bryceworld

<p>wow! great response, many things to try, will update when i've finished and hopefully mastered!</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Bryce</p>

<p>Sorry Didn't know the image size restrictions..<br>

<img src="../photo/9169391" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

I shot this image on a rotating lens camera called a noblex, it operates by having the lens sit in a 'barrel/drum' and swings around the film plane recording the scene through a slit in the casing of the drum > hard to explain without actually seeing one already.<br>

The problem with these cameras, as you will see, is shooting in the sun. Flare + reflections can cause havoc with your ever increa$ing cost of veliva. So with this image, i'm aware of the blownout highlights and sunflare on the left part of the image, my problem is with the reflection causing a weird colour shift on the right, near the dead branches sticking up. Once it's been pointed out (on screen) to normal people they can see it. But in print it's way more so.<br>

Can this be fixed at all? Blending colours seams like a really daunting 'not worth the trouble' task. and since this can be printed up to 50 inch's.. It really needs to be perfect ;)</p>

<p>Thanks for any help you guys can give</p>

<p>Bryce</p>

<p><img src="../photo/9169312" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Just trying to upload, I don't think my first attempt worked..</p>

Love

I've only shot 2 serious weddings and even that was hard to pick from!! I can only imagine the 3yr+ People!

Nikon D700, F5, 125/th, ISO 800<div></div>

Hey mate,

I used to work for a lab called CFL, they offloaded their drum scanner to a client, mark zissis, I think he does scanning on

the side. try contact him here

http://www.markzissis.com.au/drum_scanning.php

You can tell him Bryce sent you, but I was only there for a few months ;)

Hey all, this is a great thread.. but I need to confirm a couple of things as I'm just about to take this step also..

So if a get a leveling head, I can 'shift' the lens of the camera(?) thus achieving more foreground/sky as I wish?

OR

Is the best/cheaper/common way to shoot multi row's and crop?

I just use a ball head currently so i'll have to take this off and mount the leveling head when shooting this style yes?

Thanks

No my monitor is not calibrated, but i dont think thats the issue because they are fine on screen, dark on the net, but fine

when i save them as 'for web use' etc ?

The colour profile i haven't changed, so unless I should change it to a universal one i think it's just the default adobe 98

one?

I'm working in RGB not cmyk also (as this was as it was when i got PS) should it be the other way around? Is cmyk better

to work in?

Hi everyone,

Just got back from a trip overseas and after going through all the raw conversions, basic auto levels etc (they're just happy snaps) and

resizing + saving to jpeg's I went to upload them all, (facebook) and they've all come out alot darker? So i have to go re-save them all to

the web use and devices part of PS now, correct?

Just wondering how to go about this, if possible, in a batch way? so I don't have to go through them all one by one again...

Thanks for any help

Bryce

I caved.. with no real good camrea's in sight a nice fotoman 617 popped its head up, and i bought it :)

Panorama i know but with DSLRs busting out 20mp sensors soon you will be able to shoot one frame and crop it..6X6...5X4 take/make your choice.

Thanks again for everyone that took the time to reply, it was very much appreciated!

Just wanted to thank everyone for their input, its greatly appriciated.

I still havn't found a swc within my reach, theres been a couple on ebay but 3k+ US prices

are out of my price range and a bit over the top to i think.

I'll update with my purchase in the future

Bryce

Hi,

I'm looking into venturing into the MF game, after a couple of years with an

xpan and noblex, and working for a well known pano photographer, i'm starting

to get a little over the pano format and am seeking change..

I love my landscapes and am thinking square, my question is (and sorry if its

completely obvious) which wide angle lense is considered the best?

The swc has the 38(i think, or 35) but its fixed is it not? A bit limiting...

the 40mm i think i read somewhere has some bad characteristics with flare? or

shooting into the sun? can anyone elaborate? and the 50mm seams like it's not

going to be 'wide' enough..

I'd prefer answers from people that have owned these one/some of these lenses

and their experience when blowing up to large sizes, i.e 50inch's +

Thanks for your time and advice..

