stephan_matthies

<p>Hi Larry,<br>

I am glad my information to you was helpful. My wife and I live in Cumbayá, close to Quito. You can contact me under <a href="mailto:stephan.matthies@berlin.de">stephan.matthies@berlin.de</a>. If the weather is nice you should be able to see the plumes of the Tungurahua from Ambato. Unfortunately, we've had lusy weather in the last months: solid grey skies and rain, rain, rain. They say ist's "La Niña". From Simiatug the view could be blocked by Chimborazo and Carihuairazo which are both in a direct line with the Tungurahua.<br>

Good luck with your final decisions and your purchases.<br>

Cheers, Stephan</p>

<p>Hi Gurpreet,<br>

the pixel count doesn't do it. All depends what each pixel records and how it is being processed. These two cameras do not have the same processor set-up as you have already noticed. The 1 DX has a newly developed set-up. I find the technical aspect quite complicated and very often (!) the different processors and/or sensors do not translate into better IQ. And it really depends and what you want to do photographically. Do you need ruggedness, weather sealing, speed etc.? You could read the specs on <a href="http://www.canon.com">www.canon.com</a>. But, as I said, you need to be sure of what you want to do! Are you a layman with pots of money? Go for the 1 DX (if you can get one). If you are a layman with less money, choose another option.<br>

Cheers, Stephan</p>

<p>I second John's view and would add another aspect: The 17-40mm is a fanstastic lens, loses out almost only on the aperture (see tests on <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com">www.the-digital-picture.com</a>) and it is a lot lighter than the 16-35. Jujst in case you should be walking about a lot ... And I find that 17 mm is already pretty dramatic!<br>

Cheers, Stephan</p>

<p>Good morning, Larry!<br>

I hope you slept well. You seem to have narrowed down your choices. I think you cannot go wrong with this choice. There is one last IF. Sharing the same passion - photography - and sharing the same age bracket, I dare assume that you might not want to change gear too frequently in the future. If that were so and if you were to end up loving the lenses you are going to use extensively on your trip and if some time after your trip you might want to improve the camera quality and go for a FF-camera and drop the 1.6 factor camera altogether... you might want to keep the FF-lenses. In short, I would go for the 24-105. Then, you would be left with just the 10-22 mm as a "crop-camera-lens". One lens is a bit easier to replace and getting used to a new on (e.g. a good prime lens). What do you think?<br>

Cheers, Stephan</p>

<p>I second Matthijs' view. Iown the 24-105 and the 100-400. I do not know the 10-22 but you need the wide angle. Also, what Shun Cheung said is partly correct. Cameras, especially when they are not weather proof like the 1-series, could fail you in the rainforest. So, taking your weight concern into the equation, You could leave the 10-22 at home and take the 5D, 5DII or 5DIII. All three are excellent cameras, leightweight, high resolution, video capability AND you would have a back-up lens. With 24 mm on the wide end you should be okay.<br>

Cheers</p>

<p>Hi Larry,<br>

before answering the equipment question I have a BIG question mark in context with your "personal twist" No 3. You are visiting one of the most exquisite countries on this planet concerning bio diversity. So, I think you should be concerned with IQ. Besides, some of the equipment you list is "serious" gear. I live in Ecuador and always have the opportunity to go back to the jungle, the páramo, even the isles if I am not satisfied with the outcome. I would bite my behind if I spent so much money on a "memory lane holiday" in a beautiful country only to come home looking at the pics and say "I wish I had taken ...", you finish the sentence.<br>

Anyhow. I suggest option 4 (but you would need something to fill the gap between 55 and 100. The 100-400 is a very versatile lens and for bird shots it is pretty good. It is lighter than the 70-200 + 1.4 combo and gives you more reach. You could catch birds in flight on the galapagos and/or the mountains (condors, eagles, hawks etc.). 280 mm is just not enough. If you do not want to use a tripod, leave also the monopod behind. In the jungel it is so dark that a monopod does not help. IS and monopod usually does not give you good results. Depending on where you go in the jungle, taking pics of moving animals in the trees is dificult. Some lodges take you around on kajaks. They are unstable and even a fast lens does not freeze movement enough. Just in case you are interested in macro, DO take a light tripod. The light ones give you enough stability for a combo for close-ups, though not for the 100-400 + 1.4. On the wide end you should consider something wider (maybe a FF camera?), because 29 mm is pretty narrow for these breathtaking mountain sceneries. I often take pics with a FF camera and my 17-40 cranked to its widest.<br>

