jamesrachal
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Posts posted by jamesrachal
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Does anyone know of a Best Buy in your area that has a Canon 10D in
stock. I have one ordered through my local Best Buy, but it has been
on back order for two weeks. The manger would have it brought in from
another store if I can locate one.
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I had the 180mm black lens serviced (CLA) about five years ago. It cost $85.00 at a local shop, here in Atlanta.
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Here is a pic of area in question:
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I have two Mamiya RZ67 bodies. The serial numbers are different. I
just aquired one which has an H117*** and the other only has numbers
112***. I was comparing the two bodies and notice that inside the
camera body where the shutter knob is located I can see a small
circuit board and some capacitors of some sort. On my other body a
black plate covers this up.Both cameras appear to be complete with no
parts missing, just different design of this area. Were there design
changes within the same make of bodies? Which is the newer of the two
bodies. Are either of them prone to light leaks through the shutter
knob in this area? Why the differance?
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Scans to post pictures on this site and to make casual prints at home on a inkjet printer. If I need quality prints, I would have done with film photgraphically. I have a Mamiya Rz 67 and a Canon 1N. I am looking for a scanning solution that would work well with both formats. If I need print quality scans for commercial use, I would have those done somewhere. I would still like to be able to get good quality scans for my personal use. What brand scaner should I look for?
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What are you using to scan 6 x 7 slides and negatives to produce
digital output. Work flow?
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I just recently bought an RZ67 camera with the 110 mm RZ lens. The
shutter does not appear to change speeds on the different shutter
settings. I set the camera on M. I took the back off. When I press
the shutter release button at the different shutter sppeds they all
seem to be the same speed. The battery is showing up as being good.
How can I test the shutter speeds? The shutter button release is set
white to white.
Thanks,
James
Send replies to jrachal@bellsouth.net
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What is the max print sizes users are printing from this camera with
good results? I had a Canon D30. Can I expect results close to that
camera? I shoot my kids sports and am looking for something quicker.
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After veiwing several pages of photos, the images stop displaying. Is
there something wrong with Photo net or is there something I need to
change in my browser settings. I am using Windows 2000 with IE6. If I
close out my browser, restart it and open photo.net, images start
displaying correctly again, but then quit after about 10 pages.
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I have an Eos 3 and a D30. The D30 will make great prints up to 8 x 10 and even larger. I find that I don't use my EOS 3 at all, prefering to shoot with the D30. The AF is slow in low light and you will have to deal with the shutter lag and 3 FPS. Not an idea camera for Sports but great for portraits, snapshots, etc.
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Does the d10 have the same kind of command dial as the old Eos A2?
Push button in and turn to different shooting profiles. If so, has
anyone had any problems with it?
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I am shooting in raw format with a Eos D30. I download my files to
the harddrive and open BreezeBrowser to convert to .tif files
(Canon's software sucks). I will be proofing and doing some prints on
an Epson Stylus 600 using photo quality gloss paper. I will take my
best prints to Sam's Fuji Frontier. I will be producing 8 x 10, 11 x
14 and 4 x 6. I have the folloing questions concerning the settings
to use for best results.
In Breezebrowser:
Tiff resolution resolution (DPI) 180 default or ?
Under the settings for raw processing(Enable postprocessing settings)
Saturation ?
Gamma ?
Sharpen settings ?
save as 8 bit or 16 bit.
DPI setting?
Thanks,
James
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What flash units will work well with my Eos 3 and D30 cameras? I
would like to buy a 420 EX. I would like a 550 Ex but don't have the
funds. Sunpack, Sigma or Metz? Pros and cons of the 420ex?
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I picked the lens up this afternoon. It works fine on both my EOS 3 and on my D30. It is much faster on the Eos 3. It is noisy. It has the 82mm filter size. Thanks for the quick responce.
James
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Anyone using this older lens (Sigma 70-210 APO 2.8 (older non HSM))
on Eos bodies with an Eos 3 or Eos 30D. Is it noisy when focusing?
