Jump to content

doug_landrum

Members
  • Posts

    560
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by doug_landrum

  1. <p>If you switch to Lightroom, then go to the Luminous-landscape site and buy their video tutorials. As tutorials go, they are cheap. Buy the LR 4 tutorials, LR 5 tutorials and any LR 6 tutorials. Do not start using LR until you have gone through the first few beginner tutorials up to Library in LR 4. Those will help you understand the database functions. LR is both a database for organizing photos and an optimizing program and more. LR is a great leap forward. I use LR and Photoshop and purchase the $10 per month subscription from Adobe. There are many steps to photo optimization that you have not taken until you use LR and more when you learn LR and PS.<br>

    PS: LR 4 was a great improvement over prior versions and LR 5 and LR 6 are tweaks.</p>

  2. <p>First responding to the question of putting a non-EOS lens on a Canon EOS body, I have tried my Leica R lenses on my 7D with mixed results. I use a Novoflex adapter. It's expensive, solid and will not harm an EOS body. You have to be very careful with using Leica retrofocus, wide angle lenses on an EOS full frame. I use the 19MM Elmarit-R on my crop, but the mirror will hit the lens with a full frame unless you grind off part if the lens housing - not to my liking. Getting exposure right is difficult. The Camera with operate stopped down metering but its very inaccurate.</p>

    <p>I frankly find using Canon lenses gives me more consistent results. I am happy with the version I of the 24-70L and the 70-200L. Someday I may trade up to version II or both lenses, the reports are fabulous. I sometimes like to put the plastic 50mm f/1.8 on the 7D.</p>

  3. <p>I have used the V. I on my 7D as my go to lens. I shoot landscapes with it primarily. Until the V. II, the V. I was the go to lens for wedding photographers. I find mine sharp, contrasty and well built. I print up to 11 X 17 on 13 X 19 paper with tack sharp results. I am currently thinking of getting a larger format printer and I am sure the V. I will continue to please. </p>

    <p>If you would like to pixel peep, then go here, click on Actions, View All Sizes:</p>

    <p> Doug_Landrum_Naked_Bristlecones-Print_File_10-07-2012

    <p> </p>

  4. <p>Thanks in advance for all responses. </p>

    <p>I have a Canon 9500 MkII. I would like to get a larger carriage - I am thinking of an Epson 3880. The ink capacities of the Epson 4900 and Canon 5100 are a bit large for me. I am afraid the ink would go bad for the quantities that I expect to print. But the 3880 will not do panoramas. I like controlling all variables by printing my own but with my parameters, I can't print my own panoramas - some in native resolution up to 60" wide.<br>

    <br />So I am looking for a printing service that will provide ICC profiles so that I can soft proof using Lightroom 4.4 and will accept 16 bit files in Pro Photo color space that will print on good fiber or baryta papers with pigment ink using a recent version Epson or Canon printer? <br />Do you know of any?</p>

  5. <p>Mark,<br>

    Your question was clear to me from the outset. I have a 7D and 580EX. I use the wireless flash triggering from time to time and I really like it.</p>

    <p>Here is what I think the answer is: HHS can be triggered on a Canon EX slave flash but the master sets that function and relays it to the slave. On the 7D, the camera's built in flash does not have HSS capability, so it cannot trigger HSS on a slave.</p>

    <p>I think that is the answer from reading the manual on the 580EX. It says "Flash exposure compensation and other settings set with the master unit will also be automatically set in the slave units. Wireless flash with the following settings can be done in the same way as with normal flash settings." Then a list of functions follows including, " High-speed sync (FP flash)."</p>

    <p>So with the camera as a master - no HSS. If a flash with HSS is used on camera as a master, then HSS should be transmitted to HSS slaves.</p>

    <p>Good shooting, Doug</p>

  6. <p>Here is another idea that I have used with the 7D. Use M, set your base shutter speed and aperture. Then activate auto ISO. The camera adjusts ISO to match your M settings. I have used this for sports shooting where the ISO is likely to remain in the Auto range 100 to 3200 given my M settings.</p>
  7. <p>My sympathies. When I lived on the east coast, I could get the reaction by being in proximity of the leafless woody stems in the winter under a foot of snow. I have had the rash everywhere - yes everywhere - except my lungs - I have heard that you can get the rash in the lungs if you breath in smoke from burning poison ivy/oak/sumac. I get the reaction from exposure to English ivy. About 30 years ago when I was an active east coast woodsman, there used to be an over the counter lotion product that would prevent the rash. I don't know if it exists today, but if I were to venture into the woods, I would search it out. Good luck. I think alcohol breaks the oil down.</p>
  8. <p>A few thoughts:<br>

