steve_brantley2

DIGITAL MICRO FOUR THIRDS CAMERA

• Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III (latest new model, purchased within the past 6 months, minimal use)

 

Olympus CS-51B Body Jacket (Black leather half case)

 

2 LENSES

• Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 17 mm f/1.8 Lens & Olympus LH-48B Lens Hood for M.Zuiko Digital 17mm f/1.8 Lens (Black)

 

• Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 30mm f/3.5 Macro Lens

 

All items are MINT/As New, with original boxes, cables, battery & charger, instruction manuals & warranty cards. Perfect working order and cosmetically pristine. Compare my sale price of $770 to the new B&H Photo online cost of $1,450 for the same items.

 

Location of Olympus items is central North Carolina.

 

Call Steve at (919) 245-2326

I had the M262 for almost one year but sold it when I got on the M10 waiting list. After a 6 week wait the M10 arrived and now I can compare the two cameras. I prefer the M10's improved viewfinder - it is just easier and faster for me to frame and precisely focus, compared to using the M262. i feel much more confident that I have focused correctly with the M10. That's one of the key reasons I upgraded, since I need reading glasses. Second, I noticed with the M262 that I missed not having live view for framing (being a former Fuji and Olympus shooter). I often shoot landscapes with a tripod and sometimes the camera is rather low to the ground with a tripod. The M10's live view lets me frame the scene easier, and focus easier. The focus peaking is an alternate focus method that can also helps in such instances. And third, if I use a super wide lens outside of my in-camera frame lines, (such as Voigtlander 21mm), the live view lets me see what an ultra wide lens sees and will yield, prior to taking the shot. With the M262, I had to first take the image, then turn on view/replay to see the actual image, reframe and readjust the horizon, etc. and then try another shot. Then I'd need to delete the first test images that were off. So live view is a tool that lets you avoid these extra steps. Untreated, as a benefit of the M10, I don't usually shoot at a high ISO setting, but the M10 is said to be highly improved in this capability. However, the one thing I am still trying to improve is the M10's tendency to overexposure and give blown highlights. I am compensating now by dialing in a - ⅓ EV compensation as standard. I think my old M262 was more reliable in the sense that I didn't suffer blown highlights as much. I believe the way to shoot with the M10 in bright, contrasty situations is to slightly underexpose, expose for there highlights, and then recover the shadows in RAW post processing.

The Fujifilm X-E2S digital camera (black body) was purchased only 10 days ago. Mint, as-new condition, with the original box, instruction manual, Fuji battery & charger, and camera strap. My price also includes the Fujifilm HG-XE1 Hand Grip (with original box), a hot shoe mounted (Fotasy brand) thumb grip, & a soft release shutter button cap (in black, to match the camera body).

(B&H Photo new sale price is $625 for the camera & $129 for the grip: total $749). My sale price is $400 for all items, which includes insured UPS or FEDEX shipping to a USA address.

Selling because I moved into a different camera brand.

Location is Chapel Hill, NC. For inquires text Steve at (919) 428-4320.

A total of 81 images for last weekend's Cold Harbor event can be viewed on my photo web site, as follows: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://triumph.smugmug.com/...57_rgFmdJ/1328731206_5fQDhgh#1328728945_cPmDKmF" target="_blank">http://triumph.smugmug.com/...57_rgFmdJ/1328731206_5fQDhgh#1328728945_cPmDKmF</a>

 

<p>Other Civil War (and Colonial) battle reenactment events that I photographed in my home state of North Carolina in 2010 can be found on the main web site, as follows:<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://triumph.smugmug.com/" target="_blank">http://triumph.smugmug.com/</a> <br>

Best regards,</p>

 

<p>Greetings. I have been using Olympus DSLR and PEN cameras for awhile now, and I am always amazed at the magic these cameras can provide. Lately, I have been testing my micro four thirds PENS (E-P2 and E-PL2) to try and replicate results similar to what my my E-3 and E-5 can show, and I find the PEN cameras to be superb alternatives to carrying around the heavy DSLR equipment.<br>

