jorge

January 10, 2019

I was imagining a giant changing bag or tent that I will unload my 5x7 holders and put the B/W film in a drum. Or how about having a really big bag/tent that will let me use the hard rubber tanks with DEV/FIX and STOP chemicals. It would become very noxious inside but only my hands would be exposed (rubber gloves)! It would be a tragedy if the open tanks were tipped over or mixed up by not being able to see what was going on inside. Well I could light the inside with a safelight and have video camera set inside in an underwater case feeding output to my 15" Macbook Pro! Where this a will there is a way!

Or, I could just bring back my old darkroom that is now just another part of the workshop with a MIG welder and Plasma cutter where the enlargers used to be. I had a 4x5 enlarger that I traded for processing (E6), and giant 8x10 enlarger that went out in the street for the local recyclers, although I did salvage the 240mm enlarging lens and sold it on Ebay for a good price.

Jobo used to have a tank & reel for 6 or 8 4x5 sheets. I still have one on my darkroom, now virtually abandoned. I now load the reels (mainly 35mm but the occasional 120 too) in a bag and process in the kitchen. Darkroom is cluttered with the missus junk.

I miss film and darkroom very much; used to process my own C-41 'cuz the local labs were pigs, but now I cannot get or justify doing that so the Jobo processor is just gathering dust. I can still shoot and process TX400 and have enough HC-110 to last me a few years. However, while film cameras and darkroom gear are now dirt cheap, film and processing materials are expensive. I have to get mine from Amazon as the nearest dealer who carries film is 300 km away.

November 28, 2018

Hello folks! Although a member of PN since 1999 I've neglected the fora for many years. I have a couple of questions that I'd be grateful to get feedback on.

In 1994 I got a Minolta Dimage 5400 scanner (v1) for my 35mm film and it gave me the best scans I've ever seen, however it proved to be an extremely quirky model, despite resolving even ISO 100 film grain. It refused to expel the film holder around 2010 and I forcefully pulled it, recovering my negatives but losing the scanner. Since Minolta had already folded by then, I kept it stored in hope of a miracle. Besides, I had migrated to digital more or less fully by then.

Now, I lost my scan archive to a disk crash that wasn't backed (mirrored) up (I had the film, right? So...). Got me a Plustek 8100 a couple of months ago but even with the claimed 7200 resolution it pales to the 5400. At 3600 it's all right save for the limited D of 3.8(?) compared to the Minolta 4.8. It forces me to some pirouettes of multiple exposures with many contrasty negatives.

Finally, the questions:

1. Is there any repair shop that can handle the Minolta 5400?

2. Can VueScan acquire from it in case I don't get drivers for Windows 10?

Thanks for any feedback. It's really important for me to recover at least some 300-odd frames.

November 28, 2018

My own choices?
The only extremely fast glass I own are Sigma 24/1.8 & Pentax 50/1.4, both disappointing, but good enough for desperate low light, high ISO work with pixel binning & busy IBIS.
I noticed that higher ISO gets me nowhere on it's own. - The old Monochrom kind of works at ISO 5K, but combined with f2 glass I still face a lot of too dark situations, where sharpness suffers from not really handholdable shutter speeds. I might end trying Canon's 85/1.4 & 35/2 IS lenses for even higher ISO, more lens speed and IS at once. - Just replacing either a lens, for just one f-stop (or maybe 1.5 stops) or getting maybe 2 stops out of a more recent (digital) camera is usually not enough; at least it doesn't really justify huge investments, by being a real game changer.

