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curt_kalkstein1

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Posts posted by curt_kalkstein1

  1. I have a couple of twist-flex sports backgrounds that I've used for several years. I'd like to update the look, but I can't find a place that offers these - not even the company (Backdrop Outlet) that I bought them from about seven years ago.

    Do you know a place where I can find any? I use the backdrops mostly for soccer, but because I occasionally photograph other sessions, I'd like something general - like a locker room scene.

  2. I found this device a couple of weeks ago thinking it would be a great solution to the delay that sometimes occurs in accessing and showing images at events. In the limited tests I've given it, it works well, and certainly does that.

    However, the images will appear only on the computer screen - not on the camera's LCD. I find that a little distressing because I trust my eye for focus, lighting and composition more than anyone else's - as I'm sure most photographers do. The issue is that nothing will show on the LCD if a USB cord is plugged in. If I decide to keep and use it, that burden is now placed on my assistant.

    My long-winded preface is to ask if anyone else uses this, and whether there's a way to work around it. Nikon itself says no - not just with the model I have (D700), but ALL Nikon bodies.

  3. <p>A DC 105 or 135, Mark? I must confess I'm not familiar with those. But, wouldn't I always want maximum sharpness, or are you referring to background sharpness/bokeh? Can you give me a brief summary on those, please?</p>

     

  4. <p>Thank you, Wouter.<br>

    I assume I'll use the 1.4 (or 1.8) very often - inside and out - especially in the studio, but as I said, it's my increased interest in night photography that has me searching.<br>

    What about the issue of even being able to get my subjects sharp at such a low f/stop? I've been practicing by shooting as much as possible at 2.8. The margin of error is pretty slim. I saw another Photo.net comment elsewhere from someone who pointed out that while you might get the eyes very sharp, the person's nose might be blurry. Is that a common problem?</p>

  5. <p>Will you please give me some advice?<br>

    I'm considering buying a used 1.4 85 mm lens because I like doing night photography of people - individuals more than groups. How big a help is that extra (half?) stop from 1.8? Does the image also appear brighter in the viewfinder to allow an easier time of focusing? I've noticed previously that a picture I take at a given f/stop with my Nikon 80-200 mm f/2.8 turns out brighter than one I've taken with my Tamron f/2.8 28-105 done at the same f/stop. Will I get the same advantage with a 1.4? Will it be even more than I might get from the 1.8? <br>

    I use a D700 Nikon. How much better will a Nikon or Zeiss serve me than some other?<br>

    I focus manually, so a manual focus lens is just fine. Also, how difficult is it to get a person in focus if I ever have to stop down so low?</p>

  6. <p>Would it help if you went over all the terms of the wedding about a week before? I imagine you collect your final payment at about this time anyway. And, while going over their last minute check list, it's nice for them to hear from you at about that time just for the peace of mind.</p>
  7. <p>I'd like to get some recommendations, please, on excellent software that will allow me to make school composites. A template is fine, but it can't be limited to a specific number of photo openings.<br>

    Of course cost is a factor, but I'm very concerned about ease/speed of use and the quality of the finished product.<br>

    Feel free to contact me here or at spectrumphotography@photocurt.com</p>

    <p> </p>

  8. <p>Thanks for the detailed answer, Joe. <br /><br /><br>

    I might have been unclear about what I meant about fill flash. It seems that when bouncing the 54MZ-3, there's a second light that will fill in. I'm sure you've tried bounce flash for the soft look, only to get a slight shadowing of the eyes. So, that's the feature I'm referring to on this Metz.</p>

  9. <p>I'm getting conflicting information on whether this is compatible with my Nikon D700. Can I get a definitive word here? Also, if this is not compatible, can you tell me what non-dedicated flashes are that offer fill flash and a lot of power?</p>
  10. <p>The fact that you're hesitating is good because while I support you in your encouragement of your son's talent, there will be some situations where his presence just won't fly. <br>

    Giving him a prominent role without the client's prior approval could backfire simply because it gives that client something to latch on to if something goes wrong: "Of course those pictures didn't turn out; you had a grade school kid taking them!" Your son might have had nothing to do with any one particular unacceptable situation, but he'll become the whipping boy nonetheless. <br>

    And, even with client approval, a 12-year-old might not be ready - as has been suggested here - to handle the fallout if something does go wrong.<br>

    I do think he can still accompany you and play a reduced role that includes shooting, but not to the extent that people are whispering and pointing.</p>

     

  11. <p>First, congratulations! If you're making at least 200 prints, you're also making a lot of money!<br>

    I don't know anything about the Kodak 6850, but having done on-site printing for a couple of years, I have some insights that I hope will help.<br>