<br /> The following gallery of PEN images were made with the new E-PL2 and the new generation Zuiko 14-42mm II zoom lens. Where I have provided an illustration of the Dramatic Tone art filter, I have first posted a normal image made with the i-Enhance shooting mode, followed by the Dramatic Tone art filter shot. Most of the time, I find the mode of the Dramatic Tone result to be very interesting and ethereal. My E-PL2 photographs were made primarily of items for sale at the Raleigh Flea Market in North Carolina, and I have included a few motorcycle images of my Triumph Truxton. Please take a look and feel free to give any feedback, criticisms, etc.<br>

http://triumph.smugmug.com/Photography/Olympus-PEN-E-PL2-Samples/15996464_fxVTu#1199997448_DCvVo<br>

<br /> My general photo web site is here: http://triumph.smugmug.com and I have other examples of PEN E-P2 images, Olympus E-5 images, and many other subjects. Most all images were originally shot in RAW at an ISO range of 100-200, Aperture priority, single center focus point, image stabilization turned on, and processed with Capture One software.<br>

<br /> Regards,<br /> Steve in Chapel Hill, NC</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Here is my advice - read this and learn how to get the best out of your fine E-3 Olympus camera: <br>

http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/43/e3-sett.html</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Ted, your PEN E-PL1 should have an interesting Pin Hole art filter that gives some interesting results. But if you want to replicate the Dramatic Tone feature, you'd need either the new Olympus E-5 DSLR, or the new PEN E-PL2 that sould be available for sale in a few week, for $600. In addition, you may be able to get the Dramatic Tone art filter after the fact, when using the new version of Olympus' Viewer 2 software, and shoooting in RAW (and JPEG?). That way, I think you can gain the Dramatic Tone art filter via the Viewer 2 software, evem though your E-PL1 does not have the feature. But I 'm not 100% sure. Open up one of your E-PL1 images in Viewer 2 and see it its available.</p>

<p >Needing photographic inspiration but lacking good colorful subject matter here in the cold gloom of winter, I recently took the E-5 and 12-60mm to the superb North Carolina Museum of Art, close to home. I attempted to make my amateurish photo "art" from the real art on display by composing or cropping a smaller part of my E-5's image within the actual classical and modern art paintings and sculptures there, and generally not including the actual frame or overall dimension. I used available light, no flash or tripod, ISO 400-500, shot in RAW and processed all images with Capture One Express 6. The museum has no restrictions on photography in this manner, except for a "no flash" rule, and I could not photograph any special showing requiring a paid ticket (such as the current Norman Rockwell display). The museum's security people never hassled me at all.<br>

As I like to use the E-5's Dramatic Tone art filter to see what kind of result, and sometimes a surprise that comes from it, I shot one image first in the Normal mode, followed by a second, identical composition in the Dramatic Tone setting. It was very interesting to see how the Dramatic Tone filter renders certain colors, and how it can give a completely different impression from the original painting or sculpture. (It is also easy to just use Viewer 2 to add an art filter effect after the fact).<br>

If anyone is interested in seeing some of the museum's artwork I photographed, and especially in the interesting impact the Dramatic Tone setting gave, please feel free to take a look, comment, criticize, etc. The 80-some images are presented with the "Normal" mode shot shown first, followed by the same image under the Dramatic Tone setting. And at the very end of the presentation, I went ahead and included 5 or 6 misc. photos (but without the Dramatic Tone example) that I nevertheless liked and added to round out the compilation. Perhaps some of you will find the images of interest, certainly colorful, and perhaps like to see a different approach to using the Dramatic Tone to produce interesting variations. Museum art lovers may or may not approve of my style, however! Regards.<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://triumph.smugmug.com/Art/E-5-in-the-art-museum/15419836_CNyXE#1154307378_kkZdj" target="_blank">http://triumph.smugmug.com/...-the-art-museum/15419836_CNyXE#1154307378_kkZdj</a><br>

Other image folders are here:<br /><a href="http://triumph.smugmug.com/">http://triumph.smugmug.com</a></p>

<p >Greetings. I have uploaded 53 E-5 images to my "Raleigh Flea Market" gallery, and invite any and all reviews, critiques, etc. The first 53 images were primarily shot at ISO 100 with the 12-60mm SWD lens, RAW, and processed with Capture One's Express 6 software. The remainder of the images are predominantly E-3 RAW images, with a few PEN E-P2 and E-620 RAW images mixed in, processed with Capture One 5. The style I have attempted to present is to give a close-up view of unique items that I found while browsing the flea market's vendor tables:<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://triumph.smugmug.com/Other/Raleigh-Flea-Market/11109116_4z97Z#1144996636_BY8pL" target="_blank">http://triumph.smugmug.com/...igh-Flea-Market/11109116_4z97Z#1144996636_BY8pL</a><br>