Bryce

Neil, I noticed when playing with mine that if I left the green/red knob on red when selecting the higher end shutter speeds it would play with the timing. I cant remember now but like 1/500th would actually be 1/30th. Dont quote me on that but it was something similar.

Have you got it fixed yet? (just noting the time posted till now)

THANK YOU Ilkka!

To be honest I had assumed that from the start but I didn't know if there was some new attachment thing out there i knew nothing of.

I did marvel at james initiative to use a bracket arm and just drill my own holes too ;)

OK Hopefully this will clear some things up on the Noblex front:

Camera level = level horizons

Camera angled down = Horizon edges bent down. (So the horizon will resemble the top half of a clock - Not usually that extreme) Increased tilt of the camera produces increased 'bend' in the horizon.

Camera angled up = Horizon edges bent up. So the Horizon resembles the bottom half of a clock

Camera LEVEL with lens shift UP = STRAIGHT horizons!!! BUT the Horizon is positioned towards the bottom of the frame i.e more sky in the picture

By using the camera in an upside down position with the above shift feature in use you should be able to achieve a shot with more foreground (less sky because the camera is upside down now) in the picture with a LEVEL horizon.

The biggest problem faced here is the task of getting the camera bang on level as the spirit level is a bubble one and can really only be used in an upright position...

All this could be avoided if somehow a noblex with a DOWN lens shift existed :P

Hey everyone, thanks for your replies, much appreciated :)

Just to note a few things,

As James mentioned, If i take the center post out and put it back in, in reverse, the legs will show in the shot, unless we're mistaken?

Frank, I'm aware of how a noblex works re levels and shift features :)

The model I have shifts the lens UP only. Thus increasing the sky and minimizing the foreground, so the opposite should apply if the camera is turned upside down, more foreground and less sky, yes?

If nothing exists to remedy this I think James' home mod job sounds the best so far :)

Hey all,

As the owner of a noblex I'm restricted to having the horizons dead center or

less foreground and more sky.

Is there any sort of tripod out there that will allow me to mount my camera in

an upside down position so i can do the reverse and have more foreground in my

pics and less sky?

If there is such a thing?

Hi all,

I was just wondering how this limited addition thing works..

So you get a few 'wow' shots.. and you can say offer them as limited addition

50inch prints, 200 only, or whatever the case maybe. Can you not sell these at a

smaller size anymore?

What is and isnt generally accepted?

E.g whats the point of offering limited prints of 50inches when the 40inch

option is available?

I dont think i'm getting my true point accross (i cant really explain myself

that well) :P

But yeah, just looking for a general rundown on the do's and don'ts of it.

Thanks for any help

Bryce

Cool thanks, yeah, this upside down venture seems to be taking me on a path to a new tripod :)

Any suggestions?

hey bill,

Yes i'm aware the camera must be perfectly level for straight horizons :) but i'm just wondering how much i can angle my camera down (so the horizon will be above halfway) with the lense shifted BEFORE that starts taking place, get me?

Also, just on your tip for longer lasting batteries, do you mean to take them out even when the cameras turned off??? I only have the camera on when i'm making an exposure, then it's off till the next shot :)

Hi,

I just spoiled myself with a 135u (not mf but some other big boy noblex users

may be able to help?) and it has the shift function, i'm not sure how many mm it

is, or if they even make different ones? I keep reading 4-5mm.

Anyway while i've had success with both straight and bent horizons i'd like to

be able to include more foreground with a straight horizon. I thought that by

angling the camera down a certain amount and using the shift funtion up that i'd

be able to do that? but I can never get a straight horizon the the top half of

the shot. is this possible or am i dreaming here. I dont see any indicaters in

the viewfinder apart from a bit of a raise in the middle, which i'd assume would

be what the lense would see if i shift it up and not move the camera..

thanks for any help :)

An example is here, i know he probly shot it on something like a technorama or

some other non swing lense camera, but is it possible to get the horizon here

with a noblex???

http://www.kenduncan.com/images/1280/1280img.php?i=NX2375