Andrew in Austin

Tonight's toast goes to Big Yellow. Too bad that they've become a marketing bureaucracy. The could of softened the landing a bit if they had more of their marketing people actually taking photos, mixing with photographers and keeping a crew of lurkers on BBS's forums like this one. By the way, the other big American film manufacturer GAF is still in business even though they closed their film business 25 years ago.

The Rollei LED was and is a low end Rollei 35 with limited shutter speeds and a three element lens. I'll place a second vote for the Olympus Stylus and a vote for the older Olympus XA.

 

An older folder, like an Agfa Super Solinette is pocketable, but for today's photographer, accustomed to automatic features, an old folder is an ergonomic nightmare. The Super Solinette lacks a light meter, but the unit focusing 50mm, f/3.5, Solinar is a stellar performer. Unlike the Rollei 35 SE, which I'm using more and more often when on the road, the Super Solinette has a built-in rangefinder.

 

Keep in mind that vintage cameras in general benefit from a good servicing before being used.

I'll second the recommendation for Hoya HMC filters. Plus, the Minolta Bayonet 1 filters may turn into a good investment if you continue using TLR cameras with the same format.

Even though the Rollei predates the XA by more than a decade. It's design is very much a carry over of the Ikonta 35, circa 1950. The light meter is the only modern concession and it too operates in a fashion reminicent of a late 1950's Zeiss-Ikon Contessa. The Gossen meter fitted to the Rollei 35 gives out at about EV7, too.

 

In my opinion, the Olympus XA will hold its own against a Rollei 35 fitted with a Tessar. It's the Rollei 35 S and SE, fitted with a Sonnar, that will blow away the XA.

 

As for control, you do have a shutter speed indicator and an adjustment for the film speed on the XA. Just walk up close to you subject, note the shutter speed and aperture setting. Then compose from wherever and adjust the film speed until you match the previous shutter speed.

 

The reason I switched over to the Rollei 35 SE is 1.) I wanted to use filters for B&W and 2.) I was already having to guess distances because of the XA's dim range finder patch.

 

Even to this day, I consider the Olympus XA loaded with a roll of XP-2 Super to be the perfect bar camera and the best part is folks don't ever give it a second look.

I bought an XA in 1983. It soldiered on for 17 years, before I switched to a Rollei 35 SE. I agree Lex, the range finder is pretty dim and small. I generally used zone focus and set the aperture accordingly. While not the perfect pocket camera, it is definitely one that will earn its keep.<div></div>

The above post should read, "I'll bet that someone, somewhere..."

<p>In answer to your question, I'll be someone, somewhere has a stash of old Modern Photography issues.</p>

 

<p>You can always improvise and do your own. Just use the same film, lighting and set up. I occasionally take a couple of exposure of a test target after servicing a camera. My assistant always seems to get in the way, as does the wierd scans and printing on the quarter of million dollar Frontier printer.</p><div></div>

It should go back together just fine. After the Rosinol evaporates, blow off the center element, before cleaning it with a slightly damp, soft microfibre cloth or lens tissue.

The Vaskar is a three element triplet.

 

The Rear Convex element--> Shutter Assy.<--Center Concave Element~~Front Convex element mounted into the center element.

 

See if the front plate rotates counter clockwise.

The front plate with the depth of field guide for each aperture should just lift out.

If that is the rear element that I see in the photo, then it should be removeable from the back and I do recomend its removal before cleaning the shutter. The rear element if it is a Skopar lens, is really a group of two elements cemented together. You don't want to do anything that will cause any separation of the two.

 

Do you have a lens spanner to remove this puppy? It will have to be cleaned by hand, using a microfibre cloth or lens tissue.

 

The Skopar is four element triplet and should have three parts.

 

The Rear Group-->Shutter Assy.<--Center Element~~Front element.

 

You say that you removed the front element. Are you sure that you didn't remove a pair of elements?

<p>....and D76 at 1:1, plus many more developers.</p>

 

<p>Check the <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/">Monster Dev Chart</a> for more options.

<p>I had an Electro 35 GT when I was in the service. It was almost a new camera back in 1972. The camera served me well. You definitely need to adjust the film speed when the lighting gets tricky or have colored filters installed.</p>

 

<p>In addition to the Yashica Guy, mentioned above, do visit Karen Nakamura's <a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/">photethnographic web site</a>. Click on her equipment link. The entire site is superbly put together by a photographer with a noble purpose.</p>

<p>Yuri, to clean the shutter assembly, it will be neccesary to remove the cover plate for the shutter speed adjusting ring. A star nut needs to be removed. It is locked in by a half-moon screw. The screw needs to be turned so that its flat side faces towards the center. The cover plate will pull straight out.</p>

 

<p>See Roland and Caroline Given's <a href="http://www.rolandandcaroline.co.uk/repair/prontors1.html">shutter web page</a> for more details.</p>

 

<p>I usually just dip and drain the opened shutter assembly in Rosinol, which is lighter fluid. I then allow the assembly to air dry before cleaning the shutter blades and the aperture diaphram with a gentle swabbing with ethanol on a lens cleaning tissue. After the assembly is dry you should notice the shutter speeds operating at normal speeds.</p>

Colimating the lens is the easiest part of the CLA. You'll need a CD jewel case to cut up so it fits on the film rails. 6cm by 10cm works well on an Isolette. Scratch each side that you intend to cut with a sharp blade and it should break along the lines.

