beaglefur

<p>I believe all you have to do is select "render using Lightroom" and you will maintain the full capability of LR 2.2 without having to upgrade to CS4.</p>

The term DPI (dots per inch) and PPI (pixels per inch) are often used interchangably, but they're not the same. Printers need several droplets of ink per pixel to create smooth tones which is why images at 300 pixels per inch are printed at 600-2800 dots per inch. Generally speaking if you are between 200 and 300 pixels per inch you are in good shape.

Pretty tough to beat Yellowstone NP...

My guess is the the "destined evolution" is all about the eventual merging of still photography with video...

Check out Red River Paper. They sell several styles of paper, specifically for greeting cards, and have profiles for the 3800 on their site. You can order one of their sample kits very inexpensively.

 

The 3800 is a very good printer for printing cards, by the way.

I haven't....I'm very happy with my 28/1.8 on both my 5D and crop cameras...but this guy has:

 

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-30mm-f-1.4-EX-DC-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx

Yep. If you've got the money, go for it. The biggest difference I see between the two is that the 20D handles much better. Buffer size is considerably larger (I used to wait for the buffer to clear on my 300D all the time), AF is faster, and once you get used to the quick control dial on the back you will wonder what you did without one. Add a much more robust body, better feel in your hands

 

The extra resolution isn't huge, but you will see a difference (primarily some additional detail) in large prints.

 

$450 for a used one is a good price. They typically sell in that neighborhood on ebay.

 

Good luck.

Hi William

 

I mis-typed. What I meant to say is that the IS of the f/4 zoom was more important to me than the extra stop of the 24-70/2.8, because the only advantage I saw to the extra stop was shallower depth of field at a given focal length.

 

I have 3 prime lenses in my kit that I utilize if I'm really looking for very shallow depth of field: the 28/1.8, 50/1.4 and 85/1.8. I especially love the 85 for "big Bokeh portraits", also for low light candids. For the zoom, I wanted IS so I could drag the shutter without having to use a tripod.

 

Thanks for the compliment. That particular groom had twirled his bride twice earlier in the same day, and I suspected he might again. I anticipated, but it was definitely on the fly.

This is just my 2 cents worth, but I decided that the IS was more useful to me than the additional depth of field, so I went with the 24-105/4 IS. This is mainly because it allows me to drag the shutter sufficiently to get motion blur, while maintaining a steady enough platform to keep everything else sharp. That leads to shots like this...<div></div>

Cool. You won't regret it.

 

Post some good shots when you get back.

 

Keep the open side (of the canoe) up. ;-)

Having done several canoe trips (30+ to Boundary Waters and Quetico, plus river trips down the Namekagon and St. Croix rivers (to name a couple) I'd highly recommend a Pelican case.

 

Not only are they extremely tough and completely water tight, but you can paddle with one on the floor of the canoe in front of you and have much quicker access than a dry bag in the event you want to get to your gear quickly, for wildlife, etc.

 

B&H sells them with movable dividers, which is what I got after returning one with the "pluckable" foam insert.

My 2 lens combo for canoe trips is a 24-105/4 IS and a 100-400/4-5.6 IS for my 5D. Often I will throw in my 28/1.8 or my 50/1.4 for a fast prime for northern lights as well...

Another thing to consider is that AF performance for moving subjects improves in AI Servo if your lens is f/2.8 or faster as there are 6 more AF sensors that kick in.

 

I really love my 85/1.8 and my 28/1.8 on my 5D...

Another vote here for a prime lens or two. Get the 85/1.8. It's favorite portrait lens. Perhaps a bit long on a 20D, but if you're outdoors you shouldn't have trouble backing up a little.<div></div>

Single frame, cropped to a 3x1 aspect ratio.

 

The actual printed area was approx 24x70 and then some of the photo was "lost" due to wrapping the canvas around stretcher bars.

I have a 5D and an Epson 7600, I did a large panorama on canvas that is 20" x 66". I'm amazed at how much detail was preserved.

The usual places.....Craig's list, ebay. I got mine off ebay. Depending on where you live, you might be able to bid on one where you can just pick it up.

 

Usual disclaimers regarding buying used stuff online apply, i.e. check out the seller, see if you can look at it first, etc.

You could look at a used printer. I was in the same boat with my 2200 and picked up a used 7600 for about 800 bucks. It's a generation older than the 7800, but substantially cheaper.

Another vote for the 85/1.8

 

Great sharpness, depth of field, and I like the perspective better, even on a crop body, compared to a 50mm.

Another vote for the 85/1.8 here. I like the 85 a LOT better than the 50. Granted, there is a difference in price there, but the AF is considerable better. Image quality is fantastic. The extra 2+ stops of available light will definitely come in handy for the type of photography you're talking about.

 

I'd say you could even get the 85, try it out, and then decide what else you need later. It seems like exactly what you need, in my opinion (take that for what it's worth) ;-)<div></div>

It has been my experience that I can handhold a crop body and my 5D at pretty much the same shutter speed with the same lens. I use 1/focal length as a guideline for both cameras.

 

If it was just a function of sensor size, the converse would apply to medium format cameras...

If you can get a fast wide angle prime, I think it would serve you better. I was shooting Northern Lights last fall and wishing for more speed than my f4 zoom had, which meant I had to crank up ISO...

I'll second Cliff's suggestion of the dividers. Much more user friendly than the foam, IMO, not to mention flexible if you wish to set it up different if you buy a new piece of gear, etc.

 

Bought mine from B&H...

The biggest piece of advice I could add to the already good range of responses would be: Go hold both cameras. Literally. Pick them up, feel them, shoot with them. They feel far different in your hand than they'll look when you're comparing prints.

 

Image quality is a factor here, but a small one. Ergonomics and features are what will make the difference.

 

Bottom line, megapixels should not be the sole deciding factor between the two, IMO.

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=19432409&search=canon+17-55mm&op[]=page,1891,1

 

Put your zip code in and it even figures shipping for you, so you can base your selection on total cost. Also, they usually only list reputable dealers.