dan_beauvais

<p>I own the Nikon 5T and 6T, as well as the Canon 500D. All yield high quality results. <br /><br />The Nikons are long discontinued. The Canon 500D has recently again become available new after being unavailable for a few years.<br /><br />The Nikon 5T and 6T only came in 62mm diameter, while 4T and 5T were only 52mm. The Canon 500D is available in 52, 58, 72, and 77mm thread mounts.</p>

<p>Yep, a Canon 500D will degrade the shot. I wouldn't use a 500D to shoot lens test charts for pixel peepers. But in my experience, it works great for real world photography, and my customers seem happy with the results. Isn't that what's important? I use that or my Nikon non-D AF 105/2.8 macro, and am very happy with both. Consider renting one to test with your conditions.</p>

<p>Consider using a US$150 Canon 500D close-up diopter on a quality long lens you already own. This is a multi-element diopter, not to be confused with the poor quality commonly-found +1, +2, +4 diopters. Performance is very good, and may be all you need.<br />http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/87503-REG/Canon_2824A001_77mm_500D_Close_up_Lens.html<br /><br />Another possibility is extension tubes that support full automation. Many available from the big vendors.<br /><br />Pros and cons to each:<br /><br />500D diopter - Relatively light weight, small physical size, very good quality, no light loss.<br>

Extension tubes - Relatively light weight, larger physical size, no loss of quality, but light loss requiring more exposure.</p>

<p>CamRanger.com - wirelessly use an Android or iOS device as an LCD replacement and as a very capable controller.</p>

<p>Hi Larry, no suggestion for fixing it, but be mindful that an EX+ condition D60 is available at KEH.com for $182, with a 180 day warranty. That puts a cap on anything you chose to do to your daughter's camera.<br /><br />I have no affiliation with KEH except having been well served by them on numerous occasions.</p>

<p>I've found the high ISO performance of my D800 to be very liberating. I've recently enjoyed exploring hand held compositions in crowded dimly lit country stores, places where a tripod would be a nuisance, at best. I used Auto-ISO, capped at 6400. But seeing the results, I'd consider going higher. The noise is remarkably low, seems limited to luminance rather than color noise, and cleans up very easily. This manner of shooting is unthinkable on my D300.</p><div></div>

<p>L-BRACKET FIT WITH A THIRD PARTY VERTICAL GRIP?<br /><br />Do you use an Arca Swiss compatible tripod mount? Or thinking of going this way? If so, I urge you to use an L-bracket so that when you go to a vertical composition, the camera body stays over the center of the tripod head, rather than being flopped to the side and off balance. Really Right Stuff and Kirk make the industry leading L-brackets, and they are custom fit a specific camera body, or body and grip combo. They are machined to the curves in the body and grip so it doesn't rotate. So, if you get a third party grip, will the curves match and an L-bracket fit on it? Does the bracket provide clearance for the battery door? I have asked these questions many times in this forum and others, and nobody has ever answered. So, in this lack of info, I'd save and spend my money on the Nikon grip that I know will work with good L-brackets.<br /><br />REMOVING THE TRIPOD FOOT?<br /><br />Regarding removing the tripod foot on a lens, consider rotating it to a particular place out of the way instead. That way, it is quickly ready next time you wish to mount the lens on a tripod. I find that when I'm holding the camera for a horizontal composition, with my eye to the viewfinder, the tripod foot is most out of the way if I've rotated and locked it at the 2:30 position. It's clear of my left hand. When I rotate the camera counterclockwise to shoot a vertical, right hand now on the duplicate grip controls, the lens foot is now at the 10:30 position, still out of the way of my left hand under the lens.<br /><br />And I agree, the weight of the body and lens combo is supported by your left hand under the lens, palm toward your face. (If your palm is away from your face, or you are reaching over the lens, you are not as steady.) In this position, your right hand is not supporting weight.</p>

<p>1) The D2x has a rated mean shutter life of 200,000 exposures. It's probably got a lot of life left in it.<br /><br />2) KEH.com (a very highly regarded user equipment dealer) has an EX+ condition D200 for US$286. <br /><br />Regards,Dan<br />http://DanBeauvais.com</p>

<p>I am with Craig. Wear these battle scars with pride, be glad it's only cosmetic, and enjoy your camera.</p>

<p>Has anyone tried using a Kirk or Really Right Stuff L-bracket with an off-brand grip? Does the L-bracket snugly fit the contours? Can the battery be changed without removing the bracket?</p>