For your highland visit keep a tag on the Tungurahua volcano near Baños. He's been quite active lately making for wonderful pics (and film clips when you record the deeeeeep rumbling).<br>

A last note on the Galapagos. Your decision to go on a boat is wise. You will have a shock about the state of the isles when you hit the shore. Building activities, too many people (tourists AND islanders), rubbish everywhere and an appaling attitude of the locals in context with environmental issues.<br>

Still, Ecuador will make your heart beat faster! Enjoy your trip!<br>

Cheers, Stephan</p>

<p>Thank you Jim,<br>

you confirmed what I had suspected but wasn't sure about.<br>

Stephan</p>

<p>Hi everybody,<br>

I have been using Lightroom for a long time for archiving, categorising, rating and adjusting pictures. I also had an ooooold Photoshop version that I rarely used. Now, I have bought Photoshop CS5 and I was going to keep using lightroom for the above mentioned workflow and using CS5 only for more advanced work. My question: Am I missing out on possibly important features if I do not use Camera Raw for importing and Bridge for archiving etc. Any advice? Thanks in advance.<br>

Stephan</p>

<p>Hi George,<br>

I am sorry to say that I find this approach problematic. With so little time in an old European city (and I do suspect that you do not live in Europe) I would say: Forget about taking a guide and running around in an unknown city breathlessly taking pics at high speed just to be able to say: been there, done it, bought the T-shirt. Instead, take your camera, stroll, follow your nose, breath in the city, the people, the culture - if you can. And, plan to go back another time with a few days (at least) to spend. Photography is about understanding what you photograph.<br>

Suerte, Stephan</p>

<p>Hi Greg,<br>

the answer is yes, if you have the money. I own the 5 D Mk2, the 1 D Mk4 AND the 7 D and I would not think of selling it. It is small, light-weight and yet rugged. For sports it gives you the speed that you need and the video capability plus an improved AF system that allows you to focus more easily on moving targets. Also for landscape it works nicely, although it limits panoramic shots because of the 1.6 crop factor. Even the 17-40mm does not make it really "wide" with appr. 28 mm.<br>

Stephan</p>

<p>Hi Geoff,<br>

I would say that the IQ of the 300/4 is better than the 70-200/2.8 + 1.4, although you get to fairly the same mm + f combination. In any case, f4 is not enough for dark scenes, especially if the action is fast and you would have to raise ISO to the 7D's limits. In the end it depends what you want to achieve: sharp images with no noise and true colours or do you want to play with movement in dark environs (blurring)?<br>

Stephan</p>

<p>Hi Eliza,<br>

the Canon 5D Mk II is an excellent camera. So, I suggest that you go for an excellent lens, taking into consideration the basic "thumb rule": From a given budget you should spend more on the lens than on a camera since your pictures are only as good (as you are as a photographer and) as the glass you use.<br>

Here is a link of a website where you find excellent reviews and hints and suggestions:<br>

<a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-85mm-f-1.2-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx">http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-85mm-f-1.2-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx</a><br>

Cheers, Stephan </p>

<p>Hi Krishna,<br>

I do agree with the recommendations given above under the condition that you will "forever" stay with a 1.6 crop body. I started with the 10D, which is a 1.6 crop-factor body but started to buy full-frame-lenses from the start, because I suspected that one day (and this day came soon) I would get a full frame body. If you decide to buy a FF-body one day you might as well forget about the S-lenses. Decisions, decisions ...<br>

Stephan</p>

<p>Thanks Craig,<br>

although that does not make it easier to decide on the bucks to be spent.</p>

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

Before I spend a lot of money: According to Canon the cross-type-sensors of the 1 D MK4 only work fully (horiz. + vert.) with two f4-lenses (17-40 and 24-104) and some f2.8-lenses (up to 400 f2.8) with or without the 1.4 extender. There is no mention of the 500 f4. Simply put: Do I not have the advantage of 1 D MK4's fantastic AF system and its cross-type sensors with the 500 f4? In other words, leaving the mm-reach aside, is the combo 1 D MK4 + 400 f2.8 focussing faster than the 1 D MK4 + 500 f4? Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks in advance<br>

Stephan<br>

---------<br>

Here is the quote from the Canon website:<br>

The remaining 38 cross-type AF points are vertical line sensitive at f/2.8 <br />and horizontal line sensitive at f/5.6. If the lens in use has a maximum <br />aperture of f/2.8 or faster, high precision focusing with cross-type sensors <br />will be possible. If the lens’ maximum aperture if f/5.6 or faster, AF will <br />still function with horizontal line detection.<br>