Any compatibility problems?
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I have decided to keep the EOS 3. My Nikon equipment just went up on E-B*y. I had an A2E before the Nikon and had really liked it a lot. I sold it because of the problems people were having with the command dial. I like the lighter weight of the Eos 3. I like the multi spot metering function. It has very fast AF. Much faster than the F4, unless you are using very fast glass on the F4. I will miss the built in diopter. I don't mind the 97% viewfinder. I like the eye control, it works well for me. I am not a Pro, I take pictures of my three kids. They all play sports. I wanted something to shoot with, that would be quick AF and I could trust exposure on Auto. I don't have a lot of time to play with my hand held meter or to spot meter with the Nikon F4. My F4 would always overexspose on very contrasty scenes. The Eos 3 is spot on.
What are the most common special functions to set up on my Eos 3? I have reduced the Af to 11 sensors and have linked the spot meter to the sensor. Any other suggetions for special functions?
Has anyone used the Sigma 70-210 HSM 2.8 on this camera? Optical quality? Any problems?
Do I need the 550 EX or can I use the 420EX for what I shoot. Will the 420 EX work with a D30?
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I have aquired an Eos 3 in mint condition. It has the Pb-e1 battery
pack. I have a Nikon F4s in mint- condition with a Sb 25 flash, EF
50mm 1.8 metal mount lens and EF 70-210 F4 lens. I am trying to
decide if I should sale the Nikon equipment and go with Canon. I
really like the Eos 3, but the Nikon seems so much better contructed.
Can I get the pros and cons of each to help me make up my mind. Which
ever I sale, I will also buy a used digital camera to go with it.
Either an Eos D30 or Fuji S1. Need help!!!!!
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When getting an exposure reading in matrix mode, I am getting an
overexposure of one to two stops difference than my Sekonic incident
meter or a spot reading off of a gray card with the cameras spot
meter. This has been on very contrasty sunny days with some clouds. I
shot some film and the shadows had excellent detail but the
highlights were washed out on my prints. (Kodak 200 print film).The
negatives were dense and appeared to have detail in the highlights. I
would blame the color lab, but I am seeing a differance in the
exposure between the camera and the hand held incident meter. I have
noticed it most when there are dark woods in the background (half of
the picture and large bright grassy field in the foreground. Is the
meter picking a happy medium between the two? I thought the matrix
mode was suppose to be fairly accurate in about 90% of situations? I
had a Canon A2E before and it was usually dead on exposure in same
situations. I must admit, this it forcing me to be more methodical it
setting exposure and takinking readings. Also makes me look for
things that might throw the meter off instead of just pointing and
shooting.
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I have a Nikon F4. It will not fire the shutter if the back of the
camera is open. The film spool turns but the shutter does not open.Is
this normal? I am trying to look through to the lens to check lens
aperature when firing.
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I have a Nikon F4. The autofocus drive mechanism would not stay out
after pushing in the lens release button. I took the lens mount off
of the camera (4 screws). Everything looked fine and I replaced back
on. After pushing the lens release in and out a lot of times it is
now working as it should. The camera had not been used in a while.
Everything appears to be working correctly. The autofocus focuses
like it should. My question is: By taking off the lens mount, does
anything get out of alignment? Does the autofocus have to be re-
aligned? I did not think about an alignment issue untill after I had
removed it.There are no adjustments that can be made to the mount.
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I have a Nikon F4. The autofocus drive mechanism would not stay out
after pushing in the lens release button. I took the lens mount off
of the camera (4 screws). Everything looked fine and I replaced back
on. After pushing the lens release in and out a lot of times it is
now working as it should. The camera had not been used in a while.
Everything appears to be working correctly. The autofocus focuses
like it should. My question is: By taking off the lens mount, does
anything get out of alignment? Does the autofocus have to be re-
aligned? I did not think about an alignment issue untill after I had
removed it.There are no adjustments that can be made to the mount.
canon 10d
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted