greg_miller8

Comparing your net earning vs. the gallery's gross earnings is not fair. The gallery has to pay for rent, utilities, advertising, staff,... just like you have ot pay for materials. You need to compare your 50% with their 50% and decide if that's fair or not. The gallry will bring you customers that you would not get on your own. Is that worth 50%?

HORSEMAN USA REPAIR SERVICE STATION

920 Broadway, Suite 705, New York, NY 10010

Tel. 212-982-3177 Fax. 212-982-1715

Call: Casey Akagi

I had a good experience with bellows replacement with Bromwell Marketing

3 Allegheny Ctr

#111

Pittsburgh, Pa. 15212

(412) 321-4118

(412) 321 4118 Fax

I am not familiar with the Polaroid holder but with the Fuji holder it is quite easy to feel the film not moving when pulling the envelope. It does not take any extra time or effort.

 

I did have a problem with pulling too hard on the envelope resulting in the metal clip pulling off. I found that you don;t have to pull very hard to make that happen so now I pull slow and easy on the envelope.

Be sure to remember that the most important item needs to be exposed correctly (take the amout of ND into account if the item is covered by the ND portion of the grad). With slide film figure anything 2 stops brighter will be detail-less white and anything 2 stops darker will be detail-less shadow (black) - you'll start to get some detail at +/- 1.5 stops. You can use your spot meter to test the brights & shadows to see where they fall compared to item you are basing your exposure on.

Nikon & Canon are only reacting to market trends and maybe trying push trends to best need their profit objectives. As long as there is a demand for film cameras and film, Nikon & Canon, and Fuji will continue to manufacture them. Where you will lose is in the product development arena since these companies will invest their R&D budgets into the digital products. And prices will go up for analog gear due to reduced efficiencies in manufacturing in lower volumes. This is Macro Economics 101 for a free market society.

Depends on your goal. Is your intent to document or to create art. If you aim is documentary then your Photoshopping should only include changes that bring your image closer to reality. If you aim is art, then all changes are valid. If you are clear with your intent and Photoshop accordingly then there is no need for guilt.

Bart,

 

For your size lens the Wimberley Sidekick will work and is much less $ than the full Wimberley head.

Everytime I get up hours before sunrise to take a shot or am hiking out in the dark after a late day shot I tell myself that I will feel the pain just this one day but I will have the image forever. Years from now I will have long forgotten any agony that happened on this one day. So I go for the "pain for one day, pleasure for ever" philosophy and have never regretted. Take the LF.

If accurate prints are important to you then yes you need a profile for each paper/ink combination.

 

The cheapest printer profile worth buying is the Gretag Photo package - priced $1,200 to $1,500 depending on timing.

 

Another alternative is to buy custom profiles for each paper/ink combination. I have no experience with Cathy's. Prior to her a custom profile would cost $99 form vendors such as Chromix.com.

 

The 3'rd option is to buy RIP software such as Imageprint (if they support your specific printer) - priced aboud $500 for an Epson Stylus Photo 2200. Imageprint has profiles many popular paper/ink combos.

 

All the abive solutions are good and valid. Your budget and number of paper/ink combinations will drive the optimal solution for you.

 

 

If you will only

I have had a diffewrent problem with Quickloads. I have had the metal clip come off of probablt 7 or 8 sheets in the last 3 boxes. Is this a defect or am I doing something wrong. I carefully insert the film into the holder and pull out the tab to expose the film. I usually only notice it after exposing the film when I cannot push the tab back into the holder. Then I have to extract the metal clip from the holder.

I think John wants a digital camera. So do what some other have said and buy a manual camera (FM or FM2 or even an FE2) and a few lenses on Ebay. Use them on this trip to Alsaka. When you return, sell everything on Ebay. You should end up with all your money back (market value of these items is not going to change in a few months. Then buy your digital camera to use in more civilized areas. Just be sure to test all the used gear before you leave on your trip. This method gives you use of good gear for free and you also end up with that shiny new digital camera.

