Andrew in Austin

Bill, look into Kodak's Portra RA-4 BW paper. As to setting up the filter pack for Portra, you'll need to consult someone locally who may be printing with the same paper.

Harvey, I'll admit that I've thought about replacing my trusty Rollei 35 S with a GR-1V as my pocket shooter. I use a belt pouch.

 

Most of my to go equipment is either a compact 35 or a medium format folder and therefore fit in a belt pouch. My meter of choice is a Gossen Digisix.

 

With regards to classic shooters: There is a Super Solinette, which is really a Super Regent, that has a sharp Solinar lens fitted to a Synchro Compur. The ANSCO Super Regent is to bemuse my digital technophile buddies. Pitting a 50 year old 35mm range finder folder, that set me back a whopping $28, against a modern Nikon 5400 isn't quite a fair match, because the Nikon images look pretty good to me.

By the way, I'm finally used to the LVS feature which links the aperture setting to the shutter speed.

 

For less formal shooting, but requiring enlarging, I have an Isolette III/Speedex Special R to compliment the Rollei 35 S. Tri-X in 35mm doesn't quite float my boat.

 

A Super Isolette, which is less compact, comes out when I want color portraits that are keepers. The Super Isolette supercedes a Rolleicord V fitted with a Xenar and the ever memorable LVS feature.

 

An Oly 35 RD lives at the office and is used for indoor work. NPH is good film choice. The RD resides with a vintage Gossen Luna Pro and low GN flash a filing cabinet by my desk.

 

On vacations I bring my leviathan Oly 35 SP and a Rollei 35 S. Both of which deliver stunning enlargements. The Oly 35 SP is the only camera of the above list that I don't need a light meter for and its resolution matches the diminutive Rollei.

 

I mentioned the Ricoh GR1-v, because it has an AP mode, AF, film speed override and a sophisticated integral flash firing just a few centimeters from the lens axis.

<p>Ed, try posting your question on the Classic Camera Repair Forum.</p>

 

<p><a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/</a></p>

Jim is correct, let it sit for few hours or overnight and will be as clear as the fixer at school.

Arguments aside,

 

I do find it useful to have various archival categories within a forum, so any of us who do, can read through them before posting a new question. The B&W Film and Print Archives have been an immense help to me over the past couple of years.

Jaroslav,

 

I definitely favor being able to doing some camera maintenance, especially cleaning, but I consider the Super Isolette rare enough, to let someone who has the procedure down do the CLA.

 

Your procedure for setting the focus to infinity on the Retina appears to be spot-on even though you call it trial and error.

Jaroslav,

 

Looking at the top cover, there are probably a couple of screws under the film winder knob, which is easy to remove. The film reminder may be hiding a another screw and if I had to guess, it comes off by means of a slotted nut, but that would be the first guess of more to come.

Jaroslav, I've redone my Isolette III/Ansco Speedex R with great results. I've also cleaned the viewfinder and done minor adjustments on range finders on more than a few compact 35mm cameras.

 

On the Isolette III series, one can remove the uncoupled-range finder from the camera to work on it and colimating the lens involves a straight forward adjustment of the focus ring on the front cell.

 

The Super Isolette on the other hand has an automatic frame counter like a Rollei. Plus, it has unit focusing of the lens groups rather than front cell focusing. So colimation of the focus requires a different technique. I would be guessing as I go into the service.

 

So, based on the first rule of camera repair, thou shall not do any harm, I'm willing to send it out.

The lighting is a street light in the parking lot and because I was using the camera at work that day, I was without a light meter.

 

Thanks for the recommendations. Jurgen was on my list.

Lex, the one time I brought the Rolleicord to work, I was approached by couple of students, both of which in their early 20's and owners of TLR's. The issue of the light meter came up and I had to inform that after 7 years of working the same auditorium, I've definitely memorized the light values for two auditoriums and my labs.

 

Both TLR's and folders with Synchro-Compurs are very quiet by today's standards.

<p>Photo taken with an Agfa Super Isolette, Agfa Optima film, 20

minutes after sunset, with a beer mug used for a tripod.</p>

 

<p>I have an Agfa Super Isolette that needs a CLA. One of the

particulars is it needs to have the rangefinder adjusted. It's off by

more than 10 percent.</p>

 

<p>Has anyone had their Super Isolette serviced recently or no of

repair technician comfortable with performing a CLA on one?</p><div></div>

Scroll down the page a bit. You'll see it, where each forum has a description of its purpose.

Thanks for the forum and 1970 sounds like a good date. Cameras were still pretty much mechanical before then with spring wound gear trains.

Lead bags reduce the exposure of your film to X-ray fogging. They don't fully eliminated the problem.

