craig_dumesny

Rob F.

 

The skew is consistent, left up. It's not much but you can see it even when viewing slides on the lightbox without a loupe. The skew is also evident when I hold the camera vertically and always the same way.

 

I'll have a really close look at how the frame lines line up with all your valuable tips and will let you all know the outcome. In all seriousness I hope that it's me causing this error and not my Leica.

Hi guys. I have been using my M6TTL now for quite some time and love

her to bits, however, I have a rather strange question regarding the

framlines that I was unable to find an answer to after doing several

searches.

 

I have been consistently getting crooked horizons even after astute

framing and being consciously aware that previous rolls of film have

also shown crooked horizons? I shoot tranny, have used both 35mm and

50mm lenses and have even lined up the top frameline perfectly with a

horizontal line just to prove I'm not crazy. By the way, I have been

shooting professionally for some years with both 35mm and 120 formats

so I'm pretty confident it's not my technique that's lacking, and

besides, when I borrow the wife's P&S my horizons are all perfectly

level even with that.

 

Next step will be to use a spirit level on both a test target and the

M6 but in the meantime would any of you knowledgable people have any

quick ideas. Is it possible to have mis-aligned framelines within

the viewfinder?

 

Thanking you all in advance.

Craig Dumesny. Adelaide Australia. Pro.

Yep, got a lens the same day. Had a S/H one put away at a local dealer and soooooo, it is a 35mm f/2 Summicron pre-ASPH, Canadian made S/N 2662402. First two rolls already the M6; one by Reala and one by NPH - then it's on to chromes and B&W.

 

Regrads to all who responded.

My shiny new Black M6TTL .72 just arrived and is in my hot little

hands...I'll never be the same again!

Hi Jackson.

 

Yep, you're probably right in regards SLR's and Velvia. I'll make sure I try a range of emulsions and see which colour rendition and fidelity suits the 'cron best for my intended market. I have recently used RDPIII and liked its more realistic palette for general applications, however, my publisher does still want Velvia with no "ifs", "buts" or "maybes".

 

Truth be known, I'm really looking forward to using the M to complement my wedding candids and for this I'll be loading B&W, naturally. We have a guy down here in Oz by the name of David Oliver, who shoots wedding/portraiture on M's and his stuff is incredible. I'll use the M alongside my EOS and MF kit when I shoot both 35mm and MF at a wedding, and if all goes well I'll leave the EOS gear at home and save a ton of weight with just MF for formals and the M for candids.

 

Cheers.

Thanks Jay! I didn't 'know' about that - the inaccuracies, that is - so thanks for the tip. I'll be firing off many test rolls so I'll see how the shutter accuracies hold up.

 

Craig.

Thanks for the quick responses! The reason for the Velvia is for travel shots. My wife and I are prolific bushwalkers and always 'document' our walks. On many occasions these shots end up in mags and brochures, hence the Velvia (which, by the way, I rate at 32 or 40 anyway). I am also signed with a stock agency and a publisher (the publisher only accepts Velvia). For general shooting on chrome I use Provia 100F; for neg stock outdoors it's Reala and for shooting concerts and the 'darker' stuff it will be Tri-X, HP5 of T400CN. Admittedly, when I'm using my Canon bodies I do not use Tri-X, but now things have changed with the M.

 

The other reason for the first roll being shot on Velvia is even more simplistic. I borrowed an M6 Classic and the chrome stock I used was Velvia and those chromes rocked! Almost 3D.

 

Regards to you all.

 

Craig.

Hello everyone. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this Leica

board who have helped me in getting into a Leica M system.

 

Yesterday, I bought a M6TTL new in box at a great "demo" price from

an interstate dealer, and a 35mm f2 pre-ASPH also for a great price

but from a local dealer. I am now looking forward to travelling with

this camera as opposed to lugging around my working kit (EOS 1VHS

and 'L' lenses!). First roll of film that will be going in the M6

this weekend is going to be Velvia and I can't wait to see the

chromes on the lightbox!

 

Thanks again to everyone and take care.

 

Craig.

Probably my EF 50mm f/1.4, but then my 20-35mm f/2.8L gets a far workout as well - both are used extensively for weddings.

Hi Minh,

 

I just finished a shoot under really horrible lighting conditions - flood lights and flourescent mixed together - with my EOS camera and 550EX with Stofen attached. The prints are really wonderful and all the lights have recorded as white - my film of choice is the new NPH@400 printed via Frontier. I must admit, too, that my lab is very good. I shot a mixture of P, M and Av and all came out pretty much the same. With M-mode I used 1/30th and naturally on P-mode it was 1/60th, all on a 20-35mm f/2.8L.

 

Hope this helps. Craig.

Bill, is that a good or a bad thing??

Summicron 35mm f/2 S/N 2662402 Chrome, Made in Canada. Is this lens

any good? Asking price is AUS$1150.

 

They also have a 50mm f/2 Chrome Summicron for AUS$750.

 

I am almost on the verge of buying either an M6TTL 0.72 or M7 0.72,

both black bodies as per my earlier posts.

 

The retailer that has the above lenses can also get ex-demo M6TTL's

for AUS$3900. So...... I was thinking of a ex-demo and one of the

above lenses...would also keep my partner happy to keep the costs

down!

 

Looking forward to your replies.

Craig

I think I'll try to disable the auto function first...and then test, test, test.

 

Thanks for the early replies.

