laptoprob

<p>You could try these guys. Don't know them myself. http://www.mkoptics.net/<br /> Looking for something special? There is an M4 with Summicron and Summaron for 750 euros on Marktplaats now...</p>

<p>Yes and no: there is no mirror shake. But the m4/3 cameras aren't rangefinders. The viewfinder helps in low light because the image is corrected for exposure. It becomes as light or dark as the actual exposure. So you can see the depth of focus without the image becoming darker like on a SLR.<br>

The GF1 focusses faster because of the high frame rate, the Olympus cameras have IS.</p>

<p>At Cameraquest.com I guess.</p>

<p>@Miles S:<br>

Because the shutter cloth is about 3mm closer to the lens than the film plane, a close focused sun will actually burn quicker than at infinity focus.</p>

<p>Tried it like I stated. Trust me or test it out for yourself!</p>

 

<p>I did a live test some years afo, posted on RFF.<br>

A 50/1,2 burns instantly. At f4 it takes less than 10 seconds. IIRC ofcourse.<br>

Surprising conclusion is that a close focused lens burns faster because the shutter is in front of the film plane.</p>

<p>Be very careful!</p>

<p>I would stick to a 2,8 lens at most. I have trouble focussing the Jupiter 98/2 on the CLE wide open, but hey, it is a Sonnar. No further comment about bokeh needed. <a href="http://www.antiquecameras.net/sonnarlens.html">Here is a lost of Sonnar lenses</a> . Most of them are f2 lenses and therefore bigger than you'd want for a CLE. The Hexanon is an a modern lens and does a great job.</p>

<p>If you count the threads in the shutter cloth, you will see it matches the dark bands in the photo. It is about 50 pairs. This cloth is lead around a metal strip to create the shutter slit.<br>

Like stated earlier, a little dirt on the edges of the shutter cloth can cause the dark bands. This may be a little residue from lubrication.</p>

<p>Maybe the flange distance is a little bit off. That could mess up things. The lens itself is pretty straightforward. As long as you don't guess 2m to be 0,3m, you should be fine.<br>

Is it focus-unsharp or motion blur? That can happen at 1/30 or 1/15. Did you check with shorter shutter times to rule that out or can you see it is focus unsharpness?<br>

If it is focus unsharpness, take the new camera back.</p>

 

<p>I have the older Horizont and stitch the scanned images with Canon PhotoStitch. Able to take tiff format. Works like a charm. Be careful not to photograph your fingers!</p>

<p>I sold the 40 Rokkor pretty quickly after getting my CLE. Maybe I shouldn't have, but I like my 50 Quinon Sonnar a lot. Especially at longer distances I found out the frames match very well. Just imaging the frame a little tighter.<br>

I don't have a 28mm lens either... 25mm works miracles at the full frame. And the old Canon is a wonderful small package.</p>

<p>Both top and bottom look and feel like black chrome metal to me. Like used on the M4-2 and later.<br>

In any case, very very strong!</p>

<p>So sorry, I was appearantly wrong.</p>

<p>Under the round plastic plug in the top deck there are two tiny screws. One for vertical, the other for horizontal. Don't remember which is which though. They may influence eachother, I don't remember.</p>

<p>But would you rather adapt your lenses than go ahead with an adapted body?<br>

Try with a collapsible lens first. Just extend it a little less.</p>

 

<p>Waltz also made 40mm filters for Canon. Remember the 25mm lens needs slim filters, about 1mm thick front ring.<br>

You will just have to wait and keep looking. Ffordes may also have them from time to time. There are a lot of threads on this subject, also on RFF.<br>

You can also try a step ring to a more suitable filter size.</p>

back door...back door.

Did you notice the different colour of your light streak? That is because the light coming from the back creates a different colour on film than light coming from the front.

Light coming from the front can't cause the streak starting a few mm into the frame. Back door leak will do this.

Been there, cured that.

Have a look at the back door. Top of the image means bottom in the camera. The streak starts at some point in the frame, this means back door. You may have had the camera in more light than with the other shots, explaining why only this shot.

This is not a shutter hole.

You can add some felt-like light trapping material between body shell and back door. Not too much ofcourse.

 

good luck!

Be aware it will be a very close-up lens. The FD lens is a slr lens, the M bodies are thinner because they don't have a mirror.

I'd try it out first: open the back and look at the projected image on some matte surface. (focussing screen, tape)

You can easily stop the motor from hitting the shell. Open it up and insert a fresh piece of rubber. I found a how to somewhere, might be here on pnet. Sounds difficult, but it isn't.

 

good luck!

Another vote for the Ultron 35/1,7. Slightly lower in contrast as it should be.

Great size on my M4-2.

cheers, Rob.

Get yourself an M4-2. Ready out-of-the-box!

No.

 

It is all about film to flange distance. Have a look at:

http://www.markerink.org/WJM/HTML/mounts.htm

for more info on lens registration.

Adapters - without glass elements - are only possible to adapt lenses for larger registration distance systems to cameras with smaller registration.

Such an adapter simply fills the gap. That is the case with screw-to-MD or -Maxxum adapters. The other way around would require image-degrading optics or it would restrict you to macro, or loss of infinity focus.

 

cheers, Rob.

Why not use the camera and get to like it? Especially being your dad's camera...

Fitting the winder takes some fiddling. It is almost like a normal baseplate, but not quite.

 

When I got my M4-2 motor it was banging very loud. You could feel it banging against the plastic housing.

The cure for a loud winder (as most without maintanance are) is very simple. Somewhere on this site (I think) is a thread with detailed photos of howtodo. But it's pretty straightforward.

Originally there is some buffering material that was gone in my motor. Instead I put a little piece of glazing rubber (about 3mm thick) and glued it in its place. Then the movement of the rotor has to be limited so it can just make the rotation and stop the current. Then the winder will be as whisperquiet as it can be.

I tried the winder without film, the shutter is still in order. YMMV I guess. Not making a habit of shooting blanks though.

One of the 'freedom train' Leicas perhaps? Value depends on condition of the camera and lenses. Why one of four?

Have a look at Cameraquest.com if you want to know more about these great cameras.