    It is FAR better to have your camera tethered (wirelessly, preferably) to the computer than to swap camera cards with your assistant all night. Having people at the event all day is a benefit that doesn't make tethering necessary, but it's still a big advantage. Some people might have to leave for one reason or another. Also, this allows a second cycle of buying to take place: "oh, I didn't think it would turn out so nicely; may I have two more?"<br>

    Some printers don't need to be connected to computers to make the photograph; some do. I think those that don't need a computer cost more. And, one of the printers I use send the paper out in final form - no cutting necessary. The other makes 8x10 sheets. This allows you to sell two 5x7s and/or eight wallet-sized pictures.<br>

    That gets me to the next point. Even though people are supposed to be there all day, there'll be that one person who needs the picture right away. My favoured printer sends 5x7s out about 12 seconds after hitting the "print" button. It would be great if your model performs that quickly.<br>

    The software for your computer to recognize the printer should come with the printer. <br>

    Make sure you have nice presentation folios/folders to put the prints in. Make sure, if possible, you have labels that you can slap on to the folio/folder AND to the back of the print. <br>

    As a long-time professional, you realize the importance of having backup equipment. Make sure you have extra cords. The printers I've used have been very reliable, so if anything derails you, it'll be something simple like that that will make you slap your forehead real hard. Make sure you know how to install ribbons and paper, and make sure you know how to clear paper jams. The few times my machine stopped working was because slivers of paper accumulated.<br>

    Test the printer before you take it out. My experience is that I have to lighten in Photoshop anything I see on my screen, otherwise it prints dark. I, however, don't have my screen calibrated. Still, take into account density, as well as colour; you might need to adjust for that.</p>

  12. <p>I'm between Paul's and William's thoughts. If they don't like your style now, they won't like it when they see what you've done for them. If you try to alter your style, it's possible you'll get something that neither they nor you will like. Perhaps you're adaptable and you can veer in a bit of direction. If you're confident in that, then ease the groom's fears and change your mindset about the wedding.<br>

    if you're in a position of power: you have the retainer, the contract is signed, you've got other events to bring in revenue, I suggest telling them something like: "I respect your concerns, but please understand that this is how I photograph. Every artist approaches things at least slightly differently, and in some regards, there is no right or wrong way. I assure you, though, that these off-center pictures are not mistakes; they conform to an artistic principle called the rule of thirds, which makes pictures more interesting when followed. They also help convey more of the environment you're going to great trouble and expense to create on your wedding day. I want to assure you that this will not the dominant look of the pictures from your wedding day, but there will be a representative sample of them - perhaps 30 or 40 out of 500. Still, if you're not happy with that, then I'll be glad to offer you half of your retainer, and you'll still have time to find someone else. I wish you well".<br>

    This shows you're being true to yourself, but also very aware of their perspective. </p>

  13. <p>It sounds like you've extended yourself waaaaaaaaay more than enough. If she winds up using Facebook as a venue, as some do, I don't think you have to worry about backlash - as long as she tells the truth. I bring that up just to make sure you're prepared for it.<br>

    It also sounds like you have your bases covered legally, so if you need to use the court system for this, you should win (how long it takes to get the money might not make it feel that way).<br>

    I'd vary things a little from what E Rin suggested. I think it IS a good idea to write her a letter, but I don't think you should include anything about how her lack of timely payment has affected you. That's appropriate for something more casual like a conversation. I'd limit the content of the letter to the facts and legalities: We entered into a contract that stipulates 1, 2, 3; MM Photography has upheld its obligation by doing A, B, C. After that, I'd get firm, but not threatening - this time. I'd conclude with something like, "please have this paid in full by no later than..." If that date comes without payment, I think the next letter notifies her of likely court action.</p>

  14. <p>You should first find out from her what comments others are making. If possible, ask her to do this in a letter/text/e-mail (just so it's an emotionally detached list that offers no interaction). Once you know the concerns, meet with her face-to-face to rebut each of those points and to emphasize how much she liked what she has already seen - the true measure of her likely opinion of the wedding day pictures.<br>

    Two other big issues, though, are: 1. How much was the retainer (I hope your contract specifies that word instead of "deposit") she paid? Could you extend yourself and give back half? If you're a busy photographer, it's likely you'll pick up a wedding on that day anyway; 2. If the woman's confidence in you is irreconcilably shaken, your chance of wedding day success - in here eyes - is slim, no matter how good the pictures actually are, and no matter how many of us on this forum praise them - her perception just might be hopelessly skewed. So, it might be to your advantage to move on.</p>

     

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