chris_conrad
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Posts posted by chris_conrad
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I've got an Asahi Pentax TTL prism and a Pentax TTL prism. While I don't know the exact ages of either, I would imagine they're both older than a decade. Both function identically (Just as the description above). When I'm metering, I push the switch to "ON" and it springs back to its resting position. The meter "times out" after about 20 seconds, then you simply have to push it "ON" again if you made some filter change or a light change, etc. One of my cameras has the "ring" and one doesn't. I wouldn't base a purchase decision on the absence of the ring--it's nice to have, but not necessary. You could actually use a rubber O-ring to slip over the speed dial--the purpose of the ring is just to make the speed dial bigger (larger diameter) so that you can switch it easier with the TTL prism attached (as it sits on top of and coordinates your speed dial with the aperture setting via the TTL prism).
Hope this helps!
~cc
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UPDATE: Problem Solved!
Well, just posting the question seemed to fix this one. I returned to the camera and figured it out:
I just had to push down on the lower take-up spindle in the camera, and it immediately reset to normal. Film is loaded and the film counter shows "1". Thanks!
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I know there's a similar message about the film counter stopping mid-
roll on the Pentax 67II, but this problem is a bit different:
I forgot I had a roll loaded, and I opened the camera back--oops.
Closed it and the camera allowed me to shoot the roll without any
mechanical problems. (The film fogged, of course).
Now, the film counter reads "END" but it won't reset to a new roll.
I wound an entire roll through the camera and no change. It cranked
each frame through, but never registered the film. Turned it off
and on several times. Removed the battery. Removed and replaced
lenses, etc. Right now, I'm stuck.....
Any help would be most appreciated.
THANKS!
~Chris
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Tom: So far, the polaroids are coming out quite crisp--I'm using Flash and hand-holding at 1/250 or 1/500 (leaf shutter lens). The awkward thing now is that the p-back keeps your eye about 1" from the viewfinder, so you have to really scrunch your face against the camera to focus. This is fine for my purposes, as I only intend to use it for the novelty and instant gratification snapshot or 2.......
~Chris
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Tom: Worked like a charm! Thanks so much for the help!
~Chris
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Pulled the dark-slide. No change.
~cc
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Well, the answer is no (about the dark-slide)....because I didn't see how there could be a relationship. Does removing the dark slide have a mechanical relationship with the camera? I just hate blowing 10 sheets of Polaroid film trying to figure this out, opening the back, etc....
Do you think that removing the dark slide will do the trick?
Chris
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Hey folks: I just got a rough, used NPC polaroid back for my 6x7
(which is also in rough condition). The back of the 6x7 was loose
when I bought it and I re-attached using heavy gauge wire--that
works just fine for film. Anyway, I was able to detach the film
door and attach the NPC back in the same manner. It just seems
there must be a "trick" to making the camera think it has film--
otherwise the shutter won't fire. Your help would be greatly
appreciated.
THANKS!
~Chris
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I have found the AE Pentraprism meter to be extremely accurate and dependable in the Multi-segment "Matrix" mode. I think it has 7-segment Matrix. Now that I've been using the meter for over a year, I feel very confident that I don't need to bracket in the Matrix mode (usually when I'm in a hurry or something).
The meter has Aperture priority which is amazingly easy. No shutter priority, but the visible meter in the viewfinder makes it easy to set your speed and adjust aperture manually to suit.....
I believe it will fit your street photography needs excellently.
cc
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Just another FYI or 2:
The 6x7 TTL prism requires your lens to be at its widest aperture when you connect the lens--otherwise the meter will not read accurately. Doesn't matter with the 67II--lens can be set to any aperture and the prism will read just fine.
I pop the prism off my 67II often because I like to preview the "full frame" when I'm shooting close to branches or other nuisance objects, and I can then tell if I'm excluding said object or not. Sometimes it seems cumbersome, but that's usually directly related to how little time I have 'til the light is gone....
cc
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The only difference I can tell is that the 67II fittings are raised away from the body by about 1/16" inch more. I can, however, trade straps from my 6x7 to my 67II without any problem.
cc
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I've been using Nikon Scan 3.1 without any problems with Photoshop CS. Here's the bright side though: If you use Nikon Scan as a stand-alone application, you can be photoshopping in one window and scanning a new image in Nikon Scan. I do that all the time for client's film(s). cc
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Oh, and I use 13x19 paper. I've never noticed a shortage. cc
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I print tons on Moab Paper Co's "Entrada Fine Art" dual-sided watercolor paper. It is the best matte paper I've ever seen. Also they make a proofing (non-cotton) version called "Kayenta Photo Matte". They're at www.moabpaper.com or www.inkjetgoodies.com.
They have custom ICC printer profiles for these papers on the web site, too for use with the Canon and Canon OEM inks. Give it a try. I've been using an S9000 with great success. cc
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Just FYI:
There will be a Photography Symposium in beautiful, Moab, Utah from
May 7 thru 9th, 2004.
You can see more info at this link:
http://www.moabcity.org/marc/photosym/
It promises to be a good show and hopefully a strong foundation for
an annual event. I know it's short notice, but hopefully we'll see
you there!
Chris
http://www.photo.net/shared/community-member.tcl?user_id=643757
properly mounting TTL prism
in Medium Format
Posted
67 and 6x7 models have a mechanical relationship between the TTL Prism and lenses. TTL prism must be mounted before attaching lens. Lens must be set to Maximum (widest) aperture before connecting.
If one removes the TTL prism while the lens is attached (to view the full frame for example), the lens must then be removed, TTL replaced, and lens replaced last.
~Chris