serguei_fenev
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Posts posted by serguei_fenev
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<p>Hi Hening,<br>
Yours first and only question was if 1DS would give you 8x11 prints. I never owned original 1D neither 1DS; however Jamie has answered the question in the post. I, personally, was skeptical about digital when the cameras started to show up and my first one was Canon S80 point-n-shoot sporting 8MP small sensor. From that one I was getting beautiful 8x10 and 8x12 prints. I'm sure 1DS will beat S80 hands down in this or any other area.<br>
On the other note I have been shooting in Arctic a lot. In February-March 2011 while being a part of the Polar Ring Expedition on our first attempt to cross Arctic from Russia (Archipelago Severnaya Zemlya) via North Pole to Canada (Resolute Bay) I brought the original 5D and 1D MarkIII. The temperature range was from -37C to -48C and both cameras worked great. However, a non-OEM battery pack for 1D Mark III that I bought off e-Bay died after sitting in the Pelican case in cold temperature for 3-4 days not taking charge any more. On the other hand non-OEM batteries for 5D (cheap) had no problem to hold the charge like the original Canon batteries.<br>
The second attempt to cross Arctic we took in 2014 (February-March) starting from continental part of Russia in Siberia (Novy Urengoj). This time I brought 5D MkII and 1DX. The temperature was below -35C and quite few days it was steady at -52C. Both cameras worked great, the lenses (16-35, 24-70 and 100-400) had no any issues whatsoever.<br>
I always had spare batteries in my internal pockets. Bringing cameras back into the warm (5C - 10C) vehicle environment was not a problem - I put the cameras back in the bag, zipped it and kept it zipped in the vehicle for an hour or two.<br>
Happy shooting, Hening.</p>
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<p>Hi Stephen,<br>
I have been shooting in Arctic for many years and especially in Arctic Ocean in 2011 & 2014 while being on the Polar Ring Expedition (I have pictures on Flickr here and here ) .<br>
On both trips temperature was well below zero - in 2014 I've been shooting outside in temperature -52°C often being in and out of the vehicle. I haven't used a sealed plastic bags though I had them. I would just put cameras (5DMII and 1DX) in the camera bag and zip it before I take cameras in the vehicle (inside temp was about +15°C) and won't open it for a couple hours and I had no problem with the condensation (sometime I would get it if the lens is still cold). If I needed to take pictures again I would open the bag outside of the vehicle. I had spare batteries in the inside pockets - haven't had any problems with neither batteries (not OEM replacement batteries) nor with CF cards (Lexar 1033 UDMA 7 32 & 16 GB).</p>
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<p>I used 1.4x Mark III with 70-200 f/2.8 Mark I on 1DX shooting hockey and haven't notice any AF speed issues - worked perfectly in terms of AF speed and IQ.</p>
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<p>In addition, please keep in mind that camera will set the shutter speed based on ambient light and that, depending on the available light (especially indoors), could be slow and in such affecting the sharpness of your shot or revealing subject motion.</p>
<p>Serguei</p>
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<p>Hi Jamie,<br>
Make sure the Camera (5DII) has Custom Function C.Fn I-7 (Exposure/Flash sync. speed in Av mode) set to 0 (Auto). With this setting the flash will be working in fill-in mode when you shoot in Av. <br>
Serguei</p>
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<p>Hi George,<br>
I've got the same question; however never asked. That happens to me all the time when I shoot ice hockey (1D Mark III). I correct it during post-processing.</p>
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<p>Thank you, Philip, for the update!<br>
I was thinking about 7D as a cheaper alternative to 1DIII (maybe IV) - not sure now based on image quality at high ISO (1600-3200). The more 7Ds hit shelves the more information we will have to make a decision. Again it is subjective - some people could be happy with 7D as it would deliver quality to their expectations and some would be looking for a better (and more expensive) options. Thanks again for your posting here.</p>
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<p>It would interesting to hear your comments on kids ice hockey shooting - I'm thinking about getting this camera mainly because of this and would like to see how AF and 8fps work in this type of application. Thanks for sharing the information :-)<br>
Serguei</p>
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<p>I've got a Lowepro Trekker Classic http://www.amazon.com/Lowepro-Trekker-Classic-Backpack-Black/dp/B00011XCTE for the same set including EF16-35 (though I have original 5D) about two years ago and it serves me well. Plus it has space for EX580, EF50 f1.4 and spare batteries and other small staff.</p>
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<p>I agree with Dan - I started to use it when shooting hockey games (you have no control over the lighting at the rink) and it does help a lot - big difference! And you always can fine tune WB in postprocessing later on if you need - so far WB was perfect and I haven't done any adjustments after.</p>
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<p>Thanks Sarah! I will consider your advices.</p>
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<p>I'm very interested in this topic as well as I'm going on trans-Arctic expedition ("The Polar Ring Expedition" <a href="http://www.ec-arctic.ru/eng/pr/">http://www.ec-arctic.ru/eng/pr/</a>) next month and going to be in Arctic for 4 months with my 5D and G10. Cannot afford 1D series that should survive the trip so will see how 5D would do that.</p>
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<p>5D - for image quality<br>
+<br>
85 f1.8 - portrait lens for studio and great outdoor lens<br>
+<br>
70-200 f2.8 - excellent outdoor (and indoor) performer</p>
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I've bought two NB-2L batteries from http://titanbatteries.com/cadicaba.html more then 3 years ago and they are
still running well, on par with Canon original battery. I bought from SterlingTek
http://www.sterlingtek.com/index.html two BP-511 and again they are as good as Canon battery. You don't loose too
much buying a battery for 10 backs shipped in case it failed though I had only positive experience.
Happy shooting.
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Agree with Gil - I use Hoya Pro-1 on this lens with 5D and have no problems with vignetting because of the filter.
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The www.photoprice.ca (or go directly to http://www.photoprice.ca/product/00043) doesn't show 'a massive jump' at all.
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Hi Dan,
I'm in the same boat and I try to figure out a workflow for RAW files.
I found a book that I'm going through right now - "Camera Raw with Adobe Photoshop CS3" by Bruce Fraser and Jeff Schewe - excellent book.
so on p.55 it says about Embed Original Raw File option of the Adobe DNG Converter:
"Embedded Original Raw File embeds a bit-for-bit copy of the original raw file in the DNG, from which it can be extracted at any time. You can use this option for your archived images just in case you need to retrieve the original raw files at some future date, but we suggest you to turn it off for your working files to save space, because embedding the original raw file increases the full size considerably."
I would highly recommend to buy this book - it helps me a lot with understanding what is the raw format and how to work with it.
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I would get 28-70.
Cheers.
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I had a very good experience with one in Mississauga. Prompt service - they fixed my 24-70 within a week and shipped it back for free even the lens was 4 years old.
Cheers.
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A perfect answer, Sheldon! :-)
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Get 5D now and enjoy (that's what I did). The 5D Mark II (what name is going to be) will be definitely "out of your price range" again unless you wait another 2-3 years for the price drop :-)
I've been in the same position and last week bought 5D and now waiting for 700 CAD back in rebate. 5D is a great camera - it has been said here hundred times :-)
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I've sent my 24-70 to fix the hood ring that fell off.
Great and fast service and they even didn't charge me a penny though the lens was about 5 years old. Great experience.
Canon 50mm f/1.4: Auto Focus Stopped Working
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>Hi Rob,</p>
<p>Mine broke the same way even being hardly used - I had to send it for repair to Canon for somewhat $90 CAD (don't remember exact cost). As Bob mentioned above it is know for this problem.</p>