richard_zevnik
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Posts posted by richard_zevnik
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Heather: when you return to New Orleans, skip the fried chicken.
What you want, in no particular order, is: (1) a fried oyster po'boy,
dressed, at Acme Oyster House; (2) a dozen oysters on the half
shell at the same establishment; (3) a couple cold Dixie Beers
to wash same down; (4) beignets and cafe au lait at Cafe du
Monde; (5) a mufaletta from Central Grocery; (6) several
Sazerac cocktails at the Olde Absinthe Bar; (7) just about
anything on the menu at dinner at Galatoire's; (8) just about
anything on the menu at K Paul's (get reservations for the
upstairs dining room -- don't wait in line for downstairs; (9) just
about anything on the menu at the Bon Ton Cafe; (10) another
fried oyster po'boy at Acme, again, dressed; (11) more Dixies;.
What not to do: (1) patronize any eating establishment owned by
Emeril LaGasse -- waste of money and bad food; (2) go to New
Orleans during Mardi Gras -- April and May are OK, especially if
you hit Jazz Fest; (3) drink a Hurricane -- too sweet, no subtlety;
(4) forget your camera; (5) order "jambalaya" "gumbo" or "etouffe"
(unless you're at K Paul's -- this is Cajun food and they mostly
don't do it right in New Orleans) See below.
What else you should do: (1) rent a car and drive southwest to
Cajun country with your camera and a healthy appetite; (2) if it's
the right tiime of year (Spring) go to the Breaux Bridge crawfish
festival and eat, eat eat; (3) get some boudin (available all over
-- Bayou Boudin and Cracklin in Breaux Bridge is good); (4) ask
around for a good place for fried crawfish, boiled crawfish,
crawfish etouffe, gumbo, red snapper cooked just about any way;
(5) ask around for a good place for Cajun baked duck and duck
rice; (6) visit Abbeville, Lafayette, Avery Island.
Follow this advice and you'll barely notice the heat and humidity.
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Ditto Harry's comment. The camera and lens are mine and for
my use. Don't care about anyone else's opinion. I have only one
chrome lens -- a late version 4 35mm pre-ASPH Summicron --
have it because I wanted a version 4 and at the time that was all I
could find. Gandy's website says its a collector's item, and it
was more than the couple of black ones I missed out on.
Doesn't matter to me -- all my cameras and lenses are users.
Before I got the Summicron, I had a VC 35mm Classic in chrome
-- it looked fine on a black M6ttl
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I have the Hexanon 28mm f2.8 and use it without problems on
my M6ttl. Excellent build quality and results. I'd like a Leica
28mm f2.0, but not at the price. Got my Hexanon used with caps,
case and hood for about $550.00. It's a good alternative if you
can live with f2.8 maximum aperture. Its speed was good
enough for me for interiors with ASA 400 color print film, and
isn't a problem for B&W since its easily pushed.
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Thanks all. Actual user experience is far more valuable than
technical data such as available on the mir.com site. And for
those who asked, analog watch (mechanical movement);
fountain pen user; violin and viola player; manual transmission.
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I am building a small Nikon manual focus SLR kit. I presently
have an FM2n, but am interested in adding a metered F2. From
what I have been able to learn, I am leaning toward either an F2A
or F2AS. I would be interested in hearing actual users'
preferences between the two. One thing I read was that the
F2AS' low light metering sensitivity is better. True or false, or
inconsequential?
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Re: which 50mm lens. A clean Summitar and LTM-M adaptor.
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Image quality wise the CV is an excellent lens. I sold my CV
classic and got a 4th generation Summicron only because I
needed the f2.0 max aperture. Given the potential uncertainties
of this deal, I'd hang fire and see if someone here has one for
sale.
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What the hell. Why don't you really kick over the traces and get a
Leica M6 or M6ttl. Pain in the ass for anything longer than 90, but
loads of fun for anything shorter, and if you stick with Leitz glass,
you will see a difference in the outcome. Be prepared to suffer
financially however. LOL
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My experience is limited to the last pre-asph Summicron, and the
VC 35mm f2.5 Classic. The focal length is my favorite for
rangefinder work. The results of these two lenses are very
close, so if you don't need the extra 2/3d stop, the VC can be a
money saver (you will need a LTM to M mount adaptor). The
original VC "pancake" 35 and the Classic shared the same
optical formula -- I'm not certain if the new VC "pancake" version
in M mount is the same optical formula. Comment above about
the wonderful rendition of out of focus elements of pix is my
experience.
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Yes, but most people don't, and that applies equally to
participation in choral music, or playing an instrument ( or maybe
several), or writing, of so many other things. My impression is
that, at least in the US, we largely have become a society of
passive consumers, and have forgotten, if ever we learned,
what's it's like to be passionately involved in such activities. How
many people will be planted on their rear ends watching the
World Series (if it lasts that long) or the NFL this coming Sunday
afternoon? Three weeks ago, there were a couple hundred
empty seats for the performance by a community chorale I sing
in of Rutter's Requiem and Dvorak's Mass in D. Last December,
about 50 people attended my church choir's Advent performance
of JS Bach's Cantata 141, leaving some 175 seats empty.
And those in attendance were mostly those who have only
learned the joy of listening without learning the joy of singing.
Don't be discouraged. With time, we have a way of finding
kindred souls, and with luck, can show the way to someone else
who might not have had the inclination to take up photography, or
music, or [fill in the blank] .
