david_carson

<p>That's pretty funny! I love the Onion.</p>

And I use an sto-fen flash diffuser with the power bumped up about 1 2/3 stops and pointed up a bit.

On the photo-induced YouTube show, I've seen the custom brackets CB-MiniRC recommended by a red carpet shooter.

I'd like to try that, as I have a Pro-T bracket that annoyingly flips when I don't want it to. Plus the Pro-T is very bulky. I

think the Pro-T will give a bit better results, but since I am primarily an available-light shooter (flash for staged shots only), the benefits of the CB-MiniRC would

seem to outweigh the negatives.

<p>I've owned the Canon f/1.2 85mm mkI and f/1.8, and the 75mm Summilux. Also shot extensively with the manual focus Nikon 105mm f/2.5. I would say the Canon f/1.2 is the most similar in terms of 'look' when shot wide open. That 'look,' as defined by me, is nice vignetting, creamy bokeh, and strong center sharpness with less sharp corners.</p>

<p>The nikkor 105mm f/2.5 is just too blazing sharp wide open to be similar to the Summilux and has less attractive bokeh. Great lens, though. The Canon 1.8 is also too evenly sharp when shot wide open, and is a flare-y bastard.</p>

 

There are also some flip down magnafiers that clip to your glasses. Very slim, and fit in a pocket easier.

I like the F-1x too. I cut the strap off for an OP-Tech bag strap and took that irritating "lid-must-be-snapped-closed-to-use" handle off and replaced it with the domke "dowel-in-the-middle" accessory handle which clips to each end of the bag. Now I can pick it up without clipping the bag shut.

<p>Unless you are dropping your camera often in the mud or sand or have metal objects bouncing around in your bag next to your lens, you won't scratch the UV filter. And <strong>even if</strong> you manage to scratch it, no normal scratch on the filter (or even on the front element of the lens) will ever show up on the final image (ok, maybe, just maybe, on a super close focusing macro lens it might. And only if the scratch is truly horrific). You can replace/clean the UV filter way easier than the front element, and with less stress. But, if you are shooting in wet weather/blowing sand, you really should use a UV filter for protection.</p>

<p>And heck, except for weather protection, the coating on the front element of modern lenses is so tough that I don't use any clear filters on some lenses. Even the best multi-coated filters add some potential level of flare.</p>

<p>However, on my leica lenses, I can't bear <strong>not</strong> to use a filter just because the lenses are so spendy. This is an emotional decision, not a rational one. With a cold analytic viewpoint, to spend big bucks on leica glass only to add a level of image degradation in the front is rather dumb.</p>

<p>I have used cameras very heavily as a pro wedding photographer and amateur photojournalist. Trust me on this. It's much worse to get no image at all.</p>

Don't use a lens cap. If you can't stop worrying about the glass, then use a high quality UV filter (B+W mrc) instead of the cap. 100% fix.

I like the FM2. FE2's, if I remember correctly, have some part availibity issues.

 

You might also consider a F5 or 8008s. The 8008s are dirt cheap, have a high eyepoint finder, a spotmeter, and a bigger/wider range exposure meter readout than the 90-series cameras.

Many large format shooters use a three wheeled jogging baby stroller to carry their heavy cameras...

Storm cases have way better/easier latches...The 2500 has built-in wheels and handle.

<p>Are you sponsered by any of the vendors whose products you use?</p>

I approach this question with my personal response to full-frame prints made from each format and not through math. Maybe you are like me. All those format conversion charts one finds on the web always seemed "off" in my way of feeling.

<P>

I like 50's in 35mm. I feel like a 120mm in 6x6 is about a 55/60mm in 35mm. Maybe a 65mm sometimes.

<P>

And, although I haven't shot one, I think a 100mm hassy = ~45mm in 35mm format. I arrive at that guess because I feel a 80mm hassy = 35mm in the 35mm format.

<P>

I think the extra "bottom" of the 6x6 is the reason for this feeling. The square format gives a wider view to my eye.

As you are going to the beach, make sure you can zip your bag completely shut. Sand gets EVERYWHERE.

