PhotoWorksbyDon
-
Posts
82 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by PhotoWorksbyDon
-
-
<p>Thanks Chas, I'll put that on the wish list. ;)</p>
-
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I have a single stand and with a white, black, and two brownish pattern muslin backgrounds. I don't like them and am thinking canvas would be better. The muslins are way too thin and don't always block out light from behind. Of course when I want that it's nice, but I don't always want it that way.</p>
<p>So I've been looking around at roller systems and there are a bazillion. I don't want a wall mount as I'd like to be more portable for now. Do any of you have suggestions for a good, three or four background roller system, chains, etc?</p>
<p>I'm thinking a white, black, blue pattern, and a another pattern canvas background setup would be perfect for what I want. Something at least 12' wide.</p>
<p>Also, I've seen some setups that appear to use a life-size (for lack of a better term) shooting table. What are those? The while transitions nicely from the background to the floor, no seams.</p>
<p>Thanks as always, you folks are always so helpful and I appreciate it.</p>
<p>Don</p>
-
<p>Well, wouldn't you know it I ran the whole thing tonight and it worked like a charm. Even used the 30' ETTL cord and all four speedlights fired like clockwork and they all ran on the proper channels. Nothing changed other than I removed and charged all the batteries again, but they were charged when I was using them before.</p>
<p>Anyway, thanks again for the help. If it happens again I'll hit those other forums and/or call Canon.</p>
<p>D</p>
-
<p>Thanks to both of you. I'll run through all of them and nail down whether it's one or all.</p>
<p>If I get more of an idea of where the problem lies I'll post the question on those other forums, thanks for the links!</p>
-
<p>@ Dan - Yes, my bad, it's an ETTL cord - http://ocfgear.com/ettl-cord-extra-long/</p>
<p>It does the same in ETTL. I need to go to the light, hold the Mode butting until the M blinks, then put it back to ETTL Fire. Repeat. If the slave is in M mode it won't fire.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>Hello, I have a couple questions, actually, and they both relate to my speedlight functions...</p>
<p>I have three 580exii's and a 320ex. I've been having a bugger of a time getting this set up to fire properly for portraits. I use a 30' sync cord so I can have the Master off-camera, but it's done the same when the Master is in the hot-shoe.</p>
<p>Anyway, the slaves don't always fire, even when I have fresh batteries and they are all within "sight" of the master. I'm baffled by this one, but I'm even more bipped by one that always resets to M mode, from ETTL mode after every fire, therefore it won't fire unless I reset it to ETTL mode. </p>
<p>I have the Master as the main light at full M, the slave that doesn't fire is my B, and the others are on C. When I move the funky slave and make it the master, it won't show the C.</p>
<p>These are fairly new flashes. Is there some sort of reset button? I assume they reset when I replace the batteries since I have to set them up again as Master and Slave.</p>
<p>I hope this makes sense to someone and I can get some direction. It sucks when this happens in the middle of a sitting.</p>
<p>Thanks for any and all help.</p>
-
<p>Great stuff, as always. I'm about due for a haircut as it is so I'll be asking. My stylist is beautiful so you've given me the idea to ask her to model for me. I love this place. ;)</p>
-
<div>
</div>
-
<p>I'm thinking it might be a good idea to have a mannequin head or two around to practice lighting. Anyone here done this? If so any recos for good, realistic looking items?</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
-
<p>I've found it a good practice to get a release from anyone I photograph. It's just safer that way. This is also based on U.S. law. We loves to sue.</p>
-
<p>Thanks again all. Sorry for the 20 questions but I want to get this right. Is this a good setup?</p>
<p>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00474TW36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=AMEAQY81R6T0Z</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
-
<blockquote>
