diego_k.

Its been 2 years since I left Madrid, but here it goes:

 

When I called disefoto they told me they don't do it themselves, they send it to leica Germany and price quotation for my M3s CLA was around 700e more or less (not a sure figure till they see the camera over there). In that occasion I sent it to DAG in the US, did a great job. Never better, that M3 still ticks in the hands of a good friend of mine.

 

Afterward I had to CLA an M4 and M4-2, didn't want to spend the over 400$ the M3 cost with shipping and all. I was recommended a place in calle carretas 12, don't remember the name, it took them 6 weeks and 4 visits to assemble the RF correctly after I managed to convince them that its not the way it supposed to be when you see fussy in the RF patch, even then it would shift up and down when focusing from CU to infinity. Same place messed up my mamiya 6mf, never focused correctly again.

 

The M4-2 was sent to a place next to palacio de la moneda, cornering doctor esquerdo st. again, zero knowledge about the camera. Charged 150e to realign the RF, had to give it 3 tries till he did it right. on he's behalf I should say he did a surprisingly good job on cleaning a 50/1.2 canon lens.

 

After 5 M's and some madrid repair facilities (these are only some experiences) I decided that if the camera is worth it, send it somewhere outside. I had more miss happens with other cameras and facilities, and cant say there is one in Madrid I trust my cameras with.

Its been some time since the last of my T's but as far as I remember, taking the top off is not a problem. There is a screw on the right to the finder in a diagonal position, not easily reached.

 

Under the advance lever you have a small cover, taking it off will enable you to get a 00 screwdriver straight to the adjustment screw, in a diagonal direction under other internal stuff..

 

If I remember correctly taking the top off will let you see the path the screwdriver goes, after you learn that, you can do it without taking it off.

I would appreciate any thoughts about the combo as you use it. I intend to buy a similar one.

I Had the oportunity to play for a short while with the 510, its not that small. In comparison to otrher SLRs it is, like D3, but it's substantialy bigger than expected from the comments I heard.

 

I dislike as well the botton arrangement; just to many of them. I know that once all is configured I will not touch one of those again. RAW to BW is al I intend to do. so I am inclined to get the 420 as soon as I can get it with the 25 kit. thanks to all of you for your input.

I know IS wont stop subject motion, but it gives you the option to at least get the shot. My usual shutter speeds with RFs are 1/15 to 1/125' using F2 lenses. So its not new. I guess IS will get me reasonable sharpness with 1/5 or so, when needed. but if the body of the 420 is much smaller the the 510 its a point to have in mind, otherwise the price at amazon.com is similar for both.

 

About digital RF. the cost is still too high for experimenting, and the volume of photographs I produce (hobby,non profit) does not encourage me to spend that much money.

 

I just want 1 camera and one lens, that will give me a good quality picture to work with. I have that on film and want to try to get me a set up like that on digital.

I am a long time film shooter (oly OM, Nikon, Leica, Contax and a bunch of 120

gear) every now and then I try some digital cameras, but never find the one

right for me.

 

I shoot street photography, and 50mm is about it, when I read that Olympus was

coming out with the 25mm, I got really excited, I've heard great reviews from

the newer E cameras, and with this lens it seems really nice package.

 

My question is more of a preference issue. what would be a better setup, a 510

(with IS) and the 25mm making it in practice an F1.4 (assuming 2 stops cover of

the IS) shooting lens. or a 420 making the setup much smaller (closer to leica M

sizes). Also, is there much difference in sensor technology between the 2?

 

my access to actual cameras is limited and would buy on the internet.

 

thanks in advance

Forgot to mention that it came on a Contax II 1936 camera

Hi all;

 

Could someone help identifying year of manufacture and origin of lens? I am

unsure given the variations of engravings, pre and post WWII and such. Lens has

faint purplish coating and some bubbles on the last 2 elements.

 

Thanks<div></div>

I sold mine, more of a user condition. about 18 months ago, for 550euros with a 50 lux. Had quite a hard time selling it. I'm not sure now its any easier to sell.

My story not leica related but can?t help myself,

 

One afternoon walking and shooting with an old Minolta autocord, a 20 something guy stands to my right, pips into the groundglass and with exclamation said ?wow that?s one nifty LCD screen you have there! how many MP does it take??

 

That?s not all, about 25min later I took a picture of a young lady at her store, and eventhough I took my time preparing the camera and waiting for the right moment, she only realized I took her picture after depressing the release. For a few minutes she insisted that I delete the picture at once and poor me showing her the camera and explaining that this camera is older than both of us all together and can?t delete the pictures. I did look her up to give her the transparency, but never found her.

