darek___

OK, I used alkalines, Duracell Ultra, went through 15 rolls of film

and the recycling time never exceeded 2 sec. Call me lucky...

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just for a follow-up.

Thanks for your advices anyway.

Hi,

What type of batteries give shortest recycle time for 380EX used in E-TTL with ISO400 or even 800 negative films? The place will be relatively small chapel and a club with a low(8ft) ceiling.

No, it's just a birthday party, not a wedding and I won't be a "pro", just candids...

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Thanks to all.

As long as you keep your flash in TTL mode, its light output is

controlled by means of TTL metering on your camera, ie no matter if

you shoot in P,A,T or M. Therefore your dialed-in flash exposure

compensation is taken off the camera-computed off-the-film exposure

value for the flash. As you see, flash and ambient exposure in modern

cameras are pretty independent.

Hello,

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I don't have any first-hand experience with it, so it's just my

humble opinion... ZX-M is a fully electronic, battery-dependable non-

AF camera. Now, every AF camera can be switched to manual focus very

easily and still have all its advanced features. So what is the point

of buying something like ZX-M? It's not rugged and won't operate

without a battery at all. If I was to buy a "manual" camera I would

go for one that's fully mechanical and will provide a back-up for my

fully electronic if the later one fails.

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As I said at the beggining, it's just my humble opinion... :)

I was given an older flash unit, non-dedicated. While testing its triggering voltage I noticed that it has reversed polarity comparing to my Canon flash. The voltage is 6V=OK, but is the reversed polarity a problem when using the flash directly on hot shoe?

I have Canon EOS Elan II.

Thanks in advance.

Brian and others,

I give up. Please, read carefuly what I or other people say, don't

take it too personally and think. As I said , thinking is free and

everybody should use their brains once a while.

For your info, Brian, I am or used to be to be precise, a teacher,

too and certain pedagogical/psychological knowledge came with my

degree. Reread the sample question I gave in my previous posting and

tell me what kind of information can be possibly gathered from it?!

And just for reference, it was a question I came upon in the

photo.net Q&A.

That's all the time I wasted on the subject, see you guys at some

other posts.

Brian, I don't feel superior and don't give answers that would

indicate that. By "dummies" I mean people, lots of them

unfortunately, who post something like that:

I don't like my XXXXX camera, it's stupid! Am I right, does anybody

else have same experience?

Well, tell me now that it's a smart question deserving smart, polite

answer...

Being rude is one thing, giving sarcastic answers to an idiotic

questions(like I recently did few times) is another!

Yeah, don't be rude, but if you see a stupid question taking up space

on the forum, tell the dumbo what you think...thinking is FREE.

I have a Canon Eos Elan IIe and just got a $1 worth flash for, supposedlu, Canon EOS. It's called Alfon 601-Can Auto Focus. Does anybody know anything about these? And another silly question: I have an older Practika BC-20 flash (Auto & TTL) from my old set. Can I use it directly on my Canon or will it fry its circuits? That flash was made in Germany for Practika BX 20 camera and resembles Metz design.

Thanks to all who will answer.

Hey techno-freaks,

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Jeff- I didn't feel offended. My post was intended to be kind of funny, although I was serous about development and advanced technologies finding their way to consumer-oriented products. How much of it is a gimmick and how much is really usefull in any kind of photography?-that's another question. All the clutter around the EOS3 release is a marketing "job" and Canon is not any different here than the rest of the photo-business. That reminds me of their Ultrasonik lenses that are really not ultrasonik, but since Ultrasonik is good and sells well, than why not cashing on it?...You want Silent Wind and Rewind- go manual, you want perfect autofocus- try Bob Atkin's(I believe) eye controlled digital(=use your eye and your fingers...).

Of course who would buy such a "sophisticated" camera, right?

Nikon puts RGB meter and 8fps autofocus in F5- isn't that overkill...go and buy a video camera instead.

Minolta has eye-activation, cool, but if you turn it off its useless, if its on, try to hang the camera on your neck, let it bang off your chest(or belly for some of us :) and the gimmick is going and going like an Pink Energizer Bunny.

Well, Canon has its ECF, now with 45 point and they still located around the very center of the viewfinder...how much is that better than one big wide-area sensor?

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Well, I'm getting hungry, so thats all for now and I'm looking forward to more techno discussion here.

Darek

As someone, somewhere said it before: HUSH!!! and don't complain about new, advanced and improoved cameras/accesories made by one ( anyone) manufacturer. Competition is good and as long as they(Canon, Nikon, Minolta, etc etc) compete, we, customers can only win. The gear gets better, selection bigger, prices usually lower. That's what most of us want, right?

If someone doesn't like all the new "gimmicks", just get a simple, manual-all camera, take pictures and be happy.

have a good day/night yo all...:)

Thank you for "moderation", but if someone has better explanation or just wants to elaborate on the subject, why not doing it right here instead sending special requests to Brad?

OK, its not just simple averaging, but didn't I say "more sophisticated"?! If your 6, 14 or 16 zone meter detects bright foreground and dark background, what does it do?- well, it tries to give you nicely exposed picture by averaging EVs so everything would come out nice. Sometimes the difference is too big and the picture comes over- or under-exposed anyway. If I worked for some camera manufacturer, I could say Evaluative meter finds the OPTIMUM exposure...since I don't, I say it averages it :)

Now the Evaluative metering works best if connected to a focusing point(Canon), gets the subject distance info(Nikon) or camera has Expert Program(Minolta).

This way it knows which part of the picture has to be exposed corectly and concentrates on it. That's something Center-weighted cannot do, unless all your pictures have their point of focus and attention always right in the center.

If I'm wrong(15+ years with Center-weighted,1 year only with evaluative) corect me, I really dont mind and as long as its nothing rude,I don't take it personally...:)

Since you already have few Nikon lenses, why not going for Nikon?

This way all you need to buy for now is a body. You will be able to see for yourself how it "fits" you and decide to keep it or go and exchange everything for, say, Canon or some other brand.

I'm a Canon user, but as far as my experience with Nikon goes, I would rather get N6006 than N70 (ergonomics...).

Good luck anyway.

Brad answered your first question.

Now, 6 or 16 zone metering- all goes the same way. Camera measures 16 zones of the picture, evaluates the data and gives you AVERAGE as your exposure values. It does put more weight on the focus point area, though.

Evaluative metering works just like center-weighted, only it's more sophisticated. In most conditions you'll get the same or almost the same exposure value. It was left on modern cameras mostly for those, who"ate their teeth" on center-weighted and can easy compensate for difficult light conditions.

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Hope it helps a little.