Some of the sharpest lenses I own are Voigländers and now that I'm shooting film again, trying not to forget the heroic times, the sharpest I have are a Nikkor AI-S 50/1.4 which I use on a Nikon FM2n from 1992 and a Voigländer Nokton 50/1,5 that goes on a Leica M2. I'm no longer printing wet, although I'm set up for B&W and color in any format up to 4x5". For starters, I could never get the purity of color scanning and photoshop give me and my film scanner resolves Tri-X grain perfectly. OTOH, I've been putting my M2 with Summicron 50/2 and Tri-X vs my Fuji X-Pro2 with a Leica Summicron 35/2 (equivalent to the former) shooting JPG in Acros film emulation and fixed ISO 400 and there's simply no contest. Film is exciting, romantic, retro, sharpens your dulled skills, but "D" takes the edge, not only in quality but in convenience. After developing the roll, drying it in sanitized closet in my darkroom, sleeving, proof-scanning, and then spotting, I end investing more time per frame in the computer than I did in the darkroom. Emotionally rewarding but not as a regular hobby.

October 11, 2018

I use the Epson scanner software that came with my V600. I've never used Vuescan or Silverfast but see them as post processing programs that also scan. Why pay for and learn another post processing software? I scan flat using the Epsonscan software and do all my processing in post. Saves a lot of aggravation.

I have a V750 and am familiar with the Epson Scan utility, which is quite good, except that it cannot do multiple scans. OTOH, I hate Silverfast interface and commercial policies (I refuse to pay them $70 for an upgrade from 6.6 to 8) and having purchased the Pro version of Vuescan ages ago, that's what I use. Learning curve is not really intuitive but it's not rocket science either. I you could learn Photoshop, it's a piece of cake. BTW, I've managed multiple scan passes with Epson Scan just by doing three different scans with different exposure settings and then blend in Photoshop.

March 2, 2016

Greg, huge thanks for your post. I installed W10 last night only to find a lot of peripherals gone. Followed your recipe and now my (aging) monitor is true to printer colors and color targets. Now, if you or somebody can tell me how to configure a R128-G128-B128 desktop? Windows offers a color swatch but cannot find which one is the true middle gray.

February 11, 2016

Hans, the Leica IIIf is a superb shooter and should be easy to CLA and fit new curtains for not an inordinate amount. I have one like yours but older (Nr. 48****) and with the self timer; also cleaner. It belonged to my father who died at 91 in 1995. I'd try to find me a used screw mount Voigtländer Color-Skopar 35/2.5 with the accessory brightline finder and put it to work. The Color-Skopar is a modern lens with excellent image quality and goes on the IIIf like it was born there. I still shoot mine with modern Voigtländer lenses.

February 10, 2016

Charles, Ron,

The 4800 resetter does NOT work on the 3800/3880 maint. carts. There's a different resetter for those (also from inksupply or others --check ebay for prices. Caveat, on the 3800/3880 you need to have at least one extra -new or resetted- cartridge to flush the internal memory of the printer. Otherwise, even if the cartridge is reset, the machine will recognize it and won't budge from the percentage it remembers.

February 10, 2016

Linda,

I may be biased but if I had to choose only one camera among the 30-odd I own (of which only seven are digital but span from full frame DSLR to shirt pocket P&S) the one I'd keep is the LX100. Let me elaborate a bit; I've been shooting since age 11 when I got my first camera, a Kodak Six-20 and I've used most averything from View cameras, medium format, 35mm SLRs, rangefinders & PS, plus -as mentioned- a decent array of digitals.

Also, since the Lumix LX3 hit the streets, I've been using them; LX3, 5, 7 and now the LX100. The camera is near perfect: manual contros where they should be, nimble and intuitive operation plus a truckload of automation that will get you through most any situation you might normally encounter, unless you need a fisheye ore are into sports reportage of wildlife photography.

For its versatility I'd like to invite you to visit my LX100 album in my gallery here or the one I have in Facebook (look me up with my name, it's open). The AF is fast and accurate but you also have one of the best electronic rangefinders you'll find if you prefer to focus by hand. The EVF is brilliant, cistomizable and it's intergrated, like it should. There's also an eyepiece adjustment that should accomodate most people's needs. The info displeyed can be customized in a series of ways that much more expensive cameras cannot.

As for image quality, I've printed 17x11" from it that cannot be distinguished from my Nikon D700 or Fujifilm X system cameras.

