jerry_curtis

<p>This was a tough one. I wanted to get GPS coordinates into my Exif data. Rather than spend close to $200 for hardware or software, I wanted to find a program that would let me enter the GPS data after I captured it on another device - cell phone, GPS, etc. Easier said than done. Programs I found were either too expensive - $50 to $100 - or not what I wanted. I received lots of suggestions - close, but no cigar. People kept telling me I could drag a photo onto a map - but first I had to know where the photo was taken.<br>

Then someone on the photo.net/nikon forum recommended two apps: GPS4cam and Geotag Photo (Lite and Pro). They range from free to $4.00 They both do basically the same thing. You activate the app, and your cell phone records coordinates every 30 seconds, or whatever interval you select. While the app is running, you take photos here and there. I bought both of them. Free is cheaper (obviously), but free apps use lots more battery power by running ads. I got that from BBC News.<br>

When you get home, you upload the images to your computer and load the GPS data file onto your computer. With GPS4cam, you take a photo (with your camera) of the barcode that appears on your phone.<br>

After the app does its thing, each photo has GPS coordinates in the Exif data. Using Lightroom 4, you can see where the photos were taken and even see the route you followed. I think Google Maps will show locations, too.<br>

Of course, each coordinate will not line up exactly with each photo, but it still lets you know if you took a photo in one town or another. Actually, you can get the exact coordinates if you tell the app, either by shaking the phone or pressing a button, to record the coordinates there and then.<br>

The apps are available for both Apple and Android devices. I just started using Geotag yesterday, so I have more learning to do.</p>

<p>Shun --<br>

As for the Nikon GP1, I don't like that large unit sitting on the camera, or somewhere else, attached by a wire. It seems too bulky. Also, I read reviews about the unit that were not very good.</p>

<p>James Youngman --<br>

So I would need the Unleashed and then a bluetooth GPS - like a Holux product, correct?</p>

<p>Thanks for all your help. This isn't do-or-die, but I'd like to be able to associate photos with their locations. I'm going to be taking shots of our town, and it would be nice to be able to pinpoint where the photos were taken.</p>

<p>Photolinker is for Mac, and I use Windows. LR4 can work with photos that already have the GPS data imbedded, but there is no way to add the GPS data using LR4. If I know exactly where a photo was taken, I can drag it to a map and get the coordinates. If I don't know where it was taken, I can't drag it to a map.</p>

<p>Thanks. I'll take a look at Orlux. I know I can use my iPad touch to take a duplicate photo and get the coordinates, but how can I get that data into the photo, without spending a lot of money?</p>

<p>Aside from putting Nikon's device on my hotshoe, how can I get GPS data - location - into the metadata for the photos I take? I am willing to use a separate device to mark my location when I take a shot, but how can I associate that data with the photo?<br>

I know I can drag the photos onto a map to get the coordinates, but first I have to know those coordinates. So, how can I take the GPS data and add it to a photo?</p>

<p>I haven't done much video with my D90 or D7000, but I guess both of these cameras can do decent video.</p>

<p><a href="http://provideocoalition.com/index.php/freshdv/story/beautiful_music_video_shot_with_the_nikon_d90/">http://provideocoalition.com/index.php/freshdv/story/beautiful_music_video_shot_with_the_nikon_d90/</a></p>

<p>I have a few old lenses from film cameras, and they have no cash value, at least according to ebay. One is a Pentax SMC 70-210mm Zoom. Another is an even older long, Soligor T-Mount zoom, from the 1970's.</p>

<p>Aside from room decorations or paperweights, does anyone know of a way to make use of these?</p>

<p>Wow! Lots of info in a small space. It's like you summarized the high points of a book on close-up photography. I'll save this for future reference.</p>

<p>Thanks for you input. I have one or more "focusable" lenses.</p>

<p>Would I be better off with a bellows, rather than extension tubes?</p>

<p>I have no specific purpose in mind. I just want to give it a shot.</p>

<p>The ring I am looking at costs $3.00, with free shipping, which is a bit less than extension tubes. I'm not doing this to earn a living, just to see how it works. I wondered about the plastic threads holding the lens in place, but people have been doing it for years. I'll just have to be careful. I have a Sigma 28-70mm lens that I'll use with it.</p>

<p>Does shorter focal length give more magnification? I didn't realize a zoom would be better for this, but that's why I turned to you guys.</p>

<p>Before I bought a reversing ring, I wanted to decide what lens to use so I would know what size ring to get. If necessary, I would have bought a used one on ebay.</p>

I want to put a reversing ring on my D7000. In deciding what lens to use, what is more important, the maximum lens opening or the focal

length?

