christian_kloumann

<p>Michael and Jose: Thank you for answering me.<br /> Hmm..So one with electric/magnetic (tiny) "click" and one without...<br /> Jose: I can also hear (very tiny) the spring itself, but the electric/magnetic sound here is a little bit/sightly "louder"..<br /> Mine (absolute mint) has the serial number 227939</p>

<p>Hi from Norway :-)<br>

I have just bought a mint condition Nikon MD-4 motor for my F3 camera.<br>

I just had to get one again, because it brings back a lot of good memories from the 80´s.</p>

<p>To someone of there, which still has a MD-4, could you be so kind and check one little detail for me ?<br>

With batteries:<br>

1) Just take the MD-4, without the camera attached, and turn the mode selector to S or C.<br>

2) Then put the MD-4 motor close to your ear.<br>

3) When you push the trigger button half way down there is no sound.<br>

4) But when you then take your finger away from the trigger button, comes there now a tiny little electric/magnetic "click-sound"? <br>

5) The same tiny little click-sound also comes when I take my finger away, after pushing the battery-check button. Is it so at yours also?<br>

With the battery-chamber removed, there are no sound when 4) and 5)</p>

<p>This is just a detail, of course, but it would give a good feeling knowing if this is how it should be.<br>

Thank you :-)<br>

Christian</p>

<p> </p>

There is also another Hasselblad 93 mm pola-filer on the marked: The 41645.

 

The newest, the 41646, replaced the 41645 some years ago. I owned a 41645 before I bought the 41646, but now I

can not remember the exact difference between them. The answer has probably to do with the Hasselblad

professional lensshade, that also has been produced in different models, for combination with CF40/4 and/or

FE350/4. I know I have scanned the user manual for the 41465, but I can't find it... Little info about the 41645 on the

internet, but I found one shop that sells them both:

http://www.audiophilfoto.de/index2.php?open=203&loc=2&typ=3&herst=16&lang=_fr

Your Hasselblad 80mm can be used in combination with extension tubes, yes. Also with the automatic bellow. Even lenses with shorter focal lenght can be used :-)

 

The Hasselblad-system have two macro-lenses. The 4/120mm and the 5.6/135mm. (The 135mm could only be used in combination with the bellow, or the special variable extension tube)

Hi, Flarvig.

 

There is no electric connection between the Hasselblad PME51-finder and the camera/lens. It only shows the information of its metering, based on the incoming light and ISO-value, to you. With the help of this information you must set an EV-value (or shutter/aperture-combination) yourself.

Hi, Vick

 

As you probably know, the production of the PCP80 projector and lenses came to an end some years ago. The lenses came with matching condensors, and these are no longer available from Hasselblad. In consequence, the value of the lenses 75, 150 and 250 sold separately also depends on the present of the matching condensor-lenses.

 

If you have both the 250mm and 250 condensor-lens, make an auction at Ebay. I will be one of the bidders :-)

Hi, Marco

 

Here you can find it: http://www.urmonas.net/manuals/500cm/500cm.html

 

CK

Hello Arthur.

 

The CF/CFE 40 is the perfect lens in combination with the unique Hasselblad 1.4x PC-Mutar. It makes +/- 16mm shift possible.

Hi, Gary

 

First, I hope not the procedure of pre-adjustment will scare you away for getting a PC-Mutar. It is my favorite Hassy-supplement, and matches my PCP80-projectors, which also have perspective control. Lovely to see the frame moving up and down, keeping the lines straight ;-)

 

The PC-Mutar can be used with all lenses form 40mm to 100mm. With 40-80 you can use the full 16mm shift, both up and down. But with a 100mm you must be within 8mm up and down.

 

Before using it for the first time, you must use some time following a procedure for adjusting/tune the double-release (screw).

If you change camera model, or lens, you should check the procedure again. I have only used it with to of my lenses, the CF40 and CFE80, and I have checked I can switch between them without adjusting the double release. But if change from my 2000FCW (focal plane shutter) to for example a 503 or 500ELX I must re-adjust.

 

The reason is the importance of the order of the (many) different events during an exposure with the PC-Mutar:

The double release shall first close the shutter in the lens. Then it should trig the camera for the mirror-up and the back light-doors. Then the shutter in the lens should fire. If the double release is not adjusted accurately, the order of the sequense could be wrong.

 

Bring a lot of warm clothes with you and take a trip to Oslo and Norway to try it! :-)

Hi Gary

 

The reason for my words about the tuning-screws was due to your question for opinions of ease of use.

 

The 1.4x PC-Mutar was made to fit all the 500-, 500EL*, 2000, and 200-series cameras, and the F- , CF(i/e) -lenses.