 

On short 2 day trips, I've been carrying film in a special lead lined bag and use Fuji clear cannisters. I alway request a hand inspection of the film bag before hand, but occasionally some airport personnel seem somewhat overwhelmed by their duties. What follows then is with my film bag in an outer compartment of my carry-on is run through the machine and then when they realize this really is a lead foil film bag, so they then hand search my carry-on and swab the film cases. This has happened twice.

 

You to have the patience of saint, while watching all of the above.

 

On longer trips, I buy film locally and have most of it developed while I'm there. Be sure to explain to the technician that you are from out of town. I also bring along the lead lined bag for any left overs.

 

What I would like to know, is what do photographers with 20 or more rolls of film do when they fly? If you fly internationally isn't your carry-on scanned at least twice in each direction?

How about a "Vintage 35mm" category located over in the same column with Leica and Minox? An archival category for "Vintage Folders" in the medium format forum would facilate browsing the MF archives.

Dan, I think what Mike is suggesting is to have a category for camera users not currently served by a specific make. Too often, if one wants to look up threads relative to a non Canon, Leica or Nikon rangefinder they have to sift through the "Uncatagorized" archive of various forums. I know I did this a few months back regarding an Isolette III.

 

As photonet is currently organized, anyone with a question regarding a Retina IIa or a Vito III would more than likely wind up in Camera Equipment and surely wind up in the "Uncatagorized" archives.

Mike, Bob et al, I suspect a separate category for "Vintage Shooters" will serve someone coming into possession of such a camera in the same way the current "Minox" category is serving its niche.

 

Although, I have three cameras of 50's vintage, I refer to them as either 1950's folders or in the case of the Rolleicord, I refer to it as the Rolleicord.

 

Yep, there will be the questions about the film reminder dial & what's this EV chart suppose to do, but hopefully there will be some good to come out it. Maybe some of this archane know how will be passed on to another generation of photohobbyists.

 

Age isn't just relative to the camera, but the user as well. After getting permission to photograph him, I had a Mardis Gras float builder in his late twenties take one look at my Rollei 35S and exclaim, "My God, that camera is an antique!" Maybe I should brought the Super Isolette or my Super Solinette on that trip.

<p>Dave Richert, a photographer and vintage camera enthusiast in Hawaii has an exhaustive web site pertaining to these folders. <a href="http://www.DavidRichert.com/using_vintage_folders.htm">Here</a> is a link to his instructions for using a vintage Ikonta.</p> He also has a printable manual for the Isolette I <a href="http://www.DavidRichert.com/AGFA%20Manuals/agfa_isolette_i.htm">here</a>.

 

<p>The URL for his entire is http://www.DavidRichert.com</p>

Kevin, the bug really bit if you went for three.

 

The operation of the Isolette III is identical to the Isolette II, except for the addition of the much needed uncoupled rangefinder.

 

The Speedex, versus the Speedex Special, is identical to an Isolette I. On the Isolette I and Speedex the film winder is on the left. They both should retain the T lever for time exposures on the back of the cameras. Keep the T lever point to the left as you look at it or the shutter release will lock.

 

There isn't much to the cameras except to double check the focus and aperture setting, which slips. Advance the film, using the ruby window. Then cock the shutter. A hand-light meter is a big help, unless you're going to learn the "sunny 16 rule".

 

The filters for the Apotar and Agnar lenses are 30mm push-on. They also fit the Agfa Clack and Solinette.

 

Do check the bellows for leaks using a flash unit held behind the camera, while standing in a darkened closet.

I guess I've been lucky, in the past 31 years, the only camera that went totally D.O.A on me was the one I dropped, which was my fault not the camera's. The rest all needed some occasional adjustment or minor fix, but they never went totally south.

 

My 35-SP, which is a bit overbuilt for this class, was the back-up camera for a professional photographer. Its optics are truly superb and the light meter is spot-on, no pun intended.

 

The 35-RC is truly an underutilized specimen, so a lucky find, I guess. It came in its original plastic display box and still has its helicoid grease intact. It replaces an XA that soldiered on for 19 years and is therefore quite rickety at this point. The XA has been to 4 continents and never been babied. The XA is so far down the road that it's only fit for occasional bar use where cameras with flashes aren't allowed.

 

For Olympus repair there is CamTech in Huntington, N.Y and Luton Camera Service in the U.K. should the fun ever stop. My former camera repair technician retired three years ago.

 

I doubt that other than the Ricoh GR1-V, Contax T-3 and maybe the Rollei 35AFM will anyone try to build a single focal length fixed lens camera using better optics. Yep these are autofocus, electronically controlled compact cameras, but the infrastructure is long gone to build a mechanically operated fixed-lens compact shooter.

