sirfish

Hmm, hadn't really thought about the 135mm SF. But I do have that lens as well as the 35-135mm 3.5/4.5. Older lenses I haven't used in quite a while.

 

This trip isn't a photo trip per se, but a beer trip, with plenty of photo ops ;) It's centered around the Zythos Bier Festival in Sint-Niklaas, Belgium. With lots of trips to world class breweries and pubs in between.

Hi All,

I'm heading off to Belgium, Holland, and Germany for a two week trip

next week. Still trying to decide on my lens lineup for normal

vacation shots. I'm bringing the Rebel XT as the body and leaning

toward the 17-40L and a 50mm 1.8.

 

But I'm still debating on bringing my 70-200mm f4, or my sigma 24-70

2.8. I don't like the AF perf of the sigma, but the photos are still

nice. Just thinking that with all the indoors shots in pubs and

breweries, the 17mm range will be needed, but so will a bigger

aperture ;) Hmm...maybe the 100mm Macro too.

 

It's my first time traveling for a long time on 1.6x camera, so just

wondering what other folks are dragging around in their bags. Also

have a 100-300 3.5/4.6 and 18-55 3.5/5.6 to choose from, but don't

see them being an option.

 

Thanks Keith

Hmm...I'm not too familiar with the EXIF data, but I do know that my Rebel XT writes the info

on all my shots. Not sure if this is EXIF data, but I get the exposure info on my shots in

iPhoto (Show Info-->Exposure) or Photoslop (FIle-->File Info-->Camera Data 1), it's there

with the 17-40 and 70-200 f/4 lenses.

 

Cheers

Keith

Anyone know how much faster (if any) the microdrive CF cards drain the camera battery as compared to the flash memory CF cards? The prices on some of the microdrive variants are pretty cheap lately...wouldn't mind taking the splash if my battery isn't going to die in 8 minutes.

I have the 100mm 2.8 macro and love it, but if you want to stay well within your budget you could always get creative and go this route:<br> <br>

 

<a href="http://www.photocritic.org/2005/macro-photography-on-a-budget/">Cheap Macro Lens</a><br><br>

Looks like a fun project too...

I guess I'll chime in here, since no one else knows what they are talking about. ;) I have a

mini with 1gb of RAM and a 1.4GHz chip. And it sucks for image editing. Unless of

course you have a lot of free time.

 

The powerbooks will be roughly equivalent and are not an option for image processing in

a professional workplace at production speed. They are fine for dumping images to and

tweaking an image or two in the field, but you'd probably slash your wrists before the

Photoshop filters finish and the screen redraws. Unless you absolutely need the portability

for the field, get a tower. Or better yet, both!

 

I'd recommend a G5 tower, 2GB RAM minimum, an NVIDIA 7800 GT card, and as much

hard disk space as you can stuff into the thing. Probably the 2.3GHz version. unless you

wanted to go dual dual-core CPU.

Hi Kevin,

 

I was bouncing back and forth between the 60mm and 100mm macro lenses as well. But I

went with the 100mm and just got it today in the mail! I decided to skip the S format lenses

since I've got an EOS 3 as well (although I dont use it much anymore). I thought the 100mm

might be too big/heavy, but actually turned out to be a great size. The FTM focus ring is the

perfect size and the working distance at 1:1 is cool. <a href="http://gallery.photo.net/

photo/3884274-md.jpg" >Here's a quick shot I took with it while testing.</a>

I had the same decision a few days ago as well. I went with the 350d. The small size was something i was worried about. And hanging my 24-70 2.8 on it was not good with the weight distribution being all off. But i added the BG-E3 grip and voila...the camera fits my hands perfect in horizontal or vertical position. And big lenses are balanced fine.

 

The viewfinder is small..but I'm not earning my living with this stuff, so its not a big deal to me (and i also own an EOS-3 as my comparision).

 

The only other things i dont like are the lack of the QCD dial and spot metering. Also miss the eye control focus and a fwe other goodies from the EOS-3.

 

The size of the 350d is also a plus as well as a minus. It is cool with the 18-55s lens. weights nothing and perfect for the snapshot stuff at b-day parties, etc.

 

The other plus is the electronics are 2 years newer than the 10d...so speed of operation has got to be better than the 10d. Not sure the about the buffer size on the 10d, but i know the 350d buffer is smaller than the 20d. I can shoot 3 rapid photos in RAW+JPG before I have to stop for a few seconds for the buffer to clear. Start up time is instant. AF is extremely fast.

 

Above, Mark said that the 10d images were better in a review...but i'd seriously doubt that since the 350d and 20d are nearly identical in quality judging from the review on this site. Perhaps that was a review using jpgs, rather than RAW? Haven't seen the review, so i could be wrong...

