50 and EOS 50e as those are the models for the rest of the world)</p>

<p>If its easier for you to see it at 300dpi (without uprezing), then just load this action and run it on your pic. <a href="https://files.me.com/summergirl007/vsfag3">72 to 300 dpi action</a></p>

<p>I have tried a good app, although its not for phones, but its the closest to my Diana +F or my Viv Slim&Wide produces. Its called Toycamera Analogcolor, I have it on my mac and its super simple to use and works amazing. Give it a shot. (I think as Alan has said there is to much snobbery in the toy camera sector, why else is Lomography making so much cash, its those uptight hipsters wannabes. I love my plastic cameras, but software is starting come closer and closer in producing grain, scratches, light leaks and "the look". I say try out some of the apps and see if any work for you). <br>

Toycamera Analogcolor Video:<br>

http://vimeo.com/7801372</p>

<p>Problem with those products is there is no way to control your aperture, as there is no communication from your body to your lens.<br>

(novoflex makes one the does though, but the price is kinda high:http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/197081-REG/Novoflex_BALCAN_AF_Auto_Bellows_for_Canon.html )</p>

<p>(One thing is to make sure they are unable to make copies, maybe a small hole punch on the negative, which still allows them to see they have the original, but are unable to reproduce the work. Maybe also have them sign a release that makes it illegal to reproduce additional copies.)</p>

<p>Ilya E. has it right on with cinema5d.com (you have to remember the 5DII is not like a normal video camcorder, its more for cinema styled shooting. As for what you might need, I dont know what I do without a zoom h4n, follow focus, microlite or z-finder).</p>

<p>You can always try an after market product like the Horsemand LD http://www.komamura.co.jp/e/digital/LD.html or the new Sinar P-SLR http://www.sinar.ch/en/products/cameras/233-sinar-p-slr (or if you have a 4x5 setup you pick up an adapter plate for cheap on ebay).</p>

<p>The hotter the sensor the more noise, 8-9min is still a long time. For long exposures like that you may want to cool down the camera. Or do what astronomers do, buy a Cooled DSLR. (or try using something like the Topaz Denoise 5 to remove noise post)<br>

<img src="http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/1443/cooled.jpg" alt="" width="877" height="600" /></p>

<p>All of Sigma lenses will work (except the DC ones as they are for cropped sensors and the EOS3 is film body = full frame).</p>