r_scott_steube

I am considering shooting the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games. As an

American, spending 4-6 weeks in Canada with the sole intent of freelance

photography, am I going to need a Canadian Work Visa or other bureaucratic

concerns? Any first person insight or links to online info would be so

helpful. Many Thanks!

My experience is that digital 24x28 inch prints, via scanning film using Nikon 9000, are routine. BUT the nature, detail, tonality and contrast of the subject itself is critical. The human eye (and mind) can be fooled, yet it also notices, quite automatically, when faults or artifacts popup in flesh tones or extremely fine detail such as fur or feathers. Conversely, cityscapes are more immune to fault recognition. Clever post processing, careful printing and/or professional drum scanning can yield gallery quality prints beyond 46x54 inches, if the subject is conducive. Good Luck!

My M7II is going on 3 years old, at least 500 rolls of film, but still looks and behaves almost new! I do treat it with perhaps above average care. Avoiding the obvious perils such as dropping, grit or moisture. I usually case it with a LowePro Stealth Reporter AW. The hardest thing on any camera (beside drowning it in saltwater) is banging it against other cameras slung around your neck. Think of Dennis Hooper, the photojournalist in Apocalypse Now! I Love My M7II!

 

I highly respect Ken's adivce (I read him weekly), but would argue against his assertion that EOS-1 aren't 'Pro' quality. I've been using EOS-1 to EOS-1Nrs for 10+ years now, and you could slap a rhinoceros silly with a Canon 1 series. Just as tough as my Nikon F3P or F4s, IMHO.

The 110mm leads with slightly lighter weight, faster aperture and when set at f/3.5 the image edges are in fact sharper than the 90mm which is wide open at f/3.5. But more important is your primary subject/composition style. When I can not justify hauling ALL my RZ67 lenses along, I often grab 75mm and 110mm, skipping over the 90mm. I usually shoot RZ67 a top a tripod, but if handholding the 110mm is slightly easier because the center of gravity closer to the middle of the body. These issues are mostly splitting hairs. The appropriate focal length for suject, price and/or if used, the condition would be main criteria. Both are Great Lenses and Good Luck!

I shoot RZ67, C330, plus 7II rangefinder and for travel the 7II wins hands-down. Obviously a rangefinder has its own strengths and weaknesses, but except for film loading the 7II really shines. But the 7II still loads faster than my Leica M6, another fantastic travel companion for those 35mm shooters. Anyways 7II lenses are f/4 or f/4.5, which is slightly slower than matching C330 glass. Coatings on the 7II lenses is more effective. 7II lenses sharpness/contrast are legendary. But 7II is a big chunk of change, even a quality used kit. Perhaps still price competative with Hassey systems? Anyways, Ken Rockwell article on the 7II and the earlier 6 version are worth checking out here: http://www.kenrockwell.com/mamiya/7.htm Photo.nets Gearing Up describes the 7II also. Good Luck!

I love Mamiya RZ67 system and shoot with 37mm fisheye to 500mm APO lenses. That said, the first issue sort out about a tripod/head support is whether you really prefer/need an adjustable center column. In my routine for landscape photography (as opposed to macrowork) I much prefer NO column. With no column, my nukeproof if expensive system is as follows. 1) Larger Series 4 or 5 Gitzo CF tripod with the removable center plate design, 2) Gitzo G-1321 Level Base, 3) Wimberley Gimbal Head, 4) Bogen / Manfrotto 337 2 Axis Flash Hot Shoe Double Bubble Level. Because of the RZ67 rotating-back there is no need for a flipable head, so Gimbal Head works fantastic. Plus with this system and Arca-Swiss clamps it is easy to balance the center of gravity so even a 20lb body/lens combo can be managed effortlessly. Very expensive, but an outstanding solution. Good Luck!

I have used LowePros Super Trekker for 2 years and Pro Trekker 6 years. Typically the loaded Super or Pro, might weight 45 lbs or 30 lbs, respectively. Both very comfortable for longs days use/carry and both exceptional at durability/protection of gear inside. Mind you, the Super weights 12 lbs empty!!! So that gives you some idea about the nukeproof construction and padding. Strapping on a tripod, some trail munchies and inserting a 100oz hydration bladder and the total mass can pass 60lbs. Grunt! A counterpoint, for airline travel the Lowepro empty weight can subtract from you useful carry on capacity. A travel backpack promoted by Moose Peterson at: http://www.moose395.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=WRPMP1&Category_Code=WRPSpec has a good reputation, but I can not speak from personal experience. Good Luck!

