leo_cavanha
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Posts posted by leo_cavanha
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Hello ALL
I have a FA Nikon for my all-around use, and I'm planning to bring her
underwater, now that I'm starting to dive. So far I didn't find any
underwater housings for her, only for some newer models. It shoud
resist to deeper waters (20-30m minimum) and preferably allow the use
of flash.
thanks for your help!!
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don´t you EVER try to open the box. Once the box is opened, the lens may be prone to FLARE and JAMMING in the body, the mirror can SLAP making an awful noise when you press that ugly button, and your body may scratch and get full of fingerprints!!! DONT YOU OPEN THAT BOX!!!!!
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Hi Richard!
I'm also a big fan of aircraft photography, but I bought a 250CF instead of a 350 for some reasons like price, avaliability in Brazil and flexibility. It is short for aircraft photography (I used to use a 300mm lens on 35mm format), but I don't know which option is best in case I use it handheld - to get a 1.4 converter or a pair of scissors. I haven't had the opportunity to take pictures of aircraft with the lens yet, and I wanted very much to see your results!
I don't know what you guys think, but I can't find a tripod a good idea to take pictures of aircraft unless you're alone near the runway and you know what the aircraft is doing. In a crowded airshow trying to catch some aerobatics I really don't know what to use (I tried it once and I wasn't successful, but my tripod head was far from adequated). What you guys think?
By the way, Richard, this is the way I always hold the camera since it's much easier to use the lens this way.
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Linda, first of all wellcome to the club. As Dave said, it's important to have matching inserts, but don't worry too much about the darkslides. They're easy to lose - I myself had to buy a new one for a back that I got.
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Jay, thanks! The kiev you mentioned is just like the hassy nc-2? Isn't it heavy?
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Hello everyone.
I am looking for a lightweight (and cheap) finder to take action
shots with my 250mm lens.
As far as I know, there are two options: the sports finder, which
attaches to the accessory rail, and the frame finder, to be coupled
in the lens shade.
Does anyone have experience with those? How to use the sports
finder? Keep the camera horizontal and use the left eye? Its
handling sounds a little strange to me. From the other side, the
frame finder is useless in case I wanted to use a 250mm + converter
combination - using the sports finder would be only a matter of
changing the screen.
I appreciate your oppinions very much (please, I'm sure I don't want
to buy a prism finder).
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thomas, the problem shouldn't be in the body. The body doesn't mind if your roll is in position number 1, 2, 3...
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Dick, could you tell me your experience with 250/2x? I have just bought a 250 CF thinking about buying a 2x later on. thanks
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Jason, wonderful photo! nice work you made... it's a pity what happened to the camera... by the way, i saw that this newer camera has shoes to stand in a flat surface... it's a nice feature that all the els have, but my old cm has not...
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Returning to this subject... I have just bought a 250mm CF and I realized that maybe this is the longest lens I would take anywhere to use handheld with a 'blad. Most guys complain about the sharpness of the sonnar CF (I haven't shoot a single roll to prove if it is true or not), and I'd expect to lose some more sharpness with a teleconverter. What you guys think about the quality of the Sonnar CF? Fact or myth?
I have read very much about the 180 qualities and sharpness, maybe one day I could afford to have a 40/80/180/350mm set? (ok, first of all i must buy one or two good tripods, a good lightmeter, a gliding mirror body... and a 4x5)...
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I always try to keep the lens with a filter mounted. If I think that I can have a very good picture, I use to remove it and mount it again after I have the picture.
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Man, at first i found it strange, but this coupling is hadnful once you get used to it... it is much more convenient once you make a metering and dont want to change the exposure. You set the EV value and then you only worry about the composition... of course, it's a matter of taste.
I have just bought a CF lens. I didnt have time to play with it yet, but a couple-decouple button ratter than a press-to-couple would seem more convenient to me, maybe...
best regards
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Jason, the fact that the camera was mounted in the (maybe heavy) tripod and that the lens hit the ground first (check for loose elements in the lens! shake it!) may explain how it did happen. If the mounts are machined from the body is OK for a precision point of view, but I didn't like to hear that they are made from aluminium...
Other day I was in a cave (unfortunately I got no pictures that day - the film had stuck in the back! i was very stupid) and the camera almost felt from a height of 50 or more meters... fortunately it made only a scratch in the (black) body. I wonder if it could be repaired - if that scratch makes me feel bad, imagine how I would stay if I had lost the camera... my condolences!
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Easy, Jay. I have been shooting since when I was a child and i have been using dozens of different equipment. Since I rarely use flash - I don't actually have one - "X" and "M" are not day-by-day labels to me also - and since I don't use that handle in my 80mm C lens because the self-timer is not working properly...
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Nikola, it sounds strange to me since i have a late-70s darkslide wich has a curved portion in the middle of the handle that matches the opening handle if the curled part is pointing towards the back. If it is pointed toward the lens, it matches nothing... misterious to me!