 

The 1.4x PC-Mutar has a double cable-release, and due the order of operations from touch of the release to the final exposure presuppose that it is adjusted for the actual combination.

 

One of the cords of double cable-release interacts with the camera, and the other with the lens. These has to be synchronized with respect to the order of operations. These are both camera- and lens- dependent.

 

Plese tell me if you want me go in more detail.

 

Sunshine from Norway

Hi Gary

 

I have the 1.4x PC-Mutar. I live in Norway and have the Swedish user manual. If you want it, I can scan it and send it to you.

 

The PC-Mutar demands somewhat thoughtfulness and handiness. You can't just mount it and shoot. It must be fine-tuned to your camera by adjusting screws. And after each shot you must re-cock the in-build spring whith the gear-lever handle.

 

Despite this: For me it represent the very best in opical and mechanical quality. It is a true pearl indeed.

Positive (+) end first, yes.

 

The diameter of the batteries are a bit smaller in the positive end, and if you put them in backwards, the door of the battery-chamber will not close. (Correctly inserted you will feel the batteries have spring).

Hi, Robert. Sorry. Use

 

Name: free

 

Password: manuals

Hi, Paul

 

Here it is: http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/manuals/pages/Hassy501CM.pdf

 

CK

I have sent a zip-file (English) to you now ;-)

Enjoy!

I have sent a copy to you also ;-)

 

CK

I have sent a copy to you now.

 

Best regards

Hi graphite

 

Congratulation with a PCP80. I have three of them ;-)

 

I also have the original manual, but the language is Swedish...

But if you want, I can use a Zip-compression and send the pictures to your mail address (apprx 4,6 MB)

 

Sunshine from Norway

Christian

Hi Bruce.

 

Yes, I use anti-newton glass from GePe.

 

CK

This phenomena occurs when you use lenses with apprx. aperture 5.6 or slower, or using extension tubes, teleconverter and so.

Or maybe you have locked the aperture in stop-down mode?'

 

Anyway, sometimes you can still use the split-image in this situation by moving your eye a little bit around, looking down the view-finder.

In Sweden:

 

http://www.scandinavianphoto.se/

A specialist necessary!

 

Theoretically four possible combinations can be made with:

 

Hasselblad 93 Polarization filters #41646 (newest) and #51422 (older)

Hasselblad Professional Lens shades T6093 (newest) and the #40726

(older)

 

One of them is easy to verify: The new #41646 with T6093.

 

But what about the other three?

 

1) #41646 with #40726

2) #51422 with T6093

3) #51422 with #40726

 

 

Christian

The Imacon 848 is the very best there is, if

 

1) original slides is an important end-product for you, for example if you love the magic of slide-shows with multiple projectors.

 

2) you want the best alternative for working further with the many slides/negatives you already have.

 

If this is not so important, or your primary attention is fully at the digital possibilities, I would go for a digital back.

 

Sunshine from Norway

Hi again, Doug

 

Thank you for kind words. It is a pleasure for me to share thoughts with you also. On Norwegian discussing-sites of photo, I now sometimes feel it is to much quarrels about advantage/disadvantage of PC's and Mac's respectively.

 

I bring my medium format camera to the summits on many high peaks and down close into the vegetation in Norwegian forests. The characteristic of the medium format camera makes me use more time thinking about placing and composition. And the result, the brilliant medium format slide, nearly calls out to be projected.

 

Shall we discuss more delicate details? Yes!

As you probably have noticed, the glasses themselves, in the two parts of the slide-frame, are not 100% fixed but have some slack. If you shake one part before mounting you hear the movement of the glass. In the process of cleaning the glass, this opens the possibility for 4x narrow rectangles to remain dirty. Before cleaning the main surface of the glass inside, I for this reason start cleaning these four areas. I use tapping to force the glass down. Then I put pressure on the glass to prevent it to move, and then wipes the opposite part. And then repeat for the remaining sides.

Hi Doug.

 

Also new glass mounts have a kind of foggy film on the glasses, yes. You write that use eyeglass cleaner to remove this. But even if you wipe the glass clean several times using towels, there is a chance that some liquid/fluid finds its way under the metal frame inside. Then a possible source for moisture inside. But if you just add a tiny bit on the towel first the chance is minimal of course.

 

My recipe is using a lot of clean fabrics or "handkerchiefs", in combination with breathing close to the glass, adding some humidity in cases of "obstinate" foggy film.

 

After the initially removing of the foggy film, the process of removing dust is the clue. Rubbing could create frictional electricity, in worst case as a small magnet for dust-particles.

 

A lot of work but really worth it, yes!