john in cincinnati

Nice shot! What did you use?

<p>I purchased one yesterday at a local camera shop in downtown Cincinnati. Here's a few pictures I snapped last night:<br><br>

<img src="http://home.fuse.net/jma/d2c_2920.jpg"><br><br>

<img src="http://home.fuse.net/jma/d2c_2929.jpg"><br><br>

<img src="http://home.fuse.net/jma/d2c_2940.jpg"><br><br>

<img src="http://home.fuse.net/jma/d2c_2947.jpg"><br><br>

I too considered the Tokina 12-24 f/4, and I think between the Nikon and the Tokina, it's a "no brainer" due to the cost. I don't think the extra $450 for the Nikon is worth it. Also, don't count out the Sigma 10-20 f/4.5-5.6. Between the Sigma and the Tokina, I liked liked the extra 2mm on the wide end, and also the HSM focusing motor. Tokina has a screw drive. Of course you have the extra stop advantage with the Tokina.

Yes, you can easily change the file numbering to pick-up where the D100 left off, if you want to use the same numbering system.

 

1. Take a picture on the D200

2. Put the CF card in your reader and locate the file

3. Change the file name to the last number for which you have a picture, e.g., DSC_7600

4. Insert the CF card back into your D200, then take another picture.

5. The file name for the new picture will be xxx_7601.

Welcome back to Nikon David. I'm curious why you aren't considering the Canon 5d with its full frame sensor? Regardless, I have a D200, and you will love the camera. It's a great choice. Anyway back to your question. Starting from scratch:

 

Nikon 12-24 f/4 DX, or the Tokina 12-24 f/4 (if on a budget)

 

Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 DX (if weight is not an issue for you) OR the 18-70 Kit lens, which is very nice, but for your style, there may be too much distortion with buildings.

 

Nikon 105 f/2.8 macro (either the old or new).

 

Primes? I really can't make any recommendations there. Finally, the 18-200 VR lens seems really "hot" now, but personally, it doesn't interest me.

 

Good luck with your transition.

 

John

Mariemont, OH

Consider a MACK warranty. It is less than half the cost of the BB and Nikon ESCs. I purchased one with a D200 and am glad I did, as it will extend the warranty for 3 years after Nikon's expires, giving me a total of 4 years of protection. I realize that extended warranties generally aren't needed as most problems will happen within the first year. I rarely purchase extended warranties, but with an expensive digital camera, if you can get one cheap enough, I think it's not a bad idea. The MACK warranty on my D200 gives me peace of mind, and it costs me only about $25 per year for the extra protection. However, probably the most appealing aspect of MACK is that the warranty is transferable for a nominal fee. If you want to sell your camera, this will help with the resale. I would not buy either BB's or Nikon's ESC b/c with it you're also buying a service contract so you can bring it in and they'll "service" it for free. I don't think you're getting any added value there.

 

John

Mariemont, OH

Don't go buy the SB800flash yet! I've been using my SB-80dx on my D200 with great results. You have to shoot in flash Automatic and in camera Aperture Priority. For indoors, I've been bouncing with the diffusion dome and opening up about 2/3rds of a stop. Take a few test shots and experiment with it. Also, the flash will work in Manual wireless. Also works with slow, rear, and red-eye on the camera. Eventually, I will get the SB-800, but I don't want to burn a hole in my budget yet. Also, I wouldn't recommend the SB-600 as it it takes the smaller (more expensive) batteries.

DW-31 6x Magnification Finder for the F5. Saw it at a camera swap at a price I couldn't refuse. It's a lot of fun to use.

Get an antistatic brush. Remove the finder screen and gently brush it off. Also gently brush dust off of the mirror (some may disagree) but I do it all the time with my F5, just be careful. I find that you can satisfactorily remove most of the dust, specs, and etc..., but you wont be able to remove all of it.

I have the MC-33 cord and the SoftTalk software which I use with the F5. The cord and SoftTalk will work with your N90. The software will identify the roll number in the camera. I also think that the N90 roll counter is turned on at the factory. This is different than the F100 where you have to turn the counter on with your software, hence you couldn't tell how many rolls have gone through a used F100 unless the counter was turned on.

 

A friend of mine has an N90 and we plugged it into my computer using the MC-33 cord. I recall, though it has been some time ago, that we were able to determine how many rolls he had shot through his N90 which he had owned for a long time. Thus, if you have a friend with the MC-33 and ST software you should be able to find out the number of rolls your new N90 has shot.

