robert_davis7

Having owned both, I'll suggest the following advice: If the 1N and the 3 are the same price,

get the 3; if the 1N is cheaper than the 3, get the 1N. Both cameras are terrific, and although

the 3 uses modern technology such as 45-point AF and E-TTL, it's not worth the extra cash.

Even with 45 AF points, I almost always used the center point only (like I do on the 1N) and

I'm not convinced that E-TTL is much better than A-TTL or even TTL (with the 540EZ). The

3's only superior attribute is multi-spot metering. Other than that, you'll get a terrific camera

regardless of your decision.

I bought an EOS 1n to replace my EOS 3 that was destroyed. I actually prefer the EOS 1n over

the 3, which is why I still have it after going digital. If you can find a 1n for the same price as

a 1, get the 1n.

 

Also, check KEH.com for some good EOS 1-series prices. They've never let me down.

I have the Tokina 28-70mm f/2.8. I love it for its speed, but the sharpness at f/2.8 leaves a

lot to be desired. BUT ... when I clean it up with a little unsharp mask or Nik's sharpening

plug-in, it looks great. Excluding for bokeh quality, which can't really be simulated, does lens

sharpness even matter anymore on a digital SLR? In other words, couldn't you just buy a

cheap lens and clean up the image in Photoshop? Just a thought. Best, -robert

I've read nothing but horrible reviews about this lens. Try something like the Tamron

28-75mm f/2.8 or Tokina 28-80mm f/2.8.

I used a Sigma 500 super with my EOS 3 and 420EX and I loved it. I didn't use the Metz, but I

figure a glowing recommendation for the Sigma could be helpful.

 

(BTW, I still use the Sigma on my 20D with no complaints)

I can't wait for this lens. I miss my 50mm so much now that it's "become" and 80mm (on the 20D). Adorama said it's supposed to start shipping in May, 2005. Now that it's half-past June ... what's the deal?

False alarm. It's 2.0.0. I don't know why my finger was so itchy to insert that 1.

 

BTW, I got my firmware update from this site:

 

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/eos20d/eos20d_firmware-e.html

I successfully uploaded firmware v. 2.0.1 to my 20D using a PowerBook G4 running Tiger.

 

I did notice that the downloaded file was 6.8MB but when extracted it was only 4.7MB. That appears to be the right file, so go ahead and format a card and go through the process. Don't worry -- you won't screw the camera up because if the firmware file is incorrect the camera will just ignore it and nothing will happen! Good luck.

I use a Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX HSM on my 20D and I love it. I use the camera almost daily and the lens is sharp and fast. The Canon 2.8 is probably better, but I'm not sure if the nearly $600 price difference is worth it.

Paul, I have the same lens as you do and sadly, no, it does not work perfectly on the 20D. My copy can photograph only at f/2.8 (wide open), but once you stop down it gives an error message and I have to restart the camera. I wish this lens would work on the 20D; it is a sharp, sharp lens. Well, this lens can be an excuse for not selling my EOS 1n!

Jesper -- As I said, I deactivated all of the custom fuctions. I think there is something wrong with the camera because when I take a picture with the command dial on Av and then look at the Info on the camera, it reads Tv. It will read Tv regardless of which mode I am in, and it will operate as a shutter-priority camera only.

 

No, this one's a lemon and I'm going to send it back to Canon. I wonder if they'll give me an EOS 1D MKII as an apology? :D

BTW, I removed all custom settings and I'm using a Canon lens. It's almost like the modes on the command dial are not correct -- Green is program (because it's shiftable), M is program, AV is TV and ... *sigh* THis is odd.

I just upgraded to a 20D from a 10D today, so I know most of the

operations. But the camera behaves strangely and I can't find any

mention of this in the manual.

 

* When I turn the dial to AV, the main dial controls the SHUTTER

SPEED, but it doesn't stay set. The aperture value jumps around.

* The green mode (full auto) actually allows me to set the aperture

but not the shutter.

* Manual mode does not allow me to change any settings (using both the

quick control dial and the main dial)

 

I just downloaded and successfully install firmware v. 2 and it still

does this. Is the camera screwed up? I've never seen anything like this.

On the EOS 3 you can change the number of focusing points from 45 to 11, and each one of those 11 points becomes a spot meter (CF 13). Under AI Servo, with the AF points set to auto, I think as the camera tracks and hands off to different focusing points, the camera will also use the applicable spot metering zone. But that's also if you're using ECF ... I wonder if the camera would react automatically? I guess the only way to know is to do some test shots ...

When using a camera that can record both RAW and JPEG images

simultaneously, which JPEG setting do you prefer using and why? Is it

a memory issue, or does it affect final image quality?

Thanks, all. I've decided not to take a step backward from the 10D and instead save my money for the 1D MkII. If I really need the speed, I can always use my 1n and some good old b&w film. B&W film seems to be the only thing keeping my 35mm cameras in service!

I'll keep it simple. I like to shoot photojournalism. I have a 10D

that I like only because it's digital. I miss my EOS 1n and EOS 3, for

speed and fit & finish.

 

If you were like me and found a good deal on a slightly used original

EOS 1D, would you go for it?

 

(I don't print too big usually, but I have Genuine Fractals so I can

if I want.)

 

Will the extra two megapixels be missed?

50mm f/1.8 gets used most of the time, but (like others have said) I LOVE using my 70-200mm f/2.8. *drool*

Glad I could help! :D

I doesn't seem like an upgrade to 12 fps (as someone mentioned) would even be enough to attract photographers to an EOS 1V2. The only people I know who use that kind of blazing speed are sports photogs who shoot for newspapers and magazines ... and they've all gone to the 1D. So it seems like there isn't much of a reason to upgrade the 1V. Unless you pull a Leica and make a gold-plated collector's edition!

 

I still use my EOS 1n when i shoot film. Still a hell of a machine.

To add to Puppy Face's response, also check to ensure the little coin-sized coupling cover is off. I hastily mounted my drive to my EOS 1n once, forgot to check for that cover and I experienced the exact same problem you described.

Are you using CF-4 in the manual modes (where the * button activates the AF)? If so, that setting will not carry over into the creative modes. That oddity made me stumble when I switched modes once to discover every time I went to AF, the camera locked the exposure! :)

Very odd. My off-shoe cord doesn't work with my 10D and 540EZ unless the flash is in manual mode. The 540EZ and my EOS 1n, however, work brilliantly with the cord. My Sigma 500 Super (which is the poor man's 550EX) works perfectly with my 10D, though.

 

Check the contacts and try the 550EX in different modes (E-TTL, TTL, manual, etc.) Best of luck!

I wish it were a dead battery ... the battery is only two months old! And as far as I know it hasn't been damaged. This problem just started recently.

Hello, I've noticed a problem with my battery charger for the BP-511

batteries used in the EOS 10D. After a day of shooting, I go to

recharge the exhausted battery and once i mount the battery the

charger quickly cycles from 50% to 75% to 100% in a few seconds. It

essentially is telling me the battery is recharged, but when I

dismount it and pop it in the camera, it's still exhausted. Has anyone

seen this before? thanks!