j_p12

Clearly, it isn't my day to post coherently.

 

So starting over:

 

The question is for those folks who have had third-party EF mount lenses, that are incompatible with recent Canon bodies (which are basically the digital bodies). Do you hang on to them, assuming you still have/use film bodies on which they work, or do you find you don't use them at all and get rid of them?

 

Of course it is subjective, but interested in what people have eventually done. There may be great reasons to keep them around which I never thought of. The incompatibilities in my case are the lack of firmware updates from Sigma, which seems a common issue for older Sigma lenses.

 

 

Other parts:

 

Yes, type-A/B refers to flash, but I am increasingly hearing it referring (generically) to film vs. digital bodies, or probably more likely, newer vs. older bodies, which have a similar chronology. Since I've been checking on lenses, I also queried Canon as to whether any older Canon lenses have compatibility problems with current bodies, specifically 1D, 5D and 40D bodies. I assumed the answer was no, but never hurts to check. The answer was, as expected, that there shouldn't be any problems with new or old lenses. The gent referred to older bodies as A bodies and newer bodies a B bodies (been with the flash group too long?). In any case, I shall cease the use of the term except when referring to flash.

 

Sorry, shorthand: E3 = EOS 3, E7 = Elan 7 AKA EOS 7 (although the 7 was actually the Elan 7E w/ Date?)

 

So, apologies for the original query, now restated hopefully more clearly and correctly.

 

 

cheers, -jp

I know it is usually a flash reference (B=TTL/ATTL, A=E-TTL/FEL..), but even Canon referred to digital compatible lenses as "A", and non as "B" type when I spoke to them. I assume used as wide generic meaning for non-digital or older units. Yes, it would be incorrect for the E7, E3 etc, so I should retract it for the discussion here.

 

In any case, what I refer to is lenses that will not work with digital bodies. Sigma had some decent lenses, like the 400 APO Macro 77, that they abandoned, as they have a habit of doing.

I have several Sigma lenses (400/77, and some wide angles) that are type-B only

(mostly). When I went digital, I had them factory cleaned thinking I would

keep them as additional backup or when I really wanted film. Yep, that has

happened a lot. I know it is an individual decision, but for folks that have

type-B kit and gone digital, what have you eventually done with it? Cheers -jp

Large lens strap from spare parts. Old Bogen mount with cutouts on the sides. Attached strap runs through short strap I keep on the body and clips into whatever strap pad I want to use. If you use the optech or the like, clip the body tethers together and clip the shoulder strap into the lens tethers. I get a lot of control and it assembles quickly. The small mount works well with a mono pod, but I use a bigger one on more legs. Gaffers strips in handy spots too.<div></div>

Had the same problem on one body - I think it must have been a bad stamp job. Emery cloth cut the width of the strap hole + a tad (technical measurement). Hold body upside down above a shop vac or the like, or work in the ratlines in a stiff breeze :-). Run the emery cloth through the strap opening and into the opening sides to deburr them. Vac keeps those wonderful microscopic flakes from entering the camera. Dap opening lightly with never-dull/wd/etc or something similar since you just took off the protective coating. Best done with two people.

You've got number of options suggested. If you are *not* going to use the remote on the grip, I would solder to the larger solder points, drill/route/cut into the cover plate and run the wires where ever you want, such as out the front or bottom of the grip as has been suggested. Maybe put a connector in the handle so you can pull it apart later. Easy and clean.

 

If you want to try and get the contacts back, you could try a field surgery technique I've used on other equipment (I don't have a grip to see how the contacts are mated for this application--anyone comment?) You need thin double sided tape, cheap electrical tape (thinner the better), tin foil or metalized mylar, good scissors, tweezers, a few strands of really thin wire, small knife or other scraper (aka, sandwich foil, gum off gaffers tape, paper and a swiss army knife). You are going to make a new foil and wire contact that is held in place with the tape and contacts the flexiboard above where it burned out. The plastic cover plate will compress it onto the top an bottom of the contacts--hopefully. It isn't going to last for lots of make/break connections so be gentle.

 

For each contact that needs repair, do:

 

- Scrape the polymer coating off the flexiboard just above where the contact burned out to expose the wire trace. Hold the device so the removed material doesn't enter the body.

 

- Cut a piece of ds tape to the width of the contact and a bit longer than the length of the opening in the cover plate.

 

- Optional but handy: Cut a few strands of wire slightly longer than the tape (strands from multistrand phone or data cable, or your COs ear buds--thin stuff). Mate up one end with the end of the tape and fold the other end over the tape and down the back--this is the part that will be hitting the scraped contact area.

 

- Cut a piece of foil the same width as the tape and the same length as the wire. Lay it over the wire on the tape, with one end matching. This leaves some extra foil to fold over the top of the tape. Foil doesn't take much current (not that the camera does either), so the wires do the work.

 

- You now have a contact. Place it on the burned out flexiboard so that the folded over part contacts the part you scraped and is partly covered by the cover plate (for compression).