Excellent customer service is often, if not always, a good indicator of a brand/s viability and its financial stability. Let us hope that Mamiya/s service department and their own production (finally) of digital sensors, will bode well for their future. It sure would feel good know, if in fact, that I invested so much of my gear with the Mamiya brand and that those years of rumors of Mamiya eminent demise were unfounded. As always, time will tell, but I feel some sunshine!

Scrol down and read the polarizer paragraph here (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/m7_hands-on.shtml) at luminous landscapes Mamiya 7II article. Good Luck!

You did not mention whether you are also wearing a day/backpack while hiking. Regardless, I have been very happy with Lowepro Toploader 65 AW http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/279326-REG/Lowepro_1986510_Toploader_65_AW_Camera.html for my Mamiya 7II; plus 2 or 3 lenses, film and misc. stuff. The Toploader 65 AW can be worn, in front and handy, with either an optional chest harness or on an accessory belt. This is the best approach I have found while humping a 70lbs. backpack. The All Weather feature is worthwhile; it even protects from torrents of sweat that can flow in hot weather. The balance, convince and protection of this system worth considering. Good Luck!

Just a couple of summers ago I attended a fantastic seminar that featured Bruce Dale (http://www.brucedale.com/) and Steve McCurry (http://www.stevemccurry.com/) both of whom are Masters Masters! And their images were projected on perhaps a 20x16 ft. screen for the 120 odd attendees. That said, Bruce displayed images using digital projection and Steve 35mm slides. The Bruce digital show was organized, succinct, always in-focus, but viewing his wonderful images were as if looking through a porch screen! The Steve slide show was often off-focus, sometimes fickle, but OMG the image quality was SO superior!

 

Then again, if you have never watched a 6x4.5 or 6x7 slide show, then in truth you have never enjoyed a REAL slide show! HD digital displays better than 6x7 slide, NOT! Just MHO.

Wow, talk about a near impossible challenge. You do not mention any details about the shooting conditions: pool, open water, sea etc. etc., but due to the RZs bellows focus, controls layout, and your digital back cables, a self-contained, submergible housing would be extremely complicated and custom made (expensive). If a pool type setting is possible, then scout a location that has underwater viewing windows, of sufficient clarity, to permit RZ shooting with dry feet.

 

That said, if the camera system could be supported or floated ABOVE the water, an inverted periscope system might be viable. A sketch is worth a thousand words, but imagine a camera dry above the water, pointed downward into an optical periscope major axis that penetrates the water, then an adjustable mirror that controls the exit angle. The wider the lens(s) the bulkier the periscope rig.

 

Finally, do not forget the lighting requirements. Underwater lighting is not impossible, but better to consider shooting needs sooner rather than later. Good Luck and If You can Pull this Off, Please Post an Image!

Jon, the first thing to ask yourself is whether you have the personality/perseverance to promote your services and images. If so, expect to spend most of your total energies on the business side of this vocation. Conversely, if due to your nature, or the desire for retirement to be more about creativity, than stressing about making sales, then you need to lineup someone to charge of that end of things. If you have a business relationship with gallery(s), stock agency, publishers, artist representative or the like, you might find their commissions a bargain.

 

Next consider a professional organization or special interest group that is in-tune with your photographic pursuits, and then take full advantage of all their offerings. Forums, contests, seminars, annual symposiums, etc. etc. A quick look at your photos posted here at PN suggests an interest in travel or cultural images. Off the top I can?t think of travel ORG/SIG, but they must be out there. A parallel example would be, for nature or landscape photographers, the North American Nature Photography (NANPA). See: http://www.nanpa.org/

 

Finally consider attending Pro/Career Workshops or Training Camps. Not only about learning or refining photographic skills, but making new friends and learning from other kindred spirits. Rocky Mountain School of Photography (RMSP) is just one example: http://www.rmsp.com/Career/ProfessionalStudies.aspx?prog=2

 

Good Luck and Never Give Up!

I love to shoot Ilford PAN F Plus (6x6 to 6x9), then typically scan using Nikon

CS 9000ED for printing 24x28+ inch (or larger) wall art. Perhaps one in a

thousand image capture warrants ICG drum scan by a photo service.

 

What I like to find is a very thorough online article that tests/contrasts MF

Negative Scans vs 35mm D-SLR vs MF Digital Backs for Black and White Wall Art.

I not have much luck finding this online; could someone point me in the right

direction? Many Thanks!

The magnifier hood is designed for the Pro, not the Pro II, but as you say the light meter is broken, it does not matter. To be safe you might want to insulate the electrical contacts on the hood. That said, I love my fully operational MagHood for macro images!

