h_macdonald

Thanks for all the input towards my dilemma.

As yet i have to visit a shop or repair place to check the camera and lens, but today i

thought id check the lens for the 100th time and had the idea if the lens is not retreating

back further enough then how about if i adjust the rear element a few turns and it worked

i tested a roll of film and and they all came out sharp from near to infinity

I then put another film to see if i had inadvertly adjusted the lens on close focusing and it

seemed spot on . still it may need looking at further but until then it seems to work

As i have no other lenses to try i guess i will have to visit the city and try a few camera

shops to see if there let me try a different lens

The ground glass : is it supported by tension springs as by putting some pressure with

fingers it gives a mm or two movement but springs back on release but when pressed the

infinity becomes more clear ? i am clutching at straws here i know.

How difficult is it to remove or adjust the ground glass, i found only one site with some

instruction from the makers of beattie screens, but of all the instructions the pentax 6x7

had a special not unlike other replacement instructions as being they should be removed

by camera tech only

Does this mean its very precise removal, are there adjuster screws beneath the frame for

glass adjustment

thanks

Hi

I have a Pentax 6x7 non MLU Body and was bought off ebay a few months ago

before it arrived the seller emailed me that they had put a test roll through it check

as standard procedure before they shipped and during test the mirror locked up.

i was told that the camera would be repaired and shipped when fixed.

A few weeks later the camera body arrived it seemed fine and the film they used as test

had a few shots left do i wound on and clunk the mirror worked.

few more months later whilst with no lens i finally found one at a local camera fair.

A 90mm leaf shutter type which i thought was a reasonable price.

when i got home i put the lens on the camera and in shock i could not get the lens to

focus on infinity, the lens looks fine and not tampered or no hints of marks indicated it

been abused.

Anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be?

Thanks in advance

Has anyone had any experience with shooting "Kodak copy film 4125"

in camera.I have some 10X12 sheets to try and wondered what asa for

Daylight exposure,also which developer used. I have Tmax,Hc110,

dev available would these be ok to use .Any tips or advice

appreciated

Thanks in advance

Hi

I have a set of 360 symmar lens elements and was wondering on what

would be the correct shutter for them. Ive looked at Schneider

optics site and it refers to a "5FS" shutter which i presumed was a

compound, after searching through forums it seems to be a compound #

5

but measuring the thread on each elements they both seem to be

around 67.5 which from memory seems too small for a compound #5 as

i have an old 300 xenar in compound # 5 ? and the thread seems much

wider

i cannot check exactly my xenar in compound as i am away from home

for a while so not sure.

Where there variation on compound shutters, even though the

numbering of them was the same as in 1,2,3,4,5

Phew... i was about to attempt to undo the front as well thanks for that info

You are also right about the screw which i over looked, there seems to be a small brass screw around the top of barrel but does not have an indentation for screw driver just flat and is very firm, (bit worried of turning it with pliers ;( ) Also there is a tiny screw beneath the base of the barrel sort off vertical to the lens upright?

is there a particular order of which to undo first...

Hi

I have an old 150mm symmar lens which is in a chrome barrel, the

iris/aperture seems fine but does not have click stops just turns

smoothly when u rotate to various fstops

My question is the rear element can unscrew quite simply but i am

unable to remove the front element yet

as its screwed in below the chrome barrel making it impossible to

access

There is the 2 notches either side to unscrew the front element but

was wondering which spanner would fit as i have no tools as of yet..

The rear element seems to fit in a copal 1 shutter so can i assume

the front lens will also fit the copal 1 shutter... hope this makes

sense thanks in advance for any suggestions

Hi

Ive looked at your pic of spring and to me it looks like it maybe was a made to grip the rubber tubing/or if the flash sync type -the leads of a packard shutter to be held out the way of being in view of lens/film.I have an 2D camera with this type of shutter an that spring maybe the reason?