I am still trying to learn the E-5 in terms of ideal ISO settings and post processing (sharpening presets, etc.), so I am still working at it.<br>

Other Olympus E-3 images folders (flower macros, living history reenactment events, etc.) can be found here:<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://triumph.smugmug.com/" target="_blank">http://triumph.smugmug.com/</a><br>

Regards.</p>

<p>Greetings. I 'd like to get some advice from Olympus Viewer 2 software users regarding your sharpness procedures and settings.<br>

When I double click a RAW or JPEG photo in the Browse window and it opens in the Image Edit screen, the right side of the screen shows an "Edit" tab as well as a "Raw" tab adjacent to it. Now within the "Edit" tab, there is a "Sharpness & Blur" feature, and below it is an "Unsharp Mask" feature. The adjacent "Raw" tab has its own "Sharpness" adjustment feature.<br>

Given these options, what do you do to add some sharpness to an JPEG image, as well as a RAW image? Do you utilize all of these choices, or some combination? This is quite confusing, and not explained to any extent in Viewer 2's on-line help.<br>

Also, considering the "Unsharp Mask" feature, what rule-of-thumb settings do you recommend for the Strength, Radius and Threshold sliders?<br>

Thanks for any and all comments.</p>

<p>Greetings. I have uploaded quite a few Olympus images this past year highlighting the output potential and image quality of the excellent E-3, new E-5 and E-620 DSLRs, and the PEN E-P2 micro four thirds. Most all images were shot in RAW and processed with Capture One (non-pro version) software. Specific photo galleries include flower macros, motor sports, Civil War battle reenactments, landscapes, motorcycles and transportation, and flea market collectibles. You are welcome to take a look, criticize, leave comments here, etc. <br>

Regards.</p>

<p>http://triumph.smugmug.com</p>

 

<p>I vote for the optically superior 50-200mm SWD lens.</p>

<p>Charlie, yes I have one flower image that was made with the Zuiko 12-60mm SWD lens, and the 4/3 to micro 4/3 lens adapter. The iEnhance setting is new for the E-P2 and the E-PL1.</p>

<p>Greg, yes, my art filter images retain their art filter appearance when I open the RAW files with Capture One 5.2 (no pro version). The advantage of using Olympus' Viewer 2 software is that I can select all of the other art filters as well, which I cannot do with Capture One.</p>

<p >I am finding my new PEN E-P2 and Zuiko 14-42 lens to be a great travel combination, and I am amazed to see many of my results are as good as my professional DSLR Olympus E-3. I have prepared a special image folder of a few close-up flower images (usually shot at ISO 100, Aperture mode, iEnhance setting), and also some examples of my favorite art filters used at a static display of old train engines and antique cars at the North Carolina Transportation Museum: pinhole, diorama, and grainy black & white. These images can be found here in the "featured gallery" photo folder:<br>

<a href="http://triumph.smugmug.com/">http://triumph.smugmug.com</a><br>

All images are RAW and post-processed with Capture One 5.2 software.<br>

The diorama art filter can truly transform an image into a toy model rendition, while the pinhole art filter gives a great patina antique look, especially with the right subject matter. I also find the grainy black & white art filter to work very well. I have attempted to show some identical images of old trains and cars first taken without an art filter setting (I call it the standard mode), and then I repeated the same shot with the diorama, pinhole, and grainy black & white art filters. Regards.</p>

<p>For the longest time I shopped for a GF-1, since I previously owned the super Lumix LX-3, and was impressed by it. However, as is still largely the case, the GF-1 has been very difficult to find, at least with the small prime lens included with the body. I was able to see one in November when I took a business trip to Japan, and liked it a lot. BIC Camera in Tokyo had a display with the black, flat red, and white enamel camera bodies. But I noticed the Japanese shoppers were spending more time at the Olympus PEN EP-1 booth which was adjacent. Personally, as I am an Olympus E-3 DSLR owner who values in-camera image stabilization, I just could not rationalize spending so much for the GF-1 when the nice prime lens and body combination are not image stabilized at all. That is my primary reason I would advise getting the EP-1 in general, because any 4/3 lens will fit, AND the total camera package will be image stabilized, unlike the Panasonic GF-1. Also, the EP-1 has true stereo sound with the video recording, and HD image quality that is higher than the Lumix can deliver. As far as the write-ups about the EP-1 focusing slow, I believe that is way overblown.<br>