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hello,
I have recently acquired a 500CM. I used to shoot with 35mm before and I have already shot with Mamya gear, but a long time ago. Personally, I stay with Hassy, but then you will be entering another world - as the guys said, the lenses are very expensive - expect to pay up to US$1000 or so (or even more!) on a good used lens. That's a considerable drawback, but handling a Hassel is a different concept of photography - and the results are marvelous.
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Thanks about the batteries, guys, but right now I have two ELMs in sight: that one, before 74 (still labeled EL), was revised in 2000. Sells for about US$230. The other one, year 81, sells for US$ 330. Both are cosmetically in mint condition, but I can only test the older one before buying it. If it were you, which one you would buy?
thanks again!
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Hey guys, it´s me again.
I have been offered a 500 EL that actually is a 500 EL/M (it has
interchangeable screens and its serial number is OK acording to
Wildi´s reference) for very good price (about US$ 230) and that is
aparently like new (I have the chance to test it this the weekend).
The point is that my priority is to get a good photometer and one or
two lenses, but is it worth to have such a camera? It see that could
be useful to me only in action shots (maybe 40% of my photos) and as
a spare body.
thanks for your advice!
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Thanks very much for your help, guys!
I have already found an excelent 2x mutar for good price, and I think that I am staying with the 250mm choice. Unfortunately, Kornelius, your pack is not an option for me! Unfortunately, also, the 2000 series cameras are very difficult to find in Brazil. I heard that there are some brighter screens to use in place of the original ones, shouldn´t they relieve the problem (with a 500 ELM which has interchangeable screens - is this the only difference between the 500 EL and elm?) or is vignetting only associated with the mirror size?
I am finding it very difficult to buy a 250 CF lens - i havent found no one avaliable in Brazil and the import taxes are 60% over the value of a new one. I´m wondering what to do...!
Thanks very much again, guys!
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dear friends,
I had to come back with a new question since I have had some
opportunites to buy tele lenses for my 500C/M and I didn´t know what
to do. Okay, I know that Wildy´s book is a handfull reference, but I
am waiting for my copy and it is always nice to listen to the day-by-
day user´s opinion.
Okay, the point is that: I like to take both colour and BW photos and
both handheld and tripoded - these not so frequently. I wanted to
have a longer telephoto option also - something like a 500mm
or so.
Since I can´t afford to spend huge money on lenses - and I still want
to buy a 50mm and maybe a prism - I am considering to buy a
tele+converter option since a short tele + 500mm is obviously not an
option for me.
I am considering to buy a 250 or 350mm CF lens (not-apo), since I
think that an older C T* lens will not be so easy to repair in the
years to come, in conjunction with a teleconverter - my options are a
2x converter with a Sonnar lens a 1,4x (maybe with a cheaper 2x mutar
later on to have a 700mm f11 lens, which should be useful with the
80mm as well) with the Tessar lens. So, I have plenty of options,
since I could buy either the old or new (2xe) mutar converters. So,
which shoulb be the best combination for a 500mm lens:
- C T* Sonnar + 2x old mutar: f11
- CF Sonnar + 2x old mutar: f11
- CF Sonnar + 2xe: f11
- CF Tessar + 1,4x: f8 and a somewhat more difficult handling?
I understand that, with the Sonnar, I will have a very useful 250mm
lens, but the 350mm could be useful as well, wouldn´t it?
thanks for your help!
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Guys! Thanks Very much for your attention! I think that the biggest lesson i've lerned is to not press the g* d* shutter while changing the lenses!!! Thanks for the advises, I think I will be able to play with my new toy in 2-3 weeks. Only one thing that I perhaps missed: which should be the best lenses series (CF/FE/etc) in terms of price, coating and maintention - forget about optical quality, It's Carl Zeis (yes, I love'em both in Leicas and on Linhoff Technicas, and now on Hassels). Of course, I'm considering only to buy used items.
Thanks very much, again!
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Hello,
I am new in this forum as well as to MF. I have just bought from my
father an Hasselblad 500CM - I still don't have the camera in my
hands, but it is an 1978-9 (?) with a 80mm lens (probably compour?)
and macro stuff. The camera should be in new state, since it was
bought new in 79 and it has been very rarely used since then (no
more than 20 films, surely). My questions are:
1) If the equipment seems to be ok for lens, light leaks, dyaphragm,
synchro (what else?), is it still recommended to make a revision in
the camera?
2) Compatibility - what kind of newer generation accessories
(lenses, finders, digital backs, etc) for the 500 series I can buy
and use in the 500CM?
3) My favorite lenses to take pictures in airshows with 35mm cameras
are 275 / 400 mm. Which equipment (lens+finder) is good to be used
with a MF? I have no experience with that stuff.
thanks very much,
Leo
Underwater Housing for the FA
in Accessories
Posted
Thanks, guys, sorry for the late answer but I've been very busy at work. I will probably go with the Nikonos, when I have the opportunity. My first idea was a housing for the Hasselblad, but wow thats rare and expensive.
in a couple of months i will post some photos from underwater!