stank
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Posts posted by stank
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Hello, I haven't posted here in a long time but I am having the same issue with my D300 rubber grips. Unfortunately, the Nikon Parts link does not have the grips for the D300/D300s. There are aftermarket replacement grips available but they seem to be a mixed bag of good and bad as far as fit and adhesives. Anyone have good experience with any of these aftermarket replacements? If so, which one?
Thanks
Stan
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<p>I know what you mean about the weight. Recently I took my D300 with a Sigma 17-70mm on a hike up Old Rag and I was really wishing I had something lighter, especially as I have cervical spinal stenosis. The picture quality made it all worth it. The lens was just about perfect, possibly could have gone wider. The D300 is a DX sensor so the the FX equivalent would be about 25-105mm. I am considering getting a second body like the D5500 with a Nikon 16-80mm as it looks like I could save 1lb vs my present rig. <br>
The other thought is to use a camera sling bag rather than having it hang from my neck.</p>
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<p>I still have my N8008s in a closet somewhere but I do remember having some strange issues related to batteries and electrical contacts. Make sure all electrical contacts are clean. This includes the battery contacts, the lens mount contacts and the contacts on the lens.<br>
In cold weather, mine would lockup occasionally. I found that this was due to the alkaline batteries getting cold which increases their internal resistance resulting in voltage drop. I switched to NiMh batteries for cold weather and problem was solved. NiMh have better resistance to cold temperature impedance gain.</p>
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<p>How do you know when the mirror is sticking? Mine has given me a couple black images recently but the mechanism sounds same as always even when I got the black images.<br>
Thanks<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>I have to vouch for Nikon too. They repaired my D70s when it was several months out of warranty. They replaced the card reader and did a nice cleaning... NO CHARGE!<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>My Sigma 17- 70mm F2.8-4 DC Macro (OS) HSM started acting up. The OS would jump when the zoom ring was rotated. Unfortunately, it was a few months out of warranty. I sent it to Sigma in NY to get an estimate. They replaced the OS and sent it back to me...NO CHARGE! <br>
<br />Stan</p>
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<p>Have you considered a refurb? I picked up a D5100 with a 18-55 VR lens, bag and SD card for $490 at B&H. They have a few D5200 now.<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>The Sigma 17-70 is a very good and versatile lens for the money. I bought one for a trip to China and it was the only lens that I needed. The relatively fast aperture and OS make it fun for low light and the range is great for a wide range of subjects. The AF is fast and quiet. It is one of the reasons that I chose it over the Tamron. It is also pretty darn sharp. I'd buy it again in a heartbeat.<br /> Stan</p>
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<p>Try some desiccant (http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?catalogId=10053&dym=desiccant&langId=-1&storeId=10051). Rice is ok but this should do better.<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>Very cool of you to got to the effort to track down the owner. And good thinking to try here,<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>Deoxit is excellent stuff.</p>
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<p>I have seen the same kind of behavior. My EN-EL3e from 2008 is exhibiting reduced capacity but my EN-EL3e form 2010 is even worse. It could be that the vendor who supplies cells to Nikon makes changes in their manufacturing with different lots or maybe Nikon uses different vendors, some being better than others.<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>As I mentioned above, the deal fell through on the 80-200. I have been using a 70-210 AF-D and find it to be very sharp. There is probably some sample variation and these are old and could be banged around some. I do really like the 70-210 and will likely keep it for the same reasons you mentioned above. Nikon changed the AF gearing a little in the AF-D version and it focuses very fast on my D300. My only issue is low light capability and, yes, the 80-200 really looks cool. Maybe I should keep my pocket lined and be happy with the 70-210.<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>That is very typical behavior. The life gauge is likely based on battery voltage and not a current integrator. A true battery fuel gauge would need to integrate the charge current into the battery and the discharge current out of the battery. Since the battery charger is external to the camera, there is no way for the camera body to know how much charge was stored.<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>Bitten by Craigs List again! :( This is the 4th time trying to buy a Nikon 80-200 f2.8 that I am the first responder, conform that I am interested, set up at time to meet and the seller doesn't show or drops communication (likely because they sold it to someone else) or flat out sells it out from under me. Rant... rant...rant...</p>
<p>I guess it is just as well. I did have some reservations regarding the cracked ring and some reported minor dust on the internal elements. Perhaps I should just pay a little more and stick with reputable sellers like B&H, Adorama or KEH and be done with these CL folks.</p>
<p>By the way, nice idea ^ for fixing the cracked ring.<br>
<br /> Stan</p>
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<p>Lithium batteries not only have a cycle life but a calendar life. They will go bad sitting on the shelf. After two years they will likely exhibit reduced capacity (run time on a charge). My EN-EL3's were basically toast after about 4-5 years.</p>
<p>You are best off to buy fresh batteries and only buy what you are going to use. Stockpiling lithium batteries is a waste. That said, if the price is right and you don't mind charging more often, the two year old batteries may be worthwhile. If you think you will be upgrading your camera in the not too distant future it may be worthwhile. <br>
Stan</p>
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<p>Are they still using it in the present 80-200 f2.8?</p>
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<p>What problems does it cause being cracked? If I have read previous threads properly, it looks like it slips between AF and MF too easily. True?</p>
<p>Stan</p>
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<p>I have an opportunity to buy an Nikon 80-200 for $600 but it has a cracked AF/MF ring but is otherwise looks decent from the photos. I have not actually laid hands on it yet. I understand that this is a common issue with this lens and is about $150 to repair. Does the lens still work if it is not repaired? Assuming the rest of the lens is good, is it ok to get this lens or should I move on?</p>
<p>Thanks<br>
Stan</p>
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Unfortunately, your battery has headed south. Lithium ion batteries have many
advantages as far as energy density and no memory effect. However, they have a
limited calendar life as well as cycle life. Three to four years is about all you
can expect even with little use. Unlike NiCd or NiMh, they don't benefit from
reconditioning. In fact, it can be detrimental. They can go bad sitting on the
shelf. Therefore, to makes no sense to stock pile Lithium ion batteries for later
use.
What you describe is typical of a failing battery.
Stan
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<p>Have a look at the Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 HSM OS. It has pretty decent low light capability with the combination of fairly wide aperture and image stabilization.</p>
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<p>Deoxit by Craig is one of the best products I have found for contact cleaning and enhancing. They have stuff specifically for gold contacts. If you are into audio, they have some great stuff for faders and other controls too.<br>
<p>Stan</p>
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<p>When these things happen to electronics, it is best to remove the battery and any power source ASAP to prevent further damage. Try to dry it as much as possible (rice trick is good) before attempting to power it on.<br>
Stan</p>
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<p>The 18-105 is a VR lens, correct? Was the VR turned ON when you took the images from a tripod? I believe that when shooting using a tripod on stable ground, the VR should be OFF otherwise you may not get sharp images. It could also be that the lens is a poor sample or was knocked out of alignment.<br>
Just thinking<br>
Stan</p>
Unpleasant Discovery
in Nikon
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