pimderuijter

<p>Hi Jonathan,<br>

Thanks for your response. I was pretty surprised by the quality of my Macbook Pro screen. It is bright and seems to be pretty accurate with colors and contrast (although I first have to calibrate it for accurate photo editing).<br>

Does anyone else has specific experience with the Spyder 3 on glossy (aluminium) MacBook Pro screens?<br>

Regards, Pim</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I intent to buy a Datacolor Spyder 3 Pro for calibration of my Macbook Pro 13" (mid 2009). This notebook has a glossy screen and I am wondering if this works properly. I could not find information about this topic on this forum or others. Who has experience with this? Does someone has advice about calibration on the Macbook?<br>

Thanks for your time!<br>

Regards, Pim</p>

<p>Peter, thanks for the overview! I'm trying Lightroom 3 BETA for a few weeks now and I really like it. Before I used Capture One 4, which also worked for me, but Lightroom has many advantages.</p>

<p>I was wondering: can we expect a publish function for publishing photos straight from LR to Photo.net?</p>

<p>Regards, Pim</p>

<p>Here you go :)! I didn't use a tripod on these photos as I wasn't allowed to take it with me in the hand baggage.</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8558719-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="455" /><br>

(<a href="../photo/8558719">http://www.photo.net/photo/8558719</a>)</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8558720-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="408" /><br /><br>

(<a href="../photo/8558720">http://www.photo.net/photo/8558720</a>)<br>

<br /></p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8558717-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="454" /><br>

(<a href="../photo/8558717">http://www.photo.net/photo/8558717</a>)<br>

<br /></p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8558718-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="448" /><br>

(<a href="../photo/8558718">http://www.photo.net/photo/8558718</a>)</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8560264-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="454" /><br>

(<a href="../photo/8560264">http://www.photo.net/photo/8560264</a>)<br>

<br /></p>

<p>Just came back from my holiday in the Northern part of Sweden. Had a really great time there :). The landscape is amazing and did some cool things. (Un)fortunately we had only very low temps (-25C) at night. During daytime we experienced temps like -10C to -15C.</p>

<p>My D200 functioned very well. No problems with staggering shutters or real performance problems. As mentioned here some things tend to slow down like the LCD and the LCD in the viewer. Also autofocus worked little slower but still worked fine.<br>

Using a plastic bag when going inside worked fine, had no problems with condensation.<br>

A problem up North is the low light conditions. Even around noon there is still less light and sun won't come over the horizon. So using high ISO was a must as I didn't take my tripod with me. <br>

We've also seen some Northern Light (Aurora) in the nights. It's quite interesting to see that we see the light as white while digital cameras capture it as green. There is also much difference between DSLRs in capturing the light. With my D200 it took 30" at ISO 1000 to catch it at nice brightness and color while a friend of mine with a Canon 350D could do it with 15" at ISO 400-800. Strange.</p>

<p>Thank you again for your tips, they have been very helpful to me! </p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>Matt: it's good to keep in mind that plastics (and other materials) are more fragile in low temps. Didn't realize that. Fingers crossed for the white clips in the MB-D200. I have mine for a year now, still without problems, but I mentioned they are fragile for this kind of gear. Didn't know that its possible to buy spare parts of Nikon gear. Do they sell it worldwide or only in USA?</p>

<p>Oskar: I think you're right. The odds getting a wet D200 are low. I shall be aware of snow/ice on the body/lens when going inside and wipe them of. Unfortunately, no tripod on this holiday for me :(. I cannot take it with me in the aircaft as it is too large for handluggage and I cannot check it in. </p>

<p>Robert: thanks for the nice photo :)!</p>

<p>Thank you all guys! Your responses are very welcome! Best wishes to all!<br>

Regards, Pim</p>

<p>Thank you all so much for your responses on my questions! I'm more confident now to use my D200 out there. <br>

Here in The Netherlands we didn't have temps like -20C since I was born, occasionally the temperature lowers to -10C at night. So I think it's more likely I have problems at -20C - -25C than my D200 does ;).</p>

<p>I will buy a rain-sleeve to cover my D200 and lens in case of snow, hope that will be enough protection for my 'cheap' 18-70 lens. I'm afraid I can't leave my camera and bag outside as we will stay in a youth-hostel over there. <br>

I will shop for a zip-bag, a rain-sleeve and some very warm clothes! Really looking forward for the cold and snow!!</p>

<p>Matt: It's interesting that the CCD will possibly work even better in the cold. I will not be able to test it, but for the D200 it would be great if it gives less noise in the cold at higher ISO. ;)</p>

<p>Epp: thank you for your comment! You gave me some very good tips!</p>

<p>Jose: I never heard glass is more breakable at low temps or get scratched more easily. But I wouldn't be surprised if it is.</p>

