james_korolas

Noah, thanks for your quick response.

I love this tripod, just hate the big head. I want to replace it entirely with a pistol grip ball head I have, and right now it looks ridiculous with those two unnecessary knobs.

If I may, can you view the picture to make sure I'm following your advice correctly: I remove that screw where the red arrow is pointing and then use a rubber mallet to knock-off the old head?

Thanks again for your time!<div></div>

Anyone know how to remove the head from an old tiltall tripod (mine is the black

version, so it's not that old!).

I removed the screw, but it won't pull off, neither will it twist-off and I

don't want to force it in case I am missing something.

Thanks in advance!

Is there a website, or does someone have the info describing what each contact

on the nikon autofocus system is for?

Also, what communications protocol is used between the lens & camera cpu?

Yes, I'm in a hacking mood and have some old lenses from Konica and some MF and

LF cameras that I want to make autofocus or at least pass the focal length and

F-stop info to the camera.

I know, I could just grab a broken nikon lens with similar F-stop and focal

length settings and put that mount & chip onto the existing lens, but thats

cheating! :)

Thanks for your time.

-James

Hi,

I just got this nice Nikon Nikkor 35-135mm f3.5-4.5 AF lens and am wondering if

anyone knows where I can get the online instructions (or if someone can scan

their's and email it to me), I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance for your help.

I have a Vivitar mirror 500mm f5.6 manual T2 mount lens that I want to

use with my D50, but the D50 won't engage the shutter when I press it.

WHat am I doing wrong? I tried to different t2 adapters to no avail!

I have an adapter to use my old Pentacon 6 Medium Format lenses on

my Pentax H1a. Is there a "conversion factor" or formula I need to

know about, such as when using Pentax film camera lenses on a

digital body?

I have two nice lenses (a 180mm and a 250mm) and want to know what

the equavilent focal length would be on my camera.

I guess what I'm asking is if a 180mm lens on a Medium Format lens

will cover a 6x6 cm film negative, what does that translate to on

a .24cm X .34cm 35mm frame?

Thanks in advance!

-James

Firstly, my thanks to (in order of contribution) Brooks, Jim, Barry and Philip for their replies.

Secondly, according to the link at Shutterbug provided by Philip, it states that the PortaFlash has a 1/60 shutter speed. So, my question is that since my camera has a maximum flash sync speed of 1/30, would I have to double the f-stop opening to compensate? eg. if the Portaflash recommends f5.6, would I use that, or f8/f11?

I guess you all could tell I'm a real newbie when it comes to flash photography!

Thanks again!

James

Hi.

One of my strap lugs is kind of broken -- it doesn't always stay

attached to the pin on the camera.

I saw on eBay that Pentax MF camera straps _seem_ to have the same

sized lugs as on my Kiev 60's strap, but none of the sellers I have

contacted are familiar with the Kiev and could not tell me if it

would work.

Does anyone know if the lugs from a Pentax MF strap will fit a Kiev?

Thanks in advance!

-james

Hi.

I purchased a used Portaflash Flash Meter but it came with no

instructions.

I'm smart enough to figure out that I put this meter by the subject

I am photographing (still life - plants, inanimate objects) and fire

a test flash. I then read it and adjust my aperture accordingly.

This makes sense, but how do I know what shutter speed to select???

For example, I received a reading of f5.6 +2/3 @ 100iso. Ok, I

understand this means that I set my aperture at f5.6 or even f8, but

should my shutter speed be set at my camera's maximum X-sync speed?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I just want to make sure I'm

using this correctly, or if my meter is defective.

Thanks in advance!

-James

I inheirited a National PE-387S flash unit (I'm told it's made by

Panasonic).

I know it has a thyristor and it seems like a fairly good unit, but

I'm not 100% sure that I'm operating it correctly as I have no

manual for it (I've never used one of these higher-end flashes, so

all the buttons on the back seem intimidating).

Does anyone have one of these and know how to use it? Better still,

does anyone have the instructions they can scan and email to me? I

checked craigcamera.com, but no luck.

Thanks in advance for any repsonses.

-James<div></div>

Hi.

I have a Strobonar 880 and Sunpak 510v rechargeable battery.

Unfortunately, I don't have the charger.

My question is, if I buy the QBC-5 charger, will this charge the

battery directly, or do I need to buy the Sunpak Powerpack #1723 as

well?

I could answer this question myself if someone has one of these QBC-

5 units, and tells me what the specifications are (voltage and

amps/milli-amps output)?

Thanks in advance for any help!

-James

I'm new to MF and Kiev 60, but I would like to know what the

reasoning is behind synchronizing the shutter speed at 1/30 second?

I hear that this is good and this is bad.

If it is good, why?

If it's bad, why?

Don't critisize, please, just your thoughts on this.

Thanks,

James

<hr><i><b>Before you read this question, DON'T respond if you're

going to pan my choice of camera, or tell me to use a handheld meter!

</b></i>

<hr>

<br>

I have a Kiev 60 and TTL Meter (both manufactured in 1988). <b>This

is the older non-spot meter</b>. It came with four LR44 batteries in

it, but I believe that this is wrong.

<br><br>

I'm told I need a 4.5volt battery (that should be THREE LR44

batteries, but they would be way to loose in there).

<br><br>

Anyone know the real battery I would need? If I know this, then I

can make one up with the appropriate voltage and dimensions using

button cell batteries.

<br><br>

Thanks!<br>

-James

I guess my idea of inexpensive is different than yours... :)

The cheapest I could find is: $79.00 at Digital Photo Club (http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/main_item.asp?id=786352133) and I'm not sure it will work in my battery pack, so I might have to buy the Sunpak battery pack for $70.00 (http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/main_item.asp?id=786352134)...

I think I'd rather go with a step-up DC-to-DC convertor. I've found one circuit that will take 9vdc to 120vdc, but I have read of several on the Internet that will take 6, 9 or 12vdc to 600vdc (but no luck with finding schematics).

If anyone knows where I can get that schematic, I'd really appreciate it.

Regards!<div></div>

Hi, does anyone know where to buy this 510v battery for this camera.

I realize it must be expensive, so, my next question is, does anyone

know of an existing device, or the schematics to a device that will

take a 9.6/7.2/6.0volt battery pack and step up the voltage?

I know, a truly simple question, but I don't know who/where else to

ask.

Thanks!

-james

Hi, I'm hoping someone here has had a Honeywell Strobonar 772 and

had to replace the little ready light.

What kind is it?

I know, a truly simple question, but I don't know who/where else to

ask.

Thanks!

-james

Here's a webpage with 3 more pictures and descriptions:

<p><strong><a href="http://home.golden.net/~jkorolas/mystery/mystery.htm">http://home.golden.net/~jkorolas/mystery/mystery.htm</span></a></strong></p>

<p>What a great mystery challenge this has turned into for me!</p>

-James

The nameplate on an old LF folding plate camera I have been given

was missing. So, here is what I have as clues to model/manufacturer:

The ring around the lens says:

Doppel Anastigmat Eurynar 1:4.5 - f=13.5 cm No 192939 G.

Rodenstock Munchen

On the lensboard, above the word COMPUR it says:

D.R.P. No 258646 D.R.G.M.

Any ideas? I'm willing to bet it's something from Contessa-Nettel,

but I would not bet any money on it.

I'm willing to email pictures if it's of any help, but you'll get no

more from them other than what I've stated.

Thanks in advance for any help!<div></div>