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ed_skibeki

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  1. I have a Rolleiflex 3.5F and the original mirror is getting funky looking. I bought a replacement for it and am looking for advice about how easy it is to remove and replace it. From what I can see looking in the mirror box there are 3 small tabs held in place by screws that hold it in place. Do these screws have to be removed? There doesn't seem to be any gap or slot at the top of the mirror that it could simply slide out like I've seen on youtube videos of earlier Rolleiflex models. Thanks
  2. From that link... "The idea to use serial numbers beginning with 35.. for the 3.5 cameras came in 1974. According to Prochnow this was shortly before production was ended. Only a few cameras from this range are known to me: № 3 556 084, № 3 556 147 and № 3 556 164. Sources do not agree on the year 3.5 production was ended. It probably was around 1976. Later cameras may have been made from existing parts on special order only." Interesting stuff.
  3. Finally, curious if any of you can tell from either the serial number on the lens or body in the photo below when the camera was made? In digging around on the net I'm getting anything from 1976 to 1979.
  4. I mistakenly posted this earlier on the "modern film cameras" site by mistake. I'm posting it here again, hoping that's ok. I recently picked up a late (sn 355...) Rolleiflex 3.5f with a Zenotar lens. The front lens group taking lens seems to have haze on the rear element facing the shutter that I'd like to clean. I understand that the group simply unscrews with a rubber friction tool, but I'm not sure which surface to torque against as there are 2. One is a ribbed trim ring and then there is a separate inner name plate trim ring with the lens name and serial number on it. The inner trim ring is about 30 mm and the outer about 35 mm. (Photo added for reference) I don't want to be torquing the wrong one, so ask here, does anybody know which one I'm after? Thanks in advance.
  5. Thanks everyone. John I'm nothing but "generally handy," which is hardly the same as knowing ones way around these cameras. In researching this question I found a thread where the owner of a 2.8f had found removing the front group "easy peasy" but the long spanner needed to unscrew the rear group in the mirror box was his issue. I've no idea if 2.8f is different construction than 3.5f and don't want to screw things up. If its as simple as unscrewing the group I'd give it a try, but not if it's more involved.
  6. I recently picked up a late (sn 355...) Rolleiflex 3.5f with a Zenotar lens. The front lens group taking lens seems to have haze on the rear element facing the shutter that I'd like to clean. I understand that the group simply unscrews with a rubber friction tool, but I'm not sure which surface to torque against as there are 2. One is a ribbed trim ring and then there is a separate inner name plate trim ring with the lens name and serial number on it. The inner trim ring is about 30 mm and the outer about 35 mm. (Photo added for reference) I don't want to be torquing the wrong one, so ask here, does anybody know which one I'm after? Thanks in advance.
  7. Just to circle back. Ended up buying a Canon 100mm macro, as it focuses on the entire negative with much less fuss than using extension tubes on other lenses. I'm delighted with the results. They're easily as good as any flat bed I've used, and much faster. The digital camera has far more dynamic range than any negative can "throw at it." I use a Beseler negative carrier to hold the negative, and set it on a ipad with a blank screen as a back light source. Need to elevate the negative carrier a bit to throw the ipad lighting completely out of focus, as it will show banding otherwise.
  8. Can anyone tell me if the viewing screen on the back of DSLR's (mine is a Canon 5D (2)) are parallel to the sensor? If the camera is pointed down to copy, and a level is used to level the viewing screen, will the sensor be similarly aligned? Thanks
  9. Thanks for the replies. The other thought I had was to get an adaptor that allowed a macro lens to be attached to the lens mount plate of my Beseler 23XL. It has a cold light for illumination, the carrier could hold the negative, and the camera mounts to the lens/lens plate. Tilt the rig horizontal for ease of focus and it might work. I just have to see if a lens can be mounted somehow to a lens board. (sacrificial lens hood epoxied to the plate?)
  10. Does anyone know if this type of device exists for medium format film? Nikon ES-2 Film Digitizing Adapter Set 27192 B&H Photo Video
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