Hi Victor,

 

I own an EOS-3 and just bought a Digital Rebel XT. Since I've only had the XT for 2 days I haven't fully adjusted, but the main flaws with the XT for me are the small viewfinder, no spot metering and no command dial on the back. The viewfinder doesn't really bug me too much (although its a serious downgrade) and i'll get over it quickly. The lack of spot metering will just bug me occasionaly when i want it :(.... As for the lack of the dial on the back...its going to take some time to get used to since on the EOS-3 I always rotate aperture/shutter speed with the two dials. The small size of the XT is kinda funky, but should cool once I add the BG-e3 grip.

 

So anyhow...i was in the same boat as you..trying to find a digital replace for my eos-3 w/o dropping many g's. I didnt think the 20 was worth the cost diff of $500....my suggestion is use that difference to get a wider angle lens o make up for the crop factor. Maybe a 10-22 or a 17-40. I'm probably going to get the 17-40 soon.

 

Cheers

Keith

Thats the beauty of rebates...in the end it's a manufacturers' scam. They know that 1/2 the folks will not remember to send the rebate claims in. Then another 40% of the forms will be "lost" by the inept company they hire to process the stuff. So they only end up paying out the refund to a small percentage. Hell if Canon really wanted to screw you, they'd offer a $100 rebate on the lens.

 

So basically...if there is a rebate on a product, read it as 'We're trying to screw you!"

 

If they we're offering you a deal, they would lower the wholesale price by the amount they are trying to scam you for on the rebate.

 

Always remember. If it isnt a great deal at the non rebate price, it isnt worth buying.

 

Cheers,

Keith

Hi Paul,

 

Another idea might be to rent some of these lenses you want for a day and try them at a game (70-200mm and 300mm). Rates at the local photo store here seem to be in the $40-$80 range per day. Not a bad investment when you are talking about purchasing $1000-$2000 worth of glass. You'll know for sure whether the lenses is what you want. And quickly discover that even 300mm is still too short a lot of times.

 

As for monopods, for football you definately want one. Pictures will be sharper/better and it makes shooting easier. I haven't shot hockey, although I play it ;) but seems to me that a monopod wouldnt be quite as useful there?

 

Cheers

Keith

Hi Paul,

 

The lens will produce high quality shots in either situation. For indoors you'd need to kick the film speed up a bit to 400, 800 or more depending on the amount of indoor lighting. The problem is that the lens isn't long enough for football. You need a 300mm or greater to get nice full frame shots from the sidelines. Same goes for hockey in that the focal length is lacking.

 

A 70-200mm 2.8 IS lens is probably better suited for a similar price. Or a 300mm f/4 IS. I used the 300 f/4 (non-IS) shooting football and got excellent shots when i was located properly on the sidelines. But even 300mm was too short when the action shifted to the opposite side of the field. So the 70-200mm would be good if you were doing more hockey, and the 300mm better if you were going more football.

 

 

Hope that helps...

Keith

Hi Jim,

 

I was debating the same decision and finally pulled the trigger last night. I bought a 550ex from BH Photo. Since I have an EOS 3 body, the 550 seems to match with it better than the 420. The only reason I was considering a 420 was the reduced weight and price. I think $300 is a ridiculous price for a fancy flashlight though! But I fell for it anyways.

 

The good thing is that you can always sell it on ebay for the same price you paid if it turns out you dont like the flash.

 

Cheers,

Keith

Hi Bill,

 

Let me know if/when you are going to sell the 17-35 or 28-70 lens. I'd be interested in buying them. I'd realy like the new replacemen lenses but just can't afford them.

 

Cheers,

Keith

Thanks for the info Thomas (and others!), I was actually thinking used, but failed to mention it in my post, since my wife was thinking she could get a new digi cam there. I'll check out the shops you mention and see what they have.

 

I'll definately post some picts. When I get back. With any kind of luck we'll be there for the cherry blossoms!

Yeah..I seriously doubt anyone would be willing to take that much of bath on the sale of a used D30. I doubt they'll be less than $900 before years end.

You can get a great deal on a D30 on ebay for $2000 is you want it now.... LOL ;)

Hi All,

 

I'm heading to Japan in a couple of weeks and was going to buy a

550ex speedlite for the trip. But one of my travel books said good

deals can be found in Tokyo on stuff like that. Anyone know if the

prices there are better there than on B&H Photo or Adorama? Or

should I get it in the US before I travel?

 

Thanks

Keith

LMAO!! Judging by the fact that they are hosting their site for $19 a month using a template shopping cart, I'd be absolutely surprised if you actually got what you ordered.

 

They have only a minimum grasp of the english language, if you read anything on their site. How about if you be the guinea pig and report back!