<p>Thanks for your ideas. I have a D70s that would be a perfect candidate for conversion, rather than buying another camera. LifePixel sets the focus for the 18-70mm lens, so that should work out OK - I hope.</p>

<p>Thanks to all the info I've gotten from people on the forum, I'm getting closer to having my D70 converted to IR. Initially, I thought it would be a matter of converting or not converting. Now I see that each company has several filter choices, generally with higher prices for anything other than basic B&W IR.</p>

<p>After looking at the info on the LifePixel site, including a video, it seems that there is so much you can/must do in Photoshop that I'm wondering if it is worth getting anything but the standard B&W IR filter. The demo video shows a tremendous amout of manipulation being done with PS, so the choice of filter hardly seems to matter.</p>

<p>If any of you have had a good conversion done, I'd like to hear where they were done. There is a large difference in price, and each company I have read about says that it does good work. What else would you expect them to say?</p>

Keith, what kind of filter do you have?

I bought the new DX from B&H for $450, while the used lens sold on eBay for $594! Sometimes people get carried away

bidding.

Ian M, thanks for the tip about B&H. I was looking at a used lens on eBay that is heading toward $450. I didn't realize that the DX was

available new. I was considering the DX II for $600. The DX will be fine, and I'll save $150.

 

Jerry

<p>The other place does the focus adjustment, too, with the same lens. I'll take a look at MaxMax.</p>

<p>In the old days, I could buy a roll of Kodak Infrared Aero film, screw on a filter, and take infrared photos. Now I have to decide on a filter and get a conversion done to my digital camera. Too many choices.<br>

Some people on this site used LifePixel, which charges $450, but is now running a sale for $250. I also found Pro Photo Repair in CA, for $200. There is a substantial difference between $200 and $450 to do this conversion. Even at the sale price, LifePixel is $50 higher. From what I understand, the conversion is a matter of removing one filter and installing another. I could even buy a kit and do it myself - out of the question.<br>

I'd like to hear from anyone who has had a good or bad experience with conversions from different companies. This is not something I want to keep re-doing.<br>

If anyone has any recommendations or advice, I'd be glad to hear it. I could use some help deciding what filter to have them install, since there is a choice of several. I am doing this D70 conversion just for the fun of it, not for any specific need.</p>

 

<p>So all photos from an IR conversion must be processed to achieve that IR look? Can any processing program do that? I'm considering having my D70 converted, so I would appreciate any advice you could offer.</p>

<p>MacMax.com is an auto insurance site. Can you offer another site?</p>

<p>I'd like to get your advice concerning a lens purchase. Although I would love to buy the Nikon 12-24mm, the price is rather high. The Tokina 12-24 has gotten good reviews, especially compared with other non-Nikon lenses. So, my immediate dilemma is this: should I get a used Tokina 12-24 DX for maybe $350 on ebay, or should I get a new DX II for $600? The main difference between the two is the built-in focusing motor, although there could be other differences. I will be using this for a Nikon D7000 and a D70s, which would focus the DX lens with no problem.<br>

I know, you want to know what I will be shooting with this lens. The answer is - pictures. I am not a pro, and I will not be publishing any photos. I'd just like to be able to take nice wide angle shots of - whatever. I've always preferred WA to tele.<br>

OK. I'm open to your ideas.<br>

Jerry</p>

 

<p>I just received an email with the instructions for the interval timer. The seller said they had 'Major issues" with the instructions, so it took quite a while to get them produced. The diagrams are identical to what you posted here. I have since gotten another timer - different brand - and the diagrams are also the same. Apparently, the same company in China makes several brands and models, all with the same comically indecipherable directions. You would think that a country with over a billion people would be able to find someone who can write an intelligible sentence in English. I eventually wrote my own directions, which I can understand perfectly!</p>

<p>Is there a way to tell roughly when a Nikon DSLR was made using the serial number?</p>