<p>In this case, a silver umbrella or even someone holding a gold reflector would have done a better job.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Okay, I'll keep that in mind next time. I guess my thought was all out of whack as I was thinking using the speedlight without any kind of modifier would be even worse. Then again on No. 1 I ended up lighting her body instead of her face.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>You need to reposition either the model or yourself. Shooting higher or lower will move those lines. As will moving the model.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Okay, gotcha. I'll be more attentive with those. I admit I was focusing on the lighting...and she was beginning to get cold so I was hurrying.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>As to the final shot, what lighting pattern were you striving for?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This one was done earlier than the others. I wanted to get that nice little triangle on her right cheek that I've seen in other portraits. Is this not possible using a softbox, or with this subject as she has a somewhat roundish face? In any case if that area had been darker I think it would have been a stronger image, yes? Also, getting more sharpness in her eyes. I focused on her left eye but it still came out less than tack-sharp. I don't know if that's lighting or user/camera error.</p>
<p>Your feedback is very helpful though. Gives me a lot to go on this weekend when we go for round two. Thanks!</p>
-
<p>Thanks guys. What's this mean - 2000mAh? And is a higher number stronger, longer lasting, etc?</p>
<p>For instance, I see B&H has these:</p>
<p>The Sanyo (and your post) seem to be the preferred choice, but what do the numbers mean, and is it a big difference between these two?</p>
<p>Thanks again!</p>
-
<p>Update:</p>
<p>Did a shoot last weekend with the speedlights and wasn't terribly persuaded yet one way or the other. I don't think I have enough experience yet to make a decision as I have to think most of the errors were user-caused, lol.</p>
<p>I'm so thankful for the Buff suggestions and that this thread will remain here for reference, should I decide to go that way. I'll need better results from the speedlights not to go that way, so I'll be keeping this in mind.</p>
-
<p>I've used rechargeable batteries in the past and had horrible results. They'd last about half a football game and be done.</p>
<p>I'm now delving into other kinds of work and am using three 580EXII and a 320EX speedlight setup for portraits and other subjects. I recently did my first real portrait shoot using this lighting setup and noticed the Duracell AA's didn't last very long (shooting mainly manual at various power outputs).</p>
<p>I've spoken with a couple of hobbyists such as myself and they've mentioned that rechargeable technology has made leaps and bounds so I'm looking into it but would appreciate any suggestions and/or experience you've had with these.</p>
<p>OR, if there is another setup that lasts even longer, like a powerpack, I'd be interested in knowing your experience with those as well. Those can get expensive though.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
-
<p>John, good stuff and noted. I've gotten a lot of feedback about the lighting on No. 1 not emphasizing her face so that is duly recorded in me brain. Just FYI, her and her boyfriend really like that one. Can't imagine how they'd like it if I'd done it more correctly. What can ya do? Thanks for the comment about the softbox, makes sense. I used one light and my thought process was to make the speedlight bigger, since it wouldn't be so close to her.</p>
<p>This is something I realized after seeing the images and I think goes towards your horizon line comment - I'm sure using a wider aperture would have removed that issue, no?</p>
<p>Ironing the background, haha, yeah, my bad and so simple. I don't have a lot of room in my apt (which is where the inside images were shot) but will definitely invest in an iron and get my subjects away from the background.</p>
<p>Here's another one they both really liked:</p>
<p>http://www.photo.net/photo/13721252</p>
<p>So much to learn, but what a blast! Thanks for your comments and feedback.</p>
-
<p>Matthew, thank you very much, lots of good stuff there to bring to the next attempt. I had an idea about the "shooting down" and will take the camera off the tripod for the next shoot. I'll post the results.</p>
<p>John, fair enough. I am using a lot of resources, books, etc and this forum is one. I appreciate your time and help.</p>
<p>How about three:</p>
<p>http://www.photo.net/photo/13719692</p>
<p>http://www.photo.net/photo/13720172</p>
<p>http://www.photo.net/photo/13712136</p>
<p>Thanks so much!</p>
-