I recommend it heartily and, in any case, if you live in the USA, you can return it if you find it doesn't suit you.

One last pair of suggestions:

a) Get the automatic lens cover. The original Panasonic is pricey but you can get a JJC brand one at Amazon at a fraction the price.

b) If you like to shoot macro, get a set of close-up lenses. They are economic and work perfectly.

and

c) Probably the most important, buy the book by Alex White about the camera. It beats the cryptic manual tenfold. It's only about $10 en electronic form:

http://whiteknightpress.com/photographers-guide-to-the-panasonic-lumix-lx100/<div></div>

September 9, 2015

Sanford, I hope this is not a dead thread but the truth is I don't visit PN much nowadays. I had an X-E1 which I found was quite erratic in focus in some situations. Setting the focus area to the largest size ameliorated the problem --somewhat. Some months ago I traded it towards an X-E2 and the problem is completely gone. I'm waiting for a 27/2.8 at the super reduced price to arrive tomorrow, so I don't yet have any experience with this lens, my experience applies exclusively to the kit 18~55/2.8-4 zoom, but for what I've heard from other owners of the pancake 27, it blazes! Keep in mind that the X-E2 has a superior hybrid focus system using contrast and phase detection, while the X-E1 relies solely on contrast. As soon as the new body was affixed to the 18~55 the hunting was gone, so the culprit was the body, not the lens. Also, the phase detection system is a feature of the new sensor, so no FW update is gonna correct that on the X-E1. With the ultra low prices of used X-E2's you might want to consider a trade up. I ended paying less then $150 for the upgrade. The body is very improved in a lot of ways, not only focusing.

February 21, 2015

In a word, no.

The diameters are different. I had to get the OEM $40 automatic lens cap, even tho I still have a new JJC LX7 cap. You wont be able to attach your Kiwi tube or your 37mm filters, close-up or conversion lenses. Panasonic in their omnipresent greed, made sure owners couldn't carry over any accessories from the LX7.

:/

November 19, 2011

Since they focus on the bottom side, it shouldn't matter.

September 28, 2009

Tri-X, Leica MP, Summicron 50/2. Leicas are excellent to catch fast moving kids.

September 28, 2009

Serdar, if you get the hang of the M7, you'll be able to shoot faster with it than with the D3. In general, I find the M Leicas the best street cameras. I foresee a M9 in your future. ;-)

Tri-X, Leica MP, Summicron 50/2.

September 23, 2009

Serdar, if you can find one, get a Minolta DSE5400 scanner. It's the sharpest 35mm scanner ever, with debatable exception of a drum scanner. Unfortunately they are orphaned as Minolta folded and Sony -who bought them out- isn't supporting the scanner any more. So far, the drivers work with XP, Vista and 7 but who knows what the future will bring. Vuescan supports it fine ina any of the aforementioned OS's. Otherwise, the Nikon 5000 is the best option, albeit expensive.

PS, get a Leica M or Nikon FM2 and experience the true film experience. :_)

September 23, 2009

Late into this thread... sorry. I'm astounded no one has suggested one of the big finder Retinas (IIc, IIIc, IIIC). I've had for several years (over a dozen, I'm sure) a Retina IIIc with Xenon 50/2.0 that used to belong to my father-in-law. It's a superb -pocketable- street shooter. The Xenon is every mm as good as a late non-asph. Summicron (yes, I know, I own one). The controls on the Retinas require a little using but they are quite logical and although the film transport requires some pampering, you can find a wealth of cheap parts should you, for example, strip the advance rack, which I once did.

Furthermore, they have a quite decent rangefinder patch, which almost none of the above mentioned cameras have. Canonets, Yashicas and Olympus XA are equally bad in this respect. The Retinas, while not in the Leica M, or even Bessa R league, are a way above the others. Exception would probably be one of the latter FEDs.

I just checked on -bay and found several going for as low as US$100, all the way to $500 for the more sought out models, like the IIIC (big C). Don't know about the rest but I frequently pocket my IIIc wich I keep loaded with Tri-X and take to the streets. BTW, even the light meter works fine.