Gary, I've owned an Olympic Stlylus, with a fixed focal length lens and it just wasn't my cup of tea.

 

With regards to any of the older range finder cameras, there some with better build qualities and some that are not so good. I personally don't mind servicing a camera, which usually is a proper CLA and quite frankly, they have served me well.

 

Can you name which of the 70's range finder cameras left you high and dry, with a such an enduring negativeness towards an entire class of cameras?

 

I'll admit they're not for the ticket for a push button photo enthusiast. By that I mean, one pushes the button and the autopilot takes the shot.

I'd have to disagree with Gary's blanket statement. There are times when I'm having fun and not going to bring my Nixon/Ford era Oly OM 35mm SLR gear with me. Nor am I going to bring my Eisenhower era medium format gear.

 

The best of the Japanese fixed-lens range finder cameras will yield images that will be comparable to, if not exceed the capabilities of many entry level plastic SLR's that are being made today. Stay with the better 35mm range-finders from this era.

 

A CLA will remedy 90% of the shutter problems one will encounter with a vintage range-finder. MECHANICAL CAMERAS do need to be CLA'd occasionally. The problem you may find is that your camera repairman may turn up his nose at the job even though cleaning the shutter assembly is a pretty straight forward procedure on a leaf-shutter.

 

The light seals you can replace yourself and the bally hoo about not being able to find a proper battery is utter nonsense. Zinc-Air hearing aid cells are sold in every drug store.

 

I will gladly admit, just as there were better than average 70's range-finders, there are better quality, pocketable, AF point and shoot cameras being made today. For example, the Ricoh GR-1 series, the Contax T series and even the Rollei 35 AFM don't get taken seriously enough simply because they are fixed lens AF point and shoot cameras.

 

They just aren't my cup of tea. I prefer to set the ISO speed of the film myself and spare me those tiny function buttons. I shoot alot of B&W film, so I like having traditional filter threads. Also, I really do appreciate traditional aperture rings and shutter controls versus push button control. But most of all, its nice to have a easy to carry camera with a decent lens that will function just fine with or without a battery.

Ed, it is fairly easy to make an adapter for the 1.4 volt zinc-air hearing aid cells. A rubber O-ring will do the trick on most vintage range-finders. On some it's better to hollow out a PX625 alkaline and insert the zinc-air cell into it. Each zinc-air cell is about a buck apiece or even cheaper at the BigBoxMart.

The classic Olympus rangefinders will not fit in your pocket. Both the Stylus and the original XA will with no problem. Personally, I prefer a belt pouch, in which case either the Olympus 35RC or the 35RD are easy to carry.

 

There are two things I don't care for on the XA and the Stylus. First they don't accept filters or lens hoods. Second, without their battery they are dead in the water. The second is easily remedied by carrying some spares.

 

On the subject of batteries, most of the classic range finder cameras used the now extinct mercury cell. A size 675 hearing aid, zinc-air cell will with a little ingenuity work as a replacement, but with a much shorter life-span than the original mercury cell.

 

Although, it is my favorite go anywhere camera, the 35RC has only six shutter speeds and accepts difficult to source 43.5mm filters. Still, I often include it in my travel package, as I have a full set of filters and an original lens hood. It is my preferred travel camera for black and white photography on the go.

 

I keep a 35RD at work, where I use it for indoor work. The f/1.7 lens and a range of shutter speeds down to a 1/2 second make it perfect for indoor use. It has a 49mm thread mount, which is much more common than the 43.5mm size for the 35RC.

 

One caveat emptor, almost every 35RD I've come across needs a shutter service, but it is worth doing.

 

Let me mention the Olympus 35SP, which is by far the best of the 70's vintage fixed-lens 35mm range finder cameras. It is however about the size of a modern SLR with a single focal length 40mm or 45mm pancake lens. It does offer some advantages over the typical Japanese fixed lens range finder. As far as I know the 35SP is the only 70's range finder camera with a metered manual mode and a selectable spot meter. It has, if not the best, then one of the best lenses ever fitted to a fixed-lens rangefinders.

 

Honorable mention goes to a pair of totally a manual shooters, the Rollei 35S and 35SE, which are fitted with the Zeiss designed Sonnar lenses. They are about as convenient to use as the original 1950 Zeiss-Ikon Ikonta 35mm folder, but the Rolleis are pocketable, accept filters and useable with or without a battery installed.

I use an old Vivitar L bracket that has clip-on lower arms for both 35mm and medium format. It's pretty substancial and allows for the rotation of the flash from side to side.