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david_hall8

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Posts posted by david_hall8

  1. Does anyone own a Mamiya 6x8 120/220 Power Drive Magazine?

     

    I purchased one used, and I did not receive an instruction manual

    with it. You would think a film magazine would be fairly simple to

    operate, but I cannot determine how to work it without film in the

    camera.

     

    I am not even certain that the Mamiya 6x8 120/220 Power Drive

    Magazine is compatible with the Mamiya RB67 PRO S. I may need to the

    Mamiya RB67 PRO SD.

     

    At any rate, I cannot figure out how to get the thing to work.

    Mamiya does not have a download for the instruction manual on their

    Web Site. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it!

  2. From experience I have learned that on-camera flash tends to be

    somewhat harsh light for wedding photography. I have also found that

    if I were to take the flash off the camera (i.e., via Stroboframe)

    the light would still be too harsh. I have used the bounce card on

    my SB26 to bounce the flash, but the light just does not seem to be

    enough to illuminate my subjects.

     

    I have seen some wedding photographers use a two light system, but

    realize a 3-4 light system would be ideal.

     

    Currently, I have a 3 light Britek Studiomate mono-light system.I

    have 3 Studiomate SM-1600 flash units. I believe they are 168ws (at

    least that is what is stamped on the side of each unit). I would

    assume they have just a little more power than the standard 150ws

    units.

     

    I have several problems. First, I have had this equipment since 1995

    and cannot even locate the manufacturer on the Internet.

     

    Second, I have accumulated a large collection of barn doors, snoots,

    honeycombs, reflectors, etc. with the system, so I hate to just toss

    it aside since it is in emaculate condition.

     

    Third and the largest problem, the flash units work off of

    electrical power cords (AC) only. As far as I know, I cannot

    purchase a power pack to connect each flash unit.

     

    Does anyone know if a portable battery unit can be purchased for the

    Studiomate SM-1600 flash units? Is it possible to plug AC power

    cords directly into portable battery units?

     

    Finally, if I end up replacing the whole lighting system for one

    with a portable battery unit, do I want to get flash units with the

    highest watt-seconds, or will 400 - 600 ws be fine? And does anyone

    have suggestions for a good, affordable (under $2000) studio

    lighting kit? I have heard Novatron is generally affordable.

     

    And one last thing, does anyone you know if reflectors, barn doors,

    snoots, honeycombs, etc. are interchangeable between different flash

    units (i.e., Britek with Norman or Novatron)?

  3. Has anyone used the Stroboframe Pro-RL? If so,would you recommend it over the Pro-T or Press-T?

     

    I have a Nikon F4,Nikon F90X,Nikon D100 & Mamiya RB67. I need a flash bracket that will permit me to shoot flash horizontal & vertical.

  4. I know I am posting this inquiry a little late, but I hope someone

    can offer me suggestions for shooting on-location.

     

    I will be utilizing a 35mm format (Nikon F4, Nikon F90X, & Nikon D100)

    and will be shooting beach scenes (yes, we're warm here in Florida) &

    some sidewalk cafe scenes.

     

    I am aware that if I plan to use existing (ambient) light, the best

    times of the day are early morning and late afternoon. However, that

    does not necessarily suit my model's schedule.

     

    She is available between 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. I can only imagine

    the light will be harsh and deep shadows will result. I could use an

    opaque panel, reflector, or diffusion panel; however, would I not

    need one the size of a house (maybe I am exagerating somewhat) to

    block/diffuse/reflect some of that light?

     

    We could shoot in the shade, but I fail to understand the concept of

    fill-flash (& my photos attest to that fact). I have a Nikon SB26, so

    I know I can compensate for fill-flash; I just do not completely

    understand how.

     

    Finally, the model is semi-professional (at least 50% of her income

    comes from modeling), and she can be a real female dog (trying to

    keep this clean). She's great at posing, but does not have even the

    faintest understanding of light and its affect on the overall image.

    She thinks a flash is the answer to everything! Any suggestions of

    how to deal with a whiny, control freak, model (bodily harm is out of

    the question & somewhat unethical).

     

    Thanks in advance!

  5. Does anyone know if the Gitzo 410R Tripod is still available on the

    market? I have searched virtually every camera store on the Web and

    have been unable to locate one (preferably a used one).

     

    I am somewhat partial to the 410R, because so many of the nature &

    wildlife pros recommend it.

     

    I do need a solid 3 section tripod with flat plate & interchangeable

    column capability. I will be using a 500mm lens, so the tripod needs

    to be sturdy & durable. Likewise, I need a tripod that can go flat to

    the ground as well as extend far enough up to where I do not have to

    stoop over while photographing (plays hell on my back).

     

    So, if Gitzo has come out with another animal close to the 410R, I am

    open to suggestions!

  6. Has anyone had any experience using variable aperture zoom lenses

    (35mm) in fashion/portrait photography?

     

    I am shooting a model that wants action shots. I know I can move with

    her, but I also want the flexibility that a zoom lens offers to get

    head shots & full body shots while we are moving.

     

    The model is semi-professional (50%-60% of her income comes from

    modeling), so I do not want to screw this up. She needs some

    technically perfect & aesthetically pleasing photos for her

    portfolio (in other words, quality counts big time). The images will

    be transfered to a composite card.

     

    Professional fixed aperture zoom lenses tend to be very expensive

    (even used), but I do not know if I want to purchase a consumer lens

    & opt for decreased quality.

     

    I am also aware that low-quality (consumer) zoom lenses tend to be

    slow, offer poor optical quality & very limited maximum apertures.

    Likewise, the greater the zoom range the worse the quality gets.

     

    I have located an older model Nikon 70-210 F4.0 const AF for

    approximately $300 (if someone has not already snatched it up).

    However, I would prefer a faster lens.

     

    Finally, I went on Nikon's Web Site, & the only constant aperture

    zoom lens they had listed was a 35-70 f/2.8D AF. That range is not

    going to cut it for what I need to do. Is anyone aware of some older

    Nikon constant aperture zoom lenses in the 50-135, 70-150, 70-210,

    etc. range?

  7. Over the past ten years, I have been photographing nature and

    wildlife utilizing a 35mm format. Presently, I am interested in

    portrait photography but am overwhelmed by all of the medium format

    cameras available.

     

    I am drawn to the Mamiya 645 AFD due to its automated features and

    ability to add a digital back. However, I do not know whether there

    is a greater advantage to utilizing the larger formats such as 6 x 6,

    6 x 7, 6 x 8, or 6 x 9 in portrait photography.

     

    I am aware everyone has their own opinion of which is the "best"

    system to use (i.e., Mamiya, Hasselblad, Bronica, etc.), I would just

    like to know if it would be more advantageous for me to go with a

    larger format than 6 x 6.45.

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