 

For a target two light scratches meeting at the center of the acrylic plate to form an X is sufficient.

 

The best do-it-yourself method that I know of is backsighting the focus with the a aid of 35mm SLR which will need at least a 135mm lens mounted to it and the focus set at infinity. For a better diagram of the technique than I can put into words do a google search for "bringing infinity indoors rick oleson."

Lex, in lieu of Rosinal, I'll use ethanol in a old 35mm film cannister. Usually, the two front elements come out the shutter as a solidified group, which they are not. I place in the bottom of a film cannister and walk away from them for days, not hours.

 

With regards to shutters and aperture blades, drier is better. You can clean the whole assembly in Rosinol, but digitally photograph what you have first, because once you remove the shutter speed ring there is always a chance of a lever or spring popping out on you.

 

Rosinol leaves no oily residue. Even so, I do a final rinse of the shutter assembly with ethanol. The only oiling that needs to be done is one or two micro drops of watch oil for the self-timer gear axle and the sliding lever that activates it. I might put a micro-drop of oil on the shutter cocking lever, if there is a complex linkage. - That's it.-

 

My personal opinion, so take it with a grain of salt, is that oiling the clockwork on the shutter is a recipe for more trouble sooner than later. Oil will slow down the timing of the clockworks and attract dust.

I would go further to say that removing the battery between periods of use is best. - For a more elegant solution to the missing or disintegrated case, use a Lower Pro Z-30 belt pouch, which is large enough slide the 35SP into and comfortable enough to wear at the hip. -

It's definitely better with regards to film flatness to advance the film just before taking an exposure.

 

If it's an Agfa shouldn't the len hood be cut from a Rodinal bottle?

 

In a change of subject, the Perkeo II, with its automatic frame counter, is the compact 6x6 folder to get ones hands on. I say this even though I love having the use of a built-in uncoupled range finder like the one fitted to the Isolette III for a focusing aid.

Walter, I noticed that you mentioned C-22 in your post. I thought C-22 went the way of Kodacolor X.

 

As mentioned, XP-2 is ideal for high contrast subjects and you don't have to do any of the N-2 or two part development that can be done with conventional B&W films.

 

XP-2 is also easier to digitally scan than conventional B&W films.

 

If you already have a conventional darkroom set-up, chromogenic B&W will never save you money. Plus, Ilford seems pretty tepid about marketing the films. For example, I can only get XP-2 in 24 exposure rolls and not in 120 at my local store, which to me is odd, because Big Yellow markets T400CN in 120.

 

XP-2 definitely has a different look to it than Tri-X souped in Rodinal. It's not better, nor worse, just different.

<p>It's not uncommon for Agfa folders to have frozen front elements and pin hole leaks in the bellows. Both are user serviceable, with a set of jeweler's screw drivers, some Rosinol, a 35mm camera with a long focal length lens and some black fabric paint for the inside corners. Also, both the Prontor and Compur shutters need to be cleaned or they'll be slow. </p>

 

<p>Thankfully, some people are too good to us. They even set up web sites. <a href="http://www.DavidRichert.com/camera_rebuilds.htm">David Richert's</a> is one such site. <a href="http://www.rolandandcaroline.co.uk/">Another site</a>, which is by courtesy of Roland and Caroline Given, has a couple of detailed pages for cleaning the shutter.</p>

 

<p>Shooting with the Isolette II takes some skill. At a distance of 10 foot, a person standing will completely fill the viewfinder. At 12 ft, there should be about a foot clearance above and below the person. Close ups, at 6 feet, requires a flash to gain some depth of field to make up for focusing errors. The Prontor S and Synchro Compur range down a full second for shooting with a tripod.</p>

 

<p>If you want to try an Isolette II/Ansco Speedex Special, that's serviced and ready to shoot. I have one that I won't be using that I could be talked into letting go for less than the cost of 2 cases of Bass ale. It's guaranteed to skip frames, if you overwind and double expose, if you use a cable release instead of the shutter release button. Gee, I thought I was the only one who did such idiotic things.</p>

It depends on the lab. I do know that a Frontier 390 is capable of printing an 8 by 8 and larger. The results depend on the film and whether the sharpen vs unsharpening tool is used during the scan.

 

By the way, the Frontier only prints the negs. Developing is done on a separate machine.

I always plug my personal site with every post. Doesn't everyone?

Nice shot of the pier. How does the printed version look?

I hope this isn't the same Bob Saloman that I sold the wrong filter to on eBay. If so, my apologies again. I do believe B+W is short for Biermann and Weber.

</p>Steve Gandy's site at <a href="http://www.cameraquest.com">cameraquest.com</a> should receive an honorable mention.</p>

 

<p>The same can be said for Robert Monaghan's <a href="http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/cameras.html">medium format megasite</a>.</p>