asif_habib

I have taken the plunge and spent all my pennies/cents... I have two

questions if you can be kind to answer.

 

1. I'm not sure if the IS system works on my XL1s, I have a Canon 28-

135IS lens and you can see when the image is being stabalized (starts

to move very slowly) I cant detect anything like that on the XL1s

lens, nor hear the stabalizer move. Is the technology diff to the

photo lens?

 

2. I need a decent shoulder mount, can anyone advise a good one that

doesn't cost silly money? (In in UK). Is there any websites that give

you simple shooting tips?

 

Thanks in Advance

The new lens is a great idea, the big question is... will it be compatible with the 10D? surely if Nikon can do one for their D100, canon can(no pun intended). Might need an adaptor though.

Does anyone know how to disable the pre flash on a 10D? I assume you

will be losing the E-TTL facility. I wish there was just normal TTL

mode available as its causing the slaves to trigger on the pre-

flash. Is there any mode on the EOS system to disable this? or a

work around?

 

Im using a 10D with 380EX speedlight.

 

Kind Regards

This is a wind up right? two different classes of camera's and money no object.....

Excellent! Greatly appreciated friends.

 

For some reason I always assumed that in Manual mode the flash fired at full intensity... maybe it does on my G2??

Equipment = Canon 10D with 380EX flash light

 

As I understand it, selecting the Tv and Av modes the flash acts as

fill in. I have so far used the P mode, using flash(bounce) and I

have been obtaining great results. The only problem is that this

mode always uses a large aperture i.e 3.5 or 5.6. I dont want this

all the time, sometimes a want a greater DOF and would like to use

F8, the only way would be to use Manual mode? I dont want to lose

E-TTL functionality. If I select Av mode the flash fires but the

exposure time is greatly increased, resulting in camera shake.

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Regards

Thanks for a very good and detailed answer Justin. I guess i'll have to wait until for teh perfect conditions.

 

Regards

I dont see why a film camera would have been dissapointing, if you are talking about a compact then maybe yes, if you are talking about an SLR then def no.

I think the sensor is too small to register 5mp, 4mp was pushing it. Looks like Canon just did it to compete with other manufacturers, the G3 was & still is better than most 5mp cameras out there.

 

The G2 & G3 had perfect sensor/lens match imho, the G5 isnt all that great.

Is it safe to look through the viewfinder when taking pics of

sunsets? I have a 300mm zoom which I want to use for taking pic of

the sun when its a nice orange colour in the sky. Apart from a small

aperture do I need anything else?

 

Do I also need ND filters? could I damage the sensor in my 10D by

taking pic at full zoom?

 

Any tips/suggestions would be appreciated

 

Regards

Correction:

Sorry, i seem to get the error more when shutter speed is 1/60

I bought used canon EF 50mm F1.8 lens to help me in low light

situations, I get the above error randomly, it sounds like the

shutter isnt closing, It must get stuck near the end. I have to

switch camera off then back on again. it seemed to happy more when

the shutter speed is at 1/60th. I have searched for this error and

its more common with older Sigma lenses. I thought all Canon EF lens

should work fine.

 

Is it the body at fault?

 

Thanks in Advance

thats a relief!! I was paniking then! i thought i just spent all my money on an old model lens!

Jessops in UK (www.Jessops.co.uk) has just increased the cost of this

lens from £379 to £449. I noticed on the description that it's now

F3.5-F4.5 and not 3.5-5.6. I checked canon sites and they still show

the original 3.5-5.6 apertures.

 

They were out of stock so i couldnt check, but the Jessop rep told me

Canon dont update their sites straight away. I'm not sure if my 2

week old lens is at fault or not so i might take it back (see my prev

post)

 

Probably a mistake by Jessops but im curious. Does anyone else know

about this?

 

Thanks

Thanks for all who replied,

 

I will conduct more tests, I was just comparing general images, I was expecting the 28-135 to outperform the 75-300 at similar range. Its the focus im concearned with. This is in normal use tests. I did try the 10D focus test on the 28-135, the point of focus was sharp 90% of the time.

 

I will do proper tests, but I am very happy with the 75-300's performance (75-200 anyway!)

No, definately. The level of sharpness on a focus point is so close sometimes that the focus point is just about sharp, the area behind is clear, i thought that you should get 1/3 of detail sharp infront and 2/3rd at back from focus point. How much will depend on DoF. have i got this right?

Im a newbie, I was happy with the 28-135 lens I bought with my 10D, I

sometimes get some shots slightly soft. i.e on a portrait If i focus

on the eyes the nose is soft yet from the eyes to the ears, the pic

was sharp (looking straight). I thought it was normal as sometimes

the whole face was sharp (used F3.5)

 

I bought a 75-300U mk3 lens and I wasnt expecting anything great from

this but I took about 60 photo's of various subjects and every one of

them has come out as expected with the focus point sharp.

 

Both the camera and the lens is only 3 weeks old, can it be a

possibility that the UIS lens has the tendancy to backfocusing? Has

anyone else had lens that needed adjusting? Can anyone please advise

what course of action I need to take.

 

Regards