catman5

I use a 28-300 XR exclusively on my IIe (yes, I am still using film, but will go digital when an "e" version comes out -- maybe). Sure, it is not as good a lens as a prime, but it is far from crappy and definately does not suck. It is light (excellent for travel compared with a bunch of primes), has very decent optics for what it is and is affordable. When I bought it, I played around with the Sigma and it just didn't feel right for me, so I went with the Tamron. Plus I had very good luck with a second generation 28-200 Tamron previously. If I have a pro gig, I rent what primes are necessary. For travel, the XR is hard to beat, in my opinion.....

Two reasons....first, I bought my then wife a 650 when they first came out and liked it. Then my eye sight went really fast and no one had anything like the IIe so I tried it and liked it (had a complete OM-1 and OM-4 system); everything was in focus. Got my eye sight fixed, divorced the wife and still use the IIe.

Keeping up with technology may not be necessary for some of us. If what you have satisfies your requirements, forget the new stuff. This whole thing is one reason I have stayed with film. But that is just me. Lots of people have lots of reasons to go digital. Sometimes the newest is the best depending on need. Let's also remember that Canon is a business. They need to make money so they come out with new stuff. It's like the music business -- vinyl, then 4-track, then 8-track, then cassette, now CDs. So you could possibly have the same music, in different quality if remastered, in multiple formats, but the same music nonetheless.

David -- I have a "sort of" answer for you. I use only one lens, the Tamron 28-300XR. This after years of hauling multiple everything around and continually changing lenses. Know what? I love it. The quality of the finished product might not be quite on par with some of the primes others have sited, but it is a good lens that products very good results and generally gets a bad rap here. It is also quite affordable. That said, is there a place you can rent or borrow one to try out? You are the one that must be satisfied.

I have one and love it. No, it is not of "L" quality, but it does a very, very good job in my opinion and cost much much less. My only complaint is a little softness at the 300mm setting, but I like a little softness at that end so it is not an issue for me. It is an excellent lens and outperforms many similarly priced Canon lenses in the same price range that I have tested it against, but Canon does not offer a 28 - 300. Their 28 - 200 was identical to the Tamron and I think a relabled Tamron product. The 28 - 200 XR is even sharper. I had a 28 - 200 Super and it was great. The reach is awesome. All this said, I do like the 28 - 135, but it is just too short for me since I like to travel (and I travel a lot) with just one lens. You might try renting one before buying. Opinions don't mean much when you are disappointed in a purchase and on the plane. If you rent one and test it, shoot transparancies so you can analyze your work with an eye loop. Prints, unless done by a lab you trust are not goot for such a test. Good luck.

Do you like the camera? If so, get it repaired. If you are open to a newer model, then consider that. If you do wish to move to a newer model, the 7e is so marginally improved over the IIe, I would save the money and seek a IIe. I have a IIe and borrowed a 7e and the results and handlability, for me, are just not noticeable. The only problem is that the IIe is only available used. And used is a problem for some. For me example; I would not follow my own advice so I would have a warranty on a new piece of equipment if I could afford it. That said, there are many places that sell used or slightly used bodies, like B & H and warranty them. Do a little research and the answer will come to you......

Yep, I use them -- they are great lens-condoms. Hoyas are my choice due to quality and I have ruined more than one in travel. They offer great protection if you are out and about shooting. In a studio they are probably not necessary. But in salt spray, wind, blowing dirt or sand or whatever, better they get dented or scratched than the lens sustaining damage.

Hi -- I use an Acer scanner that has an adapter for slides and negatives. It was not expensive, about $200.00 US and does a very good job. Even when scanning a print. Remember that when you scan a print you have already lost a step in sharpness because it has already been worked with via the enlarger. If you scan, with a unit that shines light down though the media, you will not lose the step, whether slide or negative. And most of such scanners come with software so you can work with the image a bit to alter contrast, balance, sharpness, etc. There are many different qualities out there, but I don't think you need to spend a lot unless you are doing professional work. Such is my experience anyway.

Hello Bing -- since I like a little softness in my black/white I might not be able to add much. However, my exposures are dead on. I use partial metering exclusively and colored filters to enhance the shot. I use T-Max 400 and a generic lab and the contrast is very good (think you might want to try a different lab?). When a shot is important I bracket a bit as well. Camera is a IIe, lens is a Tamron 28 - 300 XR. Oh, and I take a Sekonic meter along in case I need exposure confirmation.

Hi Anthony -- I live in cat mecca too -- my house. I am owned by five cats. I use a Tamron 28 - 300 XR with excellent results. Tight and crisp.... Camera is a "getting long in the tooth" Elan IIe that keeps on going...

In your situation I use P mode and then adjust light using compensation. On the IIe there is compensation for both ambient and flash. Works great and is quickly accessed. I use it primarily for shadow reduction or eye highlights. Oh yeah, bracket somewhat.