 

- I didn't look, but it is probable that the cover plate has a conductive coating on the inside. If that is the case, you should put a strip of electrical tape across the foil contact(s) at the top and bottom where they surpass the opening. This adds height to the area so make sure the grip fits, but would also make it more stable.

 

- The contact area is a fairly static area so, barring thermal or physical shock, the contacts should be pretty stable.

3 of 3 - contacts.<div></div>

One per, sorry, should have done links. 2 of 3<div></div>

I dug up a 650 to check the process I described. You should also back out or remove the screw on the roof of the battery compartment. Taking off the back cover and the cover mounting bracket is really helpful. Under two minutes. Clean work surface. If you want new contacts, you might be able to make some up with thin double sides tape and tin foil--put the connecting wire (if you are using one) between the foil and the tape so the pressure keeps it there--tinfoil is too thin to solder. Personally, I would open a hole into the solder points area and run wires to whatever connection or jack I want to use - you have space in the grip for all sorts of stuff. 3 pics attached I hope.<div></div>

The contacts that got toasted are part of a flexible circuit board that goes down the side and hangs a right just under the screw on the front--AND has eight solder points to the left of the contact opening (hint, hint).

 

The contact part of the flexiboard is exposed. You probably burned away trace and contacts. To the left of the contacts is a ridge that runs down the cover plate--that covers a set of solder points for the flexiboard. Since there isn't much to lose, if you are feeling adventurous and have access to a low-watt fine tip iron (like temp controlled workstation) you could access the solder points just to the left of the contacts. Below is the quick and dirty method I used to mod 650s ages ago--probably the same for the 630--same body.

 

** usual disclaimers apply - you are altering your device at your own risk **

 

To take the plate off that has the opening for the contacts and covers the solder points: remove the screw just below the contacts opening. Remove the two screws on the face of the body just to the right of the cover plate (this gives to some wiggle room). Remove the screw just below the shutter button (upside down) and the screw on the inside of the strap mount (these allow you to lift the top case a bit. I believe that's all the screws to go.

 

I also found it useful to remove the back cover (inside top right is the release) and the metal cover mounting bracket (silver critter with two screws). You will also see the wire traces under there.

 

Starting from the bottom lift out the cover plate. I would get it from the seam at the bottom front. It starts to stick at about 45 degrees. You will need to spring it out of the top, but it goes fairly easily. See that row of pins? Anything left of the flexiboard?

 

- left contact is top pin

 

- centre contact is fifth pin down

 

- right contact is sixth down

 

Be really careful with the heat. If there is anything left of the traces as the come actoss the top of the board, you could scrape the coating off and try soldering there first.

 

If you use thin kapton wire you could route it back to the contacts opening. You could also route one or more wire holes coming out the front or side of the plate you removed--lots of options.

They chipped a macro for me and it works fine with a D5 all the way down to a 650 film body.

A good lawyer is going to start killing credibility and casting doubt by picking out details he knows you won't remember--or aren't visible w/o a blow-up. Adding, subtly, that witnesses often don't recall scenes correctly. It is part of the process and not fun on the receiving end. A crime scene with 10 other witnesses is far better than one shot, by yourself, of an incident at a riot, if you can't prove the authenticity of the image.

 

If we are talking about how a coast line has changed in 10 years, general damage from a hurricane, or, yes the engine was clearly missing from the jet, life is easier. Medical slides?

 

All depends what's at stake and the role the images play. One advantage digital has is you can have N authenticated originals, so when you(rs) accidentally go missing...

 

About those grassy knoll photos?

I am sure you are aware, but its worth noting, that in most cases (depending on profile, what is at stake, roll of the images), if you can't prove the chain of custody and authenticity from the source (camera) to the end (court, analyst, etc), the images can be argued out. Thus, try to document and verify the images from the inception if you can.

If you use a rubber(ized) cap, like the ones that come with some Hoya SHMC filters, cut a 1/4 inch wide piece of gaffers tape and wrap two turns tightly around the outside diameter of the cap. This allows the rubber to grip but keeps it from expanding so much that it falls off. I rewrap twice a year.

 

For plastic caps, used MF caps for a few bucks, I fold one layer of tape up the inside and onto the inner face of the cap--keeps the seam and gum off the edge but provides grip--and also run a band around the outside.

I was making the same decision about a month ago and went with the 100-400. This replaced a Sigma 400 77 APO mac which won't work on the 5D. I have also rented the 400L as needed. Having some gapping below 400mm that I wished to fill in without another lens added to the 100-400 decision. I am nature oriented, btw

 

Consider your other lenses (300+TC?), body type and how you are going to use the beast. That said...

 

My impression so far is positive. I really like the versatility of the zoom and the "relative" compactness of the unit for transport (open to 400, the lens is long and suitable to club a bear if necessary). I can get the lens with the hood reversed into a LowePro Zoom case if I want to keep it at the ready. The IS is very handy when hand held or using a monopod--great for stalking. I got used to the push-pull and lock mechanism fairly quickly.

