sam_crater

Digitial Manipulation - excellent. Took me a few minutes.

For what it's worth, the Nikkor is the one slower 90 that has 8 elements, which allows it to have greater coverage and possibly better quality near the edges. Whether you can see the difference in 4x5 with modest movements I'm not sure.

Originally the peace sign was supposed to be with the fingers held touching each other rather than splayed in a 'V'. But in the scrambled brains of the late 60's and early 70's, a lot of things got confused.

I might have made clear the Graflex and Horseman holders match very well in terms of film plane spacing. The only problem is using the sliders to hold the RFH onto the camera. In fact, you should be able to test that you can make an image with the back as it is by ignoring the sliders and temporarily duct-taping the back to the camera.

I have also encountered a similar problem - the Graflex and Horseman RFHs are not quite the same. I think you can fix the problem by using thicker washers between the body and the graflok sliders to hold the sliders a little farther 'out'. It's a non-destructive fix you can experiment with without permanently damaging anything.

Try a 135mm Sironar N or Apo Sironar N, they're very small.

If you mean you are front-mounting (so the entire lens is in front of the aperture) no, that won't work. Forgive me if I misunderstand.

Thanks John, that worked and it appears I have the 135mm frames - anyone know if they will still do the conversion?

I got an RF645 used, is there a way of telling which (100mm or 135mm)

long lens frameline I have without attaching one to the camera? As

far as I know there's no way to manually set the frameline selection

so I can't just look through it and figure it out from the angle of view.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Sam

If you refocus between switching backs it should work, otherwise one of the images is going to be awfully blurry and the exposures won't be the same.

At close focus (approching 1:1) you reach a point of diminishing returns with the front standard where every inch that you rack out makes you an inch closer to the subject so trying to focus with the front standard you mainly end up just tightening the framing instead of focusing closer. So I think the conventional answer is: REAR. Hope that makes sense.

There's really nothing that competes with the 110XL for use on 4x5 with large movements if that's the focal length you want. Maybe the discontinued Super Symmar 120 HM which is said to be very sharp, see Kerry Thalmann's site.

Actually very few 4x5 lenses fold up inside the camera. The 135mm Sironar-N is one that does and a very good choice.

The first thing is to watch the outside diameter of the rear element which can't be more than about 63mm to go through the hole. Lenses with 60mm rear thread are OK but that leaves out the faster 90mms. See

 

http://www.horsemanusa.com/lens_list.html

Just for the record, the Osaka/Tachihara is not at all the same as the Nagoaka/Ikeda/Anba. The Tachihara is somewhat larger and heavier and probably more rigid than the Nagaoka.

Whether that's a good deal depends on how recent the model is - the older style lenses, backs and bodies sell for much less. The lenses have generally always been good quality, but unless marked 'ER' will be only single-coated. If the 65mm lens is the old 65mm f5.6 instead of the newer 65mm f7, it may not cover 6x9 with much room for movement.

Ahh! I was thinking about the math, not the engineering.

<i>What?</i>

A somewhat hard to find lens that would work is the 125mm Fujinon-W and I just saw there's one up on eBay.

Any modern f5.6 plasmat down to 120mm will cover the format (and be multicoated and sharp.)

They will both blow the doors off your Nikon. Rest assured!

<p>

Note that the 100 N will give you more than an inch of either shift or rise on 6x9 - that's a lot. See

<p>

http://www.butzi.net/rodenstock/apo-sironar-n/page2.htm

<i>The comparison is total apples to oranges and not worthwhile.</i>

<p>

Aaron asked if one of the lenses would produce sharper images on 6x9 with no movements because that is the specific use he has in mind for the lens. It's a reasonable question with a more or less objective answer I thought.

I have used the 100N and the 75 f6.8 which I think is similar to the 90. I think you're correct that the 100 will outperform the 90 for 6x9 - by a whisker at f22 and maybe by a slightly bigger margin wider open. The 100N is certainly a great lens for 6x9.

Also the Mamiya Press and Universal, and Horseman technical cameras.

Michael Hendrickson, draw yourself a diagram. When he moves the lens forward it's not to get it farther away from the ground glass - the ground glass was already in focus! - it's to get it farther away from the FILM which was CLOSER than the ground glass.