guoming_shou2

<p>Leica's own offer does not work with the 100mm APO. I'm mounting the lens on EOS. So any flat type of tele converter shall work with the 100mm: Kenko, Sigma, Tamron. Any experience?<br>

And how about such 1.4X with 180/2? Certainly Leica's 1.4X APO should be the best. But the cost is high and I may not use it much (I got 2X already). I saw a post saying Kenko 1.4X works well with 180/2. Any experience?</p>

<p>Wow, so many helpers. Thanks, folks!</p>

<p>I also shoot large format. That is why I knew the right place to ask. :)</p>

<p>Though the work I'm doing is on a 35mm lens, I think large format people may have better ideas.<br>

I've just filed down the rear end of a 28mm Zeiss lens, since the mirror of my Canon DSLR hits it. Now the way of the mirror is cleared, but the rear end reflects lots of light onto the image sensor -- I only had a black marker at hand which is quite glossy. So, I need to paint it black, completely black. Can somebody recommend a good matt black paint?<br>

If such a paint is not available, maybe I can somehow smoke it?<br>

Best,</p>

<p>Adorama has it now.</p>

<p>Thanks a lot! I think I found the answer.</p>

<p>Greg,<br>

I'm using M42, Contax, and Leica R. I do not want to carry three bodies.</p>

<p>I'm adapting various brand lenses onto EOS, and do long exposures. I'd like to have a film SLR in addition to my DSLR. So one that does not rely on battery power sounds the right choice. But, has Canon ever made one? If not, how's 1n's battery consumption rate? Is it good for a dozen 1 hour exposures? Many thanks!</p>

<p>I looked at this lens and noticed words like "MK II". I guess this means a newer version, but could not find any information on how to tell if a 50L is of the first version of of the MKII version. Any help?</p>

<p>I have been wondering if Leica will make a new 75mm f/1.4. Maybe it makes sense to make it sharper wide open just like the 50 f/.95 claims. Any rumor?</p>

Stuart, I am using M6 currently. So I just need a body to start shooting.

 

Kelly, I was seeking Leica glass.

 

Ricky, I've ordered an LX3. I think even if it is not suitable for night photos, I can still carry it all the time. We'll see. BTW, the link is helpful.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate them. It is great to hear that a filter can be mounted on D-Lux 4/LX3. And certainly if there is a chance I will get an M8. Nikon D700 is probably out of the question. I used Nikon before and now no longer have any Nikon equipment except an N90s body and a broken 20mm AFD. It can cost too much to get into Nikon again.

Ricky,

LX3 looks very good. But upon further study, I noticed that LX3 / D-Lux 4 has f/8 as the smallest aperture. This

may limit range of shutter speed. The lens does not seem to have filter thread either.

 

I will probably still get an LX3 just to carry it in pocket all the time.

 

Guoming

After a bit more research it looks like my only choice is D-Lux 4. Anybody having experience with it under similar situation as I described above?

I'm looking for a Leica digital camera to take long exposures at low light. I'm not considering M8 as the future

of that line is not clear. So, can anyone give suggestions among the point-and-shoot's? I only need to make 10x10

prints at most.

 

I plan to crop photos for the most of cases to square format. So 4:3 format is not a problem (or maybe even an

advantage). The questions in my mind are:

1. focus accuracy (or how easy to manual focus)

2. noise: I will be shooting at ISO 400 at most, and making long exposures with tripod. Does noise appear under

such a condition?

3. battery life: the exposure time ranges from 10 seconds to hours.

4. Above all, lens performance with strong light sources in frame.

5. Bokeh: does such a lens still have good bokeh that characterizes most of Leica lenses?

 

Thanks!

OK. I just discovered this, and would like to know if this is common, or "by

design":

 

I have a set of neutral density LEE filters. They are rectangle, and made by

resin. I put two pieces together, with the letters facing each other, and it

clearly shows 1-2mm gap in the middle while the two ends touch each other. So

the filter is not flat! I purchased the set new about 4 years ago and used them

only a couple of times. They are always try.

 

When mounted correctly on the holder, a Lee filter is flat, since it is pressed

by the holder in the middle. But how "flat" is this? Since I do landscape for

the most of time, I have never noticed the problem.

 

Any idea?

Yeah, I need to experiment on how to keep it power on while keeping the clogging rate down. I've heard people talking about preventing clogging by turning down the printer immediately after printing.

I think this is true. I tried to power on/off for several times, each time

printing a nozzle checking from Test Print menual.

 

Here is one example:

 

Printing 6 color blocks

 

clean

 

printing a large rectangle block of yellow

 

clean

 

printing 6 color blocks

 

clean

 

printing a large rectangle block of yellow

 

Done. Ink consumed: 0.3 ml (Sounds right to me)

 

 

Power off and on, and run nozzle checking from manual again.

 

Printing 6 color blocks

 

clean

 

printing a large rectangle block of yellow

 

Done. Ink consumed: 4.9 ml (I just don't believe this figure!)

 

 

 

To me, Epson probably flushes expensive ink away generously every time the

printer is powered on, but does not want to let the user know about this -- so

they somehow count the amount into tasks like cleaning/printing.

I recently bought an Epson 4000. The printer originally had Epson Ultrachrome

ink installed. I've ordered G&G. Now here is the question: Do I need to flush

the old ink before switching to G&G? Brands like Lyson and Media Street

require that, if I remember correctly.

 

Any suggestions? Thanks!

Just a follow-up. I bought a depth meter and the distance was fine -- indeed with the original configuration (superscreen) the matt side faces the lens and thus to use a satin snow gg no distance needs to be adjusted.

 

I also test shot 3 photos at f/8 -- everything was fine.

 

Thanks again for all the suggestions!

Hello,

I'm trying to loosen a small sticky screw on a camera. The screw may

be rusty, or hold in place by lock-tight. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks!

 

Guoming

Michael,

Marflex told me the matt side of the super screen faces the lens. So based on your suggestion, there is indeed no need to adjust the screws to switch to a gg. Maybe I shall just make a test shot to see if focus is indeed fine. Thanks!

 

Tito,

I wanted to use a SS gg because my superscreen was warped, and then I broke it!

 

Pete,

Thanks for your suggestion!

Thanks a lot! I appreciate all the suggestions! I'll post my solution here if my problem is resolved.

Hello,

I need to paint internal frame of a wood camera to reduce reflection.

Can somebody recommend a kind of paint that is water resistent and

has a very dull feeling? I have tried some black paint that is black

but unfortunately a bit too glossy.

 

Thanks!

I need to use a Satin Snow on a Technkardan that was previously

equipped with Linhof Super Screen. There was a suggestion that the

position does not need to be adjusted since the super screen's matt

side faces the lens. However I am not sure now: I focused the tk45

with its original back and then with everything locked, replaced the

super screen with a SS gg. The latter shows an image out of focus. So

I believe the 4 little screws need to be adjusted. Now the question

is, by what displacement should they be adjusted? I no longer have a

super screen.

 

Thanks!

It is amazing to see all these answers and suggestions in such short amount of time. Thank you very much!