<p>Thank you all for your time!<br>

Regards, Pim</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

In a few weeks I will go to the northern part of Sweden for a holiday and some photo-shoots. There will be -of course- a lot of snow and low temperatures down to -25C. I will use my Nikon D200 with MB-D200 battery grip and a Nikkor AF-S 18-70 G. <br>

While searching in the forums about this subject I found some interesting discussions (<a href="../nikon-camera-forum/00NH85">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00NH85</a>). Additional to the answers I already found in this discussion, I have some more questions.<br>

- Is it safe to use the MB-D200 in low temperature and weather conditions with snow, or better use the D200 without it so there is only the weather-seal of the camera?<br>

- What to do if camera or lens is wet? Dry it slowly or warm/dry it 'actively' near to a heat source?<br>

- What camera functions will be affected by the cold? Will cold influence functioning of the sensor, AF? (I know battery life shortens).<br>

- Other tips for using my gear in the cold/snow?<br>

Thank you in advance!<br>

Best wishes for 2009! Regards, Pim</p>

HI all,

Thank you for your reply's. I think I can summarize the next: RAM is the thing to go for, but processor speed can limit your

possibility's for future software. I must admit that 2.0 Ghz/4GB would be sufficient for my use, because heavy image processing

isn't really my thing. But the argument for the future compatibility is an important issue because of (possible) upcoming updates of

LR, PS and Max OS X.

Another option is to buy the 'old' White Macbook 2.4 Ghz and upgrade it to 4GB. But the new Macbook has a more decent build

and an upgraded graphics system ( or isn't that very relevant for RAW/Imageprocessing?).

Regards, PIm

Yesterday Apple announced a new line of MacBooks. I intent to buy a new notebook and I think about stepping over

to Mac. At the moment I have a Windows HP laptop (4 years old) which I use for officeworks and RAW processing

(which goes slow). The new 13" 2.0 Ghz MacBook version is the size I'm looking for and the build and design look

great to me. Because of my budget I think the 2.0 Ghz MB is the best price for me.

Maybe one of you could answer this: what does matter for editing of RAW photos with Lightroom 2, PS CS3/4 or

Aperture 2: its CPU-speed or its amount of RAM? I think about upgrading the RAM of de MB 2.0 Ghz to 4 Gb of

RAM. Does the difference between 2.0 Ghz and 2.4 Ghz really matters for image editing? Thank you for your tips!

Regards, Pim

Well, there is a new line-up of MacBooks. At the moment I also have a HP laptop (4 years old) and I intent to buy a new MB. The 13"

version is the size I'm looking for and the build and design look great to me. Because of my budget I think the 2.0 Ghz MB is the best

buy for me. Maybe one of you could answer this: what does matter for editing of RAW photos with Lightroom 2, PS CS3/4 or Aperture

2: its processor-speed or its RAM? I think about upgrading the RAM of de MB 2.0 Ghz to 4 Gb.

Thank you for your tips!

Hi Peter, where can we find the information you wrote or isn't it published yet? Looking forward to it, your posts about sharpening were very enlighting to me. Thank you!

Regards, Pim

Thank you all for your answers. I have Capture One LE and Capture One 4 Beta2 both. Version 4 Beta2 is a newer version of LE and the real version will be released next year which is free for users of the LE version. C1 LE is a nice program and gives good results, C1 4 has more functions and a better interface.

I did use PS Elements 2 but after reinstalling my computer I intent to upgrade to Elements 6. I can use Lightroom for converting from RAW and do image adjustments, but then I will miss the functionality from Elements to correct parts of the image.

It's a pity that it isn't possible to set ACR to give also the additional options you can use in CS3.

Hi Ellis,

Thanks, I have seen Lightroom by a friend and I must admit that I loved it from the moment I saw it. At this moment I cannot affort it but I will buy it in the future. Until then I will have to use PSE 6 with ACR or C1 4.

Hello,

I used a trial version of Adobe Photoshop Elements 6 and I used the ACR (Adobe

Camera RAW) to convert RAW. At the internet I saw some screenshots from ACR 4.2

in Photoshop CS3. It seems to me that you have more options to adjust in the PS

CS3 ACR than in the Elements 6 version. I downlaoded the latest version of ACR

from the website of Adobe and installed it. Still there are limited options to

adjust in Elements 6 with ACR 4.2 compared to what I saw at the screenshots

from PS CS3. Is there a difference or is it just me?

As PS CS3 is too expensive for me, can someone tell me if it is possible to get

all (pro) the adjustmens in ACR in the Elements version?

I also have the beta-version of Capture One 4, it looks promising and it has a

lot of values to set. What would you advice; ACR or Capture One 4?

Thanks for your answers!

Pim