 

Be leary of any shopping site using Microsoft FrontPage!

Hi Scott,

 

Pretty much the same as everyone else...If you have the extra cash to burn, go for the 3. If not, you wont be disappointed with the 7e. I have had my 3 for a bit over a year and love it. Main reasons why I went for the 3 are the fact that it has a 97% viewfinder image(couldn't afford the 100%!!!), and the spot metering. Oh yeah, plus the ego boost from owning a pro caliber rig.

 

The EOS 3 is more complicated to use, but that is only due to the fact that it has more features. An obvious result. The only thing I like more about the 7e that the 3 lacks is the built in flash. And that's just for snapshot use. For anything more complicated you need a better flash. And since you are going the AA route in photography, you most likely wont be doing as much snapshot stuff.

 

Yeah the 3 is worth the price difference...there will always be times you wish you had a built in flash, and there will always be times you wish you had spot metering or a more realistic viewfinder image. Question is, which situation will happen more frequently. Getting a degree in photo will probably cause more of the later situations to arise. If you know what you are doing, both cameras will take excellent pictures.

 

Cheers,

Keith

Hi All,

 

A bit off topic, but oh well! Am I the only one who finds it totally

amusing that people are paying retail prices for USED Canon EOS goods

on eBay. I've been searching for a used 550ex speedlite for a while,

and everyone insisted on paying $300 or more for a used flash from an

unknown entity, that could be purchased new for less (albeit grey

market)) from the big photoshop guns like B&H and Adorama!

 

I feel like yelling "What are you thinking!" It's as if the only

photo store they've been to is Ritz Camera in a mall. Anyhow, I

finally found a used 550ex for $260 (after shipping). Now if only I

could get a EF 17-35 lens for cheap ;) And maybe a 300mm f4 IS.

 

Happy eBaying!

Hi Robert,

 

I bought a Sigma 24-70mm 2.8 EX DF a couple months ago. I like it a lot on my EOS 3. The constant 2.8 aperature is great, as I hate the variable max. aperature concept. The pictures are nice, even at 2.8, although I havent done any hardcore evaluation yet. Since most lenses are non optimal at max aperature, even closing it down to 3.2 or 3.5 beats the Canon big time when its closed down a stop as well.

 

The nice thing about this lens is that you can carry it as your only lens for most situation.

 

The bad thing is that the AF speed seems very slow on the EOS 3, but I have only very old Canon EF lenses which are slow as well, to compare to. I'm not sure how the newer Canon lenses speed are compared to the Sigma.

 

Another thing I dont like is that there are 2 AF switches on the lens (just makes it confusing!) Probably added to get the thing to work on many different mounts (nikon, canon, minotla, etc). And one of them is a barrel slide switch, which i always seem to accidentaly toggle while using the lens.

 

I'd recommend the Sigma if you can't afford the L series canon. Also remember you'll need to kick in 40 to 100 bux on a decent UV filter to protect the huge front element. 82mm filter size I believe.

Thanks for the info guys!

 

Sounds like the 550ex is the way to go. Now I just have to convince my wife ;)

 

Biil: Yeah the lens I listed doesn't exist. I must have been asleep. Its a 135 f/2.8. I got all the numbers wrong!

 

 

Jim: I'm not sure how to tell that the flash AF assist is working only with certain AF points. If I'm shooting with the flash it typical will hunt and peck for a few seconds (long enough for the subjects to lose interest in the photo!) and then the AF system will light up with the few points that it used for focus (in full auto mode). With eye control on, typically whereever I look it will focus. I haven't specifically tried focusing with only the center point to see if it vastly improves speed. I'll test that out.

 

All I know is it is painfully slow.

Hi All,

 

I've got a bit of a flash dilema. I have a Speedlite 420ez and an

EOS 3. The combo works, but is annoying in that it takes forever to

lock in a focus in low light.

 

So I was wondering if it is worth upgrading to a 550ex? I want to

take potraits and was thinking a dual flash system would help.

master/slave. Could I use the 420ez as a slave to the 550ex. Seems

from other posts that that is a less than an optimal configuration.

All the problems with the slave firing before it should...sounds like

a PITA.

 

My plan is to sell the 420ez and buy a 550ex, then save up and buy a

420ex as a slave shortly thereafter? So, as a solo flash, will the

550ex give better AF times than the 420ez (which is painfully

slow!) . I usually use a 24-70 f/2.8 Sigma lens, and a Canon 105

f/1.8. I know the 420ez cant even cover the wide end of my 24mm -

70mm sigma lens.

 

just wondering if my idea is silly or not. Dont want to sell the

420ez if it is worth using with the eos 3.

 

Cheers

Keith