In an upgrade from previous EOS cameras, the following lenses and <br />lens/extender combinations will also function with cross-type AF at all 39 <br />cross-type AF points, even though the maximum aperture is f/4:</p>

<ul>

<li> EF17-40mm f/4L USM </li>

<li>EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM </li>

<li>EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM + Extender EF1.4x II </li>

<li>EF200mm f/2L IS USM + Extender EF2x II </li>

<li>EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM + Extender EF1.4xII </li>

<li>EF400mm f/2.8L IS USM + Extender EF1.4x II </li>

</ul>

<p>-----------</p>

 

<p>Hi Tom,<br>

although I do not know what you're up to with your TS-E lens, it is clear that with each piece of extra glass you put between the object and the sensor image quality decreases . The price difference between the 1.4 Extender III and the 7 D is significant. But, if you have the spare cash, go for the 7 D. It is an excellent camera, gives you a 1.6 "magnification" factor and you have less glass between obejct and sensor than with the extender-solution.<br>

cheers </p>

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

landing at Lima's airport I got a green light at the customs control. Nevertheless, one of the customs officers saw my cameras and lenses on the X-ray-screen. I was pulled out and told that there is only one camera + one lens per person allowed into the country. This information had not been available to me previously. No-one had warned me of it. You can imagine the argument that ensued. A superior confirmed the customs officer's decision. The solution should have been: make a deposite at customs for the value of the "excessive" lenses and cameras and the moment you leave the country you get your money back (with a one hour stop-over at Lima's airport on the return trip!). Finally, I presented my diplomatic passport and a superior of the superior of the custom's officer waved me through: "This time... but next time..." The joke is, that this rule is not listed anywhere, not even amongst the fine print of the customs's declaration you have to fill in on the plane. You have to conclude on your own that excessive lenses and cameras are valuables that you temporarily import. Anyhow, I do not know if my diplomatic passport did the trick or if the superior was the only one with some sense. Maybe, it was a "one-off" since entering by car into Peru never poses a problem. Just take this into account when you fly into Peru which is a marvellous country and should be properly photographed.<br>

Cheers, Stephan</p>

<p>Thanks everybody. I already disabled the settings and will keep your suggestions in mind.</p>

<p>Thanks Nadine. I guess it is a mixture of underexposing and the camera setting in this image. I have others with no white and correct exposure and still too much noise for my taste. I shall revise the other images with what you said in mind.</p>

<p>sorry, forgot to put in the image.</p><div></div>

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

For wedding shots I set on both cameras the following: highlight tone priority (enabled), auto lighting optimizer (standard). The event was outside on a slightly overcast day. The shot included (cropped) was taken under a canopy covered with very transparent gauze material with 1/100, f 5 and ISO 200 on the 7d with the ef 24-105 mm (IS = on) . I find the noise (in all the pictures) unacceptable and the overall appearance not sharp. My questions:</p>

<ol>

<li>Is this due to the settings?</li>

<li>I imported the pics into Lightroom without any development settings. In EOS Digital Professional the noise is less. How can I get the less noisy Raw file from EOS DP into Lightroom without the noise.</li>

</ol>

<p>Thanks for any advice.<br>

Stpehan</p>

<p>Thanks, everybody! Yes, it is getting to be expensive. But in Ecuador you have the choice between this Apple monitor or a cheap Samsung for around 250 USD (We have simply not arrived in the "first world" in some respects ;-). I will be on the lookout for an appropriate adaptor. The calibrating device is not a problem.</p>

<p>Hi Patrick,<br>

it is a fairly new Apple monitor with 27" and LED technology. I need an adapter for the mini display port and either VGA or HDMI. But still, I do not know if the calibration works.<br>

Stephan</p>

<p>Hi everybody,<br>

my Dell Precision laptop has got the NVIDIA Quadro 2000 M graphics card. I need an extra monitor. The only decent one I can get my hands on (here in Ecuador) is an Apple MC007E/A. My question: Does the monitor work with my Dell AND can it be calibrated? Any experience? Thanks in advance.<br>

Stephan</p>

<p>Roman, David said the most important thing: You need a very short exposure time, even if the boat is not moving very much, especifically if you shoot a stationary subject. If you can get close enough, use the 300mm lens. I fear, you will encounter big problems with your 600mm lens.</p>