michael_marsh1
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Posts posted by michael_marsh1
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when i use an mc lens in program with the x7oo or shutter priority with xd 5 i just stop down to minimum aperture and dont pay attention
to any flashing lights and get good results.if you have a lens with a lazy diaphram it could be a problem no matter what body you use
mj marsh
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i worked in a factory once with this guy named Malgazini.He had huge
hands.his wedding band was size 18 and was literally choking his finger.Mabey its the same guy
MJ MARSH
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YOU know,ROGER,
i would never refer to anyone who wanted a high quality point and shoot as any kind of a loser at all.We should be gad that leica and others are bringing out new film based products.I use an m6 on a
regular basis but would consider this as a better than average back up
with better than average glass.I wont flame you because it is beneath me to do so.I will tell you that i respect everyones choice of equipment weather its a leica,nikon, minolta or a kodak hawk-eye.My nose is always on the level
mj marsh
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I think it would be great in b&w printed on high contrast paper.The space is nice and the elements of action are there.You already have multiple center of interest so lose the color and the clutter will go away.Id like to see a whole series of these.As it is i will give it a
nine
mj marsh
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I never have had flare with the 58 1.4 or 1.2 but my 55 1.7 of the same vintage had this problem.I use rubber hoods on all now.the factory hoods back then were often metal screw in type with felt on the inside.I have one on my 1974 80-200 4.5 mc.IT is perfect but ive never seen another one that was.repair shops usually have a box full of odd ones for cheap.
mj marsh
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you want to go cheap then a good canonet or minolta hi matic 7s2.
moderate expense then get the bessa r2.
expensive? leica m6 with a 50 or 35.
mj marsh
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Id let go of the fm2 when they pry it from my cold dead hand.i use four minoltas and am going to switch to two fm3a.I could never trade in any of the minoltas.they have been my friends when ive had none.
mj marsh
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The first one i used was a kodak hawkeye 126.I shot a roll of b&w and my father told me that i had a good eye.Three years later he bought me an srt 201 with a 45 f2.I had it overhauled and recalibrated for the current 625 battery and I still use it today.
mj marsh
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why? my first srt was one of the last made and is still going strong.
yes it had an overhaul after 23 years.my second srt was one of the first made and still going strong.I bought the x700 in 1984 and only recently had it overhauled.my xd 5 is also working great after 25 years.the lenses speak for themselves.
mj marsh
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I think jc penny sold focal.test it,i here some are not bad
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your diaphram may have a broken spring.i took apart a tokina rmc recently the pin that protrudes into the body was disconnected.the screws were floating inside.
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try to find these lenses in e+ condition.
24 f2 rokkor x
35 1.8 1974-76 version
58 1.2 1974-76 version
85 1.7
100 2.5
135 2.0
50 3.5 macro with tube 1974-76 version
the mid 70s lenses that i listed are only mc tabed but are high build
quality
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id hate to see you sand on such a beautiful camera.you could try gaffers tape or cloth handlebar tape
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ladies and gentlemen,
I still need the hood,soo if anyone knows where i can get the hood only, I could really use the help.
thanks
MJ Marsh
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24-50 f4 rokkor x is very good.the 35-70 3.5 macro[the 2 ring one thatis 3.5 non variabe aperture]is excellent.i have an 80-200 mc f4.5
that is very good as well.tokina is middle of the road.i had the szx 70-210.it wasnt a bad lens but the build quality inside isnt near the minolta or tamron.i know they built some for minolta to specs,and these are good.i also own the tamron 24-48 sp.its nice but can be suject to flare.i have the tamron 71a 28-200 that i use casually on the go.better than the tokina and ok for what it is but not great and not even close to primes.
mj marsh
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Im 35 and use my leica m6 for two reasons.IM SERIOUS ABOUT MY WORK and it wont be a paperweight in 10 years when all those lcd panels bleed to death.i work in 100' rolls and i have humidity control so i bet you my srt 101 will be going strong then as well.do you guys like to work in the darkroom?
MJ MARSH
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praktica superTL.my wifes uncle gave it to me.It was his replacement for the leica c3 or g3 that was stolen from him while he was stationed in germany.to my surprise,the meyer optik 50 1.8 is fairly sharp.the color on the hanimar 135 2.8 wasnt so good.the thing was really gumed up and wound like a rusty gate.so i cleaned it with windex and an old toothbrush[im laughing right now]and worked everything about 1000 times.i did take care to clean the glass in the same manner as my leica gear and was careful not to let the windex invade anywhere.i slapped in a roll of 800 color print,grabbed my trusty sekonic and blazed away.fair results.should i open my own praktica cleaning service?
MJ marsh
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hello,
although i own a leica m6 and im in love with it,there is one camera that i drift back to.my black minolta srt 101 with the first version 58 1.2.ive had the camera totally overhauled and recalibrated
for the current 625 battery.i do b&w portraits and a lot of my old and new work is done with this lash up.no ''custom''functions and it has an aperture ring.the spotmatic does feel better in the hand,i must agree.
mj marsh
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Eric,
thank you.youve brought me to the begining to the end of a long quest.the guys at tamron didnt want to know me.thanks again
michael
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i own a tamron 24-48 sp adaptall 3.5-3.8 bbar wide zoom.it has a
bayonet lens cap.my main question is,was their a hood made for this
lens.it appears to have a very slight hood machined into the barrel
but this is not really usefull for preventing lens flare.the front
element is rounded and it would appear that no filter can be
mounted.was there a special filter for this lens?also,i would like to
here thoughts on the 60-300 sp adaptall.
thank you very much
mmtmarsh@aol.com
Minolta SRT 101 lenses
in Sony/Minolta
Posted
when i use an mc lens in program with the x7oo or shutter priority with xd 5 i just stop down to minimum aperture and dont pay attention
to any flashing lights and get good results.if you have a lens with a lazy diaphram it could be a problem no matter what body you use
mj marsh