 

<P>

I have many Domkes; they are great but mine don't zip up as they are meant to be worked out of. I use a Lowepro Orion at the beach.

<p>Is there a way to make the 5D mkII's focusing points disappear? I'm thinking of my 1v's system, where one can make just the central focus point glow red all the time, and hide all the others. I prefer to use just the cental focusing point anyway.</p>

<p>Hello, just doing a little research before I buy. If I install a Eg-S screen in a 5D mkII, will the 9 focusing points still show up black? I'm not sure if they are engraved in that focusing screen or if they are somehow projected. I actually wouldn't mind if they aren't there, as I only use the central one anyway.</p>

<p>Ok, I finally just found a store with a body and figured this out. The focus system philosophy in the D700 is different than the D3.<br>

There is no custom function to make the D700 focus point always glow red (I only use the central focus point), unlike the D3. Custom function A6 doesn't fix it on any of its settings.</p>

<p>Also, I discovered that there is no way to make the focus point blink once focus is achieved (like any Canon and I believe the D3). The D700's focus point will blink if you press half-way down on the shutter button/AF-button to tell you which point is active, but the only controls that will tell you that focus is good are 1) the beep, if you have this turned on, and 2) the little green dot in the lower left of the viewfinder. </p>

<p>Thanks everyone!</p>

<p>Thanks Lil! I guess what I mean is when a6 is set to "on", is the rectangle red whenever the meter is active?<br /> <br /> For example, with the D3, I touch the shutter button to activate the meter, and the rectangle lights up red. When I push halfway it focuses and blinks a brighter red when it has focused.</p>

<p>I dug a little deeper and looked into the custom functions. Here's what the manual from nikonusa.com has to say:</p>

<p align="left"><strong>a6: AF Point Illumination</strong> <br /> <strong>Auto </strong> <br /> (default) <br /> The selected focus point is automatically highlighted as needed to establish contrast with the background. DX format crop is indicated by frame in viewfinder. <strong></strong> <br /> <strong>On </strong> <br /> The selected focus point is always highlighted, regardless of the brightness of the background. DX format crop is <br /> indicated by frame in viewfinder. Depending on the brightness of the background, the selected focus point may <br /> be difficult to see.<br /> <strong>Off</strong> <br /> The selected focus point is not highlighted. Area outside DX format crop is indicated by transparent mask in viewfinder.</p>

<p align="left"><br /> So, since I don't have a D700 to test, can somebody who does try these options and post? I'm wondering if the "on" option means the point is red.</p>

<p>I haven't bought one yet. The couple I've looked at (at different vendors) both have a thick black focus point.</p>

<p>I am finally getting ready to dip my toe into the digital realm, and have a question about the D700 focus point. I rented a D3 last weekend, and loved the focus point display method (etched into the screen). A thin, light red glowing rectangle is the focus point (just like my old Canon 1v).</p>

<p>However, when I picked up a D700, the focus point is a heavy black rectangle that blinks red when focused. I understand the focus points aren't etched in the D700, but are in a LCD layer.</p>

<p>So, my questions to you guys is, "Can one change the focus point display? Either making it thiner or making it red?"</p>

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I have a 120 makro and a Leica 75mm. Because the square format feels wider than a rectangular one, I think a 150mm might be the ticket for you for the top end.

Hahahahhaah! Sp...you cheeky monkey! I can, on occasion and only if the planets align, open the Domke clips one-handed. It is hard.

<P>But I was talking about <b>closing</b> them one-handed. All you have to do is, when wearing the bag, is hook the lip of the clip on the metal circle and pull up & in. It snaps right on.

I haven't noticed any humidity-related problems with my Domkes, but I live in the upper midwest of the USA. It does get pretty humid up here in the summer, but not like parts of Asia, I imagine.

 

 

<P>The metal clips are <i><b>supposed</b></i> to be hard to open as they're an anti-pickpocket device. I like them and they are easy to close one-handed.

 

 

<P>When I'm not concerned (most of the time), I just snap the 802's clip on the flap's zipper to stop the metal-on-metal rattle.