happy_chappy

"thanks ci p and great (if anonymous) website you have there. "

DPReview? anonymous?!

Who's going to tell him - lol

Following that link and reading carefully you will see...

"All prices are after Manufactured mail-in rebates where applicable.

"

Well, here in the UK Canon are offering a book full of rebate vouchers. So it MAY be, that the price is $3800 with $2000 dollars worth of vouchers. Go figure, as you say in the States...

Gary

...and of course there is the 85 f1.8 - cracking little lens.

What is an xt though?

Puppy Face,

Another day and something new learnt!

Thanks for clarifying what you said. I see what you meant now.

Thanks

H.C.

Ian,

Thanks for your explanation, it makes perfect sense now. As you say, because of the way the lens extends internally, you don't see it and consequently (well in my case) don't think of it having an effect.

I just tried a couple of exposures with the focussing racked out against my 24-105L and the exposures are reading spot-on. But by the time I get right down to the minimum focus point I had lost three stops of light.

I have learnt something new today and can thank you for it. Cheers!

Take care :-)

Happy Chappy (again!)

Puppy Face

I wasn't using bellows... and you see, the difference between the 85mm and 100mm is 2 stops. TTL metering should have been the same for all lenses.

Hey guys, just had my afternoon spoilt :(

I had a window of oppotunity to have a play about and set up a flower macro

shoot. Kit was the 5D and 100mm USM macro.

I couldn't get the richness of colours I was expecting and tried all ways to

meter, off green leaves, spot, partial, average, evaluative. I go to the point

where I had my gray card out and even my Gossen Lightmeter. I was getting TWO

stops difference between the camera and the lightmeter, even with a gray card.

So, some serious head scratching took place. Exposure compensation? - no.

ISO? no. Custom function? - no. What the....

I fetched my 10D out and did another meter reading (using a 28-105mm, filling

the viewfinder with the gray card) and this coincided with the Gossen.

"*$!%" I thought, the 5D is broken 8O

Then I put the 100mm macro on the 10D and the 28-105 on the 5D. Guess what?

The 10D was out and the 5D spot on :-k

So I have come to the conclusion that the lens is at fault. But how?

I rounded off by doing a test.

Gray card measured reflected light with the lightmeter gave me f5.6'4 @ 1/30s

then ... on the 5D -

50mm mk1 - f5.6 1/30

85mm USM - f5.6 1/30

100mm Macro - f5.6 1/8

24-105L - f5.6 1/30

(all shot within 40 seconds so no variance in lighting conditions).

What do you think could be the problem?

Can any of you guys with the 100mm macro see if it meters any different to

other lenses?

Not so HappyChappy

<i>Which fact about the LCD being unusable in bright light can you refute happy?</i><P>

Take off the shades and all will be revealed! There's certainly nothing wrong with my display.<P>

<i>ask a wedding photographer why he takes a 1000 shots to print maybe 24 or 36?</i><P>

No need to ask, I was a professional wedding photographer for 6 years, trained by one of the best wedding & portrait photographers in the UK. I used to shoot between 7 - 10 rolls of 12 exp 120 film per wedding. Of that there was an element of double shots to guard against people (usually guests) moving/blinking/turning away. Out of those 84 - 120 exposures we would generally offer a proof album containing between 70-90 images. If a photographer needs to shoot 1000 images per wedding they must obviously be poor at their trade. No wedding party wants to be harrassed by a photographer for a hundred images let alone a thousand. If a photographer is shooting 1000 images he can't have the bride/bridegrooms attention and therefore is just 'grabbing' paparazzi style snap-shots. Furthermore, to only offer 24-36 images (dismally low) from a 1000 - if they learnt their trade they would shoot less and keep/sell more.

<P>

Friends of mine who married years ago wanted a photographer but didn't want me to do it as I was a guest for the day. Two professionals turned up and shot roll film (1 x 12exp) and 35mm. Out of the album there were 3 shots that were in focus and marginally acceptable. There rest were poorly exposed (over-exposed flash in bright daylight), poorly posed, out of focus etc. My friends pursued these so-called 'professioanls' through the courts. I 'grabbed' a few shots with an EOS5 85/1.8 and available light and those became the family pictures.

<P>So, moral is, not everyone who claims to be a 'professional' can produce a professional result, but hey, it looks easy doesn't it.

<P>

<i>My 5d just died (must be my bad workmanship too or perhaps I just imagined it)</i><P>

Nope. You just KILLED IT!

<P>

Like I said, perhaps you would be better off with a Fuji P&S with a nice bright tilt and swivel screen. :)

<i>A live preview twist and flip lcd that is visible in bright light on my dslr is my dream , it would make life so much easier for macro , product shots , low angle stuff, photojournalism and so forth....we can but dream.</i>

<P>

Hmmm. You'll find your dream wish on a compact then. Try a Fuji and give Canon a break!

<P>

<i>Why attack me for the equipments shortcomings?</i><P>

Pot calling the kettle black. You're 'attacking' Canon. What is that saying about bad workmen blaming their tools...

<P>

<i>I sure hope there's a few "keepers" in that 5000.</i><P>

LOL!

<P>

<i>can easily take 50 shots of the same item under varied lighting conditions and from diff angles</i> <P>

You've got your technique sorted then...