Hello Nora -- in my experience, the only way to do night work is with slide film. Then when you meter (fool your meter by underexposing by 2 stops and then bracket a little) you'll get what you see. As has been said, the developer (unless you use a lab to custom develop) will use a machine and will raise your blacks up to 18% gray. By the way, your meter will also go to 18% so you won't get black to be black without intervention. Plus the slide film will be sharper in my experience. When I do night work, I meter on black and then underexpose by 2 stops on slide film. Same with computer screens. With white, like snow, for example, it is opposite. Meter on the whitest and then overexpose by about 2 stops to fool the meter or the white will turn out gray. Again, use slide film unless you have a spot and use the spot on a non-white subject and it is daylight, then you'll be okay with a bit of practice.

I also have IIe and there is so little difference between it and 7e that, to me, it is not worth the change. As I've said, the only thing I don't like about the IIe is that it is chrome. However, if you don't know the history of the camera you are taking a chance. Were I in your position, I'd buy a new, warranteed body. You just never know with used. For example, I really miss my OM-1. I go to swap meets and the vendors have them but so far, the examples they have possess issues when they put batteries in to try out. They look nice but either the meter os off or there is some other problem. There is a lesson in that. Try all functions if you are going to buy used. And then take it, if allowed, to a camera shop that can test shutter speeds and light sealing. At the very least, trying to get a written guarantee would be best. On eBay, prices are good, but you might wind up with a non-functional unit.

Elan IIe with BP-50,

Tamron 28 - 300 XR,

Non-slip strap (I hike and move around a lot),

420EZ for the odd flash work I do,

Various filters,

Bogen (convertible) Tripod and Head (rarely used),

Various film depending on need and

Excellent scanner (with transparancy capabilities) to convert to digital when I need to

 

Since I travel a lot, light weight is good. Gave everything else away to a local high school photo lab.

The only thing I don't like about my IIe is that it is chrome. There was allegedly a black one available in Japan but it never made it here to the USA. I, too, miss my OM-1 and OM-4. While the IIe is what I use and will continue to use until it becomes unuseable, I'm looking for an OM-1. But I don't like used cameras so I'm thnking of the Olympus (OM?) 3000. I think that's the name. Totally manual with an electric meter. Sorta like the OM-1. The OM-1 thing is more emotional -- I just want one, and it has to be black.....

Well, I don't know anything about the Sigma but I have a Tamron 28-300XR and am really happy with it. The two are probably pretty close in quality. I don't know about price. The Tamron is compact and sharp except at the long and shot ends. There it isn't at all bad, just not quite as sharp. Is it equivalent to a pice of L glass? No, but it is light and not nearly as expensive. Try one out. I use mine with a IIe, the predessor to the 7 and it is a good match in my opinion. Folks here give non-Canon glass a bad rap and it doesn't deserve it; it is a great inexpensive alternative.

Think I'll go to a Kodak Pin Hole and if I want real high-tech, back to my OM-1......seriously, if you want to keep up, just wait; all of the majors are very competitive.

It is far from a "crappy zoom". However, I agree with a previous poster, rent one and try it to see if you like it. If money is an issue, it is a great alternative. If you want to lug one lens around instead of a bag full, also a great alternative (I've done the bag full thing). Me? Slightly soft is cool, so wasting money on the more expensive glass would be ridiculous. And in my experience, it can be sharp when not used at the short or long ends. My opinion only. No flames please......

Matt - you're right. I got it backwards in my haste. It still works, but opposite of how I put it. Thanks for the clarification. V...

No, it does not have a spot meter but it does have partial metering, about 9.5%. I use a IIe, the 7e's predessor and I learned to meter my hand and then open up a stop, or meter grass or used pavement. Sort of a modified zone system. I use partial almost all of the time. You can also meter pure white and stop down 2 stops, or pure black and open up 2 stops. Exposure compensation will do this for you. Do this and practice, practice, practice and also bracket and you will get a better feel for your style of shooting, the film you like and how your equipment operates. Hope this helps.

For me it was eye controlled focus. I nearly went blind in '96 and the IIe had just come out and focused both vertically and horizontally. So I sold all of my Olympus stuff and made the switch. Still miss the the Oly gear but love the IIe. Wished it would've been in black like the 7e but I got over it! Have since had my eyes fixed but am still loving the IIe!

Hey, they're inexpensive. I say get a used set and some speedy film and try it out. My guess is that you will do fine once you practive and get a touch for it. I keep a set for my Tamron 28 - 300 XR (on a IIe body) just in case. And I refuse to use a tripod in all but the most necessary cases. Alternative tripods are all over. Your jacket, a rock, etc. You'll do fine.

 

Mine turn out pretty well. Especially when using transparancy film. Less is more for me since I travel so much and have made the decision to stay with one body, one lens and a few selected accessories. Let us know how you do.

I still do it the old way -- a flimsy, threadbare handkerchief held in place (away from sensors, etc.) with a rubberband. It works.

Ever think of the Tamron 28 - 300XR? Quality of finished product is fine for newspapers (due to their dot matirix-like property) and it is light enough to move around a quickly as you will probably need to. Quality is not as good as the 35 - 350L but it is so uch less expensive. And if you don't likeit, it will be easily sold since it is not that expensive to start with. I have one and it is very good. It is not that fast, but using a fine grain film like Portra will help take care of that.

There is on my IIe. I don't know what body you have. I use this feature to determine main light, fill in shadow or put catch lights in the eyes of my subjects. It will also reduce the washout you describe.