dave_shrader

Response to Jeff Drew...my Mamiya 645 Pro has horizontal as normal

format.

Not ALL 645's are vertical!!

When I managed a C-41 lab we would experience edge to edge 'curling'

during hot humid weather. The negs would come out of the dryer all

pre-curled. I could not use the phenomena as a sales point though.

[ 8-) ].

It is caused by residual entrapped water in the emulsion. Try a good

photo flush before drying.

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As a last resort, just let the film equalize to room conditions before

printing.

I have over 1 million miles of air travel in a 40 year engineering

career.

I take cameras wherever I go.

Generally, I use a Nikon System with 6 lenses.

(Ocassionally I carry a Mamiya 645 PRO System with 3 lenses, several

backs and flashes).

I carry the cameras in a solid case (Halliburton or equivalent with

foam dividers) and I carry it in my carry on luggage.

The airlines will not insure for the full replacement value if lost or

damaged.

Also, there is a delay in placing a claim and receiving any funds.

Note: the foam type cases help dampen (reduce) the vibration into the

cameras.

This is my second post to this subject. It is prompted by a comment I read and used to repeatedly state: "A camera is a tool. It is part of a system for making images."

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We need the proper tool for the job. You don't build a house with a tack hammer!

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Discussing 'tools' and 'techniques' is the beginning of learning. It is the Apprentice Stage of image making.

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Discussions on refining techniques, e.g. getting depth of field intuitively, seeing color balance, seeing composition, knowing the extent of required 'fill flash' and how to do it with either a focal plane or in the lens shutter, knowledge of studio lighting etc is the 'intermediate stage' the licensed plumber.

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Creating highly satisfactory images for you peers and superiors to

W O W over is the 'Master' plumber.

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Finally, Ansel Adams technique is the 'virtuoso'.

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So, as I read this group and RCPMF, and I've read them for almost 2 1/2 years, I see the progression in photographic maturity among those present. I don't see any reason to shoot down technical or equipment discussions just put them in context.

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For myself, I hope I'm a Master. I know I'm not virtuoso

Very interesting question, thanks for asking it.

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As an engineer of 35 years experience I tend to be technical.

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As an ordained clergyman of 10 years I tend to seek the beauty in creation.

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As a 'Grampy' I see both beauty and technical excellence in photographing my grandchildren.

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As a photographer for 45 years I am constantly amazed at the beauty of a sun rise or sunset.

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Mostly, my personal photoggraphy is focused on the wonder of creation, created reality.

In normal print sizes, 3 1/2 X 5 or 4 X 6 the difference is barely discernable. I can see it because I look for it. The benefit of MF is in making larger prints you get less enlargement of the grain. Therefore "better" looking pictures.

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Rent a camera and see for yourself. I use both a full Nikon 35mm setup from 24 to 400 mm and also a Mamiya 645 Pro with 80 and 150 lenses. Th eenlargements from the 645 project a better image at close viewing distances.

I use both!! I use a Mamiya 645PRO with the metered prism and with a waist level finder. The prism meter is a typical 18% grey scale calibration i.e. average reflectance from average subjects. It gets fooled by very bright subjects (wedding cake) and very dark subjects (African American in black tuxedo (Groom)). So you have to know your subject and it's general reflectance to get an exposure compensation. If you can spot meter and are familiar with the Zone exposure system, the reflected meter will give excellent results.

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The incident meter gives 'good' results all the time because it forces a grey scale exposure.(it ignores reflectance of subject). But I still compensate for highlights or shadows (Zone system exposure).

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I would strongly suggest you go to your libraryand read on the Zone system. There was an excellent series in Shutterbug Magazine in the last year on Zone System. Once you are familiar with the exposure corrections for your film and brightness range either meter will work fine..