albert3

<p>HI,<br>

I too am in the same process and found some nice deals on ebay. Was wondering if anyone could tell me anything about serial numbers starting with 0 for the 5d? I thought that they started with 1. Owner said was purchased about 15 mos ago.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

EP Levine on Drydock ave in boston 617 941-1499

You may consider upgrading a little of both. I don't have experience with the 5D, but I do have both the 20D and 400D. Both of these cameras are excellent. If using for hiking the 400D or 350D would be nice choices due to the size and weight. The 20D has very nice noise performance with the 400D being only sligtly behind. I suspect that the 350D and 30D are very similar to the 20D. So for the money you would spend on a 5D you could probably sell the one or two of the lenses you have and update thoses lenses and get a new body. Any of the bodies listed above would give you much noticed improvement over the 10D, and give you more than satisfactory performance at 13x19 and beyond. I think you said it in your post. Dumping some of those lenses and getting some L glass would be my vote and to help save the money I would go with one of the 1.6 crop factor bodies and spend the money on the lenses. As for easier wide angle. I hear the 10-22 ef-s lens is great. I just purchased it but have not got it yet. I do plan on eventually getting a full frame body and may eventually have to sell it, but this to me is the best solution for now. Anyway it probably will be good to keep a 1.6 body in the future just for the help on the tele end.

 

Good Luck

I have and use the econo kit which I think works really well and is not too much. It works on most of the dust problems encountered. For the times when I need more thorough cleaning I use eclipse solution and sensor swab. Very easy and have run into no problems thus far.

Sorry to hijack the thread and sorry to Alistair. Please redirect my comments to the post just before Alistair.

 

P.S. I am a previous suporter of photo.net and intend to in the future

 

Thanks for reminding me to support

Not a nice one Alistair!

 

If you have nothing better to say than a comment about how one should perform a search before posting a question than why do you bother. Honestly if you don't want to answer a question because someone should perform a search first, just stay off the post. Those of us willing to help someone out will be glad to answer.

 

As to the original post, although I do not have this lens I have been considering this among some others such as the 24-105 f4 LIS and the 10-22 and have many good responses regarding this lens. It does seem like a nice range with 2.8 and IS. If it is what people say it is then it seems well worth the mony given other similar non ef-s lenses. Good luck.

I agree with Dave. It sounds like you have some skill, so don't sell yourself short. Not everyone wants to spend $5000 on a wedding photographer so if you advertise a price and someone makes an inquiry you can meet with them, show them what you have, and if they like it they will hire you.

Here is 1600. Also checkout camera labs review.

I took these test shots at circuit city for a quick look at the noise before buying.

I was just wondering if someone could explain to me why when you dial in minus

FEC on the canon 580EX the effective distance range meter on the flash increases.

I think they should just keep this thread going it's amusing.

I'm trying to understand how to use the canon 580ex flash in manual

mode with a flash meter. If I understand correctly you measure the

flash at full power and you get a reading of say 5.6. My question

is then what do you do with that info. In the manual mode the flash

has settings in terms of power ie 1/2 etc. How do you know what to

set the flash for after taking a reading. This is probably a very

stupid question but I am just beginning to learn flash.

 

Thanks in advance

In regards to previous responses the current technology of inkjet prints offers longevity nearly twice that of fuji crystal archive. In addition there is no reason that a print finished in the digital dark room is not its own unique piece. The only difference is the methods to which we are achieving the end product of beautifull prints. So I say that if you can create beautifull inkjet prints then customers will respond to the quality of the image. I quess you just have to educate your consumers regarding the quality that they are getting from any new technology.

Thanks for all the great and timely responses. I guess I have to figure if the extra $150 give or take is worth it beitng from what it sounds like that the Epson 1280 indeed makes good prints. If anyone reads this and wants to comment on anything they heard about rumors of the new epson printers that would be great. I read some info about a new 2200 but nothing replacing the 1280.

I know thera are plenty of threads regarding these printers, but I

am going to ask anyway. Does anyone have first hand experience

comparing the Epson 1280 with the Canon I9900 printers soley in

terms of print quality? My concern is that the Epson is old

technology and the Canon prints are much better given the positive

reviews. The price difference after rebate on the Epson will be

about $150. I like the Epson due to reviews I've read paper options

and panorama capability. It seems like it was "the" printer of it's

time, but can't get over the reviews of the i9900 prints. Do the

Epson prints still compare? I would appreciate any recommendations

and information about using other papers on the Canon.

 

Thanks in advance.

I have been asked by a friend to photograph her mother's 90th

birthday party. This will be indoors in a large room with high

ceilings. I'm not sure yet what type of ambient lighting there

will be. It is during the day but not sure of the amount of windows

or type of lighting. I have a Canon system with an Elan 7, 300D,

420EX, 70-200 L IS, and 17-40. I Have access to a stroboframe. My

questions are 1. What lens should I use for posed shots? 2. What is

the best way to go about lighting without multiple flash, stands

umbrellas etc.? 3. Will products such as omni bounce or reflectors

from lumiquest have a good effect? 4. What camera settings should I

be using ie f stops, metering, flash etc. or what are some good

links to information? 5. What film? I do have some money for some

additional equipment if anyone has any suggestions. I am always

looking for excuses to get equipment!

I just purchased a 70-200 L IS lens and am using it on a digital

rebel. I was wondering if anyone had any experience of any problems

with this lens? My main concern is with the IS mechanism. It seems

to be louder than it should and the image in the viewfinder seems to

jump when IS kicks in. Otherwise the IS seems to work fine. I'm

trying to convince myself that I am neurotic and that everything is

fine. Are theses noises and actions normal for the lens? Any help

would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Jeff A.

Well, I went with the purchase of the 70-200 IS version. I am going to try this with a 1.4 and probably a 2x TC. Even though the combination has not received very good reviews I thing it will probably be usable, at least until I can purchase a longer tele. Maybe the 400 5.6.

Michael Reichman at luminous-landscape.com has posted a review comparing this exact combination. He has stated that the 100-400 performs much better than the 70-200 with the 2x TC. I thing the performance of the 1.4X TC with the 70-200 is good.

Thanks for all the responses. I think I'll have to save a little more and get the IS.

Stephen,

My reasoning was the same. I felt that IS would not do anything to counteract small vibrations such as mirror slap, when on a tripod, but the canon website states that this new generation IS will do just that. I don't know if anyone has any practical experience with this.

I am going to purchase in the near future either the 70-200 f/2.8 L

or the IS version and was trying to decide wether or not the IS was

worth it for me. I do shoot mostly from a tripod, but do

occasionally hand hold when taking portraits and such. My main

question in consideering the IS version regards information that the

new 2nd generation IS technology is improved and allows hand holding

at 3 stops slower and also can be used on a tripod as well as will

dampen vibration of mirror slap. If this was true I also thought it

would help on really windy days when stabilizing my tripod is

challenging. Does anyone know if this information is true or have

experience with using this lens in these situations?

I thought that EF-S lenses were compatible with both the 300D as well as the 10D.