My limited use and photo test shots made with the Olympus showed me that the focusing speed was just fine, and the view screen was also OK. It seems that the write-ups that praise the GF-1 as being the better choice because it has the better view screen, or the faster focusing, seem to forget that the end result should be the actual quality of the digital image taken, and not how it looks on the 3" camera screen. That said, either camera is great and I wish I could afford one of each. In Tokyo I also learned that Panasonic is planning to release a host of Leica branded lens for the GF-1, such as a macro prime, and a short 90mm tele. But the price will be clsoe to $1,000 each. I think its a mistake to sink so much money into this camera system when the same money could buy a DSLR with a lot more bells and whistles.<br /> <br /> I have weighed the decision for a few months now, between the EP-2 and the GF-1, and also watched the prices fall for the EP-1 over the holidays to around $650. Then the black body EP-1, at $1,000 was announced. I would rather have the EP-2 mostly for the black aesthetic attraction I like. But in the end, I bought a very small sized Olympus E-620 DSLR (currently $549 on Amazon) as my second, daily carry-around camera. Why? I got more camera (a true viewfinder, an attached flash, a moveable view screen), for a lot less money than either the EP-1 and especially compared to the GF-1. There's just no video mode. I think the EP-1 and the GF-1, with their respective zoom lens attached, are not much smaller than my E-620 and the 14-42mm kit lens.</p>

<p>There is one for sale, very lightly used by me for a few weeks, at Southeastern Camera in Raleigh, NC. They will probably ask $1,300 for it, to include the Leica lens. I think the answer to your question is relevent to any four thirds sensor sized camera, to include the Olympus line. Perhaps you can seek out other Olympus dedicated web forums (Four Thirds Forums) and get a more thorough response to your question. I don't see too much activity here on the photo.net form concerning 4/3 cameras, so I think those owners follow other web forms more.</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for their ideas.  After a long telephone call with a very knowledgeable Canon tech support guy, I was advised to uninstall all of my Canon software, and reinstall everything (not from the Canon website, as I had been doing) directly from a Canon EOS Digital Solution Disk.  So that is my plan for tonight.  Not only is my DPP crashing repeatedly, but ZoomBrowser shows thumbnail images for some folders' JPEG and/or RAW photos, and only shows RAW thumbnails on other folders, but not the JPEGs.  So my PC has a few problems with Canon software.  Regards.</p>

 

<p><span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">I am searching for advice about how to troubleshoot Canon's DPP imaging software, which I have come to prefer as my favorite RAW processor for 5D files.</span><br>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">DPP routinely freezes and then kicks me out whenever I open a new folder of RAW images.  Whenever I begin to open a file and watch the thumbnail images start to load on the monitor, an error window suddenly pops open and says something like "Microsoft has encountered a program and needs to close". The program never occurred when I first started to learn DPP months ago, but now it occurs so frequently that I cannot use DPP at all with newer RAW images.  I can usually open up older JPEG image folders and review or edit them, but even then, DPP sometimes crashes in the middle of a work flow.</span><br>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">I have reinstalled the latest version of DPP (version 3.5.1) more than once, and also called Canon customer service several times, with no assistance rendered.  Nothing works.</span><br>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">My review of this problem in the archives of Photo.net, FLickr and other forums gives very little direction, and virtually all of the archived discussions talks about DPP crashing on Apple systems.  I can find nothing about Windows being affected, though that is my problem.</span><br>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">My computer, which runs on Windows XP, has been thoroughly checked for registry errors, viruses, malware, etc., and all is clean.  My computer has 2 gig of RAM memory running and plenty of remaining hard drive capacity.  The start-up menu has also been cleared of all unnecessary applications that might task the processor of RAM memory.  I even turn off my Trend Micro virus/internet security program when I try to use DPP.</span><br>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif";">Before I completely give up on DPP, I hope to receive any guidance about how to fix the problem.  Thanks in advance for any advice.</span></p>

<p><span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'">I need some advice

about how to troubleshoot Canon's DPP imaging software, which I have come to prefer as my favorite RAW

processor for 5D files.</span><br>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: blac

k; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'">DPP

routinely freezes and then kicks me out whenever I open a new folder of RAW images.  Whenever I begi

n to open a file and watch the thumbnail images start to load on the monitor, an error window sudde

nly pops open and says something like "Microsoft has encountered a program and needs to close". The program ne

ver occurred when I first started to learn DPP months ago, but now it occurs so frequently that I

cannot use DPP at all with newer RAW images.  I can usually open up older JPEG image folders a

nd review or edit them, but even then, DPP sometimes crashes in the middle of a work flow.</span><br>