I have been using the Canon 1V and 550EX Speedlite combination for

bounce flash indoors (living rooms and bedrooms) and have noticed an

inconsistency in a number of my exposures, mainly that some appear to

suffer under-exposure of peoples faces. I tend to set the camera to

M-mode at around 1/30th and f/5.6 with the 50mm f/1.4 lens, to

achieve a more natural ambient like look. I am also placing the red

box on their face to focus and establish exposure and then

recomposing to take the shot.

 

I believe what has been happening is that the auto flash reduction

has been kicking-in due to the ambient light present at the time. If

this is indeed what is happening (and enlightenment here would be

appreciated) should I disable this feature using CF-14 or perhaps

dial in +1.5 on the flash?

 

Regards.

Ken,

 

I guess coming from a SLR world I 'see' things differently hence the 'need' for a 50mm. I have started to price the 35/2.0's and yes they do cost a real lot. But, if in the RF world this is the most popular focal length, then I will always take the advice of those who have 'been there and are there'. The M7 will be around for quite awhile so I really don't have to jump right in at the 'mo. My initial 'rush' to get an M was purely driven by what at first glance looked like a super deal. Thanks again - I'll make a note of those 35mm numbers as well for future reference.

Guys I owe you big time! I just rang the dealer offering the M6 and E3 package and he says that the E3 is the OLD model - phew - thanx for the advice on the 49mm filter and DOF markings. I also priced a new 35/2 and this now puts this in to the get down and beg to my wife scenario.

 

That being said I'll go with a S/H 50/2 Summicron.

 

On a final note, an M7 here is only about AUS$500 more - should I get one of these instead of the M6TTL?? Last question - honest!

 

Craig

Guys, I can't thank you all enough for all the advice that's been forthcoming. I still intend to order an M6TTL this week.

 

Chip - the body alone is about AUS$3,750, with the E3 being packaged with it at AUS$1,000.

 

David E. Peter Su - I will also be using the M for weddings and portraits as per my original post. I can understand your theory for going with a light body and zoom, but frankly, I've been down this path before and the optics are not up to what I wan or need. I have used an M before (briefly) and the chromes leapt off the light box. I have the best zooms/primes made by Canon in their 'L' series range and they are very, very good, but heavy.

 

When I said lightweight, I really meant minimalist, so sorry for any misinterpretation. I presently use an Olympus OM10 and 50/1.8 and don't notice its weight on my shoulder. If I didn't have any sense at all (LOL) I'd pack my EOS 1V HS and a bunch of L-glass (probably end up looking like big Arnie!).

 

Anyway, I guess it comes down to the fact that as a pro I want to get back to the basics and bring fun and enjoyment back into my photography. I want a camera that I 'want' to take everywhere with me.

Chip, would you say that that equates to a pretty good deal? Or, would it be better to buy a new body and then second hand lenses, OR is the Tri-Elmar too good to pass up at this price??

 

Regards.

Guys,thanx so for all the responses thus far. I guess I would be better off with say a 50 f/2 to start with and then add a coouple of fast wide / short teles as my finances allow. Is the latest rendition of the 50 the one to go for if I decide to go that way.

 

Cheers.

Bill, my Canon lenses are ALL �L-series� hence they are inherently large and heavy. One of the reasons for wanting an M is that it will enable me to take it everywhere I go and be much more unobtrusive than a Canon, too.

This is my third attempt to post my questions (just found out about

yesterdays server probs) so please excuse any others from me

yesterday (if they ever turn up.

 

I intend on buying a 0.72 M6TTL like in the next week. Its purpose

will predominatley be for hiking/camping. I currently shoot MF and

Eos 1V's as part of my studio business, however, both these rigs are

way too heavy for me during extended hikes and I really want to go

the minimalist approach, not to mention returning with the very best

chromes possible from 35mm (for stock).

 

As this will be my first Leica I ask your wealth of knowledge on a

few things, mainly lens choice. As I want to keep things pretty

simple I would prefer to keep to just one lens to start with. Here

in Oz they have a deal for M6TTL and Tri-Elmar for a whopping

discount of AUS$3,000 making the deal AUS$4999 all up new). I am

tending also towards the 50mm f/2.0 Summi purely for its low light

speed advantage and its perspective for portraits, etc (as I'll

probably take it on weddings with me, too), but those nice vistas

with something wider (28-35mm) brings the E3 back into play.

 

I guess where I'm coming from is what would be a good first lens to

learn the RFing and the M. Also, is buying seocond hand lenses a

good way to go with Leica's.

 

Looking forward to your replies.

 

Craig.

Chris is absolutely correct, Jared. Place the Polaroid back on the body just as you would a film back, place the multi-exposure lever down to multiple exposure and wind on until the shutter cocks; recock the shutter for another Polaroid or flip the lever up to return to normal film shooting after you have made an exposure. A quick tip on exposures for Polaroids - expose them a little under, about 1/2 a stop, just like exposing for trannies and you'll be just fine with them.

Hi Chad. I, too, have experienced this problem with my ETRSi and AEIII prism. The locating pin on the body was just missing lining up with the prism slot and so I had 'play'. I really wouldn't worry about it too much as the play doesn't affect anything image wise or other, except to give that 'loose' feel. If you are really concerned, take the prism and body to a repairer and they'll bed the spring metal for a tight fit.

 

Craig

 

ps: I love my Bronny and hope that you grow to love yours as well.

Simon, both Ted's and Fletchers have just about everything, with Fletchers having the better range. The are both located in the city, quite central. Have a great time in great city.