doug_stemke1

I only have the 135mm. I have to say using all three of the extension tubes to get to 1:1 is a real task. The extension tubes and the lens together make for a VERY long lens. I have used the Bogan long lens support to stabolize the whole thing, but this is pretty awkard in the field. Then there is the light loss too. I agree, I like the focal length of 135 over 100 for macro work, but if I had my druthers I'll prefer the 100 because of its 1:1

Unless it is overcast shooting in whole tress woods during the day *usually* results in photos with way too much contrast. Get up early for generally much better light conditions.

I'd recommend some way to be able to shoot wider for landscapes. Maybe a couple of small primes in your bag? (24mm/28mm/35mm)?

My wife and I were mugged in Rome (near the Roman forum). I ended up wrestling with a gypsie women until her kids dropped my wife's wallet. We also were hit in a Paris subway-my wife actually got our wallet back by separating the pick-pockets fingers from my wallet as it was unzipped out of a front pocket. I know that makes me look clueless, but they were running a scam keeping me occupied with something one of them had dropped in the subway. We ran into several tourists who had been robbed in Italy (Rome and Venice) and not just Americans. Do not underestimate their talents.

 

We were not especially well dressed, in fact we were keeping a low profile. It really didn't matter.

 

You will see a lot of people wearing backpack on their front. Not a bad idea.

 

Never keep a bunch of cash or important documents (passports) in a wallet, easily accessed fanny pack, or back zipper on a backpack. Keep what you need easily accessable and the rest in a money belt or necklace.

 

Photocopy your Passport and keep a copy of it in your luggage.

 

In Rome there are a few bus routes that are infamous for housing professional thieves.

 

Often a large group of kids are used by a lot of pro thieves. You also have little action as they scatter after they rob you.

 

All that said my four lenses and two cameras made it back, all in a backpack.

I was digging through a bin at a camera show and came across a most

unusual filter. If you turned it one way it was red (the whole image

was red); if you turned in around the other way it was blue.

Therefore in an odd sort of a way it was like a polarizer, just that

the choices were blue or red rather than polarized or not. I didn't

buy it because it was very expensive but it peaked my curosity.

 

1) What kind of optical glass would they make that would do something

like that?

 

2) What use would one have with this combination? Like I said, it

was very expensive; I assume owning one red and one blue filter, even

coated, would be cheaper.

 

It was an 'oldish' kind of filter, I don't see it in any new

catalogs. Other than the "golly-gee-whizz" factor I can't imagine

there was much use for a filter like this.

 

Just wondering. Thanks.

Hi.

 

If you are REALLY looking for bargins then look no further than screw mount lenses. You can get a $15 (US) adaptor and then pick up dirt cheap screw mount lenses. The SMC Super Takumar are certainly the cream of the crop and I've seen them as cheap as $10, especially the 50mm bunch. I used one regularly for about a year on a P30T until I got my first K mount 50mm. True, shooting stopped down (if you shoot anything other than wide open) is a bit of work, but it quickly becomes second nature. If you go this route you can also pick up often for change (less than $10) 35mm f2.8 and 135mm f2.8 lenses. I still occasionally use a Spirltone 135mm f2.8 that I got for just $3! It's a lovely lens too, absolutely first rate for portraits. I don't think most people would even use it for a door-stop today.

Hello Ran.

 

I might be able to help you with this in the near future. I have the Markins head and have been very happy with it (to date). I've used the head with both a 35mm system and a Pentax 67. So far the biggest problem I've had is that when I flip over the 67 camera it interfers with the legs; no problem because I got a Kirk Enterprise plate.

 

But back to your problem. I just picked up a 500 f4.5 lens (Takumar Pentax) which I played around with a bit on the head. I haven't been able to give it a full workout because I've sent it in for some repair work (the seller was less than honest about some 'wear' on the mount). Therefore I took a few shots with the lens on the Markins but because of the damage to the mount I had to use a shutter release to prevent the camera body from shaking on the lens. In my limited test it worked fine, but I'd hardly call it a first rate test. If the lens is reparable I'll probably get the Sidekick myself and give it a full test.

 

Note that there are two Markins heads; I don't know the names offhand, but there are two different sizes. Both hold the same amount of weight, but the larger of the two weighs twice as much (I originally got mine so I could hike so I have the smaller of the two). I suspect the larger head is the better option for a large lens.

 

Give me a few weeks and I can give you a more complete report.

I was in a shop the other day and saw this lens. I didn't have a

screw mount camera to play with but this lens really peaked my

curosity. It is SMALLER than a 40mm Pentax pancake lens. I

couldn't test it, but I assume that it is a circular fisheye. Does

anybody know anything about this lens?

 

Thanks!

 

Doug

Build quality Pentax>Both Nikons= Both Canons

 

The Rebel 2000 has the most sophiscated AF of the bunch and the most complex evaluative metering

 

The Rebel 2000 and Nikon 65 have DOV preview levers, don't know if Pentax has it, Rebel G and Nikon 55 do not (I think)

 

The Rebel G and Nikon 55 are older and offer a little less.

 

All are easy to use, the Pentax maybe the simplest of those noted (but honestly, they are all easy to use)

 

I'd try them though and see what you like.

I agree about all the filters noted above. A couple more and an observation.

 

ND filter-Useful to make exposures longer or permits you to use wider apertures. Longer exposures for blowing items in fields or to make moving water have that 'soft feel'. Wider apertures so you can isolate someting when you have bright skyies.

 

ND gradient (Cokin is the cheapest one here). Permits you to darken the sky (clouds/mountains/etc) and keep the near-ground brighter.

 

When looking for the 80A look for a very light colored one. I've seen 80As that you might call, light sky blue to ones as deep as ocean blue. Go with the lighter effect.

 

Try and look for filters with coatings, if you can afford them. And watch out for the ultra cheap filters. Brands like B&W, Tiffen, Nikon, Hoya, Pentax, (and several high priced ones) are what you should look for.

I well understand. I used to live out in Morris (W. Minnesota). My first post leaves photos are with ice when it first starts to freeze up. I look for weird bubbles or odd things frozen in the ice. It's often nicer early in fall because the ice is very clear. It's a place to start anyway. I'd also shot things like macro seed pods. Often really neat, esp. in B&W.

 

Doug

Thanks everyone 10^100th power. Some really excellent places for me to get started.

Hello.

 

I am a long time user of both 35mm and Medium Format. My father

just passed along to me the above noted camera. It came with 3

lenses (all Zeiss), lots of Polaroid film holders and no

instructions. To date, I can't even figure out how to release the

shutter! As it is a very old camera I'm often hesitant if things are

just sticking or if I'm supposed to use a certain amount of force.

 

That said I have used setup large format before in the lab; I'm

just very unfamilar with this system. Any publications on general

medium format cameras or this one in particular would be highly

appreciated.

 

Thank you.

 

Doug