 

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'">I have reinstal

led the latest version of DPP (version 3.5.1) more than once, and also called Canon customer service 

several times, with no assistance rendered.  Nothing works.</span><br>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR

: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'">My review of this problem

in the archives of Photo.net, FLickr and other forums gives very little direction, and virtually all of the a

rchived discussions talks about DPP crashing on Apple systems.  I can find nothing about Windows being affected,

though that is my problem.</span><br>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','s

ans-serif'">My computer, which runs on&

nbsp;Windows XP, has been thoroughly checked for registry errors, viruses, malware, etc., and al

l is clean.  My computer has 2 gig of RAM memory running and plenty of remaining hard drive capacity.&n

bsp; The start-up menu has also been cleared of all unnecessary applications that might task the processor of

RAM memory.  I even turn off my Trend Micro virus/internet security program when I try to use DPP.</sp

an><br>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana','sans-serif'">Before I completely g

ive up on DPP, I hope to re

ceive any guidance about how to fix the problem.  Thanks in advance for any advice.</span><br>

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Open DPP, and along the top of the horizontal menu items, select Tools, Preferences, Tool palette, and you will see the 0 to 20 scale sliders for luminance and chrominance with TIFF/JPEG. I have them set to zero on my PC. Also, near the bottom of that screen, you will see the blue letters for "Default noise reduction settings" and the choice to click either "Apply camera settings" or "Set as defaults". Clicking the second choice, "Set as defaults" will allow you to determine the luminance and chrominance levels for RAW images. Set them to zero. Again, on my PC, they are set by default to zero. So if you want to tweak individual images one by one, you will now be starting with zero settings for luminance and chrominance. I can recommend a small but helpful band of DPP faithful who have a DPP discussion forum on Flicker.com

 

I am unsure of the appropriate level to set chrominance and luminance, as going up too high (up to a 3 setting with the 0 to scale scale on DPP version 3.4.1) results in softening of the image, in my opinion. I read onthe Flicker forum that setting chrominance no higher than 3 is a good rule of thumb, and to leave luminance at 0. I am still experimenting with it.

I owned a 20D, and now have the 5D. The 5D offers advantages over the 50D in terms of overall superior image quality, lower noise at higher ISO settings, and the ability to take wider angle landscape shots (such as with the 17-70 L lens). Comparable images taken with the 5D and the 50D should begin to show obvious differences when you enlarge the photos up to 100X or 200X, although those images wold look rather similar when viewd as a 4" by 6" print. The choice is not easy, especially when looking at the 50D's more developed menu options, DIGIC IV image processor, the lower price, and anti-dust technology.

I owned and loved a G9, which I took to China last year and made hundereds of images. It was a great camera to 'hold", and not heavy or cumbersome. But as I am also a full frame Canon 5D user who is spoiled with the high quality images made with that DSLR, I found I had little patience with the G9's frequently blown out highlights and noise (at ISO of 400 or higher), due to the very small image sensor. As a result, I sold the G9, and upon my more recent China trip, carried around the 5D. My images on this second trip are just so much better. In conclusion, I would say the G9 or G10 is a great camera for someone taking birthday type photos and developing consumer quality 4" by 6" prints. But if someone told me to go travel abroad and take either a G10 or the XSI, I would take the XSI without hesitation.

On Oct. 24th, Canon posted the Windows and Mac instruction manuals for the new (and slightly improved) version 3.5

Digital Photo Professional. Canon EOS customer service told me today that their web link should be updated within the next

few days to allow for a download. The new 50D is currently being distributed with DPP 3.5 installed. Unfortunately, what I

hoped to see - horizon correction - has not beeen added. Basically the DPP 3.5 version shows focus points on an image,

and allows for more lens corrections. But nothing more seems to be added other than these two features. Anyway, I love

using DPP for my RAW images, and now rarely use Photoshop anymore now that I learned to appreciate DPP's ease and

speed of use. Regards.

The main http://wwwcanoneos.com/consumer web site now shows the new body, with the name 5D Mark II.

And here is a Canon report on the 5D Mark II's "Quick Control Screen" feature.

 

http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&articleID=2026