yossi_gofman

<A href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=1833117">http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=1833117</A>

Lex, however do you manage to fall asleep every night with *that* under your bed????? :-)

 

And the point, I guess, is like every other thread - to share and compare, so whoever has one is welcome to contribute and the rest are more then welcome to critique :-)

<A href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=1831430&size=lg">http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=1831430</A>

Get the VR! By all means get the VR!!!!!!!

I have a PB-6 and have had problems mounting it on both F90x and D100 due to the hand grip. I was also concerned about the contacts.

 

The solution I found to work OK is to use an extension ring (PK-13 in my case) between the camera body and the bellows. Tried it on both F90x and D100 and it works great.

Does anyone know where I can buy (by buy I mean in stock) a 24-120VR

on the Internet?

 

Looking for this lens at BH and Adorama seems to be an exercise in

futility.

Mark,

 

Once you make your decision and deside to buy one, please let the rest of us know where this lens can acrually be bought (not at B&H and not at Adorama for sure).

Can anybody please advise on a good procedure for fill-flash shots

with a D100 using SB-80DX (oter that setting on P and letting the

Nikon vooddo do its thing)?

 

Thanks in advance.

Also be aware that many of the smaller operators give you the price for the body only. Then when you try to place an order they tell you that you also need the battery and the strap an oh the usb cable and yes the charger and god forbid don't forget the CDs. Eventually the overall deal at B&H is better.

There is not current trend or crime vawe of stealing photo equipment in Israel.

Hey, I live less than 20Km from the place - so ask away.

Dave,

 

While you're at it maybe it's also a good time to reopen the phnograph vs. CD debate again? :-)

In macro photography you'd probably want to fcus manually anyway since you'd want just the right part to be in focus. The depth of field is low so the autofocus is usually quite lame.

People diverted this topic to Sigma whereas the problem really has to do with the D100. See my previous <a href=http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0057uP>poting</a> on a similar problem with a Nikkor lens.

 

Can't say I found a solution yet so if anybody can help with this please let me know.

Chris,

 

I have a D100 for 6 month now and never saw anything like this. The response is always crisp and immediate.

 

One thing that you might want to check is the focus setting. Try shooting with the focus set to manual and see if the problem persists.

Douglas,

 

You might want to wait for the AF Zoom Nikkor 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR which is probably going to be <B><U>the</U></B> thing for D100. Together with the AF 12-24mm f/4G ED-IF DX AF-S (also due soon) this will probably be a complete set.

I have a PB-6 for years and have done lots of interesting shots with it. IMHO the PB-6 is it!

Tom,

 

I have similar problems with MF-26. The batteries do have to be fresh and the contacts of the back and the body must be clean.

 

One thing I found to work well. When replacing batteries I let the MF-26 "rest" in between. I take the old batteries out, let the MF-26 completely discharge all residual chrge for about 30 seconds (it seems to have a small capacitor inside) and then install the fresh ones. With my MF-26 it works every time. After such a replacement I have about 6 month of perfect operation.

Gerald - the F90x is working perfectly (even with this lens).

 

JS - Yes, as I said in the original posting - the lens was at minimum and locked.

I have a Nikkor 80-200 1:4.5-5.6D which works perfect on my F90x.

The body recognizes it as a CPU lens, 3D metering is enabled and

generally all is well. When I plug this lens into my D100 (of course

with aperture fully closed and locked) I get a flashing FFE which

means the lens is not recognized as a D type lens.

 

When I use other D and G type lenses on this D100 body again all

works well and of course all other D type lenses work fine on my

F90x.

 

At this point I am not even sure which one to blame. Is it the lens

or the D100 body?

 

All ideas are highly appreciated. TIA.

Thanks Duane. This is right on the spot.

I am really in terested to know in detail how VR technology works.

 

I understand the VR lenses measure angular speed of the camera in

pitch and yaw and then the camera (or the lens) does something to

correct for this. At steady rates like panning any axis can be left

without correction. And thats about it.

 

I'd appreciate any and all inputs and relevant URLs which can

provide some more techinical details on this.

 

Thanks in advance.

Sam,

 

I know how you feel! I have an FG, an N90 and a D100 and quite frequently I use the FG over the others. While not autofocus shy, in certain situations its simpler, faster and more predictable to focus manually and as you said in your posting, I don't mind banging it a little.

 

I was facing the same dilemma a few month ago trying to decide on a new Nikon body. For me the answer was that at this time and for my needs the best option is to go digital - hence the D100.

 

If you still want to stick to film I'd say the F100 is probably the best choice for a new camera. While the N90 is a superb camera and a real workhorse, it is beginning to be obsolete. It will not take the newer Nikon G type lenses for example, but that's Nikon's new trend with lenses - so more and more of these should be expected in the next few years.

 

Bottom line - D100 or F100!

This is a Nikon forum - so what naswer do you expect? :-)

j h pakos,

 

If you're new to flash photograpgy and want to get it right, IMHO the <b>best</B> refernce (and well worth the $14) is Thom Hogans

<a href=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1883403847/qid=1051089718/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-0497123-2087802?v=glance&s=books>Magic Lantern Guides: Nikon Flash Guide: The Definitive Speedlight Reference</a>.