I have used a handfull of cameras for SF, the ones I liked most were Mamiya 6 and bronica ETRSi with plain prism. Now after a lot of changes (needed the money) Im using a minolta autocord, early type i think, quite nice. TLR arent my cup of tea but getting used to it. Here is a shot from a couple of weeks ago in Jerusalem.

 

I do think the M6 is THE camera for street, tlr are nice too if you can get along with them.<div></div>

Just a small contribution. First of all, Im not a big fan of TLR (my main cam for years was the M6MF), I had a Rollei 2.8D, and recently picked up an autocord from a friend's "dusty old cameras" wall memorial. Took me a few days of cleaning to get it working again, but it is a nice little camera, smaller than the 2.8 rollei, both because of the lens (3.5) and the lack of focusing knob on the side, makes it a nice 3 fingers operation all in the front of the camera. As far as lens quality..... 1/30 F3.5 handheld.... It wouldnt be my mayor concern. All in all I find it a nice little cam, good results, and can be had dirt cheap nowdays.

Swirl<div></div>

I dont like it. Maybe with a chrome lens it would look nice.

Its true, although the market is slow prices are holding. Its been a while since I am trying to sell an Sl2 and 35-70 zoom with no success.

 

I really doubt the DMR will change anything, whoever can afford it, will by all his equipment new from the store.

Ok thanks, Ill calibrate the ISo dial first and will take it from there. It is clearly off.

Im sure its that. Just to be on the safe side, I get 1/2sec at 800 ISO without any lens.

Im using a 3.5 zoom lens. My lux is due next week.

Since I have decided to keep my SL2 mot, figured I could just as well

calibrate the meter for silver oxide batteries (always use it

batteryless). With quite success I managed to get the low light and

mid light levels right, but cant get the camera to measure anything

above 12EV.

 

Reasons could be behind this;

A. Metering cell is malfunctioning. Not so sure since under 12EV all

metering is consistent and spot on, down to very low light levels.

B. The High light potentiometer is out. Although has some reaction on

the lower part of its run, lowering the meter reading.

C. ISO cam under the rewind knob is out of alignment. This one seems

to be the most logical option, since this camera had the normal Sl2

screen installed, maybe someone messed around with it and put it

together incorrectly.

 

So, if other users could help me in this one to find the correct

position it would be great. For a clear reference I would like to use

the upper circle that appears on the right hand of the finder, which

marks the upper limit of the meter needle.

 

In my camera, when I put the reference mark (the one that moves when

you change aperture/speed/iso) right over it, with the semicircle

showing between the 2 bars: the camera is set to 1sec / F4 / 800

ISO/30 DIN.

 

What configuration of Speed, Aperture and ISO do you get? If someone

know the EV range this meter is sensible to it would be a great help.

Contact Don Goldberg at http://dagcamera.com/ if anyone he can tell you and even give you a price estimate.

Asumming your talking about hte current lenses. Had the 2 of them, Both are on par on contrast, I like the Elmar Better. Both are excelent.

 

The focusing with the elmar might be hard to get used to, the focusing throw is quite short and very light, much smother the cron in that aspect with longer focus throw, or at least more damped.

Here is another one while we wait for yours Didier<div></div>

A. I couldnt care less. IF the pics are good he can use a Ps for all I care.

 

2. When I go to a wedding I wish to have fun not to work. So no, I would nt do that.

Its the split image one with microprism collar, not sure which one its supposed to have. and you are right the DOF preview is black metal, my mistake.

 

on the bottom it has the 3 electric contacts and holes for te motor drive.

Yes the light works ok.

<p>

My first impressions from the camera after a couple of rolls:

<p>

-Heavy, medium format kind of heavy.<p>

-Very good VF, using it with the 35-70/3.5 minolta zoom it came with gives you a finder almost as bright as the scene itself. Can�t imagine it with a summilux. Although it does have a blue tint to it.<p>

-I am not using the meter for the time being, since the batteries are alkaline, although it works and responds to changing light, I prefer to trust my years with non metered Ms and other cameras.<p>

-Advance lever is not ratcheted as with Ms.<p>

-Plastic DOF preview button looks so vulnerable, cant imagine how it survived all these years.<p>

-Funny location for the battery check button.<p>

-The speed and aperture readout in the VF is a very clever design, its a shame they put is backwards, the indicators move in the opposite direction to the F stop and shutter speed dials.<p>

<p><p>

I am still a bit reluctant on using a �collectors� camera, but until I get to Madrid I only have this one and a compact T, so it will have to do :)