As for the bed problem, try some beeswax of candle wax along the rail guides on the side and see if the F standard brass fitting are slighty bent.when sliding the standard on to rails make sure it goes on even to the brass gearsas u only need a few out which may make it more dificult as u progress towards the rear standard

Exposure: I found the method of saying "1kentucky" = 1 sec 1ken=1/2 sec

1=1/4 seems to work ;)

Hope this helps

Hugh

Hi Michael

I have used an MPP V and enjoyed using it for some time as it was my first 5x4, they are built like tanks and very robust,portable being folders unlike monorails and are resonably modest in weight .I paid around ?180 with an old xenar 150 lens, they have good bellows draw that could accept upto 300mm but like somebody has mentioned here they hardly leave the shores of uk.. they do turn up on Ebay UK from time but keep your eye out for the MK VI as thats the nicest or the MKV 2nd choice

Hugh

I have just recenlty got lens 300mm Xenar 4.5 in compound shutter

but i having the same trouble only T/B can be cocked using the pin perfect but the 2 diffrent type of cable releases

i have tried will not

it trys to but u can see the iris does not fully open

yet when cocked using the pin works normal? .. i guess i have to use that tiny hole in pin for some string

any ideas

Well i bought them from ebay 230$ phew but i did manage to get in touch with Sinar and they said they would fit

As i rang dealer they assumed i was intrested in new ones

the chap there told me "am i sitting down for price" ... ...big pause......."£465+vat" how many do you want lol

thanks everyone for the advice

I have allready a complete 10x8 Norma just only with 10x8 wide angle bellows but really wondered if the SinarP normal tapered 10x8 bellows would really fit are the fittings the same on the bellows (Pversion)plastic mountings at each end or are they totaly different to the Norma

Thanks

Hi All

Does anyone know if there is a diffrence

between Sinar Norma and Sinar P 8X10 Bellows in terms of fitting

as i am looking for Norma Version or some that would fit but have

seen some SinarP ones for sale an i am wondering will they fit the

Norma

thanks

H Macdonald

Well after a huge search i finally found some .. anyone else who maybe after such sizes and others here is the link

http://www.mahn.net/Frameset.htm

Thanks i will try those places for film u mentioned ...

Correction "SOHO" was wrong,on plate in front it says:

"Amalgamated Photographic

Manufacturers Limited

3 Soho Square London W

I have a 10x8 allready a Kodak 2d and when i held a spare back i have against the 10x12 it sorta look dwafted even thou only a few inches smaller those extra inches of film look like there will make a big diffrence

As for holders there is no metal plates inside which i remember seeing on other holders this holder is double sided with 2 slides

the depth of glass would be 6mm from measurements taken from the larger inner rebate...and has tiny brass latches to hold film in<div></div>

Hi all.

Does anyone know where i can get 10x12 film, i am in London

As i have a Lancaster & Son Soho 10X12 View camera not sure of age

but i guess the turn of the century

it came with Busch's Rapid Aplanat No 3 focal length 10" f8-64

and 3 wooden plate film holders that open like gate fold with brass

clips to hold plate holder together

Anyone have any knowledge on the lens

I read somewhere i could place thing piece of glass with film

attached by tape etc but

which side would the film lay, inside facing the ground glass or

outside towards the lens?

Has anyone had success with this method or any other with old plate

holders to take modern film

thanks

hypothesis<div></div>

I have a strange set of lenses in shutter that i cant find any info on

The shutter is a UNICUM and has fstops which i am not familiar with:

starting from: F0,to f20 in the order of 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc any

ideas on how to convert them to regular > standard f/stop markings

Also it comes with 6 different elements each pair are marked Emile

Busch Rathenow with a

markings to match up element pairs "1,2,3"

i have put them on my kodak 2D 10x8 and

they all seem to cover > 1: seems to be a wide angle 150mm 2: mid -

Wide

200mm > 3: standard 270mm > They come in a leather box marked on the

front

Busch Unicum Aplanatsat x or s its

very worn lettering > at the bottom of box is marked "Mod C" the

shutter

is mangled not firing, but the iris work when moving the aperture >

ring i would

really like to try them but can understand the f stop marks to

metering some else suggested i would need the original intructions

buy i cannnot find any ifo on this

xhypothesis