September 22, 2009

»Are the fider shoes plastic or metal on Voigtlanders?« 21mm, plastic, junky, easily broken (did that); 75mm, metal (and a truly excellent finder, BTW). The 40mm, I don't know but you may check at Cameraquest. The regular 50mm finder is excellent as well. Very good high eye-point view and great brilliant lines. I use it with my IIIf. Hope it helps.

September 9, 2009

Alex, Asim specified »two brand new Leica MP's in front of you (with box and everything)«; not vintage. As mentioned by Stewart, easiest way would be shiny vs. matte, or just read the box. I wasn't aware you could order "Millenium" MP's an black chrome, but then I guess the a la carte program allows every possible whim.

September 9, 2009

How many megapixels did you say? ;-) Now, if <a href="http://www.dpreview.com/news/9905/99051401kodakintel35mm.asp">this</a> would only ever come true, you probably wouldn't even need the Leicavit... :-)

July 30, 2009

D700. Tokina ATX Pro 28~80 @ 80mm f/2.8, 1/1000 sec. ISO 400.

July 30, 2009

With my current camera (olympus e-510), i cannot venture into higher ISOs as noise becomes a big problem

</blockquote>

If price is not an issue, the D700 has a much better performance at high ISO settings than the D300. The D700 is very clean up to 6400 ISO and even useable at 12800 (H1).

The D700 viewfinder is also a big (huge?) plus over the D300. The FX format has already been mentioned.

July 30, 2009

I can go for days with just a 50mm. Generally, that lands me more keepers than lugging around a ton of gear and spend more time zooming or changing lenses than looking out for photos. My favorite setup used to be a Leica M plus a 50 or 35 Summicron. Now that I've been dragging my feet about entering the darkroom two nights a week, and thus shooting mainly digital, my D700 is fitted with a "Made in China" Nikkor 50/1.8 D most of the time. Certainly, I've got zooms and other focal lengths, but most of the good images come from adapting to a single setup and using it to its full potential.

D700, Nikkor 50/1.8 D

July 30, 2009

I've owned -and still do, most of them- no less than 12 Nikon bodies and some two dozen lenses. Until fifteen years ago, purely mechanical stuff; from then on, a mixture of AF and AiS lenses and, of course, electronic bodies. Recently I acquired a D200 and a D700. Everyone has behaved flawlessly. Once I had to service an F90X thanks to a clumsy friend who pushed its shutter towards the lens while changing film. The change of curtains in Mexico City was more or less equivalent to the cost of ten rolls of film. I've owned many other cameras of different brands; seldom as sturdy as the Nikons, even the cheap models, i.e. a N50 that I used for underwater photo inside an Ikelite housing and that is still going strong after 15 years of abuse. Oddly, in the meantime I've drowned two Nikonos and a diigital Pentax. :-(

July 28, 2009

Regarding the use of a 2x with a 50/1.8, you will be better off getting a cheap 100/2.8. It will give you better image quality at more or less the same price.

July 26, 2009

Unless you're willing to cough up much -way much- more than the lens price, in a word, no. You could probably manage with bubble levels, square rulers and strings -but then, wouldn't you learn more about your lens by just using it in every day situations or finding some professional tests in the i-net?

July 26, 2009

Andy,

Both Luis and David responses are true. Ask your "FrIEND" to field the cost of repair or in case asking your friend equals "ask her to...", then of course Luis' response doesn't apply.

Since you will probably end up fielding the repair in any case, I'd start bu applying black paint or magic-marker ink to the damage. That will most certainly remedy any possibility of flaring, which is the likely consequence of the scratches and pits you describe.

If you notice that even with that the image quality degraded (not likely unless the element substained massive damage) then your only option is Nikon Service. They absolutely don't sell parts for self repair jobs. Forget about getting a front element unless from a lens that was run over by a train and -somehow- the front glass survived.

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Posts posted by jorge