    The US Dollar is depreciating. Imported goods and commodities (like oil and gasoline at the pump) are generally increasing in price. That's the primary reason new premium Canon lenses are increasing in price. <br>

    Those that comment on price of bodies as being cost effective due to zero film & processing costs are correct. I used to pay at least $100 per month on film & processing.<br>

    Chanel No. 5 prices on printer ink are a bitch. Good paper is expensive (I have a taste for the Moab line). But a good color print at my home on Ilfochrome was outrageous in terms of chemicals, paper and time. B&W's on my Canon 9500 MkII are at least as good as anything I did in my dark room.<br>

    Does anyone want to buy a Durst M601 with mint quality Rodenstock and Nikkor lenses - big trays and good fixer smells?<br>

    I though not.<br>

    Happy digital shooting and processing.</p>

  9. <p>Dan,<br>

    My 2-cents.<br>

    I've shot a lot of HS football. I am hopeful that my work schedule this week allows me to shoot a BBall game.<br>

    First, CIF rules (California) ban flash at indoor events.<br>

    Next, Strong noise reduction and RAW cuts frame rate - don't use strong NR.<br>

    Here are my settings for autofocus for sports on the 7D:<br>

    Custom Functions III -<br>

    1,Fast<br>

    6,Enable All<br>

    7,1 Continuous<br>

    8, 1 Enable<br>

    I shoot at ISO 6400 with f/2.8 L lenses<br>

    Here is a site for Noise reduction settings using various software:<br>

    http://www.phototestcenter.com/html/canon_7d__raw_settings.html<br>

    Good Shooting</p>

  10. <p>April,<br>

    See this article on ETTR (Expose to the Right) for Digital. There is more information in the brighter areas of a digital image than the darker areas. All current DSLR's expose according to the best exposure for film - an average of 18% gray. You will get a better digital image if you make it as bright as possible without blowing the highlights. You use the histogram of your image to push exposure to the right of the histogram - again without going over the edge and blowing highlights because those cannot be recovered.<br>

    Adjust the brightness in post processing.<br>

    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/optimizing_exposure.shtml<br>

    Shoot RAW, Adobe RGB, Lowest ISO, Optimum Lens Aperture and ETTR.</p>

     

  11. <p>My EF 24-70 f/2.8L is great - color contrast, overall sharpness and bokeh are fabulous - I say this by comparing the 24-70 with my other lenses mounted on my 7D that are Leica R primes in the same focal length range. The only practical aspect separating the Leica primes from the Canon zoom is distortion - that is corrected by DxO Optics Pro. Long live the 24-70.</p>
  12. <p>I shoot high school night football stills. Two things - fast lens and fast, sure autofocus. The fields here in California are dark - I shoot with an EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM (first version) wide open at ISO 6400. I use a 7D. I tried to shoot with a 20D - the autofocus system did not produce. If you are shooting only video - get a video camera. You will not have anything in focus with a Rebel DSLR shooting video.</p>
  13. <p>Hi Robert,<br>

    Here are the settings that I use for night football:<br>

    RAW. Lens at f/2.8. Aperture preferred. Evaluative metering. <br>

    8 Frames per second.<br>

    ISO 6400<br>

    Enable all 19 focus points.<br>

    AI Servo.<br>

    Regular AF point - center selected as initially active, not spot AF. (I use the spot AF point for non-action shots on "one shot" AF.)<br>

    CFn III.1. Fast AI Servo tracking sensitivity.<br>

    CFn III.7. Continuous Manual AF pt. select. pattern<br>

    CFn III.8. Enable VF display illumination<br>

    All other CFn III on default<br>

    I select the center focus point to pickup my subject. As the camera/subject moves, the focus points are multiple and jump all over the screen. My results are in sharp focus about 90% plus of resulting frames.<br>

    The focus system of the 7D is unlike any prior Canon camera. I find that it works extremely well.<br>

    Here is an article from the Canon Digital Learning Center.<br>

    http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/whats_news_eos7d_article.shtml<br>

    Here is another link.<br>

    http://jefflynchdev.wordpress.com/2011/01/12/canon-eos-7d-autofocus-modes-explained/<br>

    Good shooting.</p>

×
×
  • Create New...