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I had the original screw mount VC 35mm f 2.5 Classic. I found
the build quality good, and it was very compact and fast
focussing. But, as stated by another above, I did, and do a lot of
low light photography, and I needed the extra two-thirds stop of a
Summicron. I sold the VC and got a last pre-asph generation
Summicron. The results of the two lenses at equivalent
apertures are virtually indistinguishable, so, if you can live with f
2.5 as a maximum aperture, youll not likely be disappointed in
the VC.
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Try the Cameraquest website. When I had an R2, and a Leica
M6ttl simultaneously, I did not notice any difference in metering
between the two. From that I inferred that the R2 was a similar
center weighted pattern.
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I had the VC 35mm classic, and sold it to get a used fourth gen
35mm Summicron. I did so because I needed the extra
two-thirds stop. Other than that, I was very happy with the VC, and
got excellent results with it. The primary difference between the
results obtained with the two is better contrast with the
Summicron at wider than f 5.6.
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I'd see if I could find a new old stock M6ttl, a new old stock or
mint 35mm Summicron pre-ASPH, and a mint used 50mm
Summilux. I have a Summitar with adaptor, a '69-'79 generation
50mm Summicron, and a 50mm Summilux. I like the footprint of
all at various times. The color rendition with the Summitar is
really, really nice, even if it's not as sharp as the others. I love the
"pop" of the Summilux wide open with the wonderful out of focus
areas in front of and behind the point of focus.
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Nikon Kit; FM2a, 28mm 2.0 Ai; 50mm 1.4 Ais; 105mm 2.5 Ai.
Canon Kit: F-1n second style; 24mm 2.0; 50mm 1.8; 85mm 1.8;
135mm 2.0
Leica Kit: M6ttl chrome .72 VF; M6ttl black .72 VF; Hexanon
28mm 2.8; 35mm, 50mm and 90mm Summicrons; 50mm
Summilux
Film; batteries, l
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If you choose an FM2n, there was a switch from the titanium
shutter to the aluminum shutter at about serial number
75XXXXXX. The titanium shutter had a "honeycomb" appearance
to the shutter blades. The aluminum shutter blades are smooth
in appearance. Since the FM2n was made for a long time, you
might as well get one manufactured more recently than an older
one, all other things being equal.
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Another factor to consider is time of year. A lot of used camera
gear, particularly 35mm manual focus gear, is bought by
highschool and junior college students who have enrolled in a
photography class. Thus, there is greater demand at the start of
an academic semester when such classes begin, and lesser
demand at the end of semesters. Further, prices for manual
focus film camera equipment seems a little soft now -- rush to
digital?
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The screw-in hood available at Cameraquest is well made steel,
and you can get a Voightlander metal lens cap that fits in
perfectly, making leaving the hood on all the time possible. One
stays on my 35mm 'Cron all the time.
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Why manual?
in Nikon
What they said. In my youth, during high school, I photographed
for the yearbook. I covered all aspects of life at a New England
boarding school. I carried my camera everywhere and routinely
shot 6-10 rolls of film a week. My best from that period remain
my best by far -- a single camera - match needle metered
manual, a single prime lens - manual focus 85mm, Tri X at
normal and pushed. Some of the sports shots I got covering
hockey games and indoor track meets still amaze me.
A manual camera even without motor drive allows you to follow
and capture images easily -- you just need to know how to
anticipate and prepare. A maunal camera allows you to choose
your point of focus, and what aperture to use to create the depth
of field that make the shot. A manual camera allows you to
compensate for and expose for what YOU want, not what some
inanimate circuit has been progammed for.
I just donated my two Canon A-1s to a local junior college.
What's in my kit? Two Leica M6TTLs, a Canon F-1n, a Nikon
FM2n.
I also: (1) use fountain pens exclusively; (2) use a 32-year old
Sabatier chef's knife I was given when I was 19; (3) ride two
Italian road bikes with downtube, nonindexed shifters (no carbon
fiber components, just Campagnolo); (4) play the viola; and (5)
sing tenor in a church choir. Manual photography is part of life.
I'll avoid stating the next thought, because the foregoing is
probably enough to start a prairie fire . . .
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On a trip to Quebec City, New Hampshire, and Boston and north shore, I used 28mm 70%; 50mm 25%; and 90mm 5%. By the way, the 24mm f2.0 is a killer lens, if a bit pricey.
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Admittedly, the last time I was there was before 9/11, but to see the Capitol including inside, the Supreme Court building, and the Jefferson and Lincoln Memorials really made an impression. Take at least a 28mm on the wide side. The place was really a lot nicer than it was on my previous visit, in May 1970, right after Nixon invaded Cambodia and the Kent State shootings.
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If you look closely, there's a small red mark on most LTM-M adaptors.
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I really wonder. I see high condition rated used M6TTLs at KEH listed for as much as $1500. I only paid a net of $1575 new at Tamarkin's Leica Day, with Passport and then existing $200 rebate program in late 2002. If anything, it would appear to me that the interest generated in Leicas by the introduction of the MP is driving up used prices of more recent used models once interested persons learn how much an MP is going to set them back, and they decide to settle for a used camera.
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I really don't notice any qualitative differences in use regardless of whether I'm using my chrome 35 summicron, or aluminum 50 summicron or 28 Hexanon. The only one that's different in handling is the 90mm summicron -- don't think I'd want a chrome version of that lens - that would be heavy.
Can a 50/1.5 Nokton be used with a IIIf viewfinder?
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
Misinformation. The Nokton is a LTM rangefinder coupled lens.
It will focuss on a IIIf. What I don't know is whether the lens hood
of the Nokton does or does not protrude into the field of view of
the separate viewfinder of a IIIf. (Recall: IIIf has separate
windows for the rangefinder and the viewfinder.) The Nokton is a
fairly large lens compared with the original Leitz lenses
designed to be used with the LTM cameras.