<p><i>I'm not experienced enough to have an opinion about the performance of the various lenses.</i></p>

<p>For any lens just say the following to sound like a pro!:<br><br>

"Sharp in the center when stopped down two or three stops."<br><Br>

"A little soft around the edges."<br><Br>

"Some barrel distortion at the wide end."<br><Br>

"Some pincushion distrotion at the long end."<br><Br>

Dwane,

I live in Cincinnati, Ohio. There is a small local repair shop that did an absolutely fantastic job fixing a 35-70 f/2.8 AFD lens for me that someone had seriously abused. I'm sure they could give you an estimate to repair your lens, but you'll probably have to send it to them in Cincinnati for an estimate. They'll email you an estimate. Based on my experience, I would not hesitate to entrust them with any Nikon repair, and their prices are very reasonable. I have no affiliation with the shop other than the repair of my lens. The owner's name is Tim. Their website is <a href="http://www.camtron.com">www.camtron.com</a>.

Brian, Wow, that is a gorgeous picture! I like it. If I had one criticism, it's that Dad's thumb has been cut off. I couldn't pull-up the other one, sorry.

I agree with Paul's comments above. The 28-105 is in a class all by itself, over and above the 28-200. A friend of mine owns the new Nikon 28-200. Based solely on its quality and build, this lens (28-200) is way over priced. Don't spend that kind of money on a lens with a plastic mount. If you're looking for a lens with this focal length (28-200) consider the latest Tamron 28-200 lens, which has a metal mount. The Tamron 28-200 is the only third-party lens I own, and price-to-value, it's a great lens. Anyway getting back to the 28-105, you can't go wrong with this lens. It takes very sharp pictures with very little if any noticable distortion. With any of these lenses, however, the AF will be relatively slow with the N65. If you're looking for a quicker AF, then you may want to consider Nikon's 24-85 AFSG lens, which has a great reputation, though I've never used it.

I'm surprised about the flare problems some have encountered with this lens. My advice, spend the extra money and get the L37C. I've always used the Nikon L37C filter with this lens together with the hood, and have not encountered any flare problems. I've also used the lens with a polarizer, no hood, and have not had any flare. BTW, the Nikon polarizer works fine all at all focal lengths wide open, provided you don't stack filters. Any stacking, will cause vignetting. Finally, I would not recommend going without protection with this lens even with the hood attached. This lens is a lot of fun to use, enjoy!

I went to the Nikon School in Cincinnati, about 4 years ago. The instructors were very entertaining and knew their stuff. The slide shows were great, and I picked up a few tips. You will be inspired. Also, the lunch is good, and you'll be around a bunch of Nikon fans. I would recommend it without hesitation. Enjoy.

I was in the same situation a earlier this year. I believe you can find it at B&H but for a steep price, at least you could a few months ago. Also, copies are regularly available on eBay if you watch the auctions. I also called Nikon USA and was informed that they are no longer supporting the software. I guess this means that they will not be releasing any updates. This steered me away from PS. I purchased SoftTalk2000 which is what I would recommend. It costs about $45. Nice feature is that you can use it with an F100 or N90, if you have either of these cameras. You'll need to get the MC-33 cable, which I found used on this website. Also, I think there is a "home-job" version you can purchase on the net as well. Good luck.

A friend of mine has this lens, the new G. I was surprised to see that it has a plastic mount, considering the price. Its quality resembles the Nikon starter lenses. Another friend has the latest Tamron 28-200, and between the two I would recommend the Tamron based on its build quality alone. The Tamron has a metal mount and an aperture ring. Both lenses seem to take good pictures, but I really am not qualified to judge image quality. I concur with the recommendation for the 28-105, which I have. It takes very sharp pictures and has very little distortion. Another choice is the 24-85 AFS G, which I understand has a good reputation, but I've never used it.

Domke J2. Best bag I've ever owned. It would be a great choice for your D100.

If you watch auction sites and also ads you can get the EC-E screen for about $80. You have to be patient but you'll find one. This is a great screen BTW.

I've used this lens for several years and have been very happy with it. Its a very sharp lens and I've taken some great pictures with it. In my view, the constant f/4 aperture is a big plus and the lens is a bargain at today's prices because of this. I agree that the focusing ring "sucks" but since it's an AF lens, it has never bothered me. Also, the AF is slow, but not unreasonably slow to detract from purchasing it, unless you're shooting high speed action. If you're happy with the price, then go for it! You won't be disappointed. I don't use this lens much anymore, because I primarily use the 80-400 VR lens now.

Robert,

Thank you. The photo.net forum you directed me to was very helpful. It sounds like the M screen is very useful when shooting at magnification ratios greater than 1:1. Basically, I use a 105 macro which achieves 1:1 without extensions. I don't shoot at greater magnifiction ratios-- maybe someday I will, but currently I don't. Also, I have the DW-31 finder which I picked up at a great price at a camera show, which is why I'm curious about the M and C focusing screens. The M screen sounds wonderful, but given my current macro work, will I see much of a difference with the M screen over my E screen to justify the rather reasonable cost? Also, is there any exposure compensation with the M screen and will the M screen work with the F5's electronic rangefinder? Thanks.

What are your experiences using the C or M focusing screen with

Nikon's high magnification finder (DW-21 (F4) DW-31 (F5))? Is it

better to use one of these screens over the focusing screens that

come standard with these bodies? Thanks.