If you are shooting slide file, why not use the Polaroid to check basic exposure. Then check for how many stops brighter your highlights are compared to midtones to be sure that you don;t blow out the highlights. The adjust as necessary.

Bravo to Gloria on giving cigarette butts back to their owners. I often fantasize about doing it but never had the guts to do it (I do flash the brights or honk if I;m driving). Maybe its safer to do that in places other than New Jersey...

If you are a Windows user you can go to the Printers area in the COntrol Panel. Select Proporties for the printer you want to print to and there should be a tab for color managment. Pull up that tab and you can specifiy a default profile. I'm guessing Mac's have something similar.

Dell just ended a sale last week for $USD 270 - still seliing for $299. Either price is cheaper than B&H (not sure how a reputable company is pulling this off!) but sometimes Dell repeats sales so if you are not in a hurry you could wait a few weeks and keep an eye on their ite.

Scanner technology is more mature than DSLR (note the minimal gains from the Nikon Coolscan 4000 to the just released 5000). So if you invest in a DSLR you should plan to re-invest in newer technology much quicker than if you invest in a scanner. In 2 years you 4 or 5 megapixel camera will feel woefully obsolete (and not just in terms of megapixels but also in ton of other features likely to be added).

If the publisher will print in same size as you send it (8.5x 10) then you can sharpen to what looks good to you. If you do not know what size the publisher will print at then do not sharpen at all. Sharepning is too dependant on size of output. If you sharpen an image and then resize it will need resharpening.

 

I'm puzzled by your statement "I typically use 150, 1.25,1". Sharpening requirements vary greatly depending on output type (printer, web page,...), output size, & photo subject. For example, I use sharpening amounts ranging from 5 to 300 on a regular basis depending on these variables. Prints usually need more sharpening than images intended for display on a monitor. Smaller images usually require less sharpening than larger images. An image with lots of detail will need different sharpening than an image with no objects with distinct edges.

I think the X-Ray concern is overblown. I have flown several times letting my film get X-Rayed repeatedly with all the rest of my carry on gear and have never had a problem. Most recently was my recent holiday trip where 50 rolls of Velvia & Provia were X-Rayed 7 times between Newark and Peru & Chile. All slides are fine with no no sign of fogging. Maybe a different result with 800 speed film but I'll never be carrying that anyway.

A word about camera club judges. My (admittedly limited) experience is that the judges seem to be very rigid in foillowing formulas and rules for photogrpahy. The result is the photographers who consistently score highly have technically correct photographs that are largely unimaginative and uninspiring. So photograph waterfalls at several shutter speeds, figure out what you like, identify how other photographers achieved results that you like, and over time you will hopefully end up with results that you like and also have some originality that you brought into the process.

I agree with Eric in doing all adjusstments except ICE in Photoshop (occasionally a levels change in the scan for extreme images). A decent scanner with a dynamic range of 4.0 or better can handle almost any image without touching the black & white points. The scan is digital so you don't have to worry about 2nd generation, 3rd generation,...

 

As for grain, try out NIK DFine. Its primary purpose is noise reduction and they have a free trial so you can demo it before you buy it.

I have used West Coast Imaging to print large panormamas (and other large fpormat prints) on EPson printers. Their service could not be better. Excellent value.

One thing tro try would be to create a duplicate layer, change mode to "multiply". Reduce Opacity if that's too sdtrong an effect or create more layers like that one if you need more effect. This technique should cause existing color to be less washed out. Use a layer mask and pain in black to reduce the effect where it is not needed.

I just successfully upgraded to Photoshop CS from an Educational 7.0.

I have an Arca-Swiss B1 head and the nut holding the QR plate

receptor keeps loosening. I have tried tightening with a 11mm socket

but the socket profile is too wide to fit inside the circular aresa

that the nut drops in to so I cannot tightne the nut satisfactorily.

Anyon know of a 11mm wrench that might work? Thanks.