 

Cons so far: Heavy critter if you need to pack it in, but then I am not carying in several other lenses. Images are not as bright in the viewfinder as I am used to, although I feel part of this has to do with the 5D default focusing screen (?). My only significant gripe is that the lens hood is not integrated and bulky. Aside from the space issue, you need to remove the hood or have long fingers if you want to use a circular polarizer, rather than just pushing the hood back onto the barrel--my biggest gripe. The lens isn't well balanced for a tripod when fully extended. To counter the hood and balance I am going to modify a hood and also mill a multi-point tripod mount so I don't need to haul a heavy head around all the time.

 

I haven't used the lens enough to say that I would never get a 400 prime again (say, well after a 400 IS comes out?), and I haven't shot with the 400L on the same body yet for comparison but I am pleased with the lens so far and have no regrets--and for forking over $1000+ that is important.

 

Definitely read the other threads and rent each if you are still undecided.

Don't know specifics of either device, but the definitive answer will come from emailing Tokina directly to ask: support@thkphoto.com. Give them the serial number or appx purchase date of the lens and the model of the body in question in case there are different firmware versions in release. If it needs a rechip, it will probably be around $100.

For shipping, I screw the rubber feet tight to the base so the spikes can go through a piece of rigid foam and into a 1/4 plywood disk, the disk then sits on 1" of medium foam and 3/4" of hard foam--I figure it must take a lot of impact to break them like that. When hiking the pod, the feet can be in the spike exposed or covered position. The sleeve fractures at bottom lip where it contacts the inside and bottom of the pod leg. The very bottom of the sleeve contacts the threaded plastic nut that keeps the sleeve socketed. The impact on the actual bottom of the sleeve is what probably does it in.<BR>

I was thinking yesterday that a slightly angled impact would give a sleeve that was really tight no wiggle room--whereas a direct impact would transmit through more, so I wonder if my feet are too tight (so to speak). I'd test theories, but I like my pod.

Cokin P164 circ-pol<BR>

Singh-Ray (about double $ the cokin)<BR>

Also thought Lee used to make one.

DN, those are indeed the feet I use. My original set lasted 7 or so years, but the sets in recent years don't seem to hold up. The bottom of the Sleeve fractures and I need to use gaffers tape or heat shrink tubing to keep them around the bolt. I now travel with spares. I was hoping the ones that slip over the feet for other Bogen pods might fit. I will make a trip to hunts with caliper in hand some time soon. I like your in-car tripod solution. - Jim

I have an older 3221 / 055 tripod that uses the spiked feet (055SPK) that slip

inside the leg and you then twist to expand the bolt head against a plastic

sleeve. A plastic sleeve breaks at least once a year through use or shipping

(in a very solid container, too). Sacrificing a foot to save a leg is

worthwhile, but I think the pod can take it and the feet aren't strong enough.

 

I was wondering if the spiked feet that slip over the leg ends on some of the

Bogens would work for the 3221, like the 055SPK2 feet. The tube diameter is

0.80 inches at the end and after a compression dent is 0.79 inches for the rest.

E-mail to Bogen US was unproductive. Has anyone done this?

 

Cheers, -Jim

For the most part, I have read that it is dust in the camera body that folks are concerned about. I perhaps, too subtly noted in the post, that this implies that the rear of the lens vents into the body which didn't make a lot of sense to me unless the rear elements move, thus the request for experiences. I should have more correctly posted dust in the lens barrel or camera body. Thanks for the info. What did Canon hit you up for for cleaning the lens?

I am redoing my kit towards digital (5D) and have the opportunity to rethink

some lenses at telephoto end for traveling landscape/wildlife. I am very

interested in the 100-400 L IS as it packs a lot of range into a nice package.

I top out now at 400 5.6--Sigma 400 APO Macro 77 that the 5D doesn't like and

sigma no longer supports/rechips--so I am happy with the far end, and I'll add a

canon TC. I also gap from 180/200 to 400 unless I use a TC. Thus the 100-400

fits nicely, and I get IS, albeit an older incarnation.

 

I see in the postings that many people are concerned that the push-pull

mechanism will toss lots of dust into the camera which will be especially

noticeable with the digitals. By definition, this means that air can pass

around the rear elements into the body, when the lens is compressed and it just

doesn't pass out, or in, along the zoom seal? Could people who use the lens

comment on their experience regarding dust?

 

Cheers, Jim

On the Pro 1 circular polarizer filters. There is a Pro1 Digital MC (Multi Coated) and a Pro1 Digital S-HMC version. Both are slim and have front threads. In talking with Hoya last week, I found that the Pro1 S-HMC version is now discontinued. The logical replacement for the Pro1 S-HMC is the standard Cir/Pol S-HMC. It is also a slim filter but it lacks front threads. You will need a push-on lens cap, however, my S-HMC circ/pol came with one in the box. Get extras, they wear out. I did not find out how many coatings were on the MC versus the S-HMC because I was mostly interested in getting the hardened outer coating of the S-HMC anyway.