Poravich

Does anyone know whether Leica CL 1973 film camera can be using on 35 (KOB) and 50 mm (Rigid) Summicron. i’d now prefer to take a small camera than M. Mine appears in the viewfinder using 40 and 50 mm frame line. i can take it along with a wider 35 mm Cron but don’t know whether the rangerfinder in CL will be acculate on 35 and 50 Cron or not. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

<p>Dear Emily,<br>

I currently have several Rolleiflex. They are good for street and also fine art, but not perfectly suitable for wide-angle object. in other words, they are not a system camera. Hassy make this job better but you'd get only 6x6 but pay your $ more than you'd expect as a student. There is an alternative!<br>

last year, I sold my hassy for a Summicron 90f2.0. hoping that Leica M will be my better system on a travel. That is my wrong idea! and it was not the end of my purchase. Not until have I found the independable Mamiya Super23, I did stop my landsape gear. What you mostly need on quick travel for fine art photography is NOT a SLR system, but the rangefinder or viewcamera or even a good MF folder. In reality, f1,4-f2,8 shall not provide you a good landscape. Therefore, no need to consider SLR for your scheme. You'd better consider leaf shutter which'd render vibration free between 1/8 - 1/60 while MF SLR can not deal with this shortcoming. You may only need a monopod at your evening scenic.<br>

Mamiya Super23 or the Press system has its 100f2,8 as its best normal lenses and 50f6,3 Biogon clone of extrawide. (24mm eqiv to 135 mm perhaps) It had a freshnel ground glass for your better composing, plus a shift-and-tilt swing back which helps you make your fine art more pleasable. The system shall not cost you much $.<br>

For many year of my photography, I switch myself from SLR to carry a leaf shutter camera (if not of my bw works with M3). It is the leaf shutter- the same craftmanship you'd find in large format. After I end this thread, I will walk across the street to bring my newcoming 65f6,3 after sending it a week for overhaul. The 6x9 will be my next choice instead of 6x6 of the great Rollei.<br>

Happy shooting!<br>

Poravich</p>

Thanks a lot Keith & Jeff. I will finish the first roll soon.

Pat

Dear all,

 

I almost loss my Nikon gear when trading them to EOS and Leica M system, just

leaving only blk Nikkormat body. Now I bouhgt a near mint 135f2,8 Kogaku period

(1965). The first roll has not finished yet. Just really want to know any

experience on this glass from your eyes here.

 

Very appreaciate for all reply.

Still loving Nikon glass - don't blame me.

 

Pat

Vic,

 

Yes, it is tolly emotional decision. Now I have M3, M4-p (Mt Everest). I used to have M6 ttl chrome but lost it. I don't care the ttl falsh. Even the meter in M6 does not mean anything to me.

 

Thanks a lot

 

Poravich

Dear friends,

 

Now I have a call from my wife, now being on tour at Dubai. I have only 1/2

hour to make this decision.

 

She offers me an M6ttl blk boxed mint. But I perfer a classic one. However I'm

afraid that a mint M6 classic may hard to find.

 

In sum, would I go with ttl or classic M6in a long term posession.

 

Thanks all,

 

Poravich

Dear all,

 

I know you guys at Photo.net probably have and use a bunch of Leica gear for

your antire purpose of photography.

 

I'm just curious if you guys have to have ONLY one M body and one lense, which

M will you posses and what version of such lense. Considering your emotion to

your gear as well.

 

Best shooting :)

Pat

Dear all,

 

I just have a chance to get a mint Rollei 40mmf2,8 HFT Sonnar w/ M mount. It's

quite easy to shoot w/ my M4-P with M4's 50mm frame. However I'm trying to use

this 40mm with my M3's 50mm frame of which I try to keep my eye opened more..

out of its normal 50mm's frame line.

 

I've not finished my first roll yet. My question is: Does the M3's full

viewfinder fit enough to use this? A little paralax doesn't bother me.

 

BTW, I wonder has anyone here been using Leica 40mm as as a normal lense. I

like this length that much!

 

Thanks for all kind responses,

Pat

Colin, Thanks for much details. Have you ever has a chance to use the 1st MP model? Yes, it's rare.

Hi all,

 

Using and owning Leica M6 years ago, now I just recently switch to M3 for my

personal reason over its build & smooth quality (s/n 1,xxx,xxx). I usually

shoot bw on 50mm/2.0 Leitz lens and seldom use the light meter. So, the meter

in M6 is nothing for me.

 

I've just been wondering whether Leitz/Leica has ever made a better build

qulaity body on its other M model, e.g. the 1st or last MP, of which I never

ever has a chance to use it.

 

Thank for all kind response,

 

Pat<div></div>

Hi all,

 

Today I just purchased an M3 body to fit my 1954 50/2,0 Summicron. Though I've

always used M6 for years but guessed something was missing in that new M body.

Irresitable to its prominent reputation on its mechanic and classical feeing,

I decided to go on with this M series. I love it! Now, I don't have to worry

of my losing battery cap in the M camera.

 

Have a great shooting,

 

Pat

Taken with 80 mm Yashinon

Take with my Yashica Mat

Gary,

 

I do have the B - it is one of the most rarity. Just keeping it as my TLR collection. You may see this pic- just scoll down~

 

http://poravich.bravehost.com/Classic6x6MF.html

 

The lens I have isn't that clear. Knob advance seem more durable than the lever found in Y Mat. Yashikor argueably stay under par compared to Yashinon.

 

If you purpose is a classic work - not that sharp, it deliver good result!

Beware of the shutter lever in front of the lens- it is fragile and sentitive to be broken. I did have that problem with my Y 12

 

Over all, well worth to own.

Pat

Dear All,

 

I just purchased Minolta SRT101 fitted with its MC Rokkor 58/1,4- PF. Does

anyone here have an experience with this optics. I have not tested it, but

believe this lens perhaps produce good result for bw. What "PF" stand for?

 

BTW, both comes together like a cobination. Was it a original set when first

sold on the market.

 

Thanks to all posts,

 

Pat

LF,

 

I purchased my M6TTL 0.58 several years ago, and have to say that I wouldn't buy it provided that I could change my mind on that Leica counter. Also, I once used, but not own M7 and feel the same experience.

 

If you can read the light by your eyes, you'll love the way that you don't want any ELECTRIC system in your M anymore and that will prolong your M body as well.

 

If you can't meter the light by you eyes, I still suggest you need some pratice cos it will reward you finally.

 

Couple of times, I dropped my M6's battery cap out of the M body. One of that time, I did it on a street in Hanoi, Vietnam.

 

Now, I'm quite in the same situation as yours. Now I'm looking for another good classic M bodies, thought to be M3 or MP or BOTH, depending on whether you want it used or new item.

 

Lens, my wish lists are 35/2, 50/2 and 90/2. My question is that I still doubt for the classic style between old glass or new glass.

 

Have a good light!

Pat

Dear all,

 

I'm just considering 50/2 Summicron for my upcoming M3, but wondering to

choose between an old or new verion(say 50s or 80s or 90s)for my BW works.

I've heard that the first version of Summicron were made of rare earth glass

and produce delightful BW.

 

I also consider the LTM lenses to my M3 kit provided taht they are better for

my BW. (I currently own 50/2,8 Elmar LTM.)

 

Collapsible or Rigid Summicron; which one is the better glass?

 

BTW, I'm quite both user and a collector though.

 

Thanks to all responses,

Pat

PS. Does anybody know how long 4x5 sheet film will be available for us?Currently, it is hardly to find importer of such thing in Thailand.<div></div>

Dear All,

 

I have unintentionally step in LF by purchasing a mint Schneider APO 210/5,6

Copal 1. with my hope to use big neg in the near future.

 

Now, I just find that there are some of this following beasts available here

in Bangkok;

 

1. Linhof Kardan E (condition 8+/10) with the same optic (8/10)as I own and a

modified board

= US$ 700

 

2. Sinar F1 (condition 8/10)with (8+) 3 Schneider lenses;

240/5.6 Copal 3, 90/5.6 Copal 0 and 180/5.6

All come with orginal Schneider board and metal case

= US$ 2,250

 

3. Sinar P2 (condition 10/10 in original blk platic box)with 2 Rodenstock

standard lenses made for Sinar - tele and wide. (I don't remember the size)

= US$3,500

 

 

IMO, all price could be NEGOTIABLE to some extent with the seller. (about 20%

perhaps)

 

 

Question:

 

1. Which one is the most reasonable? (My type is landscape, portrait, family,

no architecture!)OR if you think none of them is interesting, please provide

others.

 

2. I'm kinda moveable man. So flat bed is still in my consideration, but

hardly to find good one. I know P2 is kinda studio usage, but that will

perhaps fit my next plan to build up a studio in my house.

 

3. I'm not in a hurry to buy one now. Just considering whether should I buy

the best to last, OR just get use to the cheaper, then move to the bigger?

(Actually, I don't want to trade things that much)

 

Sorry if I confused my above questions.

 

Thanks to all of your kind assistant!

 

Best regards,

Pat<div></div>

CPeter,

 

Could you show me your old picture taken by the speed graphic as well as yourself pic when holding that beast with the big flashbulbs in 1950s? I'd love to see.

 

About Leica, If you have to own just ONE M body, what model would you prefer? and

Leitz optics: which one would you recommend me to buy?

 

Thanks in advance,

Pat

Brian Shaw,

 

>> "Buy a decent 150 for the Hassy. Use the rest of the money to take your wife on a nice vacation. Buy her lots of trinkets and toys. Treat her right and keep her happy. In the long run you'll get much more satisfaction from a happy wife than any photo equipment you buy."

 

Thanks Brian, simply short answer but those are words of wisdom! Would you also consider 250 mm, or 150 just works fine? Actuallly, I like its 150's small size.

 

Pat

CPeter Jørgensen

 

Thanks for you kind advice. SWC is still interests me always. It'd reminds me when I use 21 mm Biogon Contax G in Quibec years ago. So, if I'm looking for a classic SWC, which one to buy?

 

It's interesting that you own many of LTM and M bodies, cos that is one of my plan to restart my Leica system again. BTW, Which one is your most preferable M?

 

Personally, I like to look old BW pictures taken by photo journalists in 50-60s. In your past career, how did you use M for your newspaper- Did you bring it together with your other SLR, or it is just your stand alone camera?

 

Thanks again for the nice response.

 

Pat

Dear all,

 

Thanks for your kind reply. I really mean 25K.

However, I'm a die hard fan of classic cameras. So, I'm sorry to reject any of the new age DSLR.

 

Data back? Umm, not this time.

 

My type?

Quite simple; candid, protriat, landscape (outdoor- almost)

 

>> CPeter Jørgensen, thanks for the SWC, that's one of my choice but I do like ground glass to compose for MF.

 

>> Lee Hamiel, I don't have a baby now. But I hope to photograph my new born baby with BW in my own studio. This idea still interests me.

 

Does anybody mention about Leica M??? Any leica collectors among you guys? I used to have M6 TTL, but it's gone for a while, together with the G2 setup.

 

Should I restart the M system again? Now, I use Elmar LTM.

 

Pat<div></div>

If you wife allow you to buy a nice classic camera by not exceeding than

$25,000 USD which type and format would you guys gonna buy? Seriously.

Considering when you already have Hassy setup - only 80mm and 50mm.

 

Well, I don't expect things like BMW, Rolex and the likes, but a small studio

in the house is quite interesting.

 

Pat<div></div>

Rob, do you usually use LTM for quick street or quick movement subject , and use TLR of more specific purpose? Or use them for both reason? I just eager to learn for more experience. Thanks.

 

Carlos, I've seen your site - excellent BW works. I like the buliding with white cloud. :)

 

Pat