martin_k1

Recently I've got a used 501CM set and surely I am very excited, especially

about the '3D'-viewfinder. But I have big problems to get the subject

(portraits) in focus as there is no split-screen device to support focusing.

Are there any tips of tricks to achieve accurate focus?

Thanks,

Martin

When I came home tonight, I found that my apartment has been visited by a

burglar. Amongst other things, my 70-200 2.8 IS was stolen.

Now I'd like to know, whether there is something like a database, where I can

register a stolen lens? I guess, the lens will soon be sold on Ebay....

I think it is interesting, that this lens was the only photographic equipment

that was taken away. Not the 17-50, not the 100 Macro, not the EOS 1VHS body.

That lens must really catch the attention because of its size and colour....

Martin

In case you have not found this site yet, there are free lens hoods

available at:

www.lenshoods.co.uk

:)

You can also try to mount the 50mm in reverse on top of your 85 mm. this should give you the largest magnification without the loss of any light (as it occurs with extension tubes)

For more information on this, look up http://www.mplonsky.com/photo/article.htm#rev

My studio flashes have an optical trigger and I use the popup flash covered with black slide film to trigger them. That is a very cheap and convenient solution, no cables involved at all.

Hi-speed sync is a function of the flash, not the camera. I doubt that studio flashes are capable of this.

I have an old MF lens for my Olympus OM-2n with a quite big chip in the front element. After painting the chip in black I could not see any effect on image quality.

A brand new 50/1.4 is now 295 USD after rebate at B&H. 205 for a chipped lens seams too high to me.

Thanks!

It worked fine. I have my shooting modes back.

Unfortunately the manual is manual is very quite about the personal functions. And I still do not understand, why one has to purchase an additional software and cable to use all functions of the camera....

Thanks to the digital revolution I was able to get one of the best AF

cameras ever made for a bargain! I just hope, that film supply and

development remain availabe and affordable over the next decades!

But I have a little problem: It seems that a previous owner has set

some personal functions (e.g. eliminating 2 shooting modes).

Unfortunately the camera came without the EOS link software. Is there

any way to reset the personal functions to the factory defaults

without the software?

Thanks,

Martin

This may be a dumb question: I soon will have the opportunity to shoot

in a studio set up with 2 Hensel Integra 500 studio flashes. They are

equipped with an optical slave trigger. Is there an easy way to use

these lights with my EOS 30? Do I need to get a flashmeter? Do I need

a hotshoe adapter to attach a trigger cable to the camera?

Any advice is appreciated as I have never used lights like these before!

Vignetting should be no problem. With one filter (but no adapter ring) I never got it. It's a 100mm 2.8 lens and you would never shoot wide open for macro.

For jammed filters, my advice is to press the lens with the jammed filter against a mouse pad and then turn the lens. This applies a uniform force to release the filter.

Let me add, that you can stick the MR-14 on a 100/2.8 with filter. It won't snap in and it comes off easily. The four snap-in springs press against the filter and this somehow holds the flash.

I use it like this in situations where I do not want to remove the protective UV-filter.

You are correct. The snap-on mechanism of the MR-14EX does not allow for a filter in front of the lens. It won't fit anymore.

The Macrolite adapter is screwed on a lens like a filter to provide the support of the snap-on mechanism. This allows you to use filter.

The Elan 7 has an infrared LED frame counter. This LED makes some fog in the right corner, but nothing really serious. You cannot switch this LED off.

Don't worry about the metering.

I should add that the new Canon Extension tubes report the correct distance information used in E-TTL2. The Kenko tubes will report the wrong distance information.

But this is the only handicap.

Any Extension tube will fit EF-S lenses.

It is the other way around: Using an extension tube, you can fit an EF-S lens on a regular EOS body, not just 300D and 20D.

I have the Kenko set. best value for a good price.

Keep in mind, that the 70-200 2.8 zooms are huge and heavy. not like a small prime lens or a little EFS zoom. It is almost impossible for me to carry the camera with the 70-200 2.8 around the neck for more than 1/2 hour.

If you can handle the weight, get the Canon 70-200 IS.

If you are on a budget but want a 2.8, get the Sigma

If you are on a budget and want image quality plus light weight, get the Canon 70-200 F4.

The Canon USA warranty says that the product has to be purchased AND used in the US or Canada. So they might refuse to honour the warranty if you mail it directly from Europe to Canon USA for repair.

You can find a 20D for 1,343 ? in Austria, including 20% VAT. That is 1,455 USD w/o sales tax and less than B&H charges (1,500 USD). Check out www.geizhals.at