<p>Hi all, tough crowd as the ratings on my latest shoot are fairly low, which is fine as it gives me more to learn. I'm curious as to how I could have made the images of Dan Thao better, more appealing, sexy, made her eyes pop more, knocked off some of the sun glare, and lit her better, post=processing tips, anything that might make these 6+ rather than high 3 or low 4.</p>
<p>http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=1000447</p>
<p>Camera: Canon 50D<br>
Lenses: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II; Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM</p>
<p>Set up:</p>
<p>Indoor - three 580EXII and one 320EX for speedlights on stands with softboxes, and all set on manual at various power settings. I want to learn all aspects of lighting but indoor is really a challenge. I'm not sure whether to stick with the speedlight setup or go with studio strobes. I used my little apartment as the studio. I started with the 50, 1.8 but quickly moved to the Sigma for more focal range. I also shot everything using tripod.</p>
<p>Outdoor - One 580EXII on a stand with a 2'X3' softbox, and an ST-E2 transmitter. I had the speedlight set on E-TTL as time was short.</p>
<p>I'm not terribly disappointed with the posing but can always improve.</p>
<p>We'll be doing this again over the weekend and I definitely plan on taking the camera off the tripod. Any suggestions and feedback appreciated.</p>
-
<p>Do composites count? ;)</p>
<p>BTW, anyone know how to make a realistic reflection please share, thanks.</p><div>
</div> -
<p>@Rob - Yes, though I do sharpen as much as possible there's a noticeable difference between the finals shot with the 70-200 and my other lenses (17-70 Sigma; 10-22 Canon; 20, 2.8 Canon; 50 1.8 Canon). And thanks for the tip WRT to the first response. That one threw me - how could a Canon lens not be made for a Canon box? ;)</p>
<p>@Marcus - I just saw that term for the first time so have no idea what it means or how to do it. Would I find instructions in the 50D manual?</p>
<p>Thanks guys!</p>
-
<p>Hi, this lens has been a workhorse for me but I've always noticed a bit of softfocusing. I figured user-error since I shot mostly sports and hand-held or uses a monopod. However, since moving more into landscape, using a tripod and mirror lock-up I'm still noticing a bit of blurry. My other lenses seem to be more tack sharp.</p>
<p>I've read up on this and seen all kinds of suggestions and tests ranging from shooting a high contrast item on my carpet to sending both the lens and my camera (50D) to Canon for calibration. One response was that this particular lens wasn't made for the 50D. What does that mean?</p>
<p>My question here is that if you've experience the same issue what did you do to correct it? If you sent both items to Canon for calibration did it mess up things with your other lenses?</p>
<p>Any other suggestions or fixes would be appreciated.</p>
-
<p>Thanks for all the feedback. Jay, I like your idea so may go ahead and get the 4TB drive along with a safe. As a further redundancy I may also keep the Carbonite account, since that is completely off-site. The thought of fire or other similar damaging events hadn't occurred to me since I'm not a pro. However, losing my images as a result of something would, for lack of a better word, suck all the same.</p>
<p>Thanks again!</p>
-
<p>Hi, not sure if this is the correct forum but there isn't one I saw specific to this type of question. Since I'm "newer" I'll post it here and hope for the best. ;)</p>
<p>I'm looking for suggestions regarding digital storage. Now that I'm shooting strictly in RAW my hard drive has quickly filled and my 500GB remote HD is getting there. I'm started using Carbonite but it take forever to transfer files.</p>
<p>I've looked on B&H Photo's site and see there's a 4TB by WD - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/608030-REG/Western_Digital_WDH2NC40000N_4TB_My_Book_World.html</p>
<p>It's in a price-range I can afford and I can't imagine filling up that much space any time soon. At $60/yr for Carbonite is a good deal for unlimited backup, but again it's slow. Another factor is that my RAW files are out of my "system" so to speak.</p>
<p>What do you folks use for storage?</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Don</p>
-
<p>Thanks for all the pointers. The longest lens I now have is a 70-200 2.8L, no teleconverter, so I'm SOL for now on the mooning. The attached is the best I could get the other night.</p>
<p>Andrew - Incredible shots!</p><div>
</div>
Background systems...
in Beginner Questions
Posted
<p>Thanks for all the feedback. I like the idea of clamps and will go with that for now. That's why I ask!! ;)</p>
<p>D</p>