Rough calc suggests that a 6x7 digital back would be perhaps 9528x8120 pixels or 77MP. Todays existing digital back champs are about 33MP. Eventually, almost certainly, the cost of production of a 77MP will be reasonable, BUT only if there is sufficient demand to drive the development. Every photography dreams of more resolution, BUT realisticallly, today, most folks computers would choke on 150-300MB digital files that a 77MP back would likely generate and would turn into 500MP PS files after layering, etc. First I would need to afford a Quad-Core Intel, with 16GB memory and 4TB of hard drive space, before I would drool over a 77MP back. Just my two-cents worth...

For photo opts, Navy Pier is a no-brainer. Lots happening and fun place to watch people (some are pretty weird). Plus, If you espcially like nightlife and can shoot with f/2 lens or faster, at high ISO 1600-3200, then consider checking out Chicagos famous Blues Clubs venues. Flashes are a No-No. See: http://chicago.about.com/cs/blue1/a/blues_index.htm . Rons warning about the heat/humidity is fair. Also, when the city swelters, crime does go up. There are more than a few bad neighborhoods/steets where a tourist could get in real trouble. This is no joke, so be aware of your surroundings and if at all possible explore the sketchier places with 2-3 friends. Good Luck!

I am not 100% clear about what you are looking for, but perhaps BetterPhoto.com -- http://www.betterphoto.com/online-photo-course-categories-b.asp?ai=10 could be of help..?

Research Fujis late model rangefinders (645s to 69s are out there) or you might even consider a retro-folder. Many vintage models - Zeiss, Kodak, Mamiya etc. Go to: http://www.rangefindermag.com/index2.tml for a good start. Personally, I love my Mamiya 7II w/43mm lens (very pricy) which I use 90% of the time, but I also use 60 year old Zeiss Ikon Folder that still takes increadable 645 to 69 images with its fixed f/3.5, 105mm Tessar lens. That Ikon cost me $135. I am all smiles!

You might want to review Ken Rockwells suggestions at: http://www.kenrockwell.com/mamiya/6.htm . As Ken describes, the meters center weighting effect depends on focal length of attached lens (wide vs tele). Underexposure is often due to a bright sky in frame, thus foreground and closer subjects suffer. It also matters whether your intended end use are projected slides or wall art. If wall art, do you scan film and post-process. My own experience is mostly with 7II which has a different (pseudo-spot) built-in metering system. But both cameras allow +/- 2 stops exposure adjustment. Experiment using this feature instead of changing the ISO setting. For slower paced shooting, static subjects or tripod etc., using a good handheld light meter is a pricy but best solution. Many good brands/models, here is Sekonics site: http://www.sekonic.com/main/ .

I have tried and was impressed with Epsons V750; see Ken Rockwells comments at: http://www.kenrockwell.com/epson/v750.htm . However, if you value your time (and ulitmate quality) then consider spending the extra bucks on a MF film scanner, i.e. Nikon CS 9000ED. It is a judgement call as to the break even point, but I would say a film scanner is a no-brainer if you need to scan more than 200ish slides/negs per year. For attractive skin tonality and broad latitude, Portra film scanned on a Nikon 9000 is a great combination. Good Luck!

You might try reviewing PNs Film Article at: http://www.photo.net/equipment/film . While not totally up to date it is still informative. Second, what is your final or primary end use? Are you scanning/printing in-house to prepare wall art or submitting slides for commercial printing, etc? If the former, then perhaps you might consider switching to color negative film such as Kodaks Portra. See: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/portra/portraIndex.jhtml

Ken Rockwell has a review/article on the 7II at: http://www.kenrockwell.com/mamiya/7.htm . Just scroll down the page until near the end and Ken gives you a straightforward description about using a flash with this fantastic camera.

Try contacting Alaska Science Center - USGS Biological Office at: http://www.absc.usgs.gov/research/brownbears/brownbears.htm . As I vagely recall, they have done international brown bear research with Russia. Someone there ought to be able to give you a direct lead on your bear safety/defense concerns. Good Luck!

Pico is quite right. MFA?s program range from Art vs. Craft vs. Science and Creativity vs. Teaching vs. Business; or any combination thereof. Do not totally discount private or specialty MFA programs such as Savanna College of Art and Design. Even if the cost or logistics make attending some schools unlikely, learning what they are about and what they offer will help you make a better choice of your final school. Also, most MFA programs have some sort of mentor program for their students; contacting both mentors and mentees will probably give you some propaganda free info.

 

Finally, carefully consider the range of electives or degree emphasis choices that a school can offer. For example, if foreign exchange or co-op/internships options are there, it helps if the campus offer cultural/language courses. Good Luck!