<p>I find the Nikon straps to be way too short. I use OP/TECH USA neoprene Fashion Straps neoprene straps for my camera bodies, and their neoprene & nylon Pro Straps on my heavier lenses.</p>

<p>Hi Mark, I've been curious about the clone grips, and have several questions.<br /><br />Does the EN-EL4a battery from the D3, with the BL-3 battery door combo fit the clone grip? It's a great combination on the MB-D10, my standard choice.<br /><br />Have you tried it with either the Really Right Stuff or Kirk L-bracket, designed for the MB-D10 on the D300 or D700? I'm curious about the fit of the contours, the alignment of the tripod screw, and whether there is clearance to change the battery in the grip without removing the bracket?</p>

<p>Something I have never seen discussed... has anyone tried using one of the clone vertical grips with a Really Right Stuff or Kirk L-bracket designed for the genuine MB-D10? Does the tripod mount line up? Can you change the grip battery pack without having to remove the L-bracket? Is the L-bracket contoured to fit the contours of the grip?</p>

<p>There's nothing that will replace sitting and working thru the menus. Press the '?' button for a more detailed and helpful explanation of each item. Only then can you determine if this feature will complement or detract from your personal goals.<br>

<br />Good luck!</p>

<p>Dan in Kitty Hawk<br /><br /><a href="http://DanBeauvais.com">DanBeauvais.com</a></p>

 

<p>You're welcome, Frank.</p>

<p>Hi Dave, consider this.... The D800/D800e has a 36 MPixel sensor. Crop away 2/3 of the image, you still have 12 MPixels - which was the rage on the new D3 at the Beijing Olympics. An unsung capability of high MP cameras is the "cropability." So crop rather than use a optically awkward teleconverter.</p>

<p>I suggest you look into if/how it fits with an L-braket from Really Right Stuff or Kirk Enterprises, so you can mount the combo on a quality Arca-Swiss compatible tripod head. We know a Nikon fits and you can access the battery compartment. Don't know about the knock-offs.</p>

 

<p>Has anybody tried one with a Kirk or Really Right Stuff L-bracket?</p>

<p>Doesn't pass my sniff test.</p>

<p>If you get a genuine Nikon grip, you can be sure that an L-bracket from Really Right Stuff or Kirk will fit properly, and that the grip battery will clear the bracket. If you get a third party grip, all bets are off for it working with an L-bracket.</p>

<p>Hi Mike, yep, your selection of less expensive hardware not working. I can't explain why. But I truly believe you! I chose the more expensive route and have not had the trouble you experience. If you can use that data point, GREAT!!!!! If not, I'm cool with that too! Your money, your time, your choice.</p>

<p>Hi Mike,<br>

The AAs aren't genuine Nikon. Similar for the charger for rechargables. These are out of Nikon's control.<br>

I offer a single point of reference. On my single instance of a compliment of completely genuine Nikon equipment, I've had none of the frustrations expressed in this thread. I find substantial value in knowing I can depend on my equipment. This allows me to spend my scarce time making images, rather than fiddling with intermittent gear. Perhaps these forum members have experienced enough frustration with their money-saving experiments that using the full price but dependable offerings may now be more appealing.<br /><br />DanBeauvais.com</p>

<p>I'm using a genuine D300, genuine MB-10, genuine EN-EL4a batteries, and a genuine MH-21 charger. 70k+ actuations, never have had an issue. Dependability is worth the extra money to me.<br /><br />DanBeauvais.com</p>

 

<p>At faster shutter speeds, the shutter curtain does not completely open then close. There are limitations on how fast they can physically move the shutter curtain. Instead, it traces a slit across the frame, with each part of the frame exposed to the appropriate time. Interestingly, while each part is exposed for the proper amount of time, it's not the SAME slice of time across the image. So, the red band indicates that part of the photo that got exposed during the red phase of the lighting cycle.<br>

Somebody noted that the lights go thru the cycle every 1/120 seconds. That's true where the power is 60 Hz. If it's 50 Hz system, it's every 1/100 seconds.<br /><br />Let's assume 60 Hz. The only way to *wholly* avoid the color banding is to use multiples of 1/120 that are at least as long at 1/120 --- 1/120, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4..... Including 1/240 would only get 1/2 the light color cycle - an invitation to color banding.<br /><br />By the way, there are shutter speeds where the entire frame is exposed at once. They are the shutter speeds at or slower than the flash sync speed! If you use flash with a faster shutter speed, the part of frame will be dark because the curtains covered that part when the flash illuminated.<br /><br />DanBeauvais.com</p>

 

<p>Anybody else have examples of how you used these offerings?</p>