I've read all the responses above....

and come to the conclusion....

my 10D has some uses...

but...

from experience....

the 5D rocks!

I've lifted the following from a post that has dropped down the

system a bit...

<P>

<i>

There are other issues with using a FF camera and lenses that one

has to face when coming from a cropped sensor. DOF is substantially

less as is reach and the high res senor seems to magnify focus

issues or hiughlight the slightest camera shake. Apart from that ,

one uses the whole image circle of the lens and some nasties that

one wouldnt see with a 1.6 FOV camera are present. I would rather

have a cropped sensor with the resolution , dynamic range and noise

performance of the 5d if it were available.

</i>

I'm puzzled...

<P>

Did I miss something. Did everyone drop their 35mm film cameras in

favour of the APS size IXUS? Do 'professionals' prefer 1.6 FOV

bodies to avoid 'nasties' from showing up in the edges of their

photo's?

<P>

Perhaps I should keep with the 10D and sell my 5D instead...

<i>If I seriously thought that the Sigmas do not measure up - I would replace them with Canon equivalents.</i><P>

I did just that. Won't touch another non-Canon lens every again... I promise

a great shot?

He missed the peoples heads off! :-d

"on a 1.6 crop DSLR (like the 20D that is highly recommended) your 70-200/f2.8 will be an effective 112-320/f2.8. "

Not true.

Everyone seems to forget about perspective control. The 1.6x factor is a crop. But the image taken with a 200mm lense on a 1.6x factor will be slightly different to a 300mm ff camera.

I wondered this when I got my 5D. I had cf cards up to 1gb in size and with the increased file sizes of the 5D I guessed I needed a bigger card - but what speed? I opted for an i-Pro 2gb 15mb/s 100x speed.

Thinking about it this way, the 5D manages 60 jpegs buffered and about 17 RAW. It isn't very often that you are going to fill the buffer with those capacities. So do you need massive speed to save your images? Possibly not. Where I have noticed the difference is in the image review time. The 5D with a 1gb Kingston the image review time is quicker than the 10D. With the 5D and the i-Pro it is practically instantaneous.

Vinay,

I used to own a Sigma 105mm f2.8 Macro. I always felt it over-exposed images on my my 10D. Same thing with the SIgma 17-35mm f2.8.

I have now sold those lenses and now won't use anything but Canon, and 'L' series where I can afford to.

Bjorn,

5D with 100mm f2.8 Macro.

Steve,

Can I have your 300mm f4L ;-)

Giampiero,

Could point about the portrait shots.

I have found monitors with a 1.6 ratio (the 10D is 1.5). But as you have pointed out, a nearer to square format is a compromise between portrait and landscape.

Right, now I can narrow my search down to a standard monitor, which I'm sure will work out a bit cheaper too. Seems to me the maximum size for non-commercial use / non-lottery winners is 17" or 19" at 1280 x 1024. But just watch, there'll be something better a month after I buy one!

I have been considering a Sony X-Black LCD. Any comments anyone?

Gary

This might seem like a dumb question on the face of it but please

read on....

I have a Powershot G3 and an EOS 10D. I have only just noticed that

when viewing images from the G3 in XP's 'View as slide show' I get a

full screen image. The 10D on the other hand has the letterbox

banding.

On closer inspection I have come to realise that the G3 format is

4:3, which is the same as the more common screen resolutions,

640x480, 800x600, 1024x768 etc.

The EOS on the other hand follows the conventional 35mm format of

3:2 which is not directly comparable to 'standard' screen

resolutions.

I have noticed that some laptops are now coming to market with 'odd'

screen resolutions. I have been toying with the idea of upgrading my

15" 1024x768 TFT for a bigger version, or possibly going for a new

laptop.

Can anyone suggest what 'full-screen-full-frame' resolutions to

consider when looking for a replacement monitor so that I can

maximise the screen area for pictures taken with the 10D.

Thanks,

Gary

Don,

I guess you are talking $$ here.

The 28mm will be the better choice for landscapes but a 50mm will be usefull for other day to day stuff. Here goes.. spend $70 on a Canon EF 1.8 mkII and have $130 sitting in your pocket. Save some more and go buy a 24mm or 28mm prime when you have some more money (what about birthdays :-) )

In the meantime, you will have time to play with the 50mm but haven't blown all your cash in the one day!

Stefano,

I bought my 10D from Warehouse Express and got a 256mb Dane-Elec CF card in the deal. My opinion is it is a bit slow. I bought a 256mb card from www.dabs.com from their 'value' range which was reasonably cheap, supposedly 20x and I will say it is very fast indeed.

I couldn't tell what brand the dabs card is, but it has an orange coloured label, has a picture of a fish on it and 'TwinMOS' written on it too. Made in Taiwan.

Good luck.

David,

Congratulations on your wise choice of camera.

Latitude. Expose as you would slide. You have five stops of latitude. When you look at the histogram you will see it is broken into five segments, each of which is a stop (I didn't see it until it was pointed out).

Tip - set your camera up to review with exposure details/histogram (INFO). Just glance at your image for 'hot-spots' (the flashing white bits in the image) and 'read' the histogram. Stay away from the right hand edge which signifies blown highlights.

Be snappy - Be happy!