carsten_wolff

All good, I think, I'll butcher a trail cam and replace the PIR sensor with an electric switch as trigger.

hi, anyone know what compact cameras allow for a electric cable release to trigger the camera at varying intervals (say, about every 5-10 sec (but not using an intervalometer)) manually? Its for a scientific application; the camera would be triggered when a separate navigational system has indicated that a certain distance has been covered. It's also important, that there is no massive delay in startup; i.e. the camera can be told to stay on. Would, say, a Canon G10, or the like do it? Am not chasing "new" necessarily. Cheers

Who has experience using this Tamron lens on a crop sensor EOS? A good friend only has this combo and wants to do strong closeups (near ~1:1) on a very limited budget. I wasn't sure if I should recommend extension tubes or macro-diopters for this lens. I was quietly thinking: May be get an old (even-MF) macro lens instead... Before you ask: No, he hasn't got any prime lenses. He lives 700 miles from the nearest camera shop in the Australian Outback. May be I just mail him an old +2 diopter I have.

Bill at Pro Camera in Charlottesville, VA, is good with Speed-Graphic shutters.

I have two round viewfinders; One by Nikon, one by Kenko.

Hi, Bob, I'd be happy to use those 170mm at least. Seems to behave like any modern single-coated Tessar type. Very similar, probably just a little bit tighter, to a 150mm Xenar in coverage, behaviour and look: Excellent in the middle, still very good at the edges even wide open. All of this is somewhat conjecture anyway, right? YMMV. I've not been overly scientific about it, apologies, just reporting first impressions and making the comment that it is indeed fine for general 4x5" use, if you like the look, and don't need great movements, or e.g. Sironar-S awesomeness. I like it, but I'm not sure if l'll keep it long term; I like not having too much gear as I seem to move a fair bit and usually just own 6 or 7 LF lenses at any one time (Jim Galli, Chris Perez and others will laugh :) ) but as I mostly do 5x7" with the occasional a 617 Canham back shoot, I may actually pass this one on soon-ish anyway; it was a nice surprise though.

An old thread. Just an addenum: The older version of this lens at least covers 4x5" with relative ease. Mine has a Seikosha-S shutter and a 40.5mm filter thread. IC is in excess of 170mm at f/5.6 with good resolution almost all the way. Hard to mount onto a lens board though due to the non-standard cable release trigger base. See also my comment on Lfphoto.info.

<p>a photographer is someone who takes photos</p>

<p>A really old thread, but gets read every so often, so I'll add my two cents. Some people recommended the Leica IIIf here. I'd not go that way personally; knob advance, two finder windows, absolute cr@p film loading (AND you have to cut your film leader to even use it in this camera....). More of a nice camera to look at and fondle rather than use seriously. Almost as bad, but with lever wind is e.g. the Yashica YE. It is just as well made as the IIIf, but rarer (in case you want that serviced, go e.g. with Youxin Ye). The Contax II is ok: So-so finder, advance knob only and early models came without flash synchro. Not many shutter service people out there, as mentioned by others; I got mine serviced by Oleg as well. He did do a good job and I've really put mine through the wringer since, over 1000 rolls and not even a camera bag; it just bounces around in whatever I have and gets largely used in a humid marine and dusty desert environment. But that aside:<br>

So, I'd get a Nikon S2 or Canon 7 in a heartbeat, if you want a user friendly, great camera of that period. Truly wonderful and affordable.</p>

<p>Just to close this thread: I ended up getting Mr Youxin Ye in the US to service the camera. He did a fantastic job on it.</p>

<p>Purple Haze Custom Cameras adapted the Astro-Berlin Tachon 65mm f/0.75 to Nikon SLR mount with infinity focus.</p>

<p>Late reply, but still.... :) I know of one US pro who got that done. He calls it his Mamiya 6.5. Don't know where he got it done or how. I suspect S K Grimes, or Purple Haze Cams. (I went for their 6x9 with a 58 instead.... somewhere between the Mamiyas with a bit more real estate).</p>

<p>Hi, Just wondering who'd be good to repair a dead shutter on above camera? Mike Hama (more of a Yashica Mat guy, I guess); others? I commute between the UK and Australia, but any country would be fine with me. Someone in Japan perhaps?<br>

Its a brilliant camera, (although a YF would be even more convenient to use); anyway, I know its a bit rare and old and therefore a bit precious, but it was made to be used, not looked at and I've been very comfortable working with it. So, I'd love to hear about someone who'd be good at fixing this. I suspect it just needs new shutter curtain ribbons, so perhaps a Leica place would be ok, too. Thanks.</p>

 

<p>@Drew: The 15" Wolly Teles fit #4 Alphax, or Betax shutters, not #5s. Barrel versions can be easily converted; just make sure you find and undo some tiny grub-screws first rather than trying to <em>force</em> any threads on the barrel. I have put two of these lenses into Alphax shutters now and like them a lot.<br /> Older uncoated ones seem just as good as the coated versions IMO, (based on a sample of n=2). There are chrome and black versions. Either have an odd filter thread though (about 78.5mm); I made a slightly crude adapter and use 77mm or 86mm filters. Anyone who knows what that is, (<strong>not</strong> Series IX, I think) please let me know; or perhaps we could get an adapter batch made. I'm not a huge fan of clamps.</p>

<p>Ah, yes, Jim, that should do it;<br>

how did I miss that? (I was looking at that page the other day) :)<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks, Dieter, I actually only have a MB-2 holder and no battery inserts at all at they had been thrown out. This holder has 4 contacts/battery insert, but they're corroded away/unusable. I'm interested in the two live top contacts in the 6?-pin connector to the motor.</p>

<p>hi, the older battery holders for the motors on the F2 only have two live contacts going to the motor. I have got a dud (corroded) battery compartment but a nice, almost pristine looking motor, so I was going to connect 8-10 AA batteries just to see if the motor is working before I fork out money on a new battery holder. Naturally, i don't want to fry the motor, so, does anyone know which contact is + and which -? (inner/outer)?<br>

thanks!</p>

<p>I don't like them that much; they're not the best camera if you want to get into wide-angle work.<br>

I'd look for an old Sinar or Arca-Swiss instead.</p>

<p>Robin, how did you go? I have a similar high powered application in mind.<br>

I know a reply to a very old thread :)<br>

@ Bill: Hartenbergers guide numbers are metric, not sure whether that "muddied the waters".....<br>

Ikelite's DS200 has a metric GN of 24. Hartenberger's is 32.6...but they have revised their output beam angle to 95deg.</p>

<p>...probably worth mentioning that early Dagors definitely did not get "laser aligned" or what not. The world's first functioning Laser was not operational, or even shown to be working in a research lab, before May 16, 1960. I may well have one of the very few gold dot (not red dot) Apo-Artars (39xxxx) and have used a few Dagors (gold dot and no dot) before. They're all fine, very usable lenses, but not mind-bogglingly better than many other lenses of that vintage, be it Cooke, Kodak, Wollensak, or Ilex.</p>

<p>Weird, I've had an FM series camera (all of them: FM, FM2, FE, FE2, FM3a) since 1986 and I am a "left-eyed shooter" as well. I never even seen the lever being a problem until you mentioned it. I did have an MD-12 for a while, for underwater use and steadiness with long lenses. I guess we're all different. :) I never had an F3, just an F4 (again, for UW use) but share most commentator's sentiments.</p>

<p>Nothing wrong with a D60 actually. I'm using one for probably more than half of my photos. This camera more often than not either has its kit lens (18-55 VR) or just aforementioned 50mm/1.8E in manual mode. I can't think of anything lighter yet equally capable in the DSLR field.</p>

<p>Hi, Gene,<br /> Perhaps logically, I use mostly my mid-longer lenses and in 5x7" my favourites are a somewhat ecclectic mix: A 210mm/f6.3 Komura-Commercial (a tessar), an uncoated 10"/f6.8 Conley Series V and a 15"/f5.6 Tele-Raptar, (both in Alphax-Synchro shutters with modern speeds).<br /> Although I also have nice 300mm Nikkor-M and 450mm Fuji-C lenses, I tend to use those more for landscape/architecture and stopped down.<br /> Carsten</p>

<p>The main difference between an S3 and an SP is that the S3 shows 3 focal length brightlines at once in the finder, which is a bit irritating, whereas the SP has a focal length selector.<br>

What a buy; I've been looking for a good SP for ages!</p>

<p>Sure, the S2 is a fine camera for street photography; the finder is more than ok for eye-glass wearers as well. Contax/Kiev RFs are a cheaper alternative. All of the rangefinders, yes, incl. the Leica M9, are somewhat for masochists, though. Surprisingly, in the real world, there is nothing wrong with using a (e.g. cheap) (D)SLR, which also works just fine....so does a plethora of other camera types. If it has to be a 35mm RF, the S2 is lovely though, almost as good as an SP, and e.g. much easier to load with film than those overpriced dang vintage Leicas...:)</p>