giorgio_bianchi

I'm new to Eos, coming from FD. I have a 1N with 28-105 3.5-4.5 USM

II. All I want now is to have another zoom in the 80-200 range (70-

200 or 75-300 may be ok too). I may use this camera and lenses for

social and portraiture photography, and eventually for my personal

projects -though for that I rely on my FD equipment-.

So I want to buy a medium tele zoom for close-ups primordially. I

don't want to spend more than 200-250$, and will want a decent

optical quality- al least like the old FD 80-200 4.

Betweem the canon lenses options are 80-200 (but is not USM), 100-300

USM, and 75-300 USM (not IS) or 90-300? , but may be a Sigma or

Tokina, I have never try them. Wich one do you reccomend me?

 

Uhm.. sorry if this kind of question has been posted so many times..

Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

GB

well I make another question, since we are already here...The "one over focal lenght rule" does "applies" for zoom lenses? (I have been using only fixed focal) I have heard that you need to consider the largest focal length in doing so- say if you are using a 50-500, the minimum recommended shutter speed is 1/500 and not 1/60- Does it make sense? Not to me... shutting with this lens at 1/250 will give you a sharp image I think. Is not that I always follow the "rule", but as said before, it is a starting point.

I have an A1 and the FL bellows. I tell you how I work with them: since the A1 needs to have an FD lens in front to made the correct metering, using FL bellow implies you have to stop-down the lens to make the metering (takinng care when you put the lens in front of the bellow, to have the stop-down level in the bellow all way to the right) - thats ok, but it is not the only way to do it.

when you leave the A1 with no lens in front of it (or with an FL lens attached to it), the camera meter behaves as if the lens had a maximun aperture of f5.6. So what I do is the following: when using The A1 with Fl bellow and FD lens I take note of the maximun aperture of the lens and I control the ASA and the OVER-exposure dials to make an OVEREXPOSURE of as many f-stops as is the f-stop difference between 5.6 and the maximun aperture of the lens used.

For example when using the 135 f2, you have to overexpose 3 stops.

 

The meter reading when doing this is the REAL reading. You can compare it with the meter reading done stopping down. Of course this won't help you much when using larger apertures than 5.6, but when doing macro photos you will want to close the diaphragm. The advantages I see is than I can FOCUS and do the METERING with the lens WIDE OPEN. Of course if you want to have an idea of the "depth of field", just stop down the lens, hoping you can see something! ;)

 

OH! when changing the lens be careful to adjust the ASA and Overexposure dials to the correct position!

 

Have Fun!

 

GB

I can only tell you can use the FT QL camera with "newer" FD lenses in stop down mode to do the metering. Anyway, the FL lenses do close the diaphragm blades when you turn the diaphragm ring, so the "stop down metering" is the actual way the FTQL works with FL lenses.

I had this camera as my first Reflex last year, and when I got my A1 few months later I was "impressed" as I could meter without stopping down the lens! I tell you I still use the old FTQL (with my FD lenses) because it's all mechanical, specially when making long exposures; though I'm looking for an FTb, wich is an improvement of the FTQL, in the sense that the metering is done with the diaphragm wide open.

 

Good Luck!

 

GB

Ok, I'm here again asking about mount adapters. I Wonder if there

exist an adpater for mounting OM Zuiko lenses on Canon manual bodies

with FD mount.

 

GB

Ok, finally it came out! :) . I tell you: I tried the refrigerator, the rubber surface, a table-top wrench... with no succes. Today I went to a camera shop of confidence, and they couldn't pull it out with the filter wrenchs, until a guy with the only help of his know-how-to-do-it hands and a rubber surface pulled it out. It's still a mistery to me how it works...

 

Thanks again for your suggestions! I'll find some silicon to help the next time it will get stuck. Though I think filter get more chance to get stucked on the lens when you leave it so much time in front of it, Is it right?

 

GB

Ok, here I am. Well I tell you I used a kind of table top wrench! uhm forcing it a bit... and nothing. Yes it seems to be threated correctly, as far as I can see, but it may have stayed there untouched for some years I think. Thats why it doesn't screw out with very little pressure as with some others filters. When I said I dismanteled the lens, I meant I screwed out the front metal cilinder of this lens, where the filter is attached, I didn't touch the glasses! By the way, I konw B+W filters have some nice features... but they are hard to find in here... and they cost some more!

 

Thanks for your suggestions. I think I will send the lens to some camera shop, and I'm seeing the filter breaking down :(

Thanks for your response. The filter only says CCB 3x, no other number anywhere... But yes, I think it should be an 80B (for its blue color is medium dark). Anyway I may do some test shots with slide film.

 

GB

Hi , I recently purchase an old nikon fm, it cames with a 50mm f1.8

nikkor lens that has an Hoya skylight filter stuck in front of it!!.

I dismanteled the lens, so to have the front piece out of it, and

tried to take out the filter... but no succes! :(

 

Any suggestion??

Really don't wnat to break the filter... it's in good shape!

GB

Hi, when I purchased an used canon A1 last year, it cames with some

filter. One of those filters was a Canon C.C.B. filter. It is colored

blue and has silver ring, the exposure factor is 3x. I wonder if this

filter is a conversion filter from the 80 series.

Anyone of you have some info about this filter?

Thnas for your help.

GB

Hi guys,

I'm a canon user since I got my first SRL (an old FTQL), and have

some FD lenses. I'm thinking now to buy some nikon body with few

lenses to try it out. I wonder if there is a mount converter so I can

use the nikon lenses (manual focus) into canon manual focus (FD)

bodies. I have heard of T-mount P-mount and N-mount converters. I

guess the N-mount converter will be for nikon lenses, but I´m not

shure. If any of you have had some experience with this, I´d like to

know if the focal length of nikon lenses remains the same when

attached to a canon body via the mount converter. The autoexposure

modes of the canon bodies may be fooled with this lens convertion,

but I think this is not a big problem.

 

If you can attach nikon lenses to canon bodies, I guess is also

possible to mount FD lenses to manual focus Nikon bodies, Is this

true?

 

PS: since I'm not nikon user, I don't have much knoledge about the

nikon labels for manual focus lenses (AI, AIS,...) , only that they

all use the shared F-mount

 

Thanks in advance,

GB

since I own my A1's (eight months) I have used 4LR44, an alkaline battery that I can find almost everywhere (not so easy to find as the AA, tough). But the problems I had with these batteries is they last so little! I have count how much last the last one I used: 22 rolls of 36 exposures, including 2-4 rolls where exposures of 30" were made and also a few exposures of 2-4 minutes. I know long exposures take the battery life downwards. For this reason I reccomend to you to take at least a pair of spare batteries with you if you are using this type of batteries. Just yestarday I lose a pair of great shots beacause I forgot the spare batterie! .... Actually it was at the end of the bag :( ... silly me! What I haven't found yet is the lithium battery, but think it would a better choice, for its durability.

 

Godd Luck!

 

GB

First of all: the siemens star is not a filter, it is a pattern for lens testing (In spanish is said "estrella de siemens" so I think siemens star is the correct translation...).

 

Second: no finger at all, the camera was standing on top af a tripod ... wich really keeps me thinking if a tripod leg was interfering with the lens vision... I remember I took care on that, but this woulkd explain why at smaller apertures the spot is bigger - foolish me if this is the reason

 

Third: the viewfinder shows 93% vertical and 95% horizontal image, and the black spot is greater than 7% of the image area.

 

Fourth: I've checked the camera, and (as I expected) everything is clean between the mirror and the shutter curtain, all that is in there is the little nut where the mirror stays when is down side

 

Fifth: unfortunately I can send an example on line only in a couple of weeks, beacause I'm just going away home now.

 

Thanks for all your comments!

 

PS: I will do another test with the lenses to see if the tripod leg was the reason for this. I'll advice you any experience.

I found myself last days playing with two lenses and a siemens star.

When I get tha (B&W) negatives developed, I found the right-bottom

corner of the pictures becomes darken when I stopped down the lenses

(the others corner being well exposed). I was using a canon A1 with

two lenses for the test: Hoya 80-200 f4 HMC, with pictures taken at

f4, f8 and f16, the most "vignetting" ocurring at f16, but also

occuring at f4.

Canon 200 f2.8 N , exposed at f2.8, f8 and f32, at f2.8 the right-

bottom corner is dimly darker than the rest; at f32 the corner being

black (but not so worse than the Hoya at f16).

 

Both lenses were used at closest focusing distance (1.9m for the

Hoya, 1.8m for the canon)

 

This seems very strange to me. I really don't know if this is a

common problem (in wich case I admit I don't understand why "only one

corner"??), or if it is a camera or lens problem. Looking with the

lens stopped down (using the depth of field preview), I can't see ANY

corner darker than the rest, so it seems not to be a lens problem...

 

I have to add that these days I used to take some macro shots using

bellows, and using very small diaphragm -using none of 200mm lenses-

The pictures went well exposed- no vignetting- so I think is not a

camera problem...

 

I wonder what is happening here?? :(

 

Have any of you experienced this kind of problem?

 

Thanks in advance, GB

I bought a canon A1 8 monyhs ago in nearly mint condition. Since then

is working properly with nothing going wrong.

I was told recently to be careful with this camera, beacause the

ELECTRONIC CIRCUIT of it is rather delicate, and if it goes wrong,

there is no way back, and you can throw away the camera. You know,

the A1 is an electronic camera that does not work anyway without

batteries.

Does anybody of you have any such a problem with the A1, or knows if

this is true?

 

Also, I live in a damp place, but I try to keep the camera away from

humidity, I